BIO - TERMS - COSMETIC INGREDIENTS TB

Question 1

Acrylic resin

Answer 1

Resins composed of polymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids.

Question 2

Active ingredient

Answer 2

Active ingredients are substances that are the main pharmacologic components in medicines that function to treat a specific condition. Active ingredients added to shampoos for patients with dandruff and psoriasis include tar, selenium, zinc, ketoconazole, and steroids.

Question 3

Amphoteric surfactant

Answer 3

Detergents that behave as cationic agents at lower pH and anionic agents at higher pH are very mild and are often used with anionic surfactants to form a complex, reducing the tendency for the anionic to adsorb onto hair; betaines, sultaines, and imidazolinium derivatives.

Question 4

Anionic surfactant

Answer 4

Detergents with a negatively charged polar group are outstanding cleansing agents that produce rich lather; ammonium and sodium lauryl sulfates and ammonium and sodium laureth sulfates.

Question 5

Bimodal acrylic

Answer 5

Newer resin copolymer composed of two different acrylic molecules, one with anionic and the other one with cationic functionalities. These have good affinity for the hair surface and are easily washed out.

Question 6

Block copolymer

Answer 6

Linear heteropolymers composed of homopolymer “blocks” of different monomers.

Question 7

Bodying agents and thickeners

Answer 7

Improve thickness and creaminess of the formulation. This is usually achieved by using salt, fatty alcohols, waxes, or gums. Gums have the advantage of acting as foam stabilizers and suspending agents able to keep insoluble particles like pigments or zinc pyrithione in suspension.

Question 8

Bridging agent

Answer 8

Added to enhance adsorption of hydrophobic ingredients like silicones to damaged (hydrophilic) hair.

Question 9

Cationic conditioning polymer

Answer 9

Modified “quats” with many positively charged quaternized fatty acid groups per molecule and improved rinsability.

Question 10

Cationic surfactant

Answer 10

Detergents with a positively charged polar group increase the ease of combing and reduces static electricity but are relatively poor detergents and do not lather well; amino esters, long chain amino acids, and quaternary ammonium compounds.

Question 11

Conditioning polymer

Answer 11

Polymers designed to deposit, adhere, or adsorb to the surface of the hair to improve combability. Most often these are polyquaterniums, cationic conditioning polymers, protein hydrosylates, emollients, silicones, and film forming resins. These are found in conditioning shampoos, conditioners, and some hair fixatives.

Question 12

Cosurfactant

Answer 12

Secondary detergent in a shampoo or conditioner. Often added to the primary detergent to improve conditioning, enhance foam production, and improve viscosity.

Question 13

Emollient

Answer 13

Natural or synthetic oils, esters, waxes, and silicones that spread onto hair leaving transparent, water-repelling films; includes argan, coconut, jojoba, olive, or grapeseed oils, and silicones.

Question 14

Emulsifier

Answer 14

An ingredient that when added to a combination of two unblendable substances allows them to become stable in their blended state.

Question 15

Foaming agent

Answer 15

Introduces gas bubbles into water and cause shampoo to form suds, which spread the detergent over the scalp and hair. This does not enhance the cleansing of the hair. This may be achieved by the primary surfactant but also by the addition of gums (guar or xanthan) or modified fatty acids.

Question 16

Fragrance

Answer 16

Impart a pleasing odor and mask the odor of other ingredients. These may be essential oils or artificial fragrances.

Question 17

Long chain fatty alcohol

Answer 17

High-molecular-weight, straight-chain primary alcohols originally derived from naturally occurring wax esters, as in sperm whale oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed, and mustard seed. These are now prepared from petroleum products. As nonionic surfactants, they are creamy and are often used as conditioners, emulsifiers, emollients, and thickeners; cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol.

Question 18

Natural polymer

Answer 18

Proteins like collagen, keratin, silk, as well as polysaccharides like chitin, cellulose, pectin, xanthum gum, hyaluronic acids, and guar gum.

Question 19

Nonionic surfactant

Answer 19

Detergents with no polar group are the second most popular group of detergents behind the anionic surfactants. They are very mild and are often combined with anionics or amphoterics for very mild shampoos; polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters, and alkanolamides.

Question 20

PH adjuster

Answer 20

Most shampoo systems are alkaline, leading to swelling of the cuticle and increased friction. The addition of a mild acid (citric or glycolic) is designed to alter pH usually to 3.5–4.5.

Question 21

Polyquaterniums or “quats”

Answer 21

Hydrophobic and positively charged quaternized copolymers with various oily “tails” (coconut oil, castor oil, canola oil, or others). As the most important active ingredients in hair conditioners, these are substantive and resistant to rinsing, but may leave the hair lank and greasy; polyquaterniums 1–47. Also found in hair fixative gels to maintain style in high humidity.

Question 22

Preservative

Answer 22

Protect against bacterial contamination and are vital in any product made with water. These are usually organic compounds with acidic properties; parabens and urea derivatives.

Question 23

Primary surfactant

Answer 23

Principal detergent (usually in a shampoo).

Question 24

Quaternary ammonium

Answer 24

Positively charged molecule with a central ammonium (N+) with four hydrophobic chemical groups attached.

Question 25

Resin

Answer 25

Sticky natural or synthetic film-forming polymers used in hair fixatives to enhance cohesion.

Question 26

Sequestering agent

Answer 26

Prevents film on the hair and chelates magnesium and calcium ions so that other salts or insoluble soaps are not formed; polyphosphates and ethylenediamineetetraacetic acid.

Question 27

Short chain alcohol

Answer 27

Low molecular weight alcohols used mostly as solvents. These are flammable, volatile, and quickly evaporate; ethanol, SD alcohol, SD alcohol 40, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, and alcohol denat.

Question 28

Silicone

Answer 28

Versatile polymers derived from sand and silicon-containing minerals used as conditioners, pearlizers, thickeners, foamers, to reduce irritation from surfactants, and non-ionic emulsifiers to help to incorporate sunscreens, fragrances, proteins, pigments, and natural waxes into hair products. Due to hydrophobic nature, these work best with healthy or only mildly damaged hair.

Question 29

Sorption

Answer 29

The process by which one substance becomes attached to the hair via adsorption, ion exchange, and/or absorption; depends on the charge of the substance, its molecular size, the pH of the hair, the amount of sebum and soil on the surface of the hair, the pH of the medium, ingredients already adsorbed to the hair fiber, duration of contact, temperature, and other components in the formulation.

Question 30

Substantivity

Answer 30

Persistence of a topically applied substance; determined by the degree of physical and chemical bonding to the surface of the hair and resistance to removal.

Question 31

Sunscreen

Answer 31

UV absorbers are added for products with clear packaging.

Question 32

Surfactant

Answer 32

A blended word from the base words “surface acting agent”; usually organic detergents that contain lipophilic (oil attracting) and hydrophilic (water attracting) agents allowing the compound to combine with free lipids and soil and wash them away.

Question 33

Synthetic polymer

Answer 33

Commonly used petroleum based viscosity modifiers, humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, and preservatives; polyethylene glycols and acrylic acids.

Question 34

Visual effect

Answer 34

Improved by coloring agents like D&C or FD&C.