Skin Analysis Flashcards
Skin consultation def
What the guest tells you about their habits, challenges, desires, etc
Skin analysis def
What the esthe feels, sees, and touches
How to determine clients ski type
Look: what do you notice about the guests skin
Touch: make contact with skin. What do you feel on and under the skin
Listen: what does the client say about their skin
Another name for dry skin
Alipoid
Skin type vs skin conditions
Skin type is based on the oil production in skin
Skin conditions are diseases affecting the skin and the texture and appearance of skin
Common skin conditions (5)
Pigmentation (hyper, hypo, post-inflammatory)
Sensitized
Congested/breakouts
Premature aging
Dehydration
Dehydrated characteristics/def
Lack of moisture, noticeable fine lines and wrinkles, tight skin surface, oil and comedones may be present, and flaky skin may be present
Pigmentation def and how it gets there
White or brown spots resulting from trauma to the skin
Sun, damage, + post-inflammatory
Congested/acneic skin characteristics
Open and closed comedones
Under surface congestion
Pustular breakouts
Sensitive skin will often have
Telangiectasia or broken capillaries (redness)
What does Look, touch, ask mean
Look - visual assessment of the clients skin
Touch - tactile assessment
Ask - verify information on client intake form and ask questions
Magnifying lamp (loupe) description, key uses, + daily care and maintenance
Provides light and magnification
Cover clients eyes (eye pads); turn on lamp; position over clients face
Close examination of skins surface
Performing extractions, brow shaping, + lash and brow tinting
Applying lash enhancements
Clean with soft cloth and remove fingerprints
Avoid using alcohol to clean
Woods lamp description and uses
Black light colorizes different areas of skin to indicate different conditions
Validating skin type
Identifying dermal vs epidermal pigmentation
Identifying possible infections
Used in medical field to diagnose skin conditions
Woods lamp colors with descriptions (6)
Blue-white - normal healthy skin
White - thick corneum layer; spots of dead cell buildup
Purple - dehydrated skin
Yellow/pink/green - signs of bacteria, fungus
Brown - pigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage; dermal pigmentation shows up lighter in color than epidermal pigmentation
Orange - active oil production; shows as small dots in active sebaceous glands (pores)
Skin scope (Derma scope/skin scanner) description
A magnifying mirror/light that incorporates a black light; Used for consultations within retail settings prior to a service and before using a magnifying lamp
Skin typing classifies skin based on
Oil production (sebum)
Genetic predisposition def
Determines our skin type, number of pores, and oil production
3 options for skin type and conditions
Balance
Increase
Decrease
Normal skin type description, look, ask, and touch
Balanced oil production
Healthy glow and color
Small pores
May be medium in t-zone
No blackheads or blemishes
Smooth texture
Oil production = throughout face, does not appear oily
Woods lamp = yellow/orange dots in central face
“How many hours after cleansing do you feel oil?” - “always balanced”
Thick skin with good elasticity
Usually young clients
Dry skin type description, look, ask, and touch
Limited oil production
May feel uncomfortable and tight with increased sensitivity
Small pores
Flaky areas
Woods lamp = small orange dots on nose and chin
“How many hours after cleansing do feel oil?” - “between 10-12 hours or not at all”
Possible thin skin throughout face
Rough, uneven texture
Combination description, look, ask, and touch
Uneven oil production
Mix of medium/large pores in t-zone
Areas of roughness on cheeks, outer face
Shiny t-zone
Woods lamp = small orange dots in t-zone
“How many hours after cleansing do you feel oil?” - “4 hours or earlier”
Thick skin on cheeks
Thin skin around eyes and forehead
Oily skin type description, look, ask, and touch
Widespread oil production (throughout face into hairline)
Large pores
Orange peel texture
Overall shiny look
Comedones (blackheads)
Possible acne
Woods lamp = small orange dots throughout face and hairline
“How many hours after cleansing do you feel oil?” - “2 hours or earlier”
Thick skin
Fitzpatrick skin typing is widely accepted for classifying skin types according to what
Tolerance of and reaction to ultraviolet radiation
Fitzpatrick type 1 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone = very fair, ivory; generally red or blonde hair
Always burns, peels, and never tans
Northern European
Most exfoliation services are fine depending on sensitivity level
Extended redness can happen
High risk for skin cancer
Fitzpatrick type 2 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone ranges from fair to light-beige
Burns easily, peels, tans minimally
European/Scandinavian
Most exfoliation services are fine depending on sensitivity level
Extended redness can happen
High risk for skin cancer
Fitzpatrick type 3 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone ranges from light-beige to light brown
Burns moderately + average tanning ability
Southern or Central European
Most exfoliation services are fine depending on sensitivity level
Extended redness can happen
High risk for skin cancer
Can have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Fitzpatrick type 4 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone is a moderate brown shade
Burns minimally, tans easily
Mediterranean, Asian, or Latina
Use caution with exfoliation services and extraction; be gentle and provide in-depth after care instructions
Prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Keloid scarring possible, reactive skin may scar easily
Lower risk of skin cancer but UV irritation possible
Fitzpatrick type 5 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone is a dark brown shade
Rarely burns, tans easily and substantially
East Indian, Native American, latino, or African
Use caution with exfoliation services and extraction; be gentle and provide in-depth after care instructions
Prone to PIH
Keloid scarring possible; reactive skin may scar easily
Lower risk of skin cancer but UV irritation possible
Fitzpatrick type 6 description, reaction to UV, general genetic predisposition, and service cautions
Skin tone is a dark brown to black shade
Almost never burns, tans readily and substantially
African or aboriginal ancestry
Use caution with exfoliation services and extraction; be gentle and provide in-depth after care instructions
Prone to PIH
Keloid scarring possible; reactive skin may scar easily
Lower risk of skin cancer but UV irritation is possible
Key factors of skin conditions are
Color and texture
Skin sensitivity description, possible disease/disorder, skin structure impacted, causes, and cautions
Sensitive and irritated skin, allergic reactions
Eczema
Psoriasis
Rosacea
Environmental sensitivity
Vascular (capillaries)
Stratum corneum
Skin barrier (acid mantle)
Imparted stratum corneum barrier
Medication
Environmental exposure
Poor skincare routine
Disease/disorders
Internal inflammation
Allergies
Cosmetic ingredient sensitivity
Dilated capillaries on the nose
Cheeks and chin
Inflammation
May indicate a disease like rosacea
Texture description, skin structures impacted, and causes
Dehydrated and congested skin; UV photo damage
Stratum corneum
Skin barrier (acid mantle)
Glands
Impaired stratum corneum barrier/acid mantle
High transepidermal water loss
Medication
Glycation
Hyperkeratinization in hair follicle
Excess sebum production
Bacteria overgrowth
Hormone factors
Impaired circulation
Aging skin description (stages), skin structures impacted, and causes
Stage 1 - wrinkles with movement, some UV damage, some sagging along jawline
Stage 2 - wrinkles at rest, UV damage, sagging along jawline/neck/eyes, dark circles, redness
Stage 3 - deep wrinkles, sagging jawline and neck, widespread discoloration
Dermis
Muscle
Vascular
Skin barrier
Melanocytes
Dermal/epidermal junction
Sun damage, smoking, and time (gradual loss of elasticity and collagen)
Pigmentation description, skin structures impacted, and causes of hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation
Hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and melasma
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Photodamaged skin
Stratum basal
Melanocytes
Hyper = result of overactive melanocytes due to stress, UV exposure, hormones, injury, or heat sensitivity
Hypo = result of melanocyte dying and not producing any pigment; can come from autoimmune disease, UV exposure, or injury
Acne skin description (grades 1-4), skin structures impacted, causes, and cautions
Grade 1 - simple non-inflammatory acne, comedones and a few papules
Grade 2 - comedones, papules, and a few pustules
Grade 3 - larger inflammatory papules, pustules, and a few cysts; a more severe form involving the face, neck, chest, and back
Grade 4 - more severe with cysts becoming widespread on face, neck, chest, and back
Stratum corneum
Skin barrier (acid mantle)
Glands
Impaired stratum corneum barrier/acid mantle
Hyperkeratinization in hair follicle
Excess sebum production Bacteria overgrowth
Hormonal factors such as excess androgen
Do not perform services on grades 3 + 4 w/o doctors permission
Comedones =
Black heads
Papules =
Pimple (not protruding)
Pustules =
White head pimple
Topical acne treatments (6)
Benzoyl peroxide
Topical antibiotics
Retin-A
Azelaic acid
Salicylic acid
Glycolic acid
Benzoyl peroxide description
Used to dry and exfoliate; releases oxygen, helps kill bacteria
Topical antibiotics description
Prescribed by physician to dry skin and kill bacteria
Retin-A description
Contains tretinoin; powerful derivative of vitamin a; dries skin and promoted rapid exfoliation
Azelaic acid description
Acid that promotes drying and cell turnover
Salicylic acid description
Beta hydroxy acid; mildly dries and promotes cell turnover by producing a mild keratolytic action (thinning of the skin around lesions)
Glycolic acid description
Alpha hydroxy acid; breaks bonds connecting skin cells together; allows cell turnover and exfoliation; glycolic and alpha hydroxy peels to remove stratum corneum and unplug clogged pores
