Makeup Design Skills Flashcards
Makeup steps
Pre-cleanse
Analyze
Match color
Prepare skin
Apply makeup (base, eyes, cheeks, lips)
Set makeup
Analyzing skin and face shapes helps you
Determine skin type and condition; face shapes and features
Choose products and determine color placement
How to analyze face shape
Decide into 3 areas: hairline and forehead, cheeks, and jawline + chin
Analyzing the forehead determines
If it is the widest or most narrow area of face
If the hairline is high or low
How to analyze the eyebrows
Brush upward and check length + natural arch position
How to analyze the eyes
Determine if there is the width of one eye between them + if the crease is visible
Asses eye size
Determine if eyes are recessed or protruding
Examine direction of outer corners
How to analyze the nose
Determine if area is wide or if there’s a well-defined bridge
How to analyze the cheekbones
Determine if area is round or defined/angular
How to analyze the lips
Determine lip size and whether top or bottom is fuller
Examine direction of lip corner
How to analyze the chin
Consider appearance of double chin
How to analyze the neck
Determine neckline of clothing and length of neck
When selecting a concealer…
Can be chosen to be corrective (neutralize) or fresh-toned (lighten specific area)
To neutralize undesired color, use concealer in a complementary color (red = green)
When selecting a foundation, consider what
Skin type/condition
Level of coverage
Type of finish required
Time of day and year
(See which undertones client has by examining skin and hair color)
When matching concealer and foundation…
Test concealer/foundation in natural daylight; foundation shade should disappear into skin
How to prepare skin
Re-cleanse test area; makeup remover on color swatch spots
Tone
Moisturize/SPF
Apply primer (not too much to avoid shifting under foundation)
Base makeup encompasses
Foundation
Concealer
Highlight
Contour
Powder
Areas for concealer
Under-eye circles
Dilated capillaries
Blemishes \dark-shadowed areas of face
(Neutral concealer may be applied over corrective concealer for additional coverage
4 sections where foundation is applied before blending
Forehead
Nose + cheeks
Around mouth/chin/jawline
Neck (blended into)
Highlight (not shimmer) and contouring light source
Above and in from of clients face
Chose highlighter shade ______ shades _______ than foundation
1-2 shades lighter
Choose contour shade _____ shades ______ than foundation
1-2 shades darker
Face powder general guidelines
Avoid powdering over eyebrow hairs and too close to lower lash line
Always apply before mascara
“Baking” def
Technique that uses excess face powder to sit under eyes and at high points of face; powder is absorbed then blended away to reveal a brighter matte finish
Eyebrow color guidelines
Keep natural brow shape in mind
Use sharp pencils to create hairlike strokes
Use a brow brush to soften edges
Complete with a clear brow gel
Smokey eyes def
Gradually diminish from deepest color at lash line to lightest at brow
Bracing def
Technique used during makeup application to keep hands steady and client safe
Daytime colors
Neutral colors that match skin undertones
Evening colors
Deep, intense colors
Eyeshadow application guidelines
Apply primer
Build intensity with a chisel brush
Blend with blending brush
Contour with crease brush
Eyeliner guidelines
Avoid cross-contamination
Apply close to lash line
Apply liquids and powders with a brush
Apply pencil with short strokes
Avoid tear duct
Mascara must be applied with
Disposable mascara wand
Mascara guidelines
Use eyelash separator or comb after mascara to avoid clumps
Avoid using curler too close to lash line and over squeezing
Glasses considerations
Avoid long artificial lashes
Near-sighted glasses - enhance eyes with highlighting products and eyeliner (eyes look smaller)
Far-sighted glasses - apply muted colors (eyes look larger)
Contacts considerations
Use and recommend non-allergenic makeup
Use more cream than powdered products
How to apply cream/liquid/gel blush
Apply 3 small dots to apples of cheeks using a buffing brush, face contour brush, or ring finger
How to apply powder blush
Use a blush brush or fan brush that is same size or smaller than cheek area
Bronzer description
Adds warms to cheeks
Achieve a “sun-kissed glow” by applying to high points of face powder
Darker lip liners are chosen to do what
For evening to balance with more intense eye makeup
Lip color application
Apply with a disposable lip brush
What can be used to block out natural lip line or lip color
Foundation or lip primer
Why would you put foundation or lip primer on your lips
Block out natural lip line or lip color
Prevent color bleeding
Make lip color last longer
Clear lip gloss does what
Adds shine
Lighter shade lip gloss does what
Highlighter over color
Darker shade lip gloss does what
Sheen with depth
Applying lip gloss to center does what
Illusion of fullness
Day makeup is meant to
Enhance natural beauty
Day makeup eyes guidelines
Apply “powder catch” under eyes when applying eye shadow to avoid transference of color to concealer and foundation
Day makeup cheeks guidelines
Color selection should be soft and natural
Day makeup lips guidelines
Finish should be matte with a little sheen
Bridal makeup guidelines
Updos can alter appearance of face shapes
Oily skin = avoid face, cheek, and eye products with orange or strong yellow undertones
Photographic lighting tends to be cool; stay with palettes that are neutral to warmer
Powder skin in exposed areas so light reflections are similar in the face and upper chest
Use waterproof liner and mascara
Schedule mu run through no later than 6 weeks before wedding
Evening makeup guidelines
Intense colors are used to create dramatic effects seen in softer, more indirect lighting
Darker of heavier colors can make features look smaller
Some mua’s do eyes before base so no dark shadow falls onto concealer
Corrective makeup incorporates technique for
Color correction
Diminishing negative shadows and prominent areas
Neutralizing unwanted undertones
Correcting facial shapes and features
Camouflaging disfigurements and skin markings/scarring
Neutralizing discoloration
Choose primer or concealer in a complementary skin color
Camouflage makeup products are
Opaque, waterproof, and formulated to adhere to smooth scar tissue
3 types of recommended camouflage makeup products
Cream that is oily, light, and less opaque
Prep that is waxy and more opaque
Product that is powdery and talc-based
Oval face contour and highlight correction
Does not require much corrective application
Contour around the hairline and under the cheekbones
Highlight the center forehead, above cheekbones and center chin
(In most instances, the oval shape represents the ideal)
Round face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Contour along sides to reduce face width
Highlight center to add vertical emphasis
Square face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Contour to soften angularity
Contour area directly below cheekbones to reduce width; blend toward center of jawline
Highlight center of forehead and center of chin to elongate face
Oblong (rectangle) face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Contour under chin and horizontally at hairline and temples to visually shorten face
Contour directly below cheekbones to add dimension to middle of face
Highlight horizontally to add visual width
Highlight and contour horizontal lines at eyebrow
Emphasize horizontal lines in eyebrow shape, cheek color, and lip shape to add width whenever possible
Pear (trapezoid) face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Highlight forehead for visual width
Contour bottom of face to reduce width
Shade directly on or below cheekbones to contour natural fullness on sides of face and balance smaller forehead with larger jaw area
Heart (triangle) face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Contour across forehead to minimize width
Avoid contouring lower part of this face shape; extended point of chin can be contoured if needed
Highlight jawline to visually add width
Diamond face shape contouring and highlighting correction
Contour cheekbones to minimize width
Contour high points of forehead and extended portion of chin if needed
Highlight jaw and forehead to visually add width
Correcting high or broad foreheads; visually shorten and visually reduce width
Shorten = contour along top of forehead
Reduce width = contour along outside edges to narrow forehead
Correction techniques for enhancing almond eyes
Smudgy eyeliner application over entire upper and lower lids defines natural shape
Neutral shadow on lids into natural crease adds structure
Correction techniques for small eyes (making look larger)
Use brighter colors and soft shaving on upper and lower lids; creates definition without closing eyes off
Contour above natural eyelid crease to leave eyelid free of shading: creates an open, spacious feeling
Correction techniques for wide-set eyes to visually pull them closer to center of face
Use darker colors and eyeliners near inner corners (inner half) of the upper eyelid
Blend softly toward bridge of nose
Correction techniques for close-set eyes to visually increase space between eyes
Use lighter eye shadow on inner part of upper eyelid
Use eyeliner on outer edges of top and bottom lids; extend lines outward; use darker eye shadow at outer part of upper eyelid; leave inner corners void of heavy color to create a lighter and brighter area with illusion of space
Extend outer edges of eyebrows to widen the appearance
Correction techniques for deep-set eyes to bring eyes forward
Use light and bright shadows
Generally, requires very little contouring since they are already more recessed
Rich, colored eyeliners add definition
Eyeliner can be applied to midsection and extended outward on top and bottom
Correction techniques for prominent/protruding eyes to create a flatter appearance
Use deeper and matte colors to contour protruding lid
Use deep eyeliner of same color on lower lids and tops of eyelids, connected at inner corners
Use shadow graded from dark at lids to light toward brow bone
Brow bone can be highlighted
Blend shadows in horizontal fashion
Correction techniques for downturned eyes to visually lift outer eyes
Use darker shadows and eyeliners that move in an upward motion away from outer edges of eyes
Extend eyeliner on upper eyelid upward at outer corner
Connect eyeliner on top and bottom to lift drooping outer edges
Draw attention to inner eye with highlighter
Correction techniques for mono-lid eyes to visually enhance crease area
Add a deep-colored eyeliner along base of lash line; increases thickness toward inner part of eye
Apply thicker eyeliner on lower lid at outer edges; gradually decrease thickness near inner part of lower lid
Apply a neutral contour color to inner corners of eye to just above iris to create dimension
Correction techniques for hooded eyes to visually minimize hooded area
Use a medium shading color in inner-eyes area to make flashy areas of upper lids recede
Blend shading color into inner portion of eyebrows
Balance and add contour to outer portion of eyes by using a deep contouring shadow to push back outer edges and upper portion of hooded eyebrow skin
Line only outer edges of upper and lower eyelids
Correction techniques to visually reduce width of a wide nose
Apply darker tone/shade alongside of nose
Apply thin line of highlighter down center of nose
Correction techniques to visually lengthen short noses
Highlight from bridge down length of nose to tip
Correction techniques to visually shorten long noses
Apply darker shade to top of nose
Correction techniques to visually straighten uneven/crooked noses
Contour protruding side with slightly darker shade
correction techniques to reduce a bump on nose
Apply darker shade over bump
Correction techniques to minimize indentation on nose
Apply highlighter to indentation
Correction techniques to reduce the appearance of nasolabial folds
Use concealer in this area that is one shade lighter than the natural skin color
Correction techniques to create more dimension in undefined cheekbones
Apply highlighter over very top of cheekbone
Contour hollow under cheekbone where cheekbones naturally indent
Correction techniques to minimize a full top lip
Line upper lip slightly inside natural shape
Highlight midsection of lower lip with color or gloss to create volume
Correction techniques to minimize a full bottom lip and/or make top lip appear fuller
Bottom lip = line lower lip within natural lip line, more muted lip color; choose darker more muted color
Top lip = leave upper lip unlined o lined slightly outside natural lip line; use a lip color that is a shade or two lighter
Correction techniques to minimize appearance of full lips
Outline just inside natural lip line
Choose darker more muted lip colors
Blend carefully within “new” lip line
Correction techniques to create balance in uneven/asymmetrical lips
Build up areas that are uneven or not clearly defined using liner
Correction techniques to make thin lips look fuller
Use brighter, lighter, and pearlized colors
Apply gloss for volume
Outline just outside natural lip lie with a soft curving line
Avoid darker colors which will make loops appear thinner
Extend curve of lower lip to balance shape of mouth
Build up curve of upper lip to balance shape of mouth
Correction techniques to make a small mouth look larger
Build up outside edges of upper and lower lips
Lightly line outside natural lip line
Extend corners of mouth upward
Apply gloss for volume
Correction techniques to minimize defined Cupid’s bow
Line upper lip by rounding off sharp peaks and widen curve of upper lip
Correction techniques to invert downturned lips
Create line that extends just above natural fall of lips on outer corners
Correction techniques to minimize width of a broad or square jaw
Contour along jaw and through sides of face with a darker color
Use deeper foundation than on the rest of the face to balance between upper and lower parts of face
Contour with a deeper shade from below the cheeks
Correction techniques to recede a prominent chin
Contour prominent area with a darker shade
Blend underneath and onto neck
Apply shader to top of chin
Correction techniques to accentuate a receding chin/jawline
Apply highlighter along jawline on and under chin
Correction techniques to minimize a pointed chin
Contour with slightly darker color
Apply shader to prominent area
Correction techniques to reduce appearance of a double chin
Contour heavier area with darker colors at midsection
Blend outward
Correction techniques to add width to a thin neck
Apply highlighter to sides of neck
Correction techniques to reduce width on a thick neck
Apply contour to sides of neck
Strip lashes application and removal
Ensure adhesive reaches both ends of eyelash strip
Allow glue to get tacky
Have client look down and apply to lash line
Place gel pad on top of lower lashes
Ensure client keeps eyes closed
Cluster lashes application and removal
Natural- use 4-5 clusters
Avoid overloading with adhesive
Have client look down slightly and apply ensuring symmetry between eyes
Gel pad under each eye on top of lower lashes
Ensure clients eyes are closed
Apply remover at base of lashes and move toward ends
Eyebrow and lash tinting takes ~ how long
~30-40 min
Eyebrow and lash tinting steps
Cleanse - remove makeup
Analyze - contraindications; assess direction of hair growth and brow color, density, and texture
Prepare skin - apply barrier along lash line or around brows and apply eye shields
Prepare tint - mix tint and developer
Apply tint - use disposable spoolie or angle brush
Process tint - lashes=10-12 min brows=5-10 min
Remove tint - use cotton swab/round and remove
