Chemical Exfoliation Flashcards
Chemical exfoliation def
Use of chemical solutions to dissolve or reduce dead skin cells and desmosomes
Chemical exfoliation promotes and induces
Promotes cell turnover
Induces desquamation (shedding, peeling, or coming off in scales) of the stratum corneum
Chemical exfoliation improves
Texture
Fine lines and wrinkles
Pigmentation
Hydration
Some forms of scarring
Chemical exfoliation - schedule treatments in a series of _____
4-8 sessions (every 14 days every 3-4 months)
Types of chemical exfoliation depends on 2 things
Depth of peeling product
Actions on skin and target of acid medium
Three depths of chemical exfoliation
Superficial/light
Medium
Deep
Superficial/light chemical exfoliation impacts skin up to _____ , uses what acids, side effects last, how far apart are treatments, good for which Fitzpatrick types
Impact skin up to 0.1 mm of epidermis
Typically uses acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and mandelic acid
Side effects last 7-10 days (mild peeling, redness, flaky skin)
No closer than 14 days between treatments
Good for all Fitzpatrick types
Medium chemical exfoliation impacts ______, peeling agents are _______ , not for _______ , client may look _____ for ____ , use caution for Fitzpatrick types ______
Impacts all epidermis into papillary layer
peeling agents are usually trichloracetic acid (TCA) of 35% or greater and pyruvic acid
Not generally in scope for esthes (medical professional supervision)
Client may look unappealing for about 10 days post peel
Use caution with Fitzpatrick types 4-6
Deep chemical exfoliation affects ____ , must be done in ____ , examples:
Affects epidermis into the reticular dermis
Must be done in a physicians office and needs sedation
Examples: phenol and carbolic acid
Three categories include:
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Blended or designer acids
Alpha-hydroxy acids are for which skin conditions
Aging
Texture
Pigmentation
Sensitivity
Beta-hydroxy acids are for what skin conditions
Acne
Pigmentation
Texture
Blended or designer acids are for what skin conditions
Sensitivity
Acne
Aging
Lower pH is ____ and can cause _____
More acidic
Can cause more irritation (pH below 2.5); increase efficacy
AHAs description; includes; considered ____
Group of acids that occur naturally in food
Include glycolic, lactic, phytic, and mandelic acids
Considered water-soluble and must be neutralized before removing
BHA is also known as; has what kind of properties; ideal for; derived from
Also known as salicylic acid
Has anti-inflammatory properties
Ideal for treating acne and oily skin
Salicylic acid is derived from sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
Benefits of chemical exfoliation (6)
Improved texture, barrier function, and moisture retention
Increased cell turnover rate, hydration, and intercellular lipids
Reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and surface pigmentation
Smoother and softer skin
Improved skin conditions (acne, hyperpigmentation, clogged pores, and dry skin)
Potentially stimulating elastin and collagen production
Contra-actions seen with chemical exfoliation
Chemical burns
Itching and irritation
Dry uncomfortable skin
Post-inflammatory pigmentation
Contraindications of chemical exfoliation
Autoimmune disorders
Known allergies
Active infection
Viral skin infections
Chemical exfoliation cautions
Pregnancy
Cancer
Diabetes
Epilepsy
Heart conditions/high blood pressure
Thyroid disease