Ch.6 Skin Care Products (Ingredient Formulation)

Question 1

Ingredients in cosmetic chemistry are divided into two groups which are?

Answer 1

Functional and performance ingredients

Question 2

Ingredients that do NOT affect the appearance of the skin but necessary for product formulation are?

Answer 2

Functional ingredients
( can act as vehicles allowing product to spread and give the product body, texture and specific form like lotion, creams, gels)

Question 3

Ingredients that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin are known as?

Answer 3

Performance ingredients
(Ingredients that moisturize, exfoliate, smooth the skin surface)

Question 4

The main types of ingredients in product formulation include a combination of both functional and
Performance ingredients. The most common are? (10)

Answer 4

Water
Emollients
surfactants
Delivery system
Preservatives
Fragrances
Color agents
Thickeners
Oh adjusters
Solvents

Question 5

Water is …

Answer 5

Both
functional (helps keep other ingredients in a solution & acts as a vehicle to help spread product)

Performance - replenishes moisture to surface of the skin

Question 6

Emollients are…

Answer 6

BOTH
functional (help place, spread & keep other substances on the skin )

Performance (lubricate the skins surface & guard the barrier function)

They are made of lipids (substances like fat, oil , wax)

Question 7

What are the types of emollients ? (Give examples)

Answer 7

Oils- vary in density , fat content & heaviness (from very light to extremely heavy)

Mineral oils- oils from the earth from highly refined & purified petroleum sources. Don’t harbor bacteria, excellent against dehydration, help prevent skin contacts with irritants
Ex: liquid paraffin ,mineral oil, petroleum

Botanical oils- plant oils
Heavy = coconut & palm
Light (less comedogenic) = argan & hemp seed oil which are highly beneficial to oily & problematic skin

Silicones- group of oils chemically combined with silicon & oxygen & leave noncomedogenic film on surface of skin.

Question 8

Products that do not contain any water are called?

Answer 8

Anhydrous (oil based serums, silicone serums, petroleum based products like lip balm. (Aloe Vera is often used instead of water as a vehicle in these product formulations)

Question 9

Derived from plant oils or animal fats:

Answer 9

Fatty acids

Question 10

Fatty acids exposed to hydrogen and have wax like consistency:

Answer 10

Fatty alcohols

Question 11

Combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols produce this: (they almost always end in ate)

Answer 11

Fatty esters

Question 12

FUN FACT:
A surfactant (FUNCTIONAL) reduces tension between the skin and product while increase the ability of cosmetic products to spread. They can act as foaming, cleansing agents and emulsifiers.

Question 13

Name the types of surfactants?

What is the main type of surfactant?

Answer 13

Detergents and emulsifiers

Detergents: used primarily in cleansing products
They are the agents that cause cleansers to foam and remove oil , dirt , makeup and debris from skin surface.

Question 14

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix are called:

Answer 14

Emulsifiers

Question 15

What are the two types of emulsifiers?

Answer 15

•O/W (oil in water) - keep oil drops mixed in water (such as night creams)

•W/O (water in oil) - drops mixed in oil
(Light lotions & serums)

Question 16

What is a delivery system?
What are the types?

Answer 16

(FUNCTIONAL)
Used to distribute key performance ingredients I to the skin once it’s applied.

Vehicles- carry/deliver ingredients into the skin & make them more effective

Liposomes- fluid like spheres (bubbles) that encapsulate and protect performance ingredients.

Polymers- chemical compound formed by small molecules. Used as advanced vehicles that release ingredients onto the skins surface at a microscopically controlled rate.

Question 17

These prevent bacteria,fungi,molds and other microorganisms from living in a product and extend the shelf life of products:

Answer 17

Preservatives

Question 18

What are the types of preservatives:

Answer 18

(FUNCTIONAL)

Traditional- formaldehyde releases & parabens

Organic acids/natural alternatives- combined to provide wide range protection from growth of bacteria & fungi

Antioxidants- reduces rate of oxidation in products extending shelf life

Chelating agents- boost efficacy of preservatives

Question 19

What is fragrances?

Answer 19

(FUNCTIONAL)

Added to mask a formulations u pleasant or natural smell, neutralize the smell or improve consumer experience

Question 20

What are the types of fragrances?

Answer 20

Synthetic- created by combining ingredients in a lab can consist of 200 ingredients

Natural- botanicals

Question 21

What are COLOR AGENTS:

Answer 21

They are substances such as vegetable, pigment, mineral dyes that give product color.

They are Both functional and performance:

As functional they enhance products visual appeal

As performance they change the appearance of the skin

Question 22

What are the two types of color agents?

Answer 22

Colors subject to certification- subject to fda batch certification. Include lakes, organic dyes, pigments. Synthesized from raw material obtained from petroleum. They are CERTIFIED COLORS LISTED AS D&C OR FD&C (drug & cosmetic, food,drug & cosmetic)

Lakes- insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material commonly in colorful cosmetics. Often used to keep color from “bleeding” like lipstick (because it’s not water soluble)

COLOR EXEMPT FROM CERTIFICATION- additives obtained from mineral, plant or animal sources.

Non certified color- not subject to fda batch cert. but still considered artificial