Earth Science, Tarbuck Chapter 15 Flashcards

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1
Q

How is Ocean Circulation Determined

A

pattern of surface-ocean circulation closely matches the
pattern of global winds but is also strongly influenced by
the distribution of major landmasses and by the spinning
of Earth on its axis.

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2
Q

What are Gyres

A

large whirls of water within an ocean basin

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3
Q

What are the 5 main Gyres

A

the North Pacific Gyre, the South Pacific Gyre, the North
Atlantic Gyre, the South Atlantic Gyre, and the Indian
Ocean Gyre

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4
Q

At which latitude do the main 5 Gyres form

A

the center of each gyre coincides with the subtropics at about 30° north or south latitude

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5
Q

What is the Coriolis effect that affects Both wind and Water currents

A

Due to Earth’s rotation, currents are deflected
to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in
the Southern Hemisphere

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6
Q

What is the Only water current that completely circulates around the earth

A

West Wind Drift

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7
Q

What is Upwelling

A

the rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water

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8
Q

What causes upwelling

A

Wind

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9
Q

What is Thermohaline Circulation

A

Also known as deep-ocean circulation, thermohaline circulation is caused by differences in density of Seawater

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10
Q

What causes most waves in the ocean

A

Storms and Wind

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11
Q

As waves get closer to the shore what happens to them

A

Wavelength gets shorter

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12
Q

Waves are usually _______ to the shore

A

Parallel

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13
Q

Where does most coastal upwelling occur

A

West Coast of Continents

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14
Q

How does Deep-Ocean Circulation occur

A

When water gets denser at the surface, it sinks and spreads out

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15
Q

What is the Shoreline

A

The area where the land touches the sea

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16
Q

What is the shore

A

Area between Lowest tide level and highest land affected by Ocean waves

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17
Q

Where is the Coastline found

A

The landward edge of the shore

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18
Q

What is the foreshore

A

the area between Low tide and High tide water levels

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19
Q

What is the backshore

A

The area between the foreshore and the coastline

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20
Q

What is a berm

A

flat sandy platforms near dunes, and the beach face, the wet sloping area to the shoreline.

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21
Q

What are beaches made up of

A

material nearby that is readily available

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22
Q

What are beaches mostly composed of

A

Quartz grains

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23
Q

What aree waves technically

A

energy traveling through water

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24
Q

What are Whitecaps

A

when waves grow tall enough to break, forming white foam

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25
Q

What is circular orbital motion

A

The idea that water moves in circles and returns to its original place in waves, while objects on top of the wave move slightly forward and backward while on the wave

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26
Q

What is swash

A

the rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave.

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27
Q

What is Beach Drift

A

zigzag movement of sediment along the beach caused by the angular motion of swash and the straight motion of backwash

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28
Q

What is backwash

A

As swash recedes back into the ocean, it is called backwash

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29
Q

What are rip currents

A

strong flows of water that move away from the shore, opposite to breaking waves

30
Q

What are wavecut hills

A

a flat, gently sloping rock surface formed at the base of a cliff by the erosive action of waves, essentially creating a “platform” where the cliff has retreated over time due to wave action

31
Q

what is ocean wave refraction

A

the bending of ocean waves as they approach a coastline at an angle, happening because the part of the wave closer to the shore slows down due to friction with the seabed, causing the wave to bend and align more parallel with the coastline

32
Q

What is a sea cave

A

an opening in the headlands caused by surf selectively eroding softer rocks

33
Q

What is a sea arch

A

When two sea caves on opposite sides of a headland unite, a sea arch is formed

34
Q

What is a sea stack

A

When a sea arch falls in, it causes isolated rock structures to form

35
Q

Where is sediment transported along the shore tend to be deposited

A

areas where wave energy is low

36
Q

Where are spits and tombolos formed

A

areas where beach drift and longshore currents are active

37
Q

What are longshore currents

A

ocean currents that flow parallel to the shoreline, caused by waves that approach the beach at an angle

38
Q

What is a spit

A

long ridge of sand that extends into a bay, often curving landward

39
Q

What is a baymouth bar

A

sandbar that completely crosses a bay.

40
Q

What is a sandbar

A

ridge of sand or coarse sediment that is built by waves offshore from a beach

41
Q

What is a tombolo

A

ridge of sand or gravel that connects an island to the mainland.

42
Q

What are barrier islands

A

long, narrow, sandy landforms that are separated from the mainland by bays or lagoons

43
Q

Difference between east and west coasts of america

A

Difference is plate tectonics, as there is active uplift on the west coast, while the east coast is mostly quiet

44
Q

Coasts are usually classified as

A

emergent or submergent

45
Q

What are emergent coasts

A

coasts that are a result of uplift or sea level drop

46
Q

What are submergent coasts

A

sea level rises or land sinks

47
Q

What is a headland

A

raised area of land that extends into a body of water, such as an ocean or lake, and is characterized by a steep cliff on one side

48
Q

What are jetties

A

structures that extend into the water from the shore to protect coastlines and help ships navigate

49
Q

What are groins

A

structures that are built perpendicular to the shoreline to protect beaches from erosion

50
Q

What are the different types of hard stabilization

A

Groins, Jetties, breakwaters, and seawalls.

51
Q

What is a breakwater

A

a structure built parallel to the shore to reduce the impact of waves on the coast

52
Q

What is a seawall

A

a wall erected to prevent the sea from encroaching on or eroding an area of land.

53
Q

What is beach nourishment

A

adding large amounts of sand to the beach

54
Q

How does the Moon’s gravitational pull affect the tides

A

the moon pulls the water on the side of the earth it is closest to, causing a tidal bulge, which also occurs on the direct opposite side of the earth

55
Q

What does the tidal bulge caused by the gravitational pull of the moon cause on earth

A

two high and two low tides per day, as the tidal bulge stays in place while the earth rotates, as the moon only moves moderately

56
Q

The sun also exhibits control on the earths tides but are much weaker than the moons due to what

A

Greater distance from earth

57
Q

When are the gravitational forces of the sun and moon combined, producing larger tidal bulges

A

New and Full moons

58
Q

What does the combination of the gravitational forces of the sun and moon cause

A

higher high tides and lower low tides

59
Q

What are spring tides

A

When the gravitational forces of the sun and moon combine, they form tides with larger range

60
Q

How often do spring tides occur

A

Twice a month

61
Q

When do the gravitational forces of the sun and the moon offset each other

A

1st and 3rd quarters of the lunar cycle, as they act on each other at right angles

62
Q

What are neap tides

A

during the first and third quarters of a lunar cycle, the gravitational forces of the sun and moon offset each other

63
Q

What are the 3 main tidal patterns that exist world wide

A

Diurnal, Semidiurnal, and Mixed

64
Q

What is a diurnal tidal pattern

A

a single high tide and a single low tide each tidal day

65
Q

What is a semidiurnal tidal pattern

A

exhibits two high tides and two low tides each tidal
day, with the two highs about the same height and the
two lows about the same height

66
Q

What is a mixed tidal pattern

A

2 high tides and 2 low tides each tidal day, but heights are unequal

67
Q

Where do diurnal tidal patterns occur in america

A

northern shore of the Gulf of Mexico

68
Q

Where do semidiurnal tidal patterns occur in america

A

Atlantic Coast
of the United States

69
Q

Where do mixed tidal patterns occur in america

A

Pacific Coast of the United States

70
Q
A