Geography- Marine Terminology Flashcards
Wave fetch
Distance that air blows over the ocean
Wave crest
Highest point of a wave
Wave trough
Lowest point of a wave
Wave height
Distance between trough and crest
Wave length
Distance between one crest or trough and the next
Swash
Movement of water up a beach
Backwash
Movement of water down a beach
High tide
State of the tide when at its highest
Low tide
State if the tide when at its lowest
Backshore
Not affected by wave action
Foreshore
Only affected during high tide
Near shore
Exposed only during low tide
Coastal erosion
The wearing away and breaking up of rock along the coast.
Hydraulic action
Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.
Abrasion
Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.