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PR2202 > Chapter 9 - Hair Cosmetics > Flashcards

Chapter 9 - Hair Cosmetics Flashcards

1
Q

What is a hair follicle?

A

A hair follicle is a part of the skin, which grows a hair by packing old cells together. Attached inside the top of the follicle are sebaceous glands, which are tiny sebum-producing glands

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2
Q

What is the function of the arrector pili muscle?

A

it is connected near the center of the center of the hair follicle and runs at an angle towards the epidermis and when it senses cold, the muscle will erect the hair

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3
Q

What is the hair bulb?

A
  • Deep bulbous portion of the follicle that surrounds the dermal papilla
  • Cells move to the upper part of the bulb where they become elongated (elongation region)
  • Further up is the keratogenous zone where the keratin of the hair is stabilized
  • Tall cells lining the dermal papilla are melanin-producing melanocytes
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4
Q

Describe the movement of epithelial cells?

A

1) Epithelial cells of the hair cortex move up the matrix and acquire pigment granules (melanosomes)
2) As they move up, they are cut off from their supply of nourishment and cells die
3) Dead cells and keratin form the shaft of the hair

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5
Q

Describe the basic anatomy of the hair shaft.

A

From outside to the center:

Cuticle -> cortex -> medulla

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6
Q

Describe the composition and function of the cuticle of the hair shaft.

A
  • Outer surface of the hair
  • Covers the entire hair from the root to the tip
  • Overlapping scale-like structure
  • Made of translucent, non-pigmented cells
  • Rough surface composed of hard keratin protein
  • Susceptible to mechanical wear and easily removed by excessive rushing or strong shampoo
  • Makes up 10-15% of the hair
  • Covers the cortex and confers strength and protection to it
  • When removed cortex is exposed and barely resists to insults and breaks off
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7
Q

Describe the composition and function of the cortex of the hair shaft.

A
  • Made up of densely packed spindle-shaped cells aligned along long axis of the hair on the inner face of the cuticle
  • Makes up 85-90% of the hair
  • Cortical cells contain melanin granules that determine hair color
  • Cortical cells contribute to smoothness & softness of the hair
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8
Q

What level of penetration does permanent hair dyes require?

A

Penetration inside the hair cortex

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9
Q

Describe the composition and function of the medulla of the hair shaft.

A
  • Forms the center of the hair shaft
  • Composed of honeycomb-like cells with empty spaces aligned along the longitudinal axis of the hair
  • Thick hair may have thick medulla
  • Not found in vellus hair and infant hair
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10
Q

How does the medulla make the hair look brighter?

A

Air spaces in the medulla working like microscopic mirrors and reflecting the incidence light, then the hair looks brighter

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11
Q

Describe the mechanical & electrical properties of hair

A
  • Hair shaft is a strong fiber, resistant to bending, deformation.
  • Strength decreases either with wet hair or deficiency in proteins
  • Electrical charges can be varied by rubbing and shampooing. ‘Fly-away’ phenomenon due to repulsive charges
  • Conditioner moderates static charges between hairs and between hair and materials
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12
Q

What is the natural function of hairs?

A
  • Characteristic feature of all mammals
  • Covers the entire body
  • Head hair protects skull & facial bones vs sun rays and cold
  • Eyebrows protect eyes against perspiration and dust
  • Nasal hair blocks dust, insects, etc and acts as an air filter
  • Axillary hair reduce the friction during body movement and disseminate apocrine gland odor (pheromones)
  • Pubic hairs have excitatory functions during sexual intercourse
  • All hair follicles are richly endowed with sensory receptors and have a strong sense of touch
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13
Q

What are the social functions of hair?

A
  • Distinguishes one’ ethnicity, varying from straight to curly in form and from dark to blond in color
  • Difference in the amount of body hair between races
  • Hair is subjected to inter-racial and inter-individual variations
  • No other part on the human body that is morphologically so much variable and environmentally sensitive as hair
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14
Q

What are the characteristics of ‘Asian’, ‘Caucasian’ and ‘Afro’ hair?

A

Asian - Round to slightly oval-shaped follicles; straight to wavy hair
Caucasian - Oval-shaped follicles; straight to curly hair
Afro - Oval to elliptical follicles; curly to coiled hair

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15
Q

What are the causes of excessive body hairs?

A
  • Increased level of male hormones (androgens)
  • Oversensitivity of hair follicles to androgens
  • Testosterone stimulates hair growth, increase sizes and intensify the growth and pigmentation of hair.
  • Also causes acne, deepening of voice and increase muscle mass
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16
Q

What are the psychological functions of hair?

A
  • Psychological problems of hair loss occur in both sexes.
  • Closely related to physical attractiveness
  • Baldness leads to overestimation of age of affected males
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17
Q

What are 3 important facts about hair?

A

1) Number of hair follicles in human beings is fixed at birth
2) The speed at which hair grows depends on the location of hair, gender, and race. (0.44 mm/day for crown head hairs and 0.16mm/day for eyebrows)
3) After puberty, secondary sexual hair develops from vellus hair in response to androgens

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18
Q

What are the similarities and differences of terminal and vellus hair?

A
  • Terminal hair is thicker and darker while vellus is less visible, much finer and lighter in color
  • All have the same basic structure
  • Terminal hair is limited to the scalp, eyebrows and eyelashes
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19
Q

Which areas of the body does not have hair?

A

Palms of hands, soles of feet, lips, nipples and mucous membranes, hair covers the entire body.

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20
Q

Describe the hair cycle

A
  • Hairs do not grow continuously, unlike the nails. They repeatedly grow, fall out and re-grow
  • Life of each hair is independent of other hairs
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21
Q

What is anagen?

A

Anagen is the active growth phase of hair follicles during which the root of the hair is dividing rapidly, adding to the hair shaft. During this phase, the hair grows about 1 cm every 28 days.

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22
Q

What are the 2 hair growth patterns?

A

1) Whorl - occurs when the hair leaves the follicle at an angle (often spiral outwards from a central point, usually they run clockwise and sometimes more than 1 whorl can be seen)
2) Cowlick - Due to a particular hair stream in the forehead (more noticeable with people with short thick hair)

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23
Q

Describe the characteristic of different hair forms.

A
  • Form of hair varies with racial type
  • 3 types: straight, wavy and curly
  • Difference in form according to location; straight for head hair but curly for underarm hair
  • Thickness depends on race, age and sex
  • Cross-sectional shape of hair can be circular, oval or flattened
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24
Q

What is the hair diameter index?

A
  • Ratio of minor axis of the cross-section of hair to the major axis of hair
  • Index of 1 indicates perfectly circular hair, while smaller indicates flat hair
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25
Q

What determines the human hair shape?

A

The bulb of curly hair

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26
Q

Which is more fragile, curly hair or straight hair and why?

A

Curly hair as it has a lower hair diameter index and stretches less under mechanical stress, more likely to break

27
Q

What is the difference in the growth of hair for Asian, Caucasian and African?

A

Asian - Low density grows very fast
African - Slow hair growth and low density
Caucasian - Grows at intermediate rate and is very dense

28
Q

How is color of hair related to aging?

A
  • Aging poeple have the production of melanin decreased or stopped (thus grey)
  • Body and facial hair also turn gray but after scalp hair. (Hair in the armpit, chest, and pubic area may gray less or not at all)
  • Graying largely determined by genes and hormones
  • Probable accumulation of toxic intermediates.
  • Gray hair tends to occur in white people and later in Asians
29
Q

Why is the common myth about taking supplements to stop graying?

A

Nutritional supplements, vitamins and other products are not effective.

30
Q

Describe the chemical composition of hair.

A

1) Salt linkages - broken by acidic or alkaline solutions
2) Peptide linkage - Strongest bond
3) Disulfide bonds - Enhanced when want to promote curls (permanent waves)
4) Hydrogen bond - Bond affected when hair is soaked in water.

31
Q

What are the 3 causes of hair damage?

A

1) Chemical - Permanent wave, hair coloring
2) Environmental - UV light, dry atmosphere, heating
3) Physical - Over-brushing (damage @ cuticle)

32
Q

What are the symptoms of damaged hair?

A
  • Becomes dry and brittle
  • Loses it body and luster
  • Becomes difficult to style
  • Color changes to reddish (breakdown of eumelanin)
  • Has split (loss of cuticle) and broken ends
33
Q

What are the important points to consider when choosing hair cleansing cosmetics?

A

1) If dirt has been removed
2) Feeling during and after washing
3) Care afterwards

34
Q

What are the important points to consider when choosing shampoo?

A

1) Appropriate cleansing ability
2) Producing lasting, rich creamy lather
3) Protect hair from friction damage during washing
4) Natural luster and softness after washing
5) Safe to scalp, hair and eye

35
Q

What are the requirements of a detergent?

A
  • Detergent or surfactant that removes dirt, sebum and skin scale from hair & scalp
  • Amphiphilic - both lipophilic (oil-attracting) and hydrophilic (water-attracting) sites
  • Lipophilic bind to sebum and oily dirt while hydrophilic ends binds to water, allowing removal of sebum when washing with water
36
Q

What are the different categories of shampoo detergents?

A

1) Anionics
2) Cationic
3) Amphoterics
4) Non-ionics
5) Natural surfactant

37
Q

Describe the chemical class and characteristics of anionics shampoo detergents.

A

Chemical class - Lauryl sulfates, laureth sulfates

Characteristics - Deep cleansing may leave hair harsh

38
Q

Describe the chemical class and characteristics of cationic shampoo detergents.

A

Chemical class - Long chain amino esters, ammonioesters

Characteristics - Poor cleansing, poor lather, impart softness and manageability

39
Q

Describe the chemical class and characteristics of amphoterics shampoo detergents.

A

Chemical class - Betaines, sultaines

Characteristics - Non-irritating to eyes, mild cleansing, impart manageability

40
Q

Describe the chemical class and characteristics of nonionic shampoo detergents.

A

Chemical class - Polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters alkanolamides
Characteristics - Mildest cleansing, impart manageability

41
Q

Describe the chemical class and characteristics of natural surfactant shampoo detergents.

A

Chemical class - Sarsaparilla, soapwort, soap bark, ivy agave
Characteristics - Poor cleansing, excellent lather

42
Q

What kind of shampoo is appropriate for the following cases: (1) Dry hair shampoo, (2) Oily hair shampoo, (3) Everyday shampoo, (4) Deep cleaning shampoo, (5) Baby shampoo

A

(1) Dry hair shampoo - Cationic
(2) Oily hair shampoo - Anionic
(3) Everyday shampoo - Cationic
(4) Deep cleaning shampoo - Anionic
(5) Baby shampoo - Amphoterics

43
Q

What is the characteristics and function of hair conditioners?

A
  • Impart manageability, gloss and antistatic properties to the hair
  • Contain moisturizers, oils and sunscreen
  • Important to include moisturizers like glycerin, dimethicone and propylene glycol
44
Q

What are the 3 main types of hair conditioning agents?

A

1) Quaternaries: + charged, decrease electrostatic interactions; good choice for permanently dyed or waved hair
2) Film forming: PVP, coat the shaft with a film; not recommended for fine hair, good for normal and dry hair
3) Conditioning substances: Include hydrolyzed silk and animal protein

45
Q

What are the 3 main types of hair conditioners?

A

1) Instant conditioners and rinses - Applied following shampoo, leave for 5 minutes and rinsed (mainly for manageability)
2) Deep conditioners - Usually creams, more concentrated than instant ones, leave on for 20-30 minutes and may include heat. Good for extremely dry hair
3) Leave-in conditioners - applied following towel drying, removed next shampooing

46
Q

Why are pH adjusters added in conditioners?

A

Conditioners are frequently acidic, causing a positive charge on keratin and creates more bonds, giving the hair a more compact structure. Organic acids such as citric acid are usually used to maintain acidity similar to the scalp.

47
Q

What are 2 ingredients commonly used to achieve commercial success for hair cosmetics?

A

1) Foaming agents
- Induce gas bubbles into the water but does not help with cleansing (cocodiethanolamide)
- Sebum inhibits the bubble formulation (more foam during second shampooing)
2) Thickeners & opacifiers
- Many shampoos are pearlescent achieved by addition of glycol disterate and PEG-150 disterate which increase product viscosity

48
Q

What is the use of hair styling cosmetics?

A

For setting and adjusting hairstyle, for enhancing hair’s gloss and feeling, improved quality and ease of management

49
Q

What are examples of hair styling cosmetics?

A

1) Hair spray: keeps the style obtained from combing and drying the hair. PVP is one of the main ingredients and becomes sticky upon contact with water. Once wet, film loses its holding ability
2) Gel: applied on wet or dry hair. Divided into styling gels and sculpturing gels (stronger). Can be removed by combing and brushing, leave behind white polymeric flakes that resemble dandruff
3) Mousse: as a foam released under pressure; less flaky and sticky under moist conditions
4) Serum: for damaged hair, consists of moisturizers based on dimethicone (best on dry hair)

50
Q

What are the 2 types of hair styling devices?

A

1) Non electric
- Requires wet hair as it is more elastic, allowing partial transformation of keratin from alpha to beta keratin under tension through disruption of H and ionic bonds.
- When dried, new bonds are formed, blocking the return to natural alpha keratin
- Wetting returns to natural alpha configuration
2) Electric
- Heat temporarily reforms water bonds within the hair shaft.
- Hair dryer and crimping iron use heat to denature the hair protein, resulting in cuticle damage and easily fractured hair

51
Q

What is permanent hair waving?

A
  • Chemical process based on altering about 20% of disulfide linkages in the hair keratin filament. Disulfide (-S-S-) linkages responsible for the elasticity and can be reformed to change the configuration of the hair shaft
  • Makes use of hot irons (discontinued) and by 1930s, cold wave method.
52
Q

Describe the process of permanent waving.

A

(1) Washing hair to remove sebum
(2) Existing -S-S- bonds are broken by a reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate at pH of 8-9.5)
(3) New -S-S- bonds made using an oxidizing agent

53
Q

Describe the shortcomings of permanent hair wave.

A
  • Should last for 3-4 months
  • Dry waved shaft is shorter than natural hair
  • Chemically treated shaft is 20% weaker
  • Hair is more difficult to comb, due to swelling as a single of cuticle damage
54
Q

What is hair straightening?

A
  • Permanent method of hair straightening is called lanthionization and uses ‘relaxers’.
  • Use of a base to change about 35% of -S-S- bonds and some hydrolysis of peptidic bonds (Harsher than permanent waving
  • Sodium thioglycolate at pH 13.
  • Least damaging is ammonium bisulfite creams but short-lived straightening
55
Q

Describe the process of hair straightening.

A

(1) No shampooing (needs protection from sebum)
(2) Apply petrolatum to scalp and hairline
(3) Apply relaxer cream (e..g sodium hydroxide) with pH = 13. Comb straight
(4) Rinse within 20 minutes, apply neutralizers and conditioner

56
Q

What are the 2 subgroups of melanin that gives rise to ‘black’, ‘blond’ and ‘red’ hairs?

A

Black, straight - Mostly eumelanin
Blond, straight - Pheomelanin and little eumelanin
Red, wavy - Pheomelanin and little eumelanin (More mix)

57
Q

What are the reasons people color hair?

A
  • Youthful look, gray hair less prominent

- More stylish, changing hair color

58
Q

What are the 4 categories of hair coloring and bleach?

A

Classified based on degree of durability:

(1) Temporary - washed out instantly (outermost cuticle)
(2) Semi-permanent (parts of cuticle and cortex)
(3) Permanent (cortex)
(4) Bleach

59
Q

Describe the process of gradual/metallic/progressive hair color.

A
  • Gradual darkening
  • Employ water-soluble metal salts, such as lead, silver, nickel etc.
  • Poor color quality, leaving brittle, dull hair, especially in permanent waving
  • Suitable for men with short, mostly dark hair, who are unlikely to undergo other treatment
60
Q

Describe the process of temporary hair color.

A
  • Designed to be removed in one shampoo treatment
  • Dyes have particle sizes that are too big to penetrate, hence no damage to the hair.
  • Rinses, used for people with grey hair who want to remove undesirable yellow tone.
  • Mousse/gel/wax to both style and color hair
61
Q

Describe the process of semi-permanent hair color.

A
  • To be used on unbleached hair
  • Removed in 4-6 shampoos, due to their size that allow entry and exit to the hair shaft
  • Formulation contains alkalinizing agents to help in the swelling and dye penetration
  • Produce tone-on-tone coloring rather than drastic changes
  • Not possible to lighten hair, nor darken of more than 3 tones (good for people with <30% grey hair)
  • Natural walnut stain for deep brownish -black color
  • Vegetation dyes: mainly henna, which imparts a reddish hue
62
Q

Describe the process of permanent hair color.

A
  • Forms large color molecules in the cortex that cannot be removed by shampooing
  • Used to cover grey hair (>605) and change color drastically
  • Contain colorless precursors (para-phenylendiamine, PPD), becomes colored upon reaction with hydrogen peroxide (oxidizing and bleaching agent)
  • Allow both lighter and darker shades, although hydrogen peroxide alone cannot remove sufficient melanin in dark hair. Need booster (Potassium sulfate or ammonium persulfate)
  • Will notice reddish hues with time, due to difficulty in bleaching reddish pheomelanin
  • Most damaging to the hair
63
Q

Describe the process of hair lightening/lifting/bleaching.

A
  • Oxidizing agents in bleaches take part in a chemical reaction with melanin
  • Provide the melanin molecule with oxygen from their own molecules. (Oxidized melanin is colorless)
  • Melanin is contained in the cortex of the hair
  • For the oxidizing agent to reach the melanin, it has to get through the cuticle.
  • In the alkaline bleach solution, the scales of the cuticle are raised and the bleach chemicals can then penetrate the cortex
  • About 20% of disulfide bonds are degraded with moderate bleaching, up to 45% during severe bleaching.
  • Also, the damage to the cuticle causes more friction and more tangled hair.

PR2202 (19 decks)

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