Chapter 1 - Introduction to Perfumes Flashcards
Definition of perfume
Carefully balanced blend of ingredients in which each material plays its definitive role in contributing to the overall fragrance.
Classification of perfumes
(1) Ingredients used
(2) Family/ Characterisitic odour
(3) Strength of perfume
(4) Utilization
Types of perfume ingredients
Essential oil, floral water resinoids, concretes, absolutes and synthetic aroma chemicals
Types of odour
Floral, woody, oriental, chypre (citrus)
Strength of perfume
Parfum > eau de toilette > eau de cologne
Types of perfume application
Personal, cosmetic or industrial use
Main uses of perfume
Personal adornment, masking undesirable odours, improve odour (original odour not nice), aromatherapy and religious ceremonies
Perfume history of Egypt
Incense (religious prayers)
Aesthetic intentions
Embalming their dead
Types of incense burnt in ancient Egypt (within the day)
Resins at dawn, myrrh at noon and kaphi at sunset
What perfume vehicles are used in ancient Egypt
Scent diluted in sesame oil, almond oil, and olive oil
P/S nowadays these vehicle also used for massage
What perfumes and why is perfumes used embalming the dead in Egypt?
myrrh for intestines and body covered with sodium sesquicarbonate to dry epidermis and tissues
Transmigration of souls after the person die.
Where is the origin of Myrrh and Frankincense?
From Somalia and southern Arabia
What is Myrrh?
Gum-resin that is yellowish red in colour
Smells more medicinal
What is Frankincense?
Gum resins exudates from tree bark that is milky white in colour. Dries to form large translucent tears
Smells sweeter than Myrrh.
Who is Theophrastus (Greece)
Wrote recipes of ancient perfumes and make perfumes last longer.
(1) Susinon
(2) Megaleion
When did perfume and cosmetics become popular in Rome?
When Nero was the emperor of Rome (AD 54)
What are the main types of perfumes in Rome?
(1) Solid unguents (Hedysmata) - Lipstick
(2) Liquid unguents (Stmmata) - Perfume oil
(3) Powdered perfumes (Diapasmata)
What did Avicenna do?
He perfected the fragrant oil from flowers (Islamic world)
What is the first alcoholic perfume?
Hungary water and it was attribute to Queen Elizabeth of Hungary
What does Hungary water smell like?
Medicinal (Rosemary, Verbena, Limette and Peppermint oil)
When was perfume introduced to France
16 century AD bu Catherine de Medici
What is perfume used extensively in 16 - 17 century
Mask obnoxious smell
Why was bathing shun before 18 century?
Make body feminine and vulnerable to diseases, so people wash clothes instead of bathing.
What is Eau de Cologne?
Eau de Cologne has 2 meanings:
(1) Strength of perfume
(2) perfume from 17 - 18 century
Invented in Italy, sold in Germany
What kind of perfume became popular in the late 18th century?
Delicate floral or herbal scents
Houbigant (France) - Fougere Royale
Yardley (england) - Lavender Water
What is prominent in the 19th century?
Solvent extract of scent perfect and synthetic scents were developed. (Larger quantities and cheaper)
What perfume is little black dress?
La Petite Robe Noire
What is unique about Chanel No 5?
First perfume containing a lot of aldehydes (floral aldehyde) - give a right effervescence in year 1925
