Chapter 15 - Perfume Creation: Perfume Structure, Technical Requirements and Perfume Blending Flashcards
What are the main components of the structure of a perfume?
1) Perfumery accord
2) Relation between top, middle and base notes
3) Balance between simplicity and complexity
What are perfumery accords?
- Blend of perfume materials with a pleasing effect and balanced in odour intensity
- Commonly used as building blocks of perfumes
What are the procedures to synthesizing a perfumery accord?
1) Start by blending 2 materials in various ratios with different concentrations.
- Aim: Obtain a mixture with a unique character, distinct from that of component parts
2) Make accords with more materials or material with different volatility
What is the relation between top, middle and base notes?
Top notes: Citrus - Relatively high volatility - First impression/ Initial impact - Give brightness and clarity Middle notes: Floral - Intermediate volatility - Impart warmth and fullness Base notes: - Heavier smelling, deeply resonating and long lasting - Improve tenacity of perfume blend
What are the proportions of top, middle and base notes for a perfume/fragrance concentrate diluted in alcohol at 12-18%?
Top: 15-25%
Middle: 30-40%
Base: 45-55%
What constitutes a well-made perfume?
- Created around a strong and comparatively simple main accord (Essential character)
- Additional modifying materials and other accords to (1) Complete its full olfactory character, (2) Impart roundness and aesthetic quality
What does the complexity of a perfume refer to?
- To relate to its overall structure
- Avoid adding materials just ‘for sake of complexity’
- Can be attained using natural ingredients and bases (building blocks/perfume subunits)
What are the various terminologies for ‘base’ in perfumery?
- Base notes: aka basic, end notes
- Unperfumed medium
- Perfume subunit or building block
How are bases important in perfumery?
- Increase the palette of olfactory notes
- Perfume material more readily incorporated into a perfume formula
- Uses include: (1) Duplication of flower fragrances (2) Adding trace components (3) Introducing intensely powerful materials
What are the technical requirements of a perfume?
- Perfume characteristics:
(1) Be sufficiently strong
(2) Be diffusive
(3) Be persistent
(4) Retain its essential character throughout its evaporation period - Evaluation of a perfume’s performance (its ability to make its presence noticed)
(1) Time: Soon after application; some time after application
(2) Location: Near perfume source; some distance away
What are the different aspects of a perfume’s performance in relation to time and location?
1) Near perfume source; soon after application: Impact
2) Near perfume source; some time after application: Tenacity
3) At some distance from perfume source; soon after application: Diffusion
4) At some distance from perfume source; some time after application: Volume
Explain the terms “Impact”, “Tenacity”, “Diffusion”, “Volume”.
Impact - Effectiveness of the perfume during first moment of product experience (e.g sniffing it soon after application)
Tenacity - Long-term effectiveness of the perfume in the perfumed product or son the surface (e.g skin) to which the product is applied
Diffusion - Measure of distance over which the perfume is noticeable soon after application
Volume - Effectiveness of the perfume over distance, some time after application
What are the techniques to perfume blending?
- Persistence of purpose
- Immense practice
- Wide knowledge of aromatic substances
- Ingredient selection and use
- Mix in correct proportions: (Tenacity, Harmony, desired fragrance)
What knowledge of aromatic substances are essential for perfume blending?
- Source and characteristics that determine the quality of each material
- Perfume notes
- Odour intensity
- Blending range
- Odour effects
