Chapter 14 - Perfume Families

Question 1

What are examples of perfume families?

Answer 1

Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Woody, Fougere, Aromatic, Citrus, Aquatic/Marine

Question 2

Describe the ‘floral’ family.

Answer 2

• Single floral note or harmonious bouquet
• Literal representation of flowers or Abstract floral bouquet
• Essentially feminine

Question 3

What are floral aldehydic perfumes?

Answer 3

Perfume that contains significant amounts of aliphatic aldehydes and floral, woody and animalic notes.

Question 4

What are floral sweet perfumes?

Answer 4

Originates from the 1st decade of the 20th century AD.

Olfactory character lies between florals and orientals.

Question 5

Describe the ‘Chypre’ family.

Answer 5

• Style of perfumery associated with Cyprus. (Past)
• Refers to a special group of perfumes based on Coty’s Chypre (1917) perfume
• Based on oakmoss in combination with bergamot, jasmine, labdanum and animalic notes including civet and musk
• Woody, green and fruity notes. Leather and patchouli for different variations of chypre accord.

Question 6

What is the olfactory character of Chypre and what are some examples?

Answer 6

• Reminiscent of mossy woods (e.g blend of oakmoss, citrus and amber notes)
• Mitsouko (Guerlain, 1919)
• Miss Dior (1947)

Question 7

Describe the ‘Oriental’ family.

Answer 7

• Composed of deeply resonating essences of musk, vanilla, precious woods, resins and exotic flowers, spices and fruits
• Sensual, voluptuous, warm and exotic
• Suitable for both men and women

Question 8

What are some examples of ‘Oriental’ perfumes?

Answer 8

• Shalimar (Guerlain, 1925)
• Youth Dew (Estee Lauder, 1952)
• Opium (YSL, 1977)
• Obsession (Calvin Klein, 1985)

Question 9

Describe the ‘Aromatic’ family.

Answer 9

• Based on aromatic herbs. (Sage, rosemary, thyme and lavender.)
• Often complemented with citrus and spicy notes
• Popular in men’s perfumery

Question 10

Name an example of an aromatic perfume.

Answer 10

Drakkar Noir (Guy Laroche, 1982)

Question 11

Describe the ‘Fougere’ family.

Answer 11

• Named after Fougere Royale (Houbigant, 1882)
• Classic fougere accord based on larvender, oakmoss, coumarin + bergamot, geranium and vetiver
• Fresh, woodland scent with herbaceous/aromatic notes (e.g larvender top notes with mossy base)

Question 12

Describe the ‘Marine/Water/Ozonic/Aquatic’ family.

Answer 12

• Using synthetic fragrance ingredients e.g Calone

- Watery, Aquatic feeling, ozone, sea air, marine notes; evoking refreshing, clean qualities

Question 13

Name examples of ‘Marine/Water/Ozonic/Aquatic’ perfumes.

Answer 13

New West (Aramis, 1990)
Escape (Calvin Klein, 1991)
L’Eau d’Issey (1992)
Cool Water Woman (Davidoff, 1996)

Question 14

Describe the ‘Green’ family.

Answer 14

• Classic green scents recalling freshly-cut leaves and violet leaves, new-mown hay
• Newer green scents of light green notes