Chapter 6 - Skin Care and Anti-aging Flashcards
What is the main stress factors that cause skin premature again?
1) Depression
2) Pollution
3) UV
4) Smoking
5) Drinking/ Alcohol
6) Sweet treats
7) Lack of sleep
8) Stress
What is skin premature aging mainly associated with?
UV radiation- accounting for 70-90% of premature aging.
Define what is premature aging.
Damage of skin cells creating a dull and unhealthy appearance of the skin
How does lack of sleep cause premature aging?
When there is lack of sleep, there is a loss of growth hormone. Skin repair is by deep sleep
What are the 2 types of skin aging?
1) Chronological aging - aging due to passage of time
2) Photoaging - environmental aggressors
How do wrinkles form?
When there is compromised production of collagen. Lower levels of collagen will leaf to wrinkles forming.
What are the symptoms of chronological aging?
1) Fine wrinkles
2) Laxity (looseness of muscles and ligaments)
3) Benign neoplasms (a new or abnormal growth of tissue in a part of the body)
What are the symptoms of photo-aging?
1) Deep coarse wrinkles
2) Mottled pigmentation
3) Sallowness
4) Dryness (spider veins near skin surface)
5) Telangiectasia
6) Laxity
7) Atrophy (degeneration of cells)
8) Leathery appearance
9) Elastosis (Accumulation of elastic tissue)
10) Actinic purpura (Rupture of blood vessels)
What are the main factors that contribute to the Asian aging?
1) Diet that includes plenty of fresh fish, vegetables and low levels of meat and saturated fat
2) Lifestyle, getting people outdoors even in older years
3) A lot of stress-relieving cultural activities
4) Advanced health system
What is progeria?
Progeria is a genetic disorder that leads to accelerated aging as it cannot repair DNA damage.
What are the differences between Asian skin and Caucasian skin?
From Asian skin perspective:
1) Stratum corneum is thinner (-)
2) Stratum corneum has higher ceramide content (+)
3) Higher TEWL (-)
4) Lower NMF level in stratum corneum (-)
5) Less sign of aging and better elasticity recovery under UV (+)
6) No obvious wrinkle before 30, first seen deep wrinkle until 50 because of thicker dermis (+)
7) Lower age of onset of hyperpigmentation (+)
8) Higher acute skin irritation responses (-)
What is the difference in the onset of wrinkle of Caucasians and Asians?
Chinese (Asian) women wrinkles become apparent 10 years later in average as compared to Caucasian and follows a non-linear progression
For Asians, pigmentation occurs before wrinkles as compared to Caucasians (reverse)
Most Chinese women show many facial pigmented spots at an early age
What are the 3 areas that wrinkle are most prevalent?
1) Crow’s foot (around eyes)
2) Glabella (smooth part of the forehead
3) Perioral area (Tissues around the mouth)
What causes pigmentation?
Aggregation of melanosomes
Describe the aging process.
1) At 25 yrs old, skin barrier function declines
2) Moisture loss, pigmentation, freckle and melasma (hormone for pregnancy)
3) Protein breaks down, wrinkle and collagen disruption
4) Wrinkle deepens, unnatural complexion, menopause problems.
Describe the anti-aging process.
1) Acne care, moisturization, UV protection, antioxidant
2) Brightening, even skin tone, anti-pigmentation - advanced whitening
3) Anti-wrinkle, collagen and elastin boost, DNA repair
4) Cell communication, hormonal balance
What is the melanin epidermal unit responsible for?
Melanin synthesis and deposition
Describe the process of pigmentation.
1) UV radiation or aging stimulates keratinocytes
2) Keratinocytes produce signaling factors that activates melanocytes
3) Melanogenesis and transfer of melanin to keratinocytes
What is hormone-driven pigmentation called?
MELASMA
What are the 2 main ways to prevent skin pigmentation?
1) Suppress the production of melanin
2) Reduce the accumulation, maturation, and transportation of melanin
Describe the pathway of skin whitening or anti skin pigmentation.
UV protection, anti-oxidation -> Inhibition of the signal from keratinocytes to activate melanocytes -> Inhibit formation and maturation of melanosomes (Melan-A and Pmel17) -> Inhibit melanin-synthesizing enzymes (tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2) which are responsible for formation of brown-black pigment -> Inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes (No pigmentation @ surface)
What is masstige?
Masstige refers to mass-produced, relatively inexpensive goods which are marketed as luxurious or prestigious.
What are the core functions of masstige products?
1) Advanced time zone: hydration + anti-wrinkle
2) Resilience lift: firming + re-contour
What are the core functions of prestige products?
1) RE-nutriv Replenishing Comfort: soothe + nutrition + anti-wrinkle
2) RE-nutriv Ultimate Lift: firming + lifting + repairing
3) RE-nutriv Radiant white age-renewal: anti pigmentation
4) RE-nutriv Recreation: recreate and renew
What are the eco-conscious minds about ‘natural’?
- 81% consider natural & organic personal care (NOPC) products better for their health
- 45% of US Millennials look for organic claims when buying personal care products
- ‘Natural’ term can curb growing consumer insecurity over ingredient safety
What are ‘superfoods’?
They are food ingredients that supply the skin with a healthy nutrient boost. ‘Damaged’ fruit offers enriched source of skin care actives. Not just the peel but also infected leaves with scab showed up to a 20% increase in phenolic (antioxidant) compounds. Also helps to lessen human footprint.
What are the sources for the key ingredients for anti-aging products?
1) Botanical
2) Biotechnology
3) Marine ingredients
4) Peptides and amino acids
5) Vitamins, anti-oxidants, and minerals
What are the 3 main vitamins associated with anti-aging products?
Vitamin C, E, and B
What does collagen repair help with?
Helps to remove the excess fluids that gives us puffy eyes
What is AA2G and what does it help with?
Ascorbic acid (Vit C) . It helps decrease TEWL and acts as a moisturizer. it is the core competency ingredient for anti pigmentation and skin tone.
What is Niacinamide and what is the function?
Vitamin B3. There is a multi-functional chassis ingredient to scavenge ROS and improve skin health.
Niacinadmide aids in DNA repair and maintenance of stability. It helps to overcomes the energy crisi in severe DNA damage which would normally lead to cell death.
It is also an effective skin lightening compound as it inhibits melanin transfer
Reduces Fine lines and wrinkles
Where is Vitamin K present?
It is present in hydrophilic matrices. It helps decrease leakiness and release the fluids
What are the functions of Vitamins C & E in anti-aging?
Photo-aging occurs due to ROS in the skin and vitamin C and E reduces ROS in living skin and improve protection on skin.
Why is vitamin C efficacy not obvious when taken as a supplement?
Vitamin C is very unstable and easily oxidized when exposed to air and sunlight
Solution: Stay-C 50
What are the requirements for antioxidants and formulations?
- High antioxidative capacity and reactivity in order to neutralize the very short time living ROS in the skin
- Antioxidants should not be converted into reactive radical species
- Antioxidants should be sufficiently stable inside a cosmetic formulation
- The lipophilic or hydrophilic character of antioxidants determines the distribution inside the skin tissues and makes them more or less accessible to free radicals
- The cosmetic formulation may enhance or hinder the penetration ability of actives inside the skin.
What is the antioxidant that is 20 times more potent than Vitamin E with an excellent long-term duration?
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol (Lipochroman)
What are the functions of lipochroman?
1) Shield against oxidative stress
2) Anti-photo aging and protection against pollution
What are the benefits of Antarcticine?
1) Helps the skin retain water, preventing skin dryness and increasing moisturization
2) Protects the skin from cold weather due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals
3) Stimulates skin cells’ growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds
4) Increases collagen, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles especially on the forehead and around the eyes
How can muscle contraction be prevented?
By using argireline peptide.
- A hexapeptide that can be used daily
- modulates the formation of the SNARE complex by competing with SNAP-25 for a place in the complex
- Interferes with the formation and stability of the complex but does so safely
What is argireline peptide a topical alternative to?
Botulinum toxins
