Chapter 6 - Skin Care and Anti-aging

Question 1

What is the main stress factors that cause skin premature again?

Answer 1

1) Depression
2) Pollution
3) UV
4) Smoking
5) Drinking/ Alcohol
6) Sweet treats
7) Lack of sleep
8) Stress

Question 2

What is skin premature aging mainly associated with?

Answer 2

UV radiation- accounting for 70-90% of premature aging.

Question 3

Define what is premature aging.

Answer 3

Damage of skin cells creating a dull and unhealthy appearance of the skin

Question 4

How does lack of sleep cause premature aging?

Answer 4

When there is lack of sleep, there is a loss of growth hormone. Skin repair is by deep sleep

Question 5

What are the 2 types of skin aging?

Answer 5

1) Chronological aging - aging due to passage of time

2) Photoaging - environmental aggressors

Question 6

How do wrinkles form?

Answer 6

When there is compromised production of collagen. Lower levels of collagen will leaf to wrinkles forming.

Question 7

What are the symptoms of chronological aging?

Answer 7

1) Fine wrinkles
2) Laxity (looseness of muscles and ligaments)
3) Benign neoplasms (a new or abnormal growth of tissue in a part of the body)

Question 8

What are the symptoms of photo-aging?

Answer 8

1) Deep coarse wrinkles
2) Mottled pigmentation
3) Sallowness
4) Dryness (spider veins near skin surface)
5) Telangiectasia
6) Laxity
7) Atrophy (degeneration of cells)
8) Leathery appearance
9) Elastosis (Accumulation of elastic tissue)
10) Actinic purpura (Rupture of blood vessels)

Question 9

What are the main factors that contribute to the Asian aging?

Answer 9

1) Diet that includes plenty of fresh fish, vegetables and low levels of meat and saturated fat
2) Lifestyle, getting people outdoors even in older years
3) A lot of stress-relieving cultural activities
4) Advanced health system

Question 10

What is progeria?

Answer 10

Progeria is a genetic disorder that leads to accelerated aging as it cannot repair DNA damage.

Question 11

What are the differences between Asian skin and Caucasian skin?

Answer 11

From Asian skin perspective:

1) Stratum corneum is thinner (-)
2) Stratum corneum has higher ceramide content (+)
3) Higher TEWL (-)
4) Lower NMF level in stratum corneum (-)
5) Less sign of aging and better elasticity recovery under UV (+)
6) No obvious wrinkle before 30, first seen deep wrinkle until 50 because of thicker dermis (+)
7) Lower age of onset of hyperpigmentation (+)
8) Higher acute skin irritation responses (-)

Question 12

What is the difference in the onset of wrinkle of Caucasians and Asians?

Answer 12

Chinese (Asian) women wrinkles become apparent 10 years later in average as compared to Caucasian and follows a non-linear progression
For Asians, pigmentation occurs before wrinkles as compared to Caucasians (reverse)
Most Chinese women show many facial pigmented spots at an early age

Question 13

What are the 3 areas that wrinkle are most prevalent?

Answer 13

1) Crow’s foot (around eyes)
2) Glabella (smooth part of the forehead
3) Perioral area (Tissues around the mouth)

Question 14

What causes pigmentation?

Answer 14

Aggregation of melanosomes

Question 15

Describe the aging process.

Answer 15

1) At 25 yrs old, skin barrier function declines
2) Moisture loss, pigmentation, freckle and melasma (hormone for pregnancy)
3) Protein breaks down, wrinkle and collagen disruption
4) Wrinkle deepens, unnatural complexion, menopause problems.

Question 16

Describe the anti-aging process.

Answer 16

1) Acne care, moisturization, UV protection, antioxidant
2) Brightening, even skin tone, anti-pigmentation - advanced whitening
3) Anti-wrinkle, collagen and elastin boost, DNA repair
4) Cell communication, hormonal balance

Question 17

What is the melanin epidermal unit responsible for?

Answer 17

Melanin synthesis and deposition

Question 18

Describe the process of pigmentation.

Answer 18

1) UV radiation or aging stimulates keratinocytes
2) Keratinocytes produce signaling factors that activates melanocytes
3) Melanogenesis and transfer of melanin to keratinocytes

Question 19

What is hormone-driven pigmentation called?

Answer 19

MELASMA

Question 20

What are the 2 main ways to prevent skin pigmentation?

Answer 20

1) Suppress the production of melanin

2) Reduce the accumulation, maturation, and transportation of melanin

Question 21

Describe the pathway of skin whitening or anti skin pigmentation.

Answer 21

UV protection, anti-oxidation -> Inhibition of the signal from keratinocytes to activate melanocytes -> Inhibit formation and maturation of melanosomes (Melan-A and Pmel17) -> Inhibit melanin-synthesizing enzymes (tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2) which are responsible for formation of brown-black pigment -> Inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes (No pigmentation @ surface)

Question 22

What is masstige?

Answer 22

Masstige refers to mass-produced, relatively inexpensive goods which are marketed as luxurious or prestigious.

Question 23

What are the core functions of masstige products?

Answer 23

1) Advanced time zone: hydration + anti-wrinkle

2) Resilience lift: firming + re-contour

Question 24

What are the core functions of prestige products?

Answer 24

1) RE-nutriv Replenishing Comfort: soothe + nutrition + anti-wrinkle
2) RE-nutriv Ultimate Lift: firming + lifting + repairing
3) RE-nutriv Radiant white age-renewal: anti pigmentation
4) RE-nutriv Recreation: recreate and renew

Question 25

What are the eco-conscious minds about ‘natural’?

Answer 25

• 81% consider natural & organic personal care (NOPC) products better for their health
• 45% of US Millennials look for organic claims when buying personal care products
• ‘Natural’ term can curb growing consumer insecurity over ingredient safety

Question 26

What are ‘superfoods’?

Answer 26

They are food ingredients that supply the skin with a healthy nutrient boost. ‘Damaged’ fruit offers enriched source of skin care actives. Not just the peel but also infected leaves with scab showed up to a 20% increase in phenolic (antioxidant) compounds. Also helps to lessen human footprint.

Question 27

What are the sources for the key ingredients for anti-aging products?

Answer 27

1) Botanical
2) Biotechnology
3) Marine ingredients
4) Peptides and amino acids
5) Vitamins, anti-oxidants, and minerals

Question 28

What are the 3 main vitamins associated with anti-aging products?

Answer 28

Vitamin C, E, and B

Question 29

What does collagen repair help with?

Answer 29

Helps to remove the excess fluids that gives us puffy eyes

Question 30

What is AA2G and what does it help with?

Answer 30

Ascorbic acid (Vit C) . It helps decrease TEWL and acts as a moisturizer. it is the core competency ingredient for anti pigmentation and skin tone.

Question 31

What is Niacinamide and what is the function?

Answer 31

Vitamin B3. There is a multi-functional chassis ingredient to scavenge ROS and improve skin health.
Niacinadmide aids in DNA repair and maintenance of stability. It helps to overcomes the energy crisi in severe DNA damage which would normally lead to cell death.
It is also an effective skin lightening compound as it inhibits melanin transfer
Reduces Fine lines and wrinkles

Question 32

Where is Vitamin K present?

Answer 32

It is present in hydrophilic matrices. It helps decrease leakiness and release the fluids

Question 33

What are the functions of Vitamins C & E in anti-aging?

Answer 33

Photo-aging occurs due to ROS in the skin and vitamin C and E reduces ROS in living skin and improve protection on skin.

Question 34

Why is vitamin C efficacy not obvious when taken as a supplement?

Answer 34

Vitamin C is very unstable and easily oxidized when exposed to air and sunlight
Solution: Stay-C 50

Question 35

What are the requirements for antioxidants and formulations?

Answer 35

• High antioxidative capacity and reactivity in order to neutralize the very short time living ROS in the skin
• Antioxidants should not be converted into reactive radical species
• Antioxidants should be sufficiently stable inside a cosmetic formulation
• The lipophilic or hydrophilic character of antioxidants determines the distribution inside the skin tissues and makes them more or less accessible to free radicals
• The cosmetic formulation may enhance or hinder the penetration ability of actives inside the skin.

Question 36

What is the antioxidant that is 20 times more potent than Vitamin E with an excellent long-term duration?

Answer 36

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol (Lipochroman)

Question 37

What are the functions of lipochroman?

Answer 37

1) Shield against oxidative stress

2) Anti-photo aging and protection against pollution

Question 38

What are the benefits of Antarcticine?

Answer 38

1) Helps the skin retain water, preventing skin dryness and increasing moisturization
2) Protects the skin from cold weather due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals
3) Stimulates skin cells’ growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds
4) Increases collagen, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles especially on the forehead and around the eyes

Question 39

How can muscle contraction be prevented?

Answer 39

By using argireline peptide.

• A hexapeptide that can be used daily
• modulates the formation of the SNARE complex by competing with SNAP-25 for a place in the complex
• Interferes with the formation and stability of the complex but does so safely

Question 40

What is argireline peptide a topical alternative to?

Answer 40

Botulinum toxins