Chapter 10 - Smelling, Odour Description and Classification Flashcards
What are the recommended dimensions of commonly used blotters?
13- 15 cm long and 1/2 to 1 cm wide
What is the Roudnitska’s recommendation for smelling blotters?
Blotters - 18 cm X 1 cm wide
Folded lengthwise - form a groove; bend less readily
Tapered - facilitate dipping; minimize the amount of material analyzed
Paper grade - 180g/cm2
What is the Jellinek’s recommendation for smelling blotters?
Blotters - at least 10 cm in length
For odour analysis - thinner blotters (allow recognition of different smelling phases)
For presentation of finished perfume - heavier, more absorbent paper (holds full composition better)
What are the key points for the perfume sample for alcoholic perfumery work?
- Dilute solutions
- Alcohol as solvent
- Allow alcohol to evaporate completely before smelling.
What are the key points for the perfume sample for work on other products?
Solvent/ diluent should be similar or identical to product base
What are the techniques to smelling perfume compounds in neat, undiluted form?
- Do not dip blotters too deeply
- Confine actual smelling to a few inhalations
What are the techniques to smelling perfumes?
- Should not sniff directly at a bottle as there is a risk of sniffing at finely powdered materials
- Olfactory fatigue
- Write down notes of odour impressions
- Have rest intervals
What are the techniques of containing a smell within a workplace?
- Well-ventilated with slight overpressure in working area (Bad smell cannot come in)
- Odourless, tempered air of natural humidity
- Quiet surroundings
Are perfumes of the same type around the world similar?
No, the constituents might be different and the odour produce might also differ, giving rise to different odour description.
What are the 2 terms that are generally used to describe odours?
(1) Odour types
(2) Odour characteristics
What are the 12 different odour types?
(1) Floral, (2) Woody, (3) Musky, (4) Balsamic, (5) Earthy, (6) Mossy, (7) Amber, (8) Fruity, (9) Herbaceous, (10) Green, (11) Minty, (12) Spicy
Give 2 examples of each odour type.
(1) Floral - Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
(2) Woody - Cedarwood, Sandalwood
(3) Musky - Musk, Civet
(4) Balsamic - Benzoin, Frankincense, Myrrh
(5) Earthy - Oakmoss, Patchouli
(6) Mossy - Oakmoss, Treemoss
(7) Amber - Ambergris
(8) Fruity - Pear, sweet orange (citrus)
(9) Herbaceous - Lavender, Rosemary
(10) Green - Galbanum, Violet leaf
(11) Minty - Peppemint, Spearmint
(12) Spicy - Cinnamon, Nutmeg
What are the 11 odour characteristics?
(1) Dry (2) Sweet (3) Light (4) Heavy (5) Fresh (6) Cool (7) Warm (8) Smooth (9) Rich (10) Soft (11) Sharp
Give 2 examples of each odour characteristic.
(1) Dry - Patchouli
(2) Sweet - Rose, Aniseed
(3) Light - Lavender, Lemon
(4) Heavy - Tuberose, Ylang Ylang
(5) Fresh - Lavender, Peppermint
(6) Cool - Menthol
(7) Warm - Jasmine, Rose
(8) Smooth - Sandalwood
(9) Rich - Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
(10) Soft - Sandalwood
(11) Sharp - Lemon
What are the 18 classes of Rimmel’s odour classification system and name what are the types belonging to each class.
(1) Almondy - Bitter almond
(2) Amber - Ambergris
(3) Anise - Aniseed
(4) Balsamic - Vanilla
(5) Camphoraceous - Camphor
(6) Caryophyllaceous - Clove
(7) Citrine - Lemon
(8) Fruity - Pear
(9) Jasmine - Jasmine
(10) Lavender - Lavender
(11) Mint - Peppermint
(12) Musky - Musk
(13) Orange flower - Neroli
(14) Rosaceous - Rose
(15) Sandal - Sandalwood
(16) Spicy - Cinnamon
(17) Tuberose - Tuberose
(18) Violet - Violet
What is Piesse’s arrangement of odours based on?
He compared odours to sound; Octaves, treble notes, bass notes and fragrance blend could be made by using harmonious chords
How is Poucher’s technique in preparing liquid odour samples?
- Dip smelling strip: 6 inch by 3/8 inch into liquid (depth: 1 inch)
- Sample weight: 80-100 mg
- Maximum stain length: 2.5 inch
How is Poucher’s technique in preparing solid odour samples?
- Prepared as 10% solution in diethyl phthalate
- Sample volume: 1 ml on smelling strip (6 inch by 1 inch)
What is Poucher’s odour classification system of perfume notes based on?
Fragrant materials listed in order of volatility (duration of evaporation by olfaction at laboratory temperature of 16 degrees. Group according to evaporation coefficients, ranging from 1 to 100.
Numerical values are based on the duration for complete evaporation of the aromatic substances from smelling strip
What are the 3 categories of Poucher’s odour classification?
(1) Top notes: 1 - 14 (Mainly citrus)
(2) Middle notes: 15 - 60 (Mainly floral)
(3) Basic notes: 61 - 100 (Mainly musky)
List in order the ‘Top notes’ based on Poucher’s odour classification.
(1) Acetophenone (2) Limes (3) Coriander (4) Lavender (5) Terpinyl acetate (6) Bergamot (7) Geraniol (8) Amyl salicylate (9) Peppermint (10) Linalyl Acetate (11) Sweet Orange (12) Methyl heptine carbonate (13) Paracresyl phenylacetate (14) Lemongrass
What are odour effects?
Essential oils and other aromatics have also been classified according to their perceived effect upon mood.
What are the 6 types of odour effects?
(1) Erogenic - ‘Animal quality, reminiscent of bodily odours
(2) Narcotic (Intoxicating) - Sweet or mellow colour
(3) Stimulating (Activating, Exciting) - Spicy, bitter or menthol odours
(4) Anti-erogenic (Refreshing) - Acidic, sharp or cooling
(5) Mental Stimulant
(6) Relaxing
Gives examples for each type of odour effects.
(1) Erogenic - Ambergris, Civet, Musk, Rose, Neroli, Vanilla
(2) Narcotic (Intoxicating) - Rose, Jasmine, Benzoin, Ylang Ylang
(3) Stimulating (Activating, Exciting) - Ginger, Peppermint, Eucalyptus
(4) Anti-erogenic (Refreshing) - Lemon, Lime, Lemongrass, Larvender, Pine
(5) Mental Stimulant - Pine, Rosemary, Basil, Peppermint, Coriander
(6) Relaxing - Chamomile, carnation, cedarwood, sandalwood
How can scents create ambience? Give examples
Rose - Softness, femininity, sensitiveness
Lily-of-the-valley - Fresh floral odour evoking spring, morning dew, youth, lightness, delicacy
Woody notes - Soft (scandalwood), warm (vetiver) effects
Balsamic and animal notes - Soothing, mysterious, sweet, sensual
Lemon scents - freshness, sun, beach, sub-tropical, comfort
