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PR2202 > Chapter 17 - Application of Fragrance - Technical Aspects > Flashcards

Chapter 17 - Application of Fragrance - Technical Aspects Flashcards

1
Q

What is the difference in the use of scent between fine fragrance with soaps, antiperspirants and shampoo?

A

Scent is the primary function of fine fragrances.

Scents for other application are secondary functions

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2
Q

What are the 4 main technical aspects to consider for formulating a fragrance?

A

(1) Odour
(2) Solubility
(3) Stability
(4) Compatibility between fragrance and product ingredients

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3
Q

What is the difference between denatured ethanol B (DEB) and ethanol?

A

Denatured, cheaper tax-free. (Gives a bitter taste so people do not drink)

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4
Q

What is the use of PPG-20 methyl glucose ether?

A

Moisurizing agent with fixative properties

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5
Q

What is the use of Benzophenone-2?

A

UV absorber/filter

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6
Q

How can we tell the strength of the product?

A

Alcohol content / alcohol + water content

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7
Q

What is the use of titanium dioxide?

A

Give white colour

Make the product opaque

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8
Q

What are the possible formulations issues/concerns with soap?

A

Colour of soap:
- Match colour to fragrance type
Discolouration in white soaps:
- Too much vanillin (use small concentrated amounts or non-discolouring synthetics)
- Chemical reaction due to high pH of soap
- Reaction accelerated by light
Stability testing

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9
Q

Describe what are aerosol antiperspirants and the consitituents of it?

A

Propellant gas:
- Propane-butane blend
Antiperspirant active:
- Powder in volatile silicone fluid suspension (Require special valve & actuator system)
Fragrance/perfume:
- Must be stable in aerosol antiperspirant formulation

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10
Q

What are the key ingredients in the formula for a dry aerosol antiperspirant and what are their uses?

A
  • Aluminium chlorhydrate powder: Antiperspirant active - suitable particle size distribution for effective dispensing
  • Bentonite: Thickener to help ensure particle are kept in suspension
  • Volatile silicone fluid (Cyclomethicone): Sufficiently volatile to evaporate from skin; soluble in propellant blend
  • Isopropyl myristate: Skin conditioning agent (Emollient)
  • Fragrance: Stable in antiperspirant formulation (usually acidic)
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11
Q

What are the possible formulations issues/concerns with aerosol antiperspirants?

A
  • Can cause some fragrance ingredients to undergo chemical reactions.
  • Trace of metal ions in aerosol product can discolour perfume
  • Odour balance of fragrance may be altered (different from neat fragrance oil); biased towards top notes (volatile)
  • Potential of corrosion (Finished product in production specification cans - storage testing)
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12
Q

What are the common ingredients found in frequently-used shampoos?

A

1) Sodium lauryl ether sulfate - high foaming anionic detergent
2) Cocamidopropylbetaine - Mild amphoteric betaine detergent (Lower irritation potential of SLES)
3) Panthenol - Provitamin B5 (to thicken and help repair damaged hair)
4) Sodium chloride - Thicken detergent system
5) Glycol distearate & laureth-4 & Cocamidopropylbetaine - Cold-mix opacifying concentrate for attractive, white, pearly look.

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13
Q

What are the possible formulation issues with shampoos?

A

1) Fragrance ingredients - may cause change in shampoo viscosity
2) Chemical reaction between fragrance ingredients and actives in shampoos - discolouration or off-odor

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14
Q

What is the use of stability testing and how is it conducted?

A

1) Accelerated test protocols
- Predict likely shelf-life (minimum 2 years)
- Identify potential problems
- 12 months at 20 degrees; 6 months at 30 degrees (Arrhenius rate equation - 10 degree, reaction doubles)

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15
Q

What are the minimum standards for stability testing?

A
  • Generally tested at (0-4, 20 or 25, 37 degrees for 12 weeks)
  • Additional testing at 45-50 degrees (not for aerosol)
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16
Q

What is the use of humidity testing and how is it conducted?

A

1) Testing in high humidity conditions for products to be packaged in permeable materials such as paper or plastic
- Test conditions (37 degrees at 70% and 40 degrees at 80%)

17
Q

What is the use of light testing and how is it conducted?

A

1) Use of UV cabinets (samples put under UV light from Xenon arc lamps)
- Exposure to 6h of 100W lamp to detect changes likely to take place in around 3 months of daylight testing; the disadvantage is the UV cabinet can become quite hot which might not give a true representation of normal daylight.
2) Light stress chambers:
- Temperature can be controlled fully
- Different types of lights can be used.

18
Q

When are samples usually assessed for stability testing and what are tested?

A
  • 12 weeks
    (Usually also after 4 or 6 weeks period)
  • Odour: test for odour intensity and perfume character
  • Physical appearance: evaluated for discolouration, separation, precipitation, viscosity change
19
Q

What are the scales for assessing perfume character and odour intensity?

A 
Perfume character:
- (A): No change, excellent
- (B): Very slight modification
- (C): Some modification but acceptable
- (D): Modified, unsatisifactory
- (E): Unrecognisable
Odour intensity:
- (1): No change
- (2) Slight weakening
- (3) Some loss of impact but acceptable
- (4) Weak, unsatisfactory 
- (5) Odourless or extremely weak
20
Q

What are the standard test conditions (temperature) and duration of testing of odour testing?

A
  • 0 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 20 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 37 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 50 degrees for 4 weeks (Not for aerosol)
21
Q

What are the standard test conditions (temperature) and duration of testing of physical appearance testing?

A
  • 0 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 20 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 37 degrees for 12 weeks
  • 50 degrees for 4 weeks
  • UV for 6 hours (Not for aerosol)
22
Q

What are the scales for assessing physical appearance?

A

Physical appearance:

  • (A): No change
  • (B): Slight change
  • (C): Change but acceptable
  • (D): Unacceptable change, e.g discoloration, separation, viscosity change etc.
23
Q

What are some general tips to store cosmetic products?

A
  • Keep away from direct light sources and heat
  • Store in a cool dry place
  • Avoid allowing the product to come into contact with air. Close cap firmly after use
  • If already open, best to use up within recommended period

PR2202 (19 decks)

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