Chapter 16 - Perfume Creation: Styles in Perfumery; Examples of Perfumed Products

Question 1

What are toilet waters typically prepared with?

Answer 1

1) Commonly prepared with weak alcohol

2) Dilutent: rose or orange flower water

Question 2

How are hungary water, larvender water and Eau de Cologne normally prepared?

Answer 2

Relatively simple blend of distilled and expressed oils diluted in alcohol + fixatives

Question 3

What is unique about ‘Hungary water’?

Answer 3

First alcoholic perfume

Question 4

What are the 2 meanings of ‘Eau de Cologne’?

Answer 4

(1) Citrus, herbaceous notes (Refreshing)

(2) Perfume for skin (3-5%) diluted in 80-90% alcohol

Question 5

In the early 20th century, what type of perfume was popular and what style does the perfume resemble?

Answer 5

• Large part (Fresh naturals, bergamot and lemon), essentials oils and animal & balsamic fixatives
• Mainly retain the traditional structure of earlier perfumes

Question 6

How did the perfumery style change in the mid 20th century, pertaining to Canoe(1935), Ma Griffe(1944), L’Air du Temps (1948) and Cabochard (1958)?

Answer 6

• Increased use of synthetics (aliphatic aldehydes & several floral notes)
• Natural materials as modifying notes and to give richness
• Perfume have specially chosen accords structured around base, middle and top notes.
• Need to see how perfume evolved over time (evaporation - giving a 3D quality)

Question 7

Who invented the technique of structuring perfume accords to the different accords?

Answer 7

Jean Carles

Question 8

Name one of the most successful underlying perfumery accord.

Answer 8

L’Air du Temps (Nina Ricci)

Question 9

What is trickle down fragrance?

Answer 9

Making use of the fragrance sold at the department store counters (nostalgic effect)

Question 10

Why can a perfume smell unpleasant initially but become pleasant to the user?

Answer 10

Evaporation of the high volatility top notes.

We can use middle notes to musk/ cover up the smelly top notes

Question 11

What changes were made to L’Air du Temps (1948)?

Answer 11

Changed to Fidji (1966) - Changed to more synthetic compounds

Question 12

What is the difference between scent from fine fragrances and scents from products with other application?

Answer 12

• Fine fragrance: Smell is the primary function

- Other application: Smell is not the primary function (allows you to feel that is reminiscent to something)

Question 13

Who popularize the idea of monolithic perfume?

Answer 13

Sophia Grojsman

Question 14

What are some examples of monolithic perfumes?

Answer 14

• Eternity (1988)
• Tresor (1990)
• Spellbound (1991)
• Dune (1991)
• Casmir (1991)
• Amarige (1991)

Question 15

What are the pros and cons of monolithic perfumes?

Answer 15

Pros
- Character of the perfume is immediate (suited for more fast pace society)
- Odour remains more or less unchanged (upon first contact till several hours of wearing)
Cons - Lacking in aesthetic quality

Question 16

What is unique about Tresor perfume?

Answer 16

• Simple accord of 4 materials making 80% of the formula

- Usually traditional fresh top note not present, replaced by intensely powerful materials in trace quantities

Question 17

What are the 2 constituents in the formulation of skin perfumes?

Answer 17

1) Perfume blend

2) Diluent (mainly alcohol)

Question 18

What are the 3 types of skin perfumes and what are the effects of each?

Answer 18

(1) Alcohol-based perfumes
- Drying effect on skin
- Water needed to be added
(2) Perfume oils
- Diluents (Jojoba oil, Coconut oil)
- Impart sensuous quality and lingering effect
(3) Solid perfumes
- Diluents: Beeswax (5g) + jojoba oil (15mL)
- Fragrance blend
- Solid form: easier to carry around

Question 19

Describe the perfume strength of the four products - (1) Parfum, (2) Eau de parfum, (3) Eau de toilette, (4) Eau de cologne.

Answer 19

(1) Parfum: 15-30% fragrance, 96-99% alcohol in solvent
(2) Eau de parfum: 8-15% fragrance, 80-90% alcohol in solvent
(3) Eau de toilette: 4-8% fragrance, ~80% alcohol in solvent
(2) Eau de cologne: 3-5% fragrance, ~70% alcohol in solvent

Question 20

Describe the appropriate application of the four products - (1) Parfum, (2) Eau de parfum, (3) Eau de toilette, (4) Eau de cologne.

Answer 20

Parfum, roll-on pulse point perfume oils & solid perfume:
- Applied to pulse point (sides of the neck, insides of the wrists, elbow creases)
Eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne:
- Can be sprated over body

Question 21

What is the ‘scent circle’ of a perfume?

Answer 21

About arm’s length from one’s body

Question 22

What are the essential components of aftershave lotions?

Answer 22

Cider vinegar - restore pH to prevent acne
Dilute alcohol - Sensitive
Essential oil blends

Question 23

What are the instructions for use for aftershave lotions?

Answer 23

Shake before use, does not dissolve well in water

Question 24

What is the difference between room scent and scent for skins?

Answer 24

Room scents always smell ‘true’ (No mixing of sweat)