Chapter 7 - Eye Cosmetics and Problematic Ingredients Flashcards
What kind of expression can eyes convey?
- Inner thoughts
- Emotions
Describe the delicate design of the eyelid.
The eyelid has to be thin enough to sustain rapid movements and also strong enough to protect the tender eyes
What problems with the eye surfaces with aging?
1) Redundant upper eyelid tissue (Collagen loses it structure)
2) Lower eyelid bags (Deposition of fluid) - need vitamin to reabsorb the fluids
What are the most popular pressed eye shadows formulations?
1) Talc (binder)
2) Zinc/magnesium stearate (binder)
3) Kaolin (Improve oil absorption)
According to FDC, what pigments are approved to be used in eye shadow formulations in the US?
1) Approved purified pigments
2) Natural colors
3) Inorganic pigments
Name examples of the pigments that are approved to be used in eye shadow formulations in the US?
1) Titanium dioxide (TiO2) - pastel eye shadow to improve coverage
2) Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) and fish scale essence - pearly shine
3) Copper, aluminium, gold or silver - metallic finish
How are water-resistant eye shadows labelled?
“Creamy” or “enriched” as they have a higher content of oily binder
What are 2 examples of oily binder?
1) Beewax
2) Lanolin
What is the problem with the application of water-resistant eye shadow and how can it be resolved?
Problem: Short wearing time due to their tendency to migrate into the eyelid folds
Solution: Use eye shadow setting creams to provide an adherent base over which the pigmented eye shadow can be applied.
If the person is hypoteloric, what suggestion can you give to make the eyes more well-proportioned?
Use colors up and out from the center to corners of the eyelid
If the person is hyperteloric, what suggestion can you give to make the eyes more well-proportioned?
Place color from the inner canthus to the central eyelid
If the person’s eyes are too small, what suggestion can you give to make the eyes look bigger?
Apply colored shadow along the lateral orbital ridge and eyebrow with a small amount placed beneath the lateral lower lash line.
What are eyelashes?
They are like hairs, comprising of a mixture of dead cells that have been keratinized (95%), binding melanin granules and small amounts of water
How does the composition of eyelash differ from scalp hair?
Eyelashes have slower growth (hence, shorter) and they typically last for 3 months before falling out.
What is the role of eyelashes?
Protect the eyes from debris and signal the eyelid to reflexively close the eye when something is too close to the eye
What is mascara?
Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyelashes. It may darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes.
What does mascara usually contain?
Most contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives.
What was the original mascara?
Kohl, based on antimony
Where are the colorants selected from and why?
Colorants must be selected from vegetable colors, or inorganic pigments as coal tar colors are prohibited by the FDC Act.
What are the pigments that are used to produce ‘black’, ‘navy’ and ‘brown’ mascara respectively?
Iron oxide - Black
Ultramarine blue - Navy
Amber - Brown
What are the precautions when using mascara?
Discard the mascara tube after 3 months because of Pseudomonas aeruginosa and avoid sharing mascara.
What are the 3 categories of liquid mascara?
1) Water-based
2) Solvent-based
3) Water/solvent hybrid
What are water-based mascaras and what are the problems associated with it?
- Oil in water emulsion that contains beewax (binder) in addition to pigments dissolved in water.
- Problem: smudges with perspiration and tearing and need preservatives. Least sensitizing of the mascaras
What are solvent-based mascaras and what are the problems associated with it?
- Mascaras with petroleum distillates, to which pigments and waxes are added to make them water resistant
- Performs well with perspiration but removal requires an oil-based lotion or cream.
- Preservatives present but less microbial contamination since petroleum is anti-bacterial.
- Problem: eye irritant and product dries up quickly
What are hybrid mascaras?
- Either an oil- in water or water in oil emulsion.
- Idea is to create a product that is less sensitizing/ irritating like the water-based mascara but also provides water resistant properties
What is the role of eyeliners?
To define the margins of the eyes
What is the difference between marking-pens and pencil eyeliners?
- Marking-pens: Latex-based liquid eyeliners which contain water, cellulose gum, thickeners (magnesium aluminum silicate) and styrene-butadiene latex.
- Pencil eyeliners: Contain natural and synthetic waxes combined with pigments, mineral oils and lanolin derivatives that are extruded into rods encased in wood. (Advantageous as resharpening decreases contamination), idea for beginners
What is eyeliner tattooing?
It involves the intradermal insertion of black pigment on or outside of the upper and lower eyelash line
What event allowed FDA to be granted the right to regulate cosmetics in 1938?
The use of a permanent dye from the product Lash Lure contained para-phenylenediamine (PPD) which caused blindness in Mrs Brown and 15 other women as well as a death of another, spurring the need for regulation.
What are the precautionary measures when using eyelash dyes?
Not to be used for more than every three weeks since they are extremely irritating to the eye.
What are artificial eyelashes?
They are attached to existing lashes on the upper or lower eyelids with a clear or pigmented methacrylate based glue (known sensitizer). They can be removed with a product for adhesives.
What are the trends related to eyebrow cosmetics?
1) Almost completely plucked - 1950s
2) Natural look - the 1960s
3) Microblading - 21st century
What are pencils and sealers used for artificial eyebrows?
Pencils to darken
Sealers to keep the shape
What are the safety considerations for eye products?
12% of cosmetic reactions occur on the eyelid
1/3 to eye make up use.
Testing is therefore recommended for eye cosmetics, placed at the corner of the eye for 5 consecutive nights and evaluated for allergic or irritant effects.
How many % of the ingredients have not been fully tested for human safety?
89%
What are the 4 min problematic classes of ingredients in terms of health safety?
1) Preservatives
2) Color additives
3) Biological additives
4) Herbal additives
What is the typical breakdown of a product’s ingredient list?
- 1/3 of ingredients constitute 90-95%
- second 1/3 of ingredients constitute 5-8%
- final 1/3 of ingredients constitute 1-3%
What is MSDS?
Material Safety Data Sheet
What is the common concern about using preservatives?
It is accused of causing breast cancer or environmental damage and they often reported as unsafe to human use
What are preservatives necessary in every cosmetics?
It is required to prevent the lipids in most formulations from rapidly oxidizing rendering the cream rancid or bacterial contamination would render the product unsafe
Additionally, there are present in small concentrations
1) Spoilage prevention before usage
2) Contamination prevention after purchase
What is the downside of using preservatives?
There is no ideal preservative and they are the most common allergenic group of substances beyond fragrances.
What are the 6 worst kinds of preservatives?
1) Parabens
2) Triclosan
3) Nitrosamines
4) Formaldehyde
5) 1,4-dioxane
6) Phthalates
Why are parabens used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- They are one of the most popular preservatives but are sometimes replaced by Kathon CG although Kathon CG is a much greater cause of skin sensitization.
- Parabens are most effective against gram positive bacteria and fungi and they are used in combination with phenoxyethanol to provide better gram negative coverage
- They are associated with breast cancer
Why are triclosan used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- Antibacterial and antifungal, usually found in toothpaste, soaps, detergents, toys and surgical cleaning treatments
- They cause endocrine disruption, allergies and immunotoxicity, bioaccumulation, organ system toxicity and irritation
- Prohibited the sales in September 2016 and effective from September 2017
Why are amines used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- Seem safe in rinse-off products when formulated to be non-irritating
- Should not be used in cosmetic in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed
- Majority of the salts function as surfactants & preservatives and pH adjusters
Why are formaldehyde used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- Used as a cosmetic biocide, a denaturant, and a preservative
- Considered a human carcinogen, can cause asthma, headaches, eye irritation, allergies and respiratory irritation; linked to leukemia.
- Banned in Japan and Sweden
Why are 1,4-Dioxane used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- Found in cosmetics as a result of ethoxylation (a method to reduce the risk of skin irritation to harsh petroleum-based ingredients
- Banned in Canada
Why are phthalates used as preservatives and what are the concerns?
- Mainly used as plasticizers
- Often used as ingredients in fragrances (Diethyphthalate (DEP) or dibutylphthalate (DBP))
- Banned in cosmetics sold in the EU
What are plasticizers?
Substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity, e.g nail polish
What other forms of preservatives are available other than the addition of chemical ingredients?
1) Packaging: oxygen-free dispenser. Absence of oxygen extends the duration of oxygen sensitive ingredients and inhibits an ideal environment for microorganisms’ growth
2) Packaging: one-way valve (inside to outside only)
3) Fragrances and natural preservatives (dual role)
What is one key information you should check when adding preservatives to a formulation? List one example.
Ensure the formulation does not inactivate the preservative.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (used in sunscreens) adsorb preservatives, thus lowering the effective concentration
What are natural preservatives?
Essential oils and fragrances with antimicrobial capabilities
What is the disclaimer for preservative-free products?
They may actually incorporate one of the aromatic preservatives.
How are the >100 permitted certified colors classified?
1) FD&C colorants - permitted for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics
2) D&C colorants - permitted for use in drugs and cosmetics
3) External D&C colorants - permitted for use in externally applied drugs and cosmetics (exclusion of lips and parts covered by mucous membranes)
What are the 2 categories of color additives?
1) Soluble - Impart color only when in solution (water, alcohol or oil)
2) Insoluble - organic, such as pigments and inorganic, such as oxides and metals
What is the colorant that had shown to promote ache growth?
D&C Red dyes, comedogenic (promoter of ache lesion)
What does ‘biological additives’ mean?
It includes substances that are animal-derived
What are examples of biological additives?
1) Collagen - Good for cutaneous and subcutaneous injection for wrinkles (Can absorb 30X its weight in water)
2) Elastin - Helps skin regain original configuration after stretching or deformation (Less water binding capacity than collagen)
3) Hyaluronic acid - Used as a filler for injection (NASHA, very costly)
4) Keratin - deposit a thin film on hair and nails (allow longer curl retention); increase nail hardness
5) Placenta - mixture of proteins and enzymes that enhance blood circulation and accelerate cellular metabolism
6) Amniotic fluid - moisturizer and epidermal growth enhancer
7) Egg extract - Used in shampoos, face masks, hair conditioner and moisturizers
8) Blood derivatives - Stimulates oxygen absorption, ‘revitalizing’ creams; after-shaving products to increase epidermal cell renew rate
Why are herbal additives more popular than biological additives?
- Less problematic although many herbals are contaminated with herbicides and heavy metals.
- Impart a pleasing smell and color to the cosmetic
- Usually these extracts are formulated in a 3-10% concentration
What are 3 examples of herbal additives?
1) ALOE: healing burns and enhancing skin repair by boosting the immune system
2) Avocado, sesame and tea tree oil: Used in moisturizers and emollients (tea tree oil shown to cause contact dermatitis)
3) Allantoin 7 alpha-bisabolol: chamomile extract, used for sensitive skin due to anti-inflammatory properties
Why did vitamin additives gain recognition?
Because beta-carotene, niacinamide, vitamin C and vitamin E act as antioxidants (concerns on exceeding optimal amounts)
What are examples of vitamin additives?
1) Vitamin C - hydrophilic, protects from UV-B and UV-A induced phototoxic reaction when applied topically. Not confirmed the use as an antioxidant when taken as a supplement.
2) Vitamin E - Lipid soluble, protects against UVB, conferring a SPF of 3. Able to partially absorb light and function as a free radical quenching antioxidant
3) Carotenoids & niacinadmide - beta-carotene. Strong antioxidants and whitening (niacinadmide)
