Chapter 11.1 - Raw materials for Perfumery - Preview Flashcards
How is ambergris obtained?
Sperm whale produces Ambreine in its intestinal tract and it is excreted into the sea. Upon exposure to seawater, air and sunlight, degradation occurs, forming Ambergris. Ambergris is the extracted with alcohol.
What happens when fresh ambergris is exposed to air?
Fresh - Black, greasy and malodorous
Exposure to air - Hardens, turn grey and develops a pleasant aroma.
What is the smell of ambergris and what can it be used for?
Exotic, woody, incense-like, earthy, camphoraceous, tobacco-like, musk-like odour, smells of the ocean.
It is also used as a fixative for expensive perfumes.
What are ambergris nature-identical materials?
- Can be prepared from Sclareol (found in Clary sage)
- Tradenames: Amberlyn, Ambrox, Ambroxan
What are synthetic ambergris substitutes?
Karanal
How is musk obtained and what is the main component of musk?
- From exocrine odour glands of musk deer
- Muscone
What is the difference between fresh and dried musk?
Fresh - Oily brown liquid
Dried - Grainy powder
What is the smell of musk and what can it be used for?
- Animalic character with pyridinic and urinaceous odour
- Fixative properties
What are the 4 synthetic musk materials?
- Nitromusks
- Polycyclic musks
- Macrocyclic musks
- Alicyclic musks
When was the 1st nitromusks discovered and what are examples of nitromusks?
- Musk Baur (By Baur 1888)
- Examples: Musk Xylene and Musk Ketone
What are some problems relating to nitromusks?
- Preparation method: Can be hazardous
- Nitromusks can be phototoxic.
When were polycyclic musks first discovered?
1950s
What are 2 examples of polycyclic musks?
Tonalide, Galaxolide
What are the concerns with using polycyclic musks?
- Non-degradeable and used widely
- Bioaccumulation in the environment
What are examples of macrocyclic musks?
- Muscone
- Cyclopentadecanolide
- Ethylene brassylate
- Habanolide
