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PR2202 > Chapter 12 - Raw Materials for Perfumery > Flashcards

Chapter 12 - Raw Materials for Perfumery Flashcards

1
Q

What are the 3 types of raw materials for perfumery?

A

(1) Naturally occurring - Plant/animal origin
(2) Nature-identical - Same structure as that of the natural substance but made by chemical means
(3) Man-made - Not found in nature

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2
Q

Describe the ‘Plant origin’ of raw materials for perfumery.

A
  • Immense reservoir of fragrance raw materials
  • Isolated by various extraction methods from whole plant to specific parts.
  • Some plants yield different products from different plant parts
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3
Q

What are the various sources of plant raw materials?

A

(1) Flowers
(2) Leaves
(3) Fruit- peel/rind
(4) Seed
(5) Root
(6) Bark
(7) Wood
(8) Lichen
(9) Resin

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4
Q

Describe the ‘Animal origin’ of raw materials for perfumery.

A

Animal secretions, glands and other organs with high odoriferous potency have been used for centuries as pharmaceutical ingredients

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5
Q

What are examples of ‘animal origin’ raw material and its sources?

A

(1) Ambergris - Sperm whale
(2) Castoreum - Canadian beaver
(3) Civet - Civet cat
(4) Musk - Musk deer

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6
Q

What are the 5 extraction techniques?

A

(1) Distillation
(2) Expression
(3) Enfleurage
(4) Solvent extraction
(5) CO2 extraction

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7
Q

What are the perfumery products obtained from extraction?

A

(1) Essential oils
(2) Floral waters
(3) Pomades
(4) Concretes
(5) Resinoids
(6) Absolutes
(7) CO2 extract

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8
Q

What are essential oils and how are they obtained?

A
  • Essential oils are volatile - unlike fixed/fatty oils
  • Mainly obtained by steam distillation
  • Some essential oils are obtained by expression or cold pressing (citrus oils)
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9
Q

What are the main components of steam distillation?

A
  • Water inlet
  • Essential oil
  • Condenser
  • Still
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10
Q

At the end of steam distillation, how do we know if the essential oil is above or below the water?

A

Check the relative density.

  • RD > 1 = Below
  • RD < 1 = Above
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11
Q

How are floral waters obtained?

A
  • By-product of steam distillation

- For some oils (rose and orange flower oils), some of its constituents are slightly soluble in water = Floral water

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12
Q

What are 2 important examples of floral waters used in perfumery?

A

(1) Rose water

(2) Orange flower water

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13
Q

What is ‘Expression/Cold pressing’ used for?

A
  • For citrus fruits (lemon, orange, bergamot)

- Converting the peel of citrus fruit to essential oil

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14
Q

Describe the process of ‘Expression/Cold pressing’.

A

1) Peel placed between mechanical crusher
2) Oil squeezed out
3) Resultant liquid allowed to settle, then oil pressed.

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15
Q

What is ‘Enfleurage’?

A
  • Old processing technique used in South of France
  • Makes use of cold, purified fat
  • Mainly for some flower varieties that are fragile (Jasmine & tuberose)
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16
Q

Why is ‘Enfleurage’ rarely used nowadays?

A
  • High cost

- Labour intensive procedure

17
Q

Describe the process of ‘Enfleurage’.

A

1) Glass plates covered with thin layer of fat (75% lard and 25% tallow)
2) Plates place in wooden frames - ‘chassis’, covered with petals and stacked in piles
3) Petals removed and replaced by fresh one after, 24 hours (jasmine) and 2-3 days (tuberose)
4) Process repeated till fat is saturated or harvest is over
5) Scent-saturated fats melted, filtered.
6) On cooling, pomade formed.

18
Q

What are pomades?

A

Combination of flower oil, waxes and fats obtained by enfleurage.

19
Q

Describe the further process needed after obtaining pomade from enfleurage.

A

Extraction with alcohol and subsequent removal of alcohol is need to obtain ‘absolutes’ from ‘pomade’.

20
Q

What is ‘Solvent extraction’?

A
  • Common and effective method
  • Uses volatile solvents, e.g petroleum ether, hexane at low temperature
  • Fragrant oil extracted, followed by removal of solvent to yield ‘concrete’ or ‘resinoid’.
21
Q

How can ‘concrete’ be converted to ‘absolute’?

A

Through extraction with alcohol and subsequent removal of alcohol

22
Q

What are ‘concretes’?

A
  • Waxy masses remaining after solvent extraction of various plant parts (Fresh flowers)
  • Waxes and colouring matter also extracted along with the fragrant plant oils (Need to remove)
23
Q

What are ‘resinoids’?

A
  • Containing resinous materials, often viscous, sticky and resiny in nature
  • Obtained by solvent extraction from resins (solid or semi-solid plant secretions)
24
Q

What are absolutes and where are they obtained from?

A
  • Highly concentrated fragrance materials generally obtained through alcohol extraction from concretes (also from pomades from enfleurage)
  • Often expensive with low overall production yields.
25
Q

Describe the process of absolute production.

A

1) Homogenization of concrete in alcohol.
2) Cooling of mixture to ~15 degrees
3) Cold filtration to remove precipitated waxes and colouring matter
4) Concentration of filtrate by distilling off the alcohol

26
Q

Describe the technique of carbon dioxide extraction?

A
  • Carbon dixodie liquefies under pressure (good solvent properties with low boiling point)
  • Extraction at fairly low temperatures and high pressure
  • Considerably high cost but CO2 can be easily removed
  • Product: ‘More true to the original scent’ of the raw material
27
Q

Describe the raw materials used and the process for extraction of Galbanum.

A
  • Gum exudes from roots of large herb native to Middle East and Western Asia.
  • Extraction methods: (1) Solvent extraction - resinoid, (2) Steam distillation - essential oil
28
Q

What are the products produced from the 2 different extraction techniques of Galbanum?

A

(1) Resinoid
- Rich, green, woody, balsamic scent.
- Functions as base note
(2) Essential oil
- Green-woody scent and soft balsamic undertone
- Function as top note

29
Q

What plant parts are primarily produced by what extraction methods?

A
  • Flowers: Steam distillation, Solvent extraction
  • Leaves & Twigs: Steam distillation
  • Peel/Rind: Expression/Cold pressing (citrus)
30
Q

How has the use of raw materials changed over time?

A
  • Early part of 19th century: Advances in development of extraction methods for natural products
  • Mid to end of 19th century AD: Advances in synthetic organic chemistry = synthetic compounds
31
Q

What is the definition of ‘Nature-identical’?

A

A nature-identical has the same structure as that of a substance which occurs in nature but is made by chemical means

32
Q

What is the definition of ‘Man-made’ perfumes?

A

(1) Production of analogues - Chemical ingredients that are close in structure but not identical to a substance which occurs in nature.
(2) Creation of new ingredients not found in nature (Calone)

33
Q

Name an example of Man-made perfume.

A

Methyl dihydrojasmonate/Hedione, an analogue of methyl jasmonate.
- Has a blending, fixing and enhancing effects on other ingredients

34
Q

Describe the process of headspace technology/analysis.

A
  • Headspace around/above live flower
  • Scent molecules in headspace surrounding flower captured
  • Analysis by GC/MS -> Give smell ‘fingerprint’ of the scent in the air.
  • Useful for reproducing scent of live flower
35
Q

What is ScentTrek technology and what does it do?

A
  • For monitoring plant biorhythm
    Process:
  • Portable computer controlled system
  • Scent captured at various times throughout day and night
  • Scent analysis at peak olfactive moment (Maximum scent emission): For scent recreation
36
Q

What are the advantages of synthetics?

A

(1) Price:
- Ensure reasonable price of reliable raw materials with consistent quality (unaffected by market fluctuations.
(2) Availability:
- Production of natural ingredients may not be sufficient. Also concerns over use of raw materials of animal origin.
(3) Creative freedom:
- Much wider range of perfumery materials available to perfumers
(4) Extend use to perfume other product lines
- Some natural ingredients may be prone to degradation.
- High intensity, little used but smell good enough
- Stability in other products

PR2202 (19 decks)

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