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PR2202 > Chapter 8 - Nail Cosmetics > Flashcards

Chapter 8 - Nail Cosmetics Flashcards

1
Q

What do we have nails?

A

1) Eating in ancient times
2) Self-protection against predators
3) Protection for the highly innervated tissues of the fingerprints
4) Mini-canvas for artistic, but also clues for diseases

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2
Q

What are the functions of nails?

A

1) Important aesthetic role
2) Means of determining social status
3) Women value not too-short nails
4) Protect the tips of fingers and toes
5) Facilitate manipulation of small objects
6) Form of de-stress
7) Use for scratching

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3
Q

What are the 3 main components of the nail?

A

1) Nail plate
2) Nail matrix
3) Nail bed and the grooves surrounding it

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4
Q

Describe the nail plate.

A
  • Visible part of the nail on fingers and toes
  • 3 layers: ventral nail, intermediate hard keratin layer, and external dorsal nail (inner to outer layer)
  • Nail plate is the hard part of the nail, made of translucent keratin protein. Several layers of dead, compacted cells cause the nail to be strong but flexible
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5
Q

Describe the nail bed.

A
  • Skin beneath the nail plate
  • Supplies water to the nail
  • Ensure nail grows in a fixed direction
  • Low water content at free margin
  • Made of 2 tissues: (1) deeper dermis (living tissues which include capillaries and glands) and (2) epidermis (layer beneath the nail plate which moves toward the finger top with the plate) where the epidermis is attached to dermis by tiny longitudinal ‘grooves’.
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6
Q

What is the medical term used to describe longitudinal ridges on the nails?

A

Onychorrhexis

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7
Q

What are the causes of longitudinal ridges on the nail plate?

A

1) Aging
2) Nail injury
3) Underlying medical conditions

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8
Q

What are Beau’s lines and what are they associated with?

A

They are horizontal or transverse depressions in the nail. Caused by diseases that affect the entire body:

1) Malnutrition
2) Chemotherapeutic drugs
3) Heart attack
4) Severe infections
5) Poorly controlled diabetes

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9
Q

What information does Beau’s line tell us?

A

The number of Beau’s lines are indicative of the number of times the person is sick in the last 6 months

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10
Q

How does low dietary protein intake affect nails?

A

May cause anemia and the resultant reduced haemoglobin in the blood filling the capillaries ultimately result in white nail beds when the haemoglobin is low

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11
Q

How does iron, vitamin, and calcium deficiency affect nails?

A

Iron deficiency - ‘spoon nails’; usually is convex but spoon is concave
Vitamin deficiency - brittle, dry and darkened nails
Calcium deficiency - fragile nails but NOT with white spots

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12
Q

What are the white spots on nails indicative of?

A

They are indicative of nail damage from shock.

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13
Q

Describe the nail matrix.

A
  • Hidden part of the nail unit
  • Contains melanocytes that produce small amount of melanin
  • Responsible for producing cells that become the nail plate (Will continue to grow as long as it receives nutrition and remains in a healthy condition)
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14
Q

What is nail lunala?

A
  • Part of the nail matrix
  • Whitish, half-moon shape at the base/ root of the nail, usually most pronounced on the thumb
  • Not fully keratinized, not in complete contact with nail bed
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15
Q

What is nail cuticle?

A
  • Tissue that overlaps the nail plate and rims the base of the nail
  • Protects the formed nail (Protects matrix when the matrix grows)
  • If missing, nail will show abnormalities
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16
Q

What is nail fold?

A
  • The walls/folds of skin that frame and support the nail
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17
Q

What is the composition of the nail?

A
  • Modified epidermal cells, like hair
  • Composed of mainly hard keratin, due to absence of keratohyaline granules, causing strong disulfide bonds
  • Calcium content very low : <0.2%
  • Little water: <20%
  • Very little fatty materials (mainly cholesterol inside); <5%
  • Like hair, absorbs and loses water easily, swelling in volume
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18
Q

How is blood and nerve supply to the nails unique?

A

It must be supplied among hard surfaces (nail plate & underneath bone)
Nerve supply is an extension from the nerves in the fingers

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19
Q

Describe the nail physiology (growth).

A

1) Grows from matrix
2) Growth rate varies with individuals, faster in children and young people and slower in older people.
3) Growth rate in fingernails are faster than toenails
4) Seasonal growth difference with faster growth in summer and slower growth in winter
5) Requires 4-6 months for fingers and 12-18 months for toenails for complete regeneration after avulsion

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20
Q

What impairs the growth of nails?

A
  • Slower growth when:
    1) Increasing age (>60 years old)
    2) Cold conditions
    3) Diseases states with reduced blood flow to the body’s periphery
    4) Malnutrition
  • Nails become tender with water absorption and brittle with water loss
  • Affected by the use of solvents and detergents or chemicals handled routinely
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21
Q

How can nail plate be useful in forensic medicine?

A
  • Slow growth of nails allows the detection of previous exposure to drugs, metals and toxins through nail clippings
    1) Cocaine detected in clipped nails of newborn indicate exposure during embryogenesis
    2) Fingernail clippings of victims for identification of accused by DNA method
    3) suspected arsenic poisoning
22
Q

How can nail plate provide useful information in general medicine?

A
  • Hepatic or renal dysfunction

- Diabetes

23
Q

How can nail disorders be indicative of a person’s overall health and what are some nail disorders?

A
  • Nail disorders can reveal 10% of all skin condition
  • Nail disorders include color or shape changes, swelling of the skin around the nails and pain or persistence of white lines, dents or ridges
  • Can be detected by changes in the nails:
    1) Thinning of nail plate is a sign of nail matrix disease
    2) Nail thickening is a sign of nail bed disease
24
Q

Describe how white spots occur on nails.

A
  • Very common and usually recur
  • Small, semi-circular spots result from injury to the base of the nail (matrix) where nail cells are produced
  • Not cause for concern and will eventually grow out.
  • Causes include: allergy, nail injury, mineral deficiency or fungi
25
Q

How does splinter hemorrhages & split nails occur?

A
  • Disruption of blood vessels in the nail bed can cause fine, splinter-like vertical lines that become dark in color under the nail plate
  • Caused by injury to the nail or by certain drugs and diseases
  • Nail split primarily due to loss of plasticity due to water loss.
26
Q

What are the remedies to splinter hemorrhages & split nails?

A
  • Avoid hand sanitizers: products contain triclosan in rapidly evaporating vehicle, remove water from nail plate
  • Use moisturizer: creams/lotion containing occlusive and humectants
27
Q

What is the common technique to repair split nails?

A

Tea bag repair technique

28
Q

Describe ingrown nails and how does it occur?

A
  • Great toenails are particularly involved
  • Improper nail trimming, tight shoes and/or poor posture can cause a corner of the nail to curve downward into the skin.
29
Q

What is the remedy to ingrown nails?

A
  • Cute nails straight across with no curves. This leaves the sides longer making the nail too long to ingrow.
30
Q

Describe fungal & bacterial infections to the nail.

A
  • Make up approximately 50% of all nail disorders and can be difficult to treat
  • Common in toenails (more susceptible to fungal infections because confined in a warm moist bearing environment
  • Debris: white, green, yellow or black. May build up under the nail plate and discolor the nail bed.
31
Q

What is the remedy to fungal & bacterial infections?

A

Medicine in the form of tablets or a special paint you apply directly to the nail.

32
Q

What is psoriasis?

A
  • A chronic skin disease characterized by red, scaly patches
  • 80% of people who suffer from inflammatory arthritis associated with psoriasis also have nail problems.
  • Most common signs include pitting, rippling or discoloration of the nail, reddish-brown discoloration fo the skin under the nail, separation of the nail from the nail bed, splinter hemorrhages, crumbling and/or splitting of the nail, swelling, and redness of the skin surrounding the base of the nail.
33
Q

What are the remedies for psoriasis?

A

1) If mild, acrylic will provide a covering

2) If severe, cloth wrap and then nail paint to camouflage

34
Q

What are the reasons for nail-biting and how can it be resolved?

A
  • Linked to anxiety or boredom with older children and adults
  • Ruins the look of the nails, transfers infectious organisms from the fingers to the mouth and vice versa
  • Cured by applying bad tasting nail polishes or liquids to the nail.
35
Q

Describe the process of nail care treatment.

A

1) Remove any nail enamel remaining on the nail plate from previous application
2) Get the desired length, shape and surface by cutting, filing and pumicing
3) Clean the cuticle with cuticle removers, (not recommended because of nail health concerns)
4) massage the nails and the hands, using a moisturizing cream and gel
5) Nail buffering and whitening are conducted using an abrasive paste

36
Q

What are the 4 ways to harden/strengthen brittle nails?

A

1) Nail hardeners
2) Nail polish& prostheses as strengtheners
3) Diet rich in proteins
4) Moisturizers to treat dehydrated brittle nails

37
Q

Describe the application of nail hardeners.

A
  • Helps prevent cracking and chipping
  • Make the enamel last longer
  • Ingredients include formaldehyde (cross-linking keratin proteins), make nails brittle
  • Formaldehyde is a carcinogen and causes dermatitis in concentration >5%
38
Q

Describe the application of nail polish & prostheses as strengtheners.

A
  • Best way to strength is through nail polish as it places a protective film oover the nail plate and thickens the nail
  • Protective role but problems for removal (acetone and acetone-free removers to dehydrate the nail plate)
  • Removal of nail prostheses is traumatic to the nail, oxygen transport decreases and nail weakens (not a long term treatment)
39
Q

Describe how a diet rich in proteins can be helpful in strengthening nails.

A

Consumption of biotin (Vitamin B) as supplement is beneficial

40
Q

Describe how moisturizers can help treat brittle nails.

A
  • 2 main ingredients: Urea and lactic acid (humectants, increase water holding capacity of the nail)
    It digests keratin that opens up water-binding sites and enhances hydration
  • Urea concentration (5-20%), lactic acid (5-10%)
  • Moisturizers rich in glycerin and petrolatum are also beneficial
41
Q

Describe the use of nail prostheses and the problems associated with it.

A
  • Artificial nails for adornment or camouflaging a condition
  • Represent on the main reasons for detachement of a nail plate from the nail bed
  • ‘Sculptured nails’ if custom made
  • Methyl methacrylate was previously used to fashion nails (discontinued, due to sensitizations); Currently, ethyl or isobutyl methacrylates are used with polymers. Removable by acetone
  • Not advisable to wear for more than 3 months consecutively with 1 month rest in between
42
Q

What is the purpose of using nail Enamel/Polish/Varnish/Lacquer?

A
  • Applied to nails to color them or make them shiny

- Nail enamel forms a durable film to protect nails and make them look more beautiful

43
Q

What are the requirements for the application of nail enamel?

A
  • Have a viscosity permitting easy application
  • Dry quickly in 3-5minutes to form an even layer
  • Film should not be cloudy or have pin holes in it when dry
  • Pigments evenly dispersed and color and luster should be maintained
  • Adhere well and not come off during daily activities
  • Easy to remove with enamel remover and not damaging nails.
44
Q

What are the 4 main categories of nail enamel ingredients?

A

1) Film forming ingredients - film formers, resins and plasticiziers
2) Solvents
3) Coloring agents
4) Suspending agents - thickeners

45
Q

What are the different types of nail enamels?

A

1) Base coat - clear, milky-colored r opaque pink polish before applying nail polish (strengthen nails, restore moisture to nail and help polish adhere)
2) Top coat - Clear colored polish and forms a hardened barrier (‘quick drying’)
3) Gel - Long lasting nail polish made up of a type of methacrylate polymer. Cured by UV lamp or UV light
4) Matte - Regular polish (purposely dull finish rather than a shine), designs can be created on the nail
5) Shellac - Similar to Gel but can last up to 2 weeks

46
Q

What is the typical nail enamel formulation?

A
  • Base coat contains more resin to increase the adherence of nails
  • Top coat contains more nitrocellulose and plasticizer to improve nail enamel resistance
47
Q

What is the composition of nail enamel remover?

A
  • Consist of a mixture of solvents (e.g acetone) capable of dissolving the materials used in nail enamel
  • Contain moisturizers and water to replenish the moisture and fat removed by solvents
  • Highly flammable
48
Q

Describe the composition and function of cuticle remover.

A
  • Used to remove old cuticle and dirt on the nail plate to make nails look attractive
  • Contains sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide in 2-5%
  • Disrupt the disulfide bonds of cystine of keratin
  • Makes manicure look more attractive but it can be unhealthy for skin and nails
49
Q

What is the typical formula for cuticle removal?

A
  • Potassium hydroxide: 1-5%
  • Magnesium aluminum silicate: 1%
  • Perfume: 0.1%
  • Water: fill to 100%
50
Q

What are the safety concerns with using nail cosmetics?

A
  • Mainly higher risks faced by professional nail technicians as compared to consumers
  • For consumers: (1) Throat irritation from direct inhalation, (2) Nail/skin dehydration
  • For professionals: (1) Organic solvents (human reproduction), (2) Phthalates (increase risk of diabetes), (3) Formaldehyde (removed from some nail polish brands, carcinogenic)

PR2202 (19 decks)

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