Chapter 13 Vocabulary Flashcards
Alphahydroxy acids : AHAs
Acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin.
mild acids: glycolic lactic Malik and tartaric acid.
AHAs Exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate sell renewal.
Alcohol
Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotion, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol.
Algae
Derived from minerals and phytohormones. remineralizes and revitalize is the skin
Allantoin
AA anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey, It’s ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.
It’s used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin smoothing cosmetics
Aloe vera
. It’s an emollient with hydrating, softening, healing, anti-microbial an anti-inflammatory properties
Most popular botanical
Alpha lipoic acid
Natural molecule found in every cell in the body. It’s a powerful antioxidant and is soluble (mix) in water and oil
Alum
Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate. with strong astringent action.
Ampoules
Small, sealed files containing a single application of high concentrated extracts in water or oil base.
Anhydrous
Products with no water at all
Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plants Aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes. It’s of a highly concentrated non-oily and volatile essential oils to induce reaction as relaxing and or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
Astringents
Liquids that remove excessive oil on the skin
Azulene 
Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color. it has anti-inflammatory and smoothing properties
Benzyl peroxide
Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties. Commonly used for blemishes and acne
Beta glucans
Ingredient used and anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. By stimulating fake collagen
Beta hydroxy acid : BHAs
Dissolves oil and is beneficial for oily skin. Salicylic acid & exfoliants organic acids are milder than alpha hydroxy acid
Binders
Substances like glycerin, they bind or hold products together
Botanicals
Ingredients derived from plants
Calendula
Anti-inflammatory plant extract
Carboomers
Ingredients to thicken creams. frequently used in Gell
Carrot
A vegetable a rich in vitamin A.commonly used in seeds and oil or to use the color
Certified colors
In organic color agents also known as metal salts. Labeled as D & C (drug and cosmetics)
Chamomile
Plant extract with calming and smoothing properties
Chelating agent
A chemical added to cosmetics to improve efficiency and to make it last longer (preserve)
Chemical exfoliants
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells.
Clay masks
Oil Absorbing cleansing mask that draws impurities to the surface of the skin. as it dries & tightens
Cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin
Coenzyme Q10
Powerful antioxidant that protects skin cells
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment or mineral dyes that give products color
Comedogenicity
Any topical substance that causes or/to worsen a buildup in the follicle leading to Comodo. (Blackheads)
Cosmeceuticals
Products intended to improve the skins health & appearance
Cosmetics
Rubbed,poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance
Delivery systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the Epidermis
Detergents
Surfactant used as cleanser in skin cleansing products
DMAE
Antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants
Echinacea
Derived of a purple cone flower. Prevents infection and has healing properties. It’s used is to support the immune system
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate or moisturize. prevents water loss
Emulsifier
Surfactant that mixes water and oil which then becomes an Emulsion
Enzyme peels 
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins and exfoliate the skin.
Essential oils
Oils derived from herbs. Many have different properties and affects on the skin
Exfoliants
Mechanically and chemical products used to exfoliate the skin
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
Fatty acids
lubricant ingredient derived from plant oils or animal fat
A type of emollient
Fatty alcohols
Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
A type of emollient
Fatty esters
Produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols
A type of emollient
Fragrance
Gives products their scent
Fresheners
Skin freshening lotions with low alcohol Content
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread and give them body texture and give them a specific form such as lotion cream or gel
Glycerin
Formed by a D composition of oils or fats. A very strong water binder
Glycoproteins
Skin conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins.
Enhances cellular metabolism and wound healing
Gammage
Exfoliating cream that are rubbed off the skin.
Ex Rolloff mask
Grapeseed extract
Powerful antioxidant with smoothing properties
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and smoothing agent and is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and a stimulant
Healing agents
Chamomile or aloe vera helps to heal the skin
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs contain phytohoromones.
They are used in skin care products and cosmetics: They heal, stimulate, smooth and moisturize
Horse chestnut
Helps strengthen capillary walls and is used for couperose/telangiectasia areas
Humectants
Draws moisture to the skin and softens its surface which diminishes lines caused by dryness. Attracts water
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
Jojoba
Extracted from bean like seeds of the desert shrub.
Used as a lubricant and non-comedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation or sloughing of skin cells
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
Lakes
Insoluble Unmixable pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties also has high water absorption capabilities
Lavender
Anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing and healing
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin that helps lighten pigmentation
Lipids
Lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
Liposomes
Closed lipid bilayer spheres that incapsulate ingredients. It targets the delivery to specific tissues of the skin and control their release
Lubricants
Coats the skin and reduces friction 
Mask
Treatment product often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and
other beneficial ingredients that :cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off the skin
Methyl paraben
Most used preservative.
It’s very low in sensitizing potential in combat bacteria and mold also non-comedogenic
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Modelage mask
Facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster like ingredient.
Also known as Thermal mask
Moisturizer
Product to add moisture to the skin
Non-certified colors
Colors that are organic
They come from animal or plant extracts
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
Olfactory system
Gives us our sense of smell
It’s the strongest of five senses
Papaya
Used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
It’s a natural enzyme
Parabens
Provides bacteriostatic static and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
The most used preservative in cosmetics
Paraffin wax masks
It warms the skin and promotes penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblast, cell metabolism, collagen, and improves skin firmness
Performance ingredients
Ingredients that caused the actual change in the appearance of the skin
Petroleum jelly
Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water
PH adjusters
Acid or alkalize used to adjust the pH of a product
Phytotherapy
Plant extracts used for therapeutic benefits
Polyglucans
Ingredient derived from yeast cells
They help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism
Polymers
Chemical compound formed by combining a number of small molecules into long chain like structures
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soap and creams
Preservative
Cosmetic formula that kills bacteria and prevents product from spoiling
Propylene glycol
Often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers
Quaternium 15
Preservative active agent against bacteria, mold, and yeast.
But can cause dermatitis and allergies
Retinal
Vitamin A
stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by making new cells
Rose
Has moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and the order of properties
Salicylic acid
BHA with exfoliating an anti-septic properties
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
Silicones
Oil chemically combined with silicone and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic film on the skin surface
Sodium bicarbonate
Alkaline in organic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and PH adjuster
Sorbitol
Absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
A humectant
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix
Squalane
Derived from olives
It desensitizes and nourishes 
Squalene
A lubricant and perfume fixative
It’s involved with oil
Stem cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil gland activities and dissolves the skin surface layer of dry dead skin
Sun protection factor
SPF A product to delay son induced your erythema
SPF can help UVB not UVA
Tea tree
Soothing and anti-septic antifungal properties
Tissue respiratory factor
Ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient
Titanium dioxide
An organic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
Toners
Liquid designed to tone and tighten the skin
Urea
Properties that enhance the penetration abilities of other substances
Anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin surface and helps maintain healthy skin
Vehicles
Spreading agent
Water soluble
Mixable with water
Witch hazel
Extracted from the bark of the Hamanelis shrub
Zinc oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV a radiation