ch 13 - vocabulary / terms Flashcards
1
Q
alpha hydroxy acids
A
-abbreviated AHAs
- acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin
- mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid
- exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix
- acids also stimulate cell renewal
2
Q
alcohol
A
- antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents
- SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol
3
Q
algae
A
- derived from minerals and phytohormones
- remineralizes and revitalizes the skin
4
Q
allantoin
A
- anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey
- used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue
5
Q
aloe vera
A
- most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations
- emollient and firm-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties
6
Q
alpha lipoic acid
A
- natural molecule found in every cell in the body
- powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
7
Q
alum
A
compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action
8
Q
ampoules
A
small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base
9
Q
anhydrous
A
describes products that do not contain any water
10
Q
aromatherapy
A
- therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes
- involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
11
Q
astringents
A
liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin
12
Q
azulene
A
- derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color
- has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
13
Q
benzyl peroxide
A
drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne
14
Q
beta-glucans
A
ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen
15
Q
beta hydroxy acids
A
- abbreviated BHAs
- exfoliating organic acid
- salicylic acid
- milder than alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
- dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
16
Q
binders
A
substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together
17
Q
botanicals
A
ingredients derived from plants
18
Q
calendula
A
anti-inflammatory plant extract
19
Q
carbomers
A
- ingredients used to thicken creams
- frequently used in gel products
20
Q
carrot
A
- rich in vitamin A
- commonly derived from seeds and as an oil
- used as product colorant
21
Q
certified colors
A
- inorganic color agents aka. metal salts
- listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)
22
Q
chamomile
A
plant extract with calming and soothing properties
23
Q
chelating agent
A
chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
24
Q
chemical exfoliation
A
chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)
25
clay masks
oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten
26
cleansers
soaps and detergents that clean the skin
27
coenzyme Q10
powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells
28
colorants
substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color
29
comedogenicity
tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (blackhead)
30
cosmeceuticals
products intended to improve the skin's health and appearance
31
cosmetics
as defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
32
delivery systems
systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
33
detergents
type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products
34
DMAE
- dimethylaminoethanol
- antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants
35
echinacea
- derivative of the purple coneflower
- prevents infection and has healing properties
- used internally to support the immune system
36
emollients
oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and precent water loss
37
emulsifers
- surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion
- an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
38
enzyme peels
enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin
39
essential oils
- oils derived from herbs
- have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
40
exfoliants
mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
41
exfoliation
peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
42
fatty acids
- emollients
- lubricant ingredients derived form plant oils or animal fats
43
fatty alcohols
- emollients - fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
44
fatty esters
emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
45
fragrances
give products their scent
46
fresheners
skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content
47
functional ingredients
- ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel
- preservatives are also functional ingredients
48
glycerin
- formed by a decomposition of oils or fats
- excellent skin softener and humectant
- very strong water binder
- sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
49
glycoproteins
skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
50
gommage
- aka. roll-off mask
- exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
51
grapeseed extract
powerful antioxidant with soothing properties
52
green tea
- powerful antioxidant and soothing agent
- antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
53
healing agents
substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin
54
herbs
- hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics
- they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize
55
horsechestnut
- extract containing bioflavonoids; aka. vitamin P
-helps strengthen capillary walls
- used for couperose areas or telangiectasia
56
humectants
- ingredients that attract water
- draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
57
hydrators
ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface
58
hydrophilic agents
ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface
59
jojoba
- oily widely used in cosmetics
- extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub
- used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
60
keratolytic
agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells
61
kojic acid
skin-brightening agent
62
lakes
insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
63
lanolin
- emollient with moisturizing properties
- also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities
64
lavender
antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
65
licorice
- anti-irritant used for sensitive skin
- helps lighten pigmentation
66
lipids
- fats or fat-like substances
- lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
67
liposomes
closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
68
lubricants
- coat the skin and reduce friction
- mineral oil is a lubricant
69
mask
- aka. pack or masques
- concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
70
mechanical exfoliation
physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin
71
methylparaben
- one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential
- combats bacteria and molds
- noncomedogenic
72
mineral oil
lubricant derived from petroleum
73
modelage masks
- aka. thermal masks
- thermal heat masks
- facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient
74
mositerizers
products formulated to add moisture to the skin
75
noncertified colors
- colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts
- they can also be natural mineral pigments
76
oil soluble
compatible with oil
77
olfactory system
gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses
78
papaya
natural enzymes used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
79
parabens
- one of the most commonly used group of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries
- provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
80
paraffin wax masks
mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients though the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
81
peptides
- chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin's firmness
- larger chains are called polypeptides
82
performance ingredients
ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin
83
petroleum jelly
- occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water
- used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
84
pH adjusters
acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products
85
phytotherapy
use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits
86
polyglucans
ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism
- also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
87
polymers
- chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures
- advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate
88
potassium hydroxide
strong alkali used in soaps and creams
89
preservatives
- chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations
- kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
90
propylene glycol
humectant often used in dry- or sensitive-skin moisturizers
91
quaternium 15
- all-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast
- greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives
- may cause dermatitis and allergies
92
retinol
- natural form of vitamin A
- stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
93
rose
- credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties
- found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, and water
94
salicylic acid
- beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties
- natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
95
seaweed
- derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties
- known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
96
serums
concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
97
silicones
oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin
98
sodium bicarbonate
- baking soda
- an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster
99
sorbitol
humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
100
sphingolipids
- ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix
- glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer
101
squalane
- derived from olives
- desensitizes and nourishes
- an emollient
102
squalane
- derived from olives
- desensitizes and nourishes
- an emollient
102
squalane
- derived from olives
- desensitizes and nourishes
- an emollient squalene
103
squalene
- originally from shark liver oil
- also occurs in small amounts of olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil
- found in human sebum
- lubricant and perfume fixative
104
stem cells
- derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells
- for health and antiaging benefits
105
sulfur
- sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin's surface layer of dry, dead cells
- commonly used in acne products
106
sun protection factor
- abbreviated SPF
- ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage
- SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
107
tea tree
- soothing and antiseptic
- antifungal properties
108
tissue respiratory factor
- abbreviated TRF
- ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient
109
titanium dioxide
inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
110
toners
- aka. fresheners or astringents
- liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin's surface
111
urea
- properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances
- anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface and helps maintain healthy skin
112
vehicles
spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
113
water soluble
mixable with water
114
witch hazel
- extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub
- can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent
115
zinc oxide
- inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation
- also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin
- is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial
