Cocktail Crafting Wisdom from Tom Macy Flashcards
Maple Syrup
There’s no need to dilute maple syrup for cocktails - as you would with, say, honey. It can be used straight out of the bottle, and it should be real maple syrup, as in from a tree. I don’t have anything against Aunt Jemima on pancakes, but there’s something off about them in it in cocktails that reminds me of cough syrup.
Maple Syrup Grades
There are four grades of maple syrup which are subheadings of Grade A (a bit redundant I would say, but whatever). They are organized, quite literally, by color and taste:
Golden Color and Delicate Taste
Amber Color and Rich Flavor
Dark Color and Robust Flavor
Very Dark Color and Strong Flavor
As you can see, the darker the syrup, the stronger its flavor. For cocktails, stronger is ideal but any will suffice. Keep in mind these grades have nothing to do with quality, it’s just different flavor profiles. All maple syrup is made the same way. The sap is collected and boiled down until to syrup consistency. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of syrup (!!!). The differences between the grades is a result of when the sap was tapped. Sap runs off lighter when tapping begins which is usually somewhere between late January-mid March depending on how cold it is, and gets progressively darker throughout the season, which typically taps out - sorry, couldn’t help myself - after 4-6 weeks.
Former Maple Syrup Grading System
This grading system is new as of 2014. The old system had 3 subheadings of Grade A as well as a Grade B which was the darkest and strongest in flavor, and the bartender’s choice for cocktails (there was also a grade C that wasn’t commercially available and sold to factories for wholesale production of things like maple candy). This labeling led to the understandable misconception that grades B and C were lower quality, which precipitated the change. So some old cocktail books or articles that recommend grade B - such as mine perhaps - would refer to dark or very dark today.
Apple Jack/Apple Brandy
Apple brandy is simply brandy made from fermented and distilled apples, it has no relation to sweet apple liqueurs used to make apple martinis (yuck). Apple brandies cover a wide array of flavor profiles. As I discuss here, they broadly fall into two categories, Calvados from France, and what I dub American apple brandy, aka applejack. The American style apple brandy tends to have a more bite, making it akin to whiskey, whereas Calvados behaves like a traditional brandy, and is soft and round. Both are delicious, but for this cocktail and those like it (such as my Log Cabin), I think the sharpness of the American style makes it the better choice.
There are two basic styles: Calvados, which can only be made in the Calvados region of France, and American apple brandy, which is also sometimes referred to as applejack. Calvados is more like a true a brandy. It is round, soft, subtle and fruity. American apple brandy behaves more like a whiskey; sharper and more aggressive. I use American apple brandy more in cocktails because of its assertiveness. Laird’s 100 proof is my go-to.
Applejack vs. Apple Brandy (There’s No Difference)
To be perfectly clear, Applejack is Apple Brandy, they are interchangeable terms. Though there used to be more of a distinction.
Americans have been making booze from apples as far back as the 1600s. With no shortage of apples in the northeast, thirsty colonists made hard cider which could be then distilled into apple brandy. But distillation requires a still, which not everyone had access to, so many who were in search of a stronger drink turned to a simpler method of concentrating the cider called jacking, aka freeze distillation.
This is when a fermented beverage like hard cider, beer or wine is kept at freezing temperatures so the non-alcoholic elements solidify while the alcohol - which freezes at much lower temperatures - remains a liquid. This ice can then be skimmed off leaving the remaining liquid at a higher proof. The process can be repeated for further concentration, though it won’t reach an ABV as high as a traditionally distilled spirit.
Eventually, someone coined “jacked” cider, with the catchy name applejack. No commercial apple brandy is made with this method today. Aside from being prohibitively impractical on a large scale, it’s also quite dangerous because toxic higher alcohols like methanol aren’t removed as they can be with traditional distillation. So hear that kids? Don’t try this at home.
The term Applejack persists today presumably because it sounds cool (and very cool at that, that’s the only reason I call it an Applejack Old Fashioned, as opposed to an Apple Brandy Old Fashioned). You still see printed applejack on labels sometimes, just remember there’s no production-related difference from apple brandy. However, sometimes a spirit will be labeled as “Blended Applejack”, or “Applejack - a Blend”. These are a mixture of 20-30% apple brandy with the rest being neutral grain spirits - not bad, but not my favorite
Spirits
A spirit, aka hard liquor, is a fermented beverage that has been distilled to at least 40% alcohol by volume (ABV) or 37.5% in the EU. For example, when beer and wine are distilled they become whiskey and brandy, respectively. Spirits are used in cocktails in the largest quantities, which is why they’re also sometimes referred to as “base spirits.” There are many different spirit categories, but the majority of cocktail recipes contain one of just five: whiskey, gin, rum, tequila and vodka.
Most of these categories also contain multiple sub-categories or styles. For example, bourbon and Scotch are both kinds of whiskey (among many others) and there are white and aged style rums. The specific types of spirits I’ve listed below are what I recommend getting first.
Modifiers & Bitters
Modifiers & Bitters
Modifier is a term coined by bartenders for an ingredient that’s used as a secondary flavor in a cocktail, in support of the base spirit, for example, the vermouth in a Manhattan or Martini. They are usually a lower proof, but not always, and are typically either wine-based (vermouth), or spirit based (liqueur). They encompass an exceptionally wide array of different products, but the 4 bottles listed here have the broadest applications.
Bitters are an intensely concentrated infusion of herbs, roots and other botanicals. They are usually alcohol-based, though some are glycerin-based. I think of bitters like cooking spices; they are used in small quantities to enhance and deepen other flavors, not to be the primary one.
Where to Buy Bitters?
A little tip on shopping for bitters; because they are classified as a food product and not an alcoholic one, in most states they cannot be sold in a liquor store. You’ll find them in the grocery store, usually around the spices and condiments, not a liquor store. Or just buy them online.
Aperitifs & Digestifs
Many products that fall under the modifier umbrella are also consumed straight and unaccompanied as aperitifs or digestifs, which are drinks taken before or after a meal, respectively. But to be clear, these are not specific categories of alcohol. A cocktail could also be served as an aperitif, for example. So, while some bottles may have “aperitif” or “digestif” printed on their label, it is more of a serving suggestion or declaration of style, rather than an official classification.
The 10 Must Have Bottles
- Bourbon or Rye Whiskey
- Gin
- White Rum
- Blanco Tequila
- Vodka
- Sweet Vermouth
- Dry Vermouth
- Cointreau or another good orange liqueur
- Campari
- Angostura Bitters
Rye and Bourbon Whiskey
Whiskey is perhaps the king of all cocktail spirits, or maybe it’s just my favorite. While there are several delicious categories of whiskey - Scotch, Irish, Canadian, etc. - for cocktails you generally want American whiskey. This means either bourbon or rye.
Bourbon is made with at least 51% corn, which is a sweeter grain, so the resulting whiskey is a bit mellower and rounder. On the other hand, rye is made with at least 51% rye, which makes a whiskey that’s sharper, spicier and drier. Both are excellent in cocktails, just different. Whichever you choose is purely a matter of personal preference. Or if you’re like me, you’ll get one of each
Recommended brands: Rye: 1. High West Double Rye 2. Wild Turkey Rye 101 3. Old Overholt 4. Bulleit Rye 5. Russell’s Reserve 6 6. Pikeville Rye
Bourbon:
- Bonded Evan Williams - 100 Proof
- Elijah Craig
- Old Forester Signature, 100 Proof
- Knob Creek
- Four Roses Single Barrel
- Henry McKenna Single Barrel
London Dry Gin
Gin is one of the most versatile cocktail spirits. It mixes well with just about anything. Gin is made by infusing a neutral spirit with a variety of botanicals, most prominently juniper berries, which have a bright pine needle-like aroma (so, gin is basically a flavored vodka).
The gin category is evolving quite a bit these days and there are a lot of new styles emerging, but a traditional London dry gin is the best place to start. These are the crisp, clean, juniper-forward gins that you’re probably most familiar with and what you generally get any time you order a Gin & Tonic.
Recommended Brands: Beefeater Ford's Tanqueray Plymouth
White Rum
White Rum
Rum is the most diverse, unregulated and underappreciated spirit category. It is made from sugar cane, usually in molasses form. Styles range from clean and light to smooth and rich to earthy and funky and everywhere in between. While I definitely encourage you to explore them all, it’s best to start with a white rum, which is what you’ll use in a Daiquri, Mojito and Rum & Coke.
Frustratingly, good white rum can be somewhat elusive. The most popular and best-circulated rum brands are designed to taste more neutral to target a broader audience. A good white rum should always retain some fruit and spice flavors derived from the sugar cane. They’re out there, but are more common at boutique liquor stores.
Recommended Brands: Plantation 3 Star Flor de Caña 4 El Dorado 3 Cana Brava
Blanco Tequila
Tequila is made from the agave plant which looks like a cactus but is actually a relative of asparagus. I strongly recommend getting tequila that is labeled 100% agave, which means the only ingredient is agave. If it doesn’t say 100%, it’s a “mixto”, and has been cut with a non-agave distillate. These also often have artificial flavorings. Many of the largest and most visible brands are mixtos.
A quality tequila’s flavors can range from fruity to herbaceous to vegetal to earthy, but they should all possess qualities of roasted and caramelized agave. When a tequila is aged in oak, it can be called a reposado (rested) or añejo (aged) tequila, but an unaged white or “blanco” tequila is what you should get first. It’s what you’ll use in Margaritas.
Recommended Brands:
Pueblo Viejo
Milagro
Cabeza
Vodka
Vodka is a neutral spirit with no specific or added flavor (that’s excluding flavored vodkas of course). It can be made from any agricultural product, but the most common is grain. Because of its neutrality, vodka will take whatever flavor you add to it, making it the most adaptable spirit in cocktails. While I personally don’t use it as much, vodka is one of the most popular spirits in the world, and an important addition to any bar. The general rule is that any cocktail that has gin will work great with vodka.
You don’t need to shell out extra cash for premium vodka for cocktails, though marketing has successfully convinced people otherwise. These brands are not as widely circulated and all quite good, but the Smirnoff’s and Stolis of the world are perfectly solid and affordable options.
Recommended Brands:
Luksusowa
Spring 44
Aylesbury Duck Vodka
Sweet & Dry Vermouth
Vermouth is a wine that has been both fortified - meaning a little spirit is added - and aromatized - meaning it’s been infused with a variety of herbs, roots and other botanicals. Sweet and dry vermouths are both made from a base of white wine. Sweet vermouth has caramelized sugar added which gives it a reddish brown color, in addition to supplying sweetness. Dry vermouth is clear, has less sugar added, and fewer botanical flavors overall. So in addition to being less sweet, dry vermouth is also milder and, for lack or a better word, “winier”.
You need vermouth to make Manhattans, Martinis and Negronis. It’s hard to make a better case than that for including something in your bar.
Recommended brands: The big three vermouth brands, Martini & Rossi, Noilly Prat and Cinzano, each make sweet and dry, and all are totally solid. I personally would go with Cinzano for sweet and Noilly Prat for dry, if you have options. But outside of those, there are lot more diverse and complex vermouths available nowadays, particularly in the sweet category. I highly recommend one of these if you can find them:
Dolin Rouge Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Del Professore Rosso Carpano Antica Cardamaro - Technically not a vermouth. But mixes like one. Dolin Dry
**Note: Vermouth should be refrigerated after opening!
Vermouth should still be considered a wine. Even though it has some spirit added, there isn’t enough to fully stabilize it. Don’t worry, that bottle of vermouth that’s been sitting on your shelf for the last ten years isn’t going to hurt you; it’s just oxidized and won’t taste as fresh. So keep vermouth in the fridge. Your Martinis will thank you.
Cointreau and Orange liqueurs
Cointreau, or another orange liqueur
Broadly speaking, liqueurs are spirit based modifiers that are sweetened and flavored with a wide array of herbs, fruits, flowers, roots, nuts and even cream. They generally won’t spoil like vermouth unless something perishable is added.
If you have one liqueur, it should be an orange liqueur, aka curaçao or triple sec - they are all variations on the same theme. It is a pivotal ingredient in indispensable classics like the Margarita, Side Car, Mai Tai and Cosmopolitan. I generally swear by Cointreau for its bright, clean orange flavor. Other great orange options are Combier, Gran Marnier and Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao.
Campari
Campari
A bitter liqueur is simply a liqueur with some kind of bittering agent added. Many of them come from Italy, where they are called amari (plural for amaro). While bitterness is not the most widely appreciated flavor - especially in the United States - it is well worth acquiring a taste for, in drinks anyway. Bitter liqueurs - which are really better described as bittersweet - bring another dimension to cocktails of captivating depth and complexity.
While there are many wonderful options available, the flagship bitter liqueur would have to be Campari, primarily because it is a keystone ingredient in the flagship the bitter cocktail: the Negroni. But if you find Campari to be too in-your-face, and some do, try Aperol instead. It has some more fruit flavors, the same level of sweetness, with about half the bitterness.
Angostura Bitters
If you only have one bottle of bitters, make it Angostura. They are essential in Old Fashioneds and Manhattans. Angostura is a brand, not a style. They made in Trinidad and are a type of aromatics bitters that feature earthy baking spices, particularly clove, along with loftier aromas like citrus peel and vanilla, capped off with a distinct bitterness courtesy of gentian. They are the most versatile and, thankfully, most available bitters around. You can’t miss them in the store, with their bright yellow cap and an over-sized white label. In keeping with my analogy above, if bitters are like cooking spices, then Angostura is the salt.
Cognac & Aged Grape Brandys
Brandy is distilled fermented fruit, aka wine. Naturally, grapes are the most common base. While just about every country makes their own national version of brandy, Cognac, which is a brandy that can only be made in the Cognac region of France, is generally the most reliable option for cocktails. Sometimes it is even specifically called for, such as in the Side Car, one of my favorites. The bad news is it is more expensive, but the good news is the entry-level priced bottlings from any of the major brands, which will be labeled “VS” or “VSOP”, will usually work just fine.
Mezcal
Mezcal is the wild, fascinating and recently trending parent of tequila. It can be made using any species of agave, as opposed to just one, as with tequila. Flavor wise, the main difference between the two is mezcal is distinctively smoky, which comes from the agaves being cooked in earthen pits with hot rocks. But mezcal can also be sweet, floral, earthy, funky and fruity, often all at once. Its eclecticism is enchanting. Del Maguey’s Vida is a common choice by bars and very affordable.
Aged rum
Aged rum is an extremely broad term referring to any rum that has spent time in a barrel and/or has some color. They’re often identified by shade, i.e. gold rum, amber rum, dark rum. Generally, whenever a cocktail calls broadly for aged rum I go with an amber. You may also want to check out Jamaican rum, which is known for its heavier and more robust style. Jamaican rum is the base of the Mai Tai.
Absinthe
Absinthe is a spirit infused with botanicals, similar to gin. Its primary flavor is anise, or what many of us associate with licorice, and it is quite potent, typically around 55% ABV. Because of this, absinthe is often used in smaller doses in cocktails, so as not to overwhelm other flavors. The Sazerac and Corpse Reviver are two of several classics that it appears in. The infamous green color traditionally comes from the addition of green anise, mint, spinach and no, it will not make you hallucinate. Absinthe has been legal in the U.S. since 2007.
Orange Bitters
If Angostura bitters are salt, then orange bitters are pepper. I consider them to be practically essential in an Old Fashioned. Most bitters lines make an orange, and they’re all solid. I like Bitter Truth’s the best, or a mixture of equal parts Fee’s and Regan’s, which is what many cocktail bars do.
The Bitter Truth Orange Bitters (my preferred choice)
Regan’s Orange Bitters
Fee’s Orange Bitters
Peychaud’s Bitters
This is a very old bitters brand from New Orleans. It is technically an aromatic style bitters like Angostura, but much brighter, with notes of citrus and a hint of anise. The main reason to pick up a bottle of Peychaud’s bitters is so you can make a proper Sazerac. Do you need a second reason?
“Baking Spice” Bitters, aka Aromatic Bitters
Aromatic bitters are a style of bitters. While Angostura and Peychaud’s are technically aromatic bitters, both are such classic and iconic brands I think of them each as their own category.
Aromatic bitters made by most other bitters companies follow a more standard model. They tend to be darker with prominent baking spice flavors, particularly cinnamon. One of these is great to have around, particularly in the fall and winter. I use them in several recipes on the Holidays page. I like to use a few drops of them in a classic Old Fashioned as well. On the recipe pages I refer to them as “Baking Spice Bitters”, which is an entirely made up term. Here are my preferred bottles, along with purchasing links:
The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Decanter Bitters (my top choice)
The Bitter Truth Old Time Aromatic Bitters
Fee Brothers Old Fashion Aromatic Bitters
Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel-Aged Bitters
Lillet or Cocchi Americano
These are fortified and aromatized wines that are similar to vermouth but not technically in the same category. They are lighter and brighter than typical vermouths, with more fruit and citrus flavors. Cocchi has a bit more bitterness on the finish. They are needed to make James Bond’s Vesper cocktail and a Corpse Reviver #2. You can read more details about them here.
White Vermouth (aka Blanc Vermouth)
This is a lesser known vermouth style that is clear like dry vermouth, but with added sugar, so it’s sweet, but much lighter and not as earthy as sweet vermouth. It makes for an excellent twist on a Martini or Negroni. I recommend Dolin Blanc.