Coast KQ 1&2 Flashcards

You may prefer our related Brainscape-certified flashcards:
1
Q

What is a spilling wave ?

A

Steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

What is a plunging wave ?

A

Moderately steep waves breaking onto steep beaches

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

what is a surging wave ?

A

Low angle waves breaking onto steep beaches

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

What is a swell wave ?

A

Long wavelength , wave period up to 20 seconds .formed in ocean oceans

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

What is a storm wave ?

A

Locally generated
Shorter wavelength , greater height , shorter wave period

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

What is the equation for the amount of energy in a wave ?

A

P= h^2 t

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

What is a system ?

A

A set of interrelated objects comprising of components and processes that are connected together to form a working unit

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

What energy types are available to a coastal landscape system ?

A

Kinetic , potential and thermal

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

What is an open system ?

A

Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input but also as an output

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

What are some examples of inputs of a coastal landscape ?

A

Kinetic energy from wind and waves
Thermal energy from heat of sun
Potential energy from the position of material on sloped
Material from marine deposition

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

What are some examples of outputs of a coastal landscape ?

A

Marine and wind erosion
Evaporation

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

What are some examples of processes in a coastal landscape system ?

A

Longshore drift

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

When could equilibrium occur in a coastal landscape ?

A

When the rate at which sediment is bing added to the beach equal the rate at which sediment is being removed from the beach

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

What is dynamic equilibrium ?

A

When equilibrium is disturbed , the system undergoes self regulation and changes its form in order to restore equilibrium

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

What is a sediment cell ?

A

Reaches of shoreline which encompass th enter tidal and nearshore movement of sediment

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Why are sediment cells closed systems ?

A

No sediment is transferred from one cell to another

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

How many large sediment cells are there around the coast of England and wales ?

A

11

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

How are the boundries of sediment cells determined ?

A

By the topography and shape of the coastline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

Why is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed ?

A

Because of variations in wind direction and the presence of tidal currents

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

What is a special impact ?

A

From place to place

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

What is a temporal impact ?

A

Over time

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

What is the source of energy for coastal erosion and sediment transport ?

A

Wave action

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

How is wave energy generated ?

A

By the frictional drag of winds moving across the oceans surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

What are onshore winds ?

A

Blow from the sea towards the land , very effective at driving waves towards the coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
Q

How does wind affect landforms ?

A

Helps to create constructive and destructive
Can make small landforms such as sand dunes and blowouts

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
26
Q

How do waves link to energy ?

A

A wave posses potential energy as a result of its position above the wave trough, and kinetic energy caused by the motion of the water within the wave

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
27
Q

What is the formula for the amount of energy in a wave in deep water ?

A

Power = height ^2 X time interval between wave crests

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
28
Q

What is the wave period ?

A

Time interval between wave crests in seconds

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
29
Q

What is wave frequency ?

A

The number of waves per minute

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
30
Q

How do waves affect landforms ?

A

They deposit sediment for spits and beaches
Form wave cut notches
Discordant coastline could form due to increased erosion rates

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
31
Q

What is negative feedback ?

A

When the process seeks to counter the change and maintain equilibrium

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
32
Q

What is steady state equilibrium ?

A

Where variations in energy and the morphological response do nt deviate too far from the long term average

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
33
Q

What is meta state equilibrium ?

A

Where an environment switches between two or more states f equilibrium

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
34
Q

What is positive feedback ?

A

Where a flow/transfer leads to increase or growth

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
35
Q

What are the features of constructive waves ?

A

Low height
Longer wavelength
Low frequency
6-8 per min
Strong swash
Weak backwash
Surging wave break
Deposition

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
36
Q

What are th features of destructive waves ?

A

High height
Shorter wavelength
High frequency
12-14 per min
Weak swash
Strong backwash
Plunging wave break
EROSION

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
37
Q

What is a sediment budget ?

A

The balance of the sediment volume entering and exiting a particular section of the coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
38
Q

What is a swell wave ?

A

Long wavelength
Wave period of up to 20 seconds
Formed in open oceans

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
39
Q

What is a storm wave ?

A

Locally generated
Shorter wavelength
Greater height
Shorter wave length

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
40
Q

What is a tide ?

A

The periodic rise and fall of the sea surface and are produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and to a lesser extent the sun.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
41
Q

How do high tides form ?

A

The moon pulls water towards it ,creating a high tide , and there is a compensatory bulge on the opposite side of the earth

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
42
Q

Where will there be a low tide ?

A

At locations between the two bulges

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
43
Q

When will the highest tides occur ?

A

When the moon , sun and earth are all aligned and so the gravitational pull is at its strongest (this happens twice each lunar month and results in spring tides with a high tidal range )

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
44
Q

How are neap tides produced ?

A

Twice a month , the moon and sun are a tight angles to each other and the gravitational pull is therefore at its weakness
This produces neap tides and low tidal range

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
45
Q

What does tidal range influence ?

A

Where wave action occurs
Weathering process that happen on land exposed between tides
Potential scouring effect of waves along coasts with a high tidal range

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
46
Q

How is the formation of sand dunes connected to tides ?

A

The larger the tidal range the more time the sand has to dry so when it is dry it can be blown up the beach to from sand dunes

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
47
Q

How do tides affect landforms ?

A

Low tidal range = narrower beach which is prone to more erosion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
48
Q

What do tidal currents do ?

A

Move sediment to and from a beach and are much more consistent than rip currents

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
49
Q

what is a neap tide ?

A

Lower than normal tides
Occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth so the gravitational pull from both has a reduced impact

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
50
Q

When do neap tides occur ?

A

Follows 7 days after a spring tide

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
51
Q

What is a spring tide ?

A

Occurs when there’s a new or full moon
Happens twice per month
The tides on average are slightly larger than usual

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
52
Q

How are rip currents caused ?

A

Either by tidal motion or by waves breaking at right angles to the shore

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
53
Q

What is a rip current ?

A

Strong and relatively narrow currents of water that flow seaward against breaking waves
they are temporary
Some last for hours , some last for months

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
54
Q

How are ocean currents generated ?

A

By the earths rotation and by convection
They are set in motion by the movement of winds across the waters surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
55
Q

What do warm ocean currents do ?

A

Transfer heat energy from low latitudes towards the poles

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
56
Q

What do cold ocean currents do ?

A

Move cold water from the polar regions towards the equator
They are driven. By offshore winds so have less effect on coastal landscapes

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
57
Q

What coastal landforms do rip currents make ?

A

Remove sediment from the beach
Create sand bars , cusps and inshore gutters

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
58
Q

How do warm ocean currents affect the landscape ?

A

They increase the rate of sub Ariel processes
Warmer the air , the faster the chemical and biological weathering

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
59
Q

What does lithology mean ?

A

The physical and chemical composition of rocks

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
60
Q

What does the structure of the rock mean ?

A

Properties of individual rock types such as jointing , bedding and faulting

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
61
Q

What coastal processes are affected by geology ?

A

Lots of bedding planes and joints encourages weathering , erosion and mass movement
lithology affect erosion and weathering rates

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
62
Q

How does geology affect coastal landforms ?

A

Affects cliff shape and gradient due to angle of strata
Resistant rock - arches , stacks , stumps
Less resistant rock - beaches , gentle slopes and cliffs

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
63
Q

What are some stores in a coastal system ?

A

Dunes
Beaches
Sandbank

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
64
Q

What are some inputs of the coastal system?

A

Cliff erosion
River sediment
Longshore drift
Wave deposition

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
65
Q

What are the outputs of the coastal system ?

A

Aeolian erosion to inland
Longshore drift
Wave erosion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
66
Q

What is freeze thaw weathering ?

A

Water enters cracks/joints in rock, and freezes causing a 10% expansion.
This exerts pressure on the rock
Repeated freezing and thawing(to allow more water to enter ), eventually causes rocks to break

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
67
Q

What is pressure release ? (also called dilation)

A

When overlying rocks are removed (due to weathering and erosion), the pressure is released , allowing rocks to expand and fracture parallel to the surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
68
Q

What is thermal expansion ? (insulation weathering, or onion skin weathering )

A

Outer layers of rocks expand and contract when heated and cooled.repeated cycles of heating and cooling can cause the outer layers to crack and flake off

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
69
Q

What is salt crystallisation ?

A

Saline water enters pore spaces or cracks in rocks
Water evaporates causing the salt to precipitate out forming crystals.
The growth of the crystals over time creates stresses within the rocks, leading to break up
Particularly effective with sodium sulphate and sodium carbonate around 26-28 degrees .

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
70
Q

What are the 4 types of physical weathering ?

A

Freeze thaw
Pressure release
Thermal expansion
Salt crystallisation

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
71
Q

What are the 5 types of chemical weathering ?

A

Oxidation
Carbonation
Solution
Hydrolysis
Hydration

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
72
Q

What is oxidation ?

A

Some minerals in rocks (iron), react with oxygen , either in air or water
Causes rocks to crumble easily

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
73
Q

What is carbonation ?

A

Weak carbonic acid is formed when rain reacts with CO2 in atmosphere
Th acid reacts with calcium carbonate in limestone and chalk creating calcium bicarbonate , which is soluble in water and therefore easily removed

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
74
Q

What is solution (chemical weathering )?

A

Some minerals (gypsum), are soluble in water , so are relatively easily dissolved and removed by seawater

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
75
Q

What is hydrolysis ?

A

Thi is the reaction between water and a group of rock minerals called silicates (e.g. feldspar found in granite reacts with water to form kaolin

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
76
Q

What is hydration ?

A

Certain minerals react wth water creating new minerals of a larger volume
Other minerals , e.g. clay , expand when wet and contract when dry
Causing many rocks , e.g. shale to flake at their surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
77
Q

What are the two types of biological weathering ?

A

Tree roots
Organic acids

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
78
Q

What is tree root biological weathering ?

A

Tree roots grow into cracks in the rocks and exert outward pressure
Works in a similar way to freeze thaw
When trees fall , the roots can also exert leverage on the rock bringing them to the surface
This exposes them to further weathering
So rocks break apart

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
79
Q

What is organic acids biological weathering ?

A

They are produced during decomposition of plant and animal litter
They case soil water to become more acidic and react with some minerals in a process called chelation

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
80
Q

What does blue-green algae do to rocks ?(weathering )

A

Produces a shiny film of iron and manganese oxides on rocks

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
81
Q

What do molluscs do on shore platforms ? (weathering )

A

May secrete acids which produce small surface hollows in the rock

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
82
Q

What type of cliffs does rockfall occur on ?

A

cliffs of 40 degrees or more
If the cliff face is bare

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
83
Q

What happens in rockfall ?

A

Rocks become detached from slope by physical weathering
Then fall off the foot of the cliff under gravity

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
84
Q

What happens after rockfall occurs ?

A

Wave processes usually remove the material
Or
May accumulate as a relatively straight , lower angled scree slope

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
85
Q

What is hydraulic action ?

A

When waves break against the cliff face
Air and water gets trapped in cracks and become compressed
As wave recedes the pressure is released , air and water suddenly expand and the crack is widened

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
86
Q

What is the average pressure exerted by breaking Atlantic waves ?

A

11,000kg per m cubed

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
87
Q

What is pounding ?

A

When mass of a breaking wave exerts a pressure on the rock causing it to weaken

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
88
Q

How does hydraulic action affect the coastline ?

A

Happens in hard rock on a headland
Can form wave cut notches

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
89
Q

How does abrasion affect the coastline ?

A

Form caves , arches , stacks and stumps
Hard rock on headland
Destructive waves
Requires high energy waves

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
90
Q

How does attrition affect the coastline ?

A

Creates more sand and adds to the sediment budget

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
91
Q

What is suspension ?

A

Small particles of sand , silt and clay can be carried by currents
This is why some sea water is muddy or brown
Larger particles can be carries in this way during storms

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
92
Q

When does deposition occur?

A

Where rate of sediment accumulation exceeds the rate of removal
When wave slows down immediately after breaking
At the top of the swash - for a brief moment the water stops moving
During the backwash - when water percolates into beach material
In low energy environments

93
Q

What is settling velocity ?

A

Velocity at which sediment particles are deposited

94
Q

Give an example of a rockfall ?

A

White cliffs of Dover
March 2012
Area size of a football pitch fell
Rubble fell 300ft downwards

95
Q

Give an example of a landslide ?

A

Lyme Regis
6th may 2008
Occurred after a long wet period during winter nad early spring
Mudslide

96
Q

Give an example of slumping ?

A

Evans cliff , charmouth , uk
14th January 2006
17 people trapped
200,000 tonnes of mud toppled down

97
Q

Where do rockfalls occur ?

A

On cliffs of 40 degrees or more
Especially if cliff face is bare

98
Q

What is rockfall ?

A

Rapid free fall of rock from a steep cliff face
Rock fragments fall because of gravity and freeze thaw weathering

99
Q

Where doo landslides occur ?

A

On cliffs previously weakened by weathering

100
Q

What is landslide ?

A

Downhill movement of large amounts of rock,soil and mud
Heavy rain infiltrates soil and percolated down into rock
Has a straight slip plane

101
Q

What type of slip plane does slumping have ?

A

Curved

102
Q

Where does slumping occur ?

A

Common at clay cliffs , dry weather makes the clay crack allowing water to get into it

103
Q

What is slumping ?

A

Material is rotated backwards into cliff face as it slips large pieces of rock are pulled downwards

104
Q

How does a cove form ?

A

1)alternate bands of resistant and less resistant rock are laid paralelé to coastline
2)tectonic pressures cause fault in limestone
3)destructive waves attack fault , eventually limestone eroded through
4)less resistant sands and clays are rapidly eroded to form a cove
5)cove entrance narrows

105
Q

Why do waves “bend”?

A

When they touch the seabed , friction causes the wave at the headland to slow down ,

106
Q

What is an orthogonal ?

A

Imaginary lines which show the direction of the waves
They are at right angles to the wave crest

107
Q

What effect do converging orthogonal have on the headlands ?

A

They bring concentrated erosion o the headlands

108
Q

What happens to the orthogonal in the bay ?

A

They are less concentrated
The waves are spread out with less energy - deposition
S sediment builds up

109
Q

What happens to horizontally bedded strata ?

A

Undercutting by wave action leads to rockfall
The cliff retreats inland
Parallel to the coast

110
Q

What happens to seaward dipping strata ?

A

Undercutting by wave action removes basal support
Rock layers loosened by weathering slide into the sea along the bedding planes

111
Q

What happens to landward dipping strata ?

A

Rocks loosened by weathering and wave action are difficult to dislodge
The slope profile is gradually lowered by mass movement and weathering

112
Q

What is a spit ?

A

Long , narrow beaches of sand which are attached to land at one end and extend across the bay

113
Q

What 3 pre conditions are required in the formation of a spit ?

A

Shallow water
Supply of sediment
Bend in coastline

114
Q

What happens when the coast changes direction ?(spits)

A

Sediment keeps being deposited in the direction of the prevailing wind

115
Q

Why does a spit hook ?

A

Prevailing wind or wave refraction changes direction
Or secondary wind direction can cause this too

116
Q

What makes a spit permanent ?

A

Vegetation could grow and the roots fix sediment in place

117
Q

Give 4 facts about spurn point ?

A

On the Huber estuary
Has a road running down it
Less than 10m wide in some places

118
Q

Why are spits considered to being balance to a coastal system ?

A

Deposition which balances out erosion
Creates new land

119
Q

How are headlands and bay in dynamic equilibrium ?

A

Erosion on headlands is counterbalanced by deposition in the bays

120
Q

What is a geo ?

A

Narrow, steep side clefts within cliffs

121
Q

What processes are included in the formation of a geo ?

A

Abrasion
Weathering
Biological weathering

122
Q

What is an example of a geo ?

A

Huntsman leap

123
Q

How is a geo formed ?

A
124
Q

What is a blowhole ?

A

When pressure is in the rock so it explodes out the top

125
Q

What are the processes involved in the formation of a blowhole ?

A

Pneumatic action
Hydraulic action

126
Q

What is an example of a blowhole?

A

Blowhole in trevone , Cornwall

127
Q

How does a blowhole form ?

A

May form via hydraulic action and pneumatic action of the waves crashing into the “ceiling” of the cave
Eroding upwards to the point where the land above collapses and falls through

128
Q

How do high energy destructive waves affect beach profile ?

A

Strong backwash drags sediment down beach
Beach gets a flatter gradient
This means shallower water , more friction and less wave energy

129
Q

How do low energy constructive waves affect beach profile ?

A

Strong swash adds more sediment onto beach
So beach gets steeper gradient
So deeper water , less friction and more wave energy

130
Q

What is a salt marsh ?

A

Areas of periodically flooded low-lying coastal wetland that are found in sheltered areas behind spits

131
Q

What are slat marshes a coastal habitat for ?

A

Plants , birds and animals

132
Q

What is a mudflat ?

A

Flat , low lying areas of mud

133
Q

What factors influence the rate of development of a salt marsh ?

A

Rates of deposition v rates of erosion

134
Q

What is a floc ?

A

A mass of clay particles formed in a fluid by aggregation of suspended particles

135
Q

What is flocculation ?

A

Causes the aggregation of minute clay particles into larger masses which are too heavy to remain suspended in the water

136
Q

Why os flocculation important ?

A

It encourages deposition because the flocs are too heavy

137
Q

What benefits do salt tolerant plants create within the salt marsh environment ?

A

They encourage deposition because they slow down the flow of water
Help to trap sediment

138
Q

What are some slat tolerant plants found at salt marshes ?

A

Eelgrass
Cordgrass

139
Q

What happens to species diversity as you move inland of the slat marsh ?

A

It increases as conditions are less harsh (salt content decreases )

140
Q

What are creeks ?

A

Small streams that drain the marsh at low tide allowing water to drain back into the sea

141
Q

What are saltpans ?

A

Flat area of ground covered with salt deposited by the evaporation of saline water

142
Q

What conditions are required for salt marshes to form ?

A

No wind or waves
Good supply of sediment
Low lying flat coast
Clay in suspension , which leads to flocculation

143
Q

Which of the 5 physical factors are important in salt marshes ?

A

Tidal currents - sweep sediment in
Tidal range - important as marsh form etween these

144
Q

How do salt marshes form ?

A
145
Q

What are beaches ?

A

Sloping areas of deposition between high and low water marks

146
Q

Where does beach material come from ?

A

Cliff erosion - 5%
Offshore(combed from seabed, during periods of rising sea levels)- 5%
Rivers - 90%

147
Q

What type of gradient beaches does sand and shingle cause ?

A

Sand - gentle
Shingle - steep

148
Q

Why do sand beaches have a gentle gradient ? (Usually less than 5 degrees)

A

Small particle size so it becomes compact when wet , allowing little percolation during backwash
Little energy is lost to friction , and little volume lost to percolation , material is carried back down beach rather than being left at top

149
Q

What is a ridge ?

A

Raised area of sediment running parallel to the shore

150
Q

What is a runnel ?

A

Low trough (or dip)either side of a ridge .parallel to the shore

151
Q

What is a breached ridge ?

A

Part of a ridge has been eroded away or broken through

152
Q

What is a berm ?

A

Ridge at the back of a beach created from deposition
Found at the mean high tide mark

153
Q

What is a storm ridge/beach ?

A

Ridge of larger cobbles and pebbles behind the berm that have been throw there by the storm waves

154
Q

What is a cusp ?

A

Small semi circular depressions at the back of the beach formed by waves reaching the same point at the same time

155
Q

why do shingle beaches have a steeper gradient ?

A

Saw ash is stronger than backwash so there is a net movement of shingle on shore
Shingle may make up the upper part of the beach where rapid percolation due to larger air spaces means that title backwash occurs and so materia is left at the top of beach

156
Q

Why do you need a sheltered bay for a beach to form ?

A

Because the waves are calmer and constructive so they will deposit more material

157
Q

Why do yo need constrictive waves to form a beach ?

A

They have a stronger swash than backwash so they deposit more sediment on the beach

158
Q

How does waves affect the formation f a beach ?

A

Constructive waves = deposit material

159
Q

How does wind affect the formation of a beach ?

A

Blows dry sand up the beach to form sand dunes

160
Q

Why are beaches in equilibrium ?

A

Deposition and erosion are in balance with each other

161
Q

What is a tómbolo ?

A

Beaches that connect the mainland to an offshore island
Often formed from spits that have continued until they Jin an island

162
Q

Give an example of a tombolo ?

A

30km long shingle beach at Chelsie near Weymouth

163
Q

What ae the three theories of how tombolos are formed ?

A

Wave reaction
Longshore drift
Seal level change

164
Q

How does longshore drift form a tombolo ?

A

Carries material along the beach in a zig zag pattern
Swash comes in at a diagonal angle and backwash brings sediment back straight into sea

165
Q

How does wave refraction form tombolos ?

A

Waves bend round island and sediment builds up
(ADD 111_

166
Q

How does sea level change form a tombolo ?

A

In the past there were lower sea levels and low energy waves that have deposited material creating offshore bars
Constructive waves pushed this material back toward the shore building up a ridge that attaché to the mainland to the island

167
Q

What is an offshore bar ?

A

Submerged or partly exposed ridges of sand that os built by waves parallel to the beach

168
Q

What is an onshore bar ?

A

They can develop if a spit continues to grow across a cove or bay until it joins land at the other side

169
Q

What forms behind a onshore bar ?

A

A lagoon or brackish water on the landward side

170
Q

What will happen to this lagoon over time ?

A

Will gradually be infilled by deposition

171
Q

What is an example of an onshore bar ?

A

100m wide bar , slapton snads , Devon

172
Q

How could have slapton snads be formed ?

A

By post glacial sea rise
Onshore movement of sediment especially flint

173
Q

What is a delta ?

A

Large areas of sediment found at the mouth of many rivers

174
Q

How do deltas form ?

A

When rivers an tidal currents deposit sediment at a faster rate than waves and tides can remove it

175
Q

What are the 4 requirements for a delta to form ?

A

Tidal ranges are low
Low energy environment
Rivers entering the sea are carrying large sediment loads
B-road continental shelf margin exists at the river mouth to provide a platform for sediment accumulation

176
Q

What are the three parts of a delta ?

A

Upper delta plain
Lower delta plain
Submerged delta plain

177
Q

What is the uppe delta plain?

A

Furtherst inland
Beyond the reach of tides
Composed entirely of river deposits

178
Q

What is the lower delta plain ?

A

In the inter tidal zone
Regularly submerged
Composed of both river and marine deposits

179
Q

What is the submerged delta plain ?

A

Lies below mean low water mark
Composed mainly of marine sediments
Represents the sea ward growth of the delta

180
Q

How are deltas crisscrossed ?

A

By a branching network of distributaries

181
Q

What is a distributary ?

A

Small branching stream channels that flow away from a main stream or river

182
Q

What are the three types of delta ?

A

Cúlpate
Árcate
Birds foot

183
Q

What is a cuspate delta ?

A

Pointed extension to the coastline occurs when sediment accumulates but this is shaped by regular , gentle currents from opposite directions

184
Q

What is an arcuate delta ?

A

Sufficient sediment supply available for the delta to grow seawards , but wave action is strong nough to smooth and trim its leading edge

185
Q

What is a birds foot delta ?

A

Distributaries build out from the coast in a branching pattern , with river sediment supply exceeding rates of removal by waves and currents

186
Q

How do deltas and distributes form spits ?

A

Sediment that is deposited by distributaries at the river mouth forms promontories which are a source sediment for longshore drift

187
Q

What is the case study for the low energy coastline ?

A

Nile delta , Egypt

188
Q

Where do the summer prevailing winds come from in the Nile delta ?

A

From north west

189
Q

How much of the time and what is the surface velovcity of prevailing wind ?

A

60% of the time with a surface velocity of up to 13.5 cm/s in summer

190
Q

How does longshore drift affect the Nile delta ?

A

Moves sediment from the Rosetta distribritutary brought from the Nile along the delta eastwards

191
Q

What creates many beaches west of Abu air head with crescentic bars ?

A

Perpendicular wave due to wind approaching the coast directly before the delta , resulting in no longshore drift but a strong rip currentwhich creates the beaches

192
Q

Where does the winter prevailing wind come from and what percentage of the year ?

A

NE and 8%

193
Q

When was Aswan dam built ?

A

1964

194
Q

What did the Aswan dam distrust ?

A

The equilibrium of the delta system - erosion v accretion

195
Q

What has the Aswan dam resulted in ?

A

Reduction in the amount of deposition from 120 millions t/yr to trace amounts
Leading to accelerated erosion rates of up to 148m/yr

196
Q

How much is the meditteranean sea rising per year ?

A

1.2mm/yr which increases energy levels

197
Q

Where do spits form on the Nile delta ?

A

East of Abu qir they grow parallel to the delta and extend across the nearshore enclosing sections of the coastline to form lagoons

198
Q

How do lagoons form into slat marshes ?

A

They fill up with alluvial deposits
Due to the facts that lagoons are sheltered areas and low energy environment

199
Q

What type of delta is the Nile delta ?

A

Arcuate

200
Q

Where do distributaries start at the Nile Ella ?

A

At Cairo , 160km inland

201
Q

What are the two main distributaries in the Nile delta ?

A

Rosetta and Damietta

202
Q

Would would happen to the delta pre Aswan dam ?

A

It would flood every year to deposit silt , the depth of this alluvium is greater than 9m inn the delta

203
Q

How long is the river Nile ?

A

6650km (largest in world)

204
Q

What is the discharge of the river Nile ?

A

Low discharge

205
Q

What is the sediment load of the river Nile ?

A

4.26t/ha/yr

206
Q

Where does water in the river Nile originate from ?

A

From the Ethiopian summer monsoon rains

207
Q

What will happen to the Nile delta if there is a 50cm increase in sea level

A

4 million people affected
1,800km squared of land submerged

208
Q

What will happen to the Nile delta if there is a sea level rise of 1.5m ?

A

8 million people afffected
5,700 Kim squared of land submerged

209
Q

How much will the sea level rise by 2100 (Nile delta )?

A

A 60 to 100cm rise

210
Q

Name 3 landforms found east of Abu qir headland ?

A

Bars , spits , lagoons

211
Q

What is the case study of a high energy coastline in the uk ?

A

Saltburn to flamborough head

212
Q

Where do waves come fro and what is the fetch at subcell 1 d?

A

North and north east
Fetch over 1500km

213
Q

At Whitby bay what are the wave heights like ? sub cell 1d

A

Can exceed 4m

214
Q

Where is wave energy concentrated at subcell 1d ?

A

On exposed north facing parts like saltburn
Varied energy due to wave refraction creates varied erosion rates

215
Q

What direction does longshore drift move sediment (saltburn - flamborough head )?

A

From north to south

216
Q

What type of rocks are the north York moors made up of ?

A

Up to 400 m above sea level
Made up og sandstone , shale formed in Jurassic period but also some Carboniferous rock

217
Q

Give some example of Carboniferous rocks on the north York moors ?

A

Coal measures
Millstone grit
Mountain limestone

218
Q

What is the geology like at flamborough head ?

A

Large chalk headland and cliffs topped with till (glacial deposits )

219
Q

What are the erosion rates of shale (weak) and clay ? (Flamborough head )

A

0.6 m per year

220
Q

What is th erosion rates of sandstone (resistant ) and limestone ? (Sub cell 1 d)

A

Less than 0.1m per yr

221
Q

What sediment cell is salt burn to flamborough head ?

A

Sediment cell 1 , sub cell 1d

222
Q

What are the sources of sediment along slatburn to flamborough head ?

A

Cliff erosion
River elk (mouth at Whitby)
Nearshore deposits laid dow during ice age and being driven onshore as sea levels rise

223
Q

Where does sediment mainly occur along subcell 1d ?

A

Filey brigg

224
Q

How do tides affect the coastline at sub cell 1d ?

A

Weak and low tides result in deposition
Waves can attack a larger section of the cliffs

225
Q

Give some examples of coastal landforms at subcell 1d ?

A

Over 50 geos facing the dominant wave direction
Blowholes north of selwicks bay
Green stacks pinnacle - stack

226
Q

Why does the coastline of sub cell 1d have so few beaches ?

A

Deposits of sediment accumulate slowly acrosss coastline due to low input of sediment from rivers and slow erosion of rocks
Due to high energy waves from North Sea , sediment removed b4 it has chance to establish a developed beach

227
Q

Give an example of a shore platform on sub cell 1d ?

A

Robin hoods bay

228
Q

Wha is the height of chalk cliffs at flamborough head ?

A

20-30 m