Chapter 20 Flashcards
_______ gives you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave and curl pattern, thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible
Chemical Hair Texture Sevices
Without a thorough understanding of ______, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves
Chemistry
What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage?
Cuticle
Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair?
Cortex
Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?
Medulla
The term pH is an abbreviation used for ____ and the symbol pH represents the quantity of ____ ions in solution
Hydrogen
The ____ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains
pH Scale
The range of numbers used in the pH scale is
0-14
Chemical hair texturized temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to
Soften and swell the shaft
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is
Highly Alkaline
What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?
Amino Acids, Peptide Bonds, Polypeptide Chains, Keratin Proteins, and Side Bonds
Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?
Amino Acids
Which chemical bonds aka end bonds, join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?
Peptide Bonds
What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end to end like beads?
Keratin Proteins
The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are ____
Disulfide, Salt, and Hydrogen
What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together?
Disulfide Bonds
Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical change and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____
Salt Bonds
_________ is a two step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Permanent Waving
What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?
The size of the rod
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _____
Wrapping Method
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called ______
Reduction
In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _________
Hydrogen
What are the most common reducing agent used in permanent waving?
Thioglycolic Acids
The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determines do primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or this
Strength
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _________
Ammonium Thioglyodate
What is the factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?
Degree of Alkalinity
Alkaline waves aka _______ we’re developed in 1941
Cold Waves
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____
9-9.6
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotion?
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _______
Activator
Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between ____
7.8-8.2
Modern acid waves are actually _______ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7 or neutral pH
Acid Balanced
Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____
Processing
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood type dryer are ________ waves
Endothermic
_________ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use
Ammonia Free
It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean _______
Damage Free
What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cyst examine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?
Thio Free
_______ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfates, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves
Low pH
In permanent waving, most of the process takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first _____
5-10 Minutes
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered ________
Over processed
Over processed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including breakage
Straighter
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form called ________
Thio Neutralization
What is the most common neutralizer?
Hydrogen Peroxide
What is the most common type of perm rod?
Concave Rods
What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?
Straight Rods
What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod?
Soft Bender Rods
_______ aka circle rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop
Loop Rods
The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends
Double Flat Wrap
The _______ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand
Single Flat Wrap
The ______ uses one end paper folded over the hair ends like an envelope
Bookend Wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____
Panels
In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called ______
Base Sections
________ refers to the positions of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base Placements
Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional ______
Strength & tension of the hair
_________ minimized stress and tension on the hair
Half-Off Base Placement
The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned in the head is referred to as ______
Base Direction
The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________
Croquignole and Spiral
In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric layers
End to the scalp
In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod
Spiral Perm Wrap
What is another name for the double rod wrap technique?
Piggyback Wrap
The ______ aka as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases
Piggyback Wrap
Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?
Curvature Permanent Wrap
Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to bend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern?
Bricklayer Permanent Wrap
What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zig zag partings to divide base areas?
Weave Technique
Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _______
Abrasions
Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for ________ and will not hold a curl
Permanent Waving
_______ often found in home coloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage
Metallic Salts
What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straightener or smoother form?
Chemical Hair Relaxing
_______ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows
Viscosity
_______ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing
Japanese Thermal Straightener
What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?
Hydrogen Ion
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with ________
Thio Relaxers
Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a ________
Lanthionine Bond
Which relaxer contains only one components and is used without mixing.
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____
Lye Relaxers
Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and so,d as no mix lye relaxers?
Potassium Hydroxide Relaxers
Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _______
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
What is a Hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?
No Base Relaxer
The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of ______
Hydroxide
During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _______
Insufficiently Relaxed
Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hairs natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer?
Normalizing Lotion
Keratin straightening treatments work by _______ in a semi-permanent manner
Fixing the keratin in place
A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods in a ______
Soft Curl Permanent
Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area?
Back of the head
Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat but reform as the hair is ____
Dried
