Chapter 20

Question 1

_______ gives you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave and curl pattern, thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible

Answer 1

Chemical Hair Texture Sevices

Question 2

Without a thorough understanding of ______, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves

Answer 2

Chemistry

Question 3

What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage?

Answer 3

Cuticle

Question 4

Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair?

Answer 4

Cortex

Question 5

Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?

Answer 5

Medulla

Question 6

The term pH is an abbreviation used for ____ and the symbol pH represents the quantity of ____ ions in solution

Answer 6

Hydrogen

Question 7

The ____ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains

Answer 7

pH Scale

Question 8

The range of numbers used in the pH scale is

Answer 8

0-14

Question 9

Chemical hair texturized temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to

Answer 9

Soften and swell the shaft

Question 10

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is

Answer 10

Highly Alkaline

Question 11

What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?

Answer 11

Amino Acids, Peptide Bonds, Polypeptide Chains, Keratin Proteins, and Side Bonds

Question 12

Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?

Answer 12

Amino Acids

Question 13

Which chemical bonds aka end bonds, join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?

Answer 13

Peptide Bonds

Question 14

What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end to end like beads?

Answer 14

Keratin Proteins

Question 15

The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are ____

Answer 15

Disulfide, Salt, and Hydrogen

Question 16

What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together?

Answer 16

Disulfide Bonds

Question 17

Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical change and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____

Answer 17

Salt Bonds

Question 18

_________ is a two step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

Answer 18

Permanent Waving

Question 19

What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?

Answer 19

The size of the rod

Question 20

In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _____

Answer 20

Wrapping Method

Question 21

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called ______

Answer 21

Reduction

Question 22

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _________

Answer 22

Hydrogen

Question 23

What are the most common reducing agent used in permanent waving?

Answer 23

Thioglycolic Acids

Question 24

The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determines do primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or this

Answer 24

Strength

Question 25

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _________

Answer 25

Ammonium Thioglyodate

Question 26

What is the factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?

Answer 26

Degree of Alkalinity

Question 27

Alkaline waves aka _______ we’re developed in 1941

Answer 27

Cold Waves

Question 28

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____

Answer 28

9-9.6

Question 29

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotion?

Answer 29

Glyceryl Monothioglycolate

Question 30

All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _______

Answer 30

Activator

Question 31

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between ____

Answer 31

7.8-8.2

Question 32

Modern acid waves are actually _______ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7 or neutral pH

Answer 32

Acid Balanced

Question 33

Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____

Answer 33

Processing

Question 34

Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood type dryer are ________ waves

Answer 34

Endothermic

Question 35

_________ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use

Answer 35

Ammonia Free

Question 36

It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean _______

Answer 36

Damage Free

Question 37

What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cyst examine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?

Answer 37

Thio Free

Question 38

_______ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfates, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves

Answer 38

Low pH

Question 39

In permanent waving, most of the process takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first _____

Answer 39

5-10 Minutes

Question 40

Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered ________

Answer 40

Over processed

Question 41

Over processed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including breakage

Answer 41

Straighter

Question 42

The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form called ________

Answer 42

Thio Neutralization

Question 43

What is the most common neutralizer?

Answer 43

Hydrogen Peroxide

Question 44

What is the most common type of perm rod?

Answer 44

Concave Rods

Question 45

What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?

Answer 45

Straight Rods

Question 46

What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod?

Answer 46

Soft Bender Rods

Question 47

_______ aka circle rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop

Answer 47

Loop Rods

Question 48

The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends

Answer 48

Double Flat Wrap

Question 49

The _______ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand

Answer 49

Single Flat Wrap

Question 50

The ______ uses one end paper folded over the hair ends like an envelope

Answer 50

Bookend Wrap

Question 51

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____

Answer 51

Panels

Question 52

In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called ______

Answer 52

Base Sections

Question 53

________ refers to the positions of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

Answer 53

Base Placements

Question 54

Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional ______

Answer 54

Strength & tension of the hair

Question 55

_________ minimized stress and tension on the hair

Answer 55

Half-Off Base Placement

Question 56

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned in the head is referred to as ______

Answer 56

Base Direction

Question 57

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________

Answer 57

Croquignole and Spiral

Question 58

In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric layers

Answer 58

End to the scalp

Question 59

In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod

Answer 59

Spiral Perm Wrap

Question 60

What is another name for the double rod wrap technique?

Answer 60

Piggyback Wrap

Question 61

The ______ aka as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases

Answer 61

Piggyback Wrap

Question 62

Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?

Answer 62

Curvature Permanent Wrap

Question 63

Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to bend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern?

Answer 63

Bricklayer Permanent Wrap

Question 64

What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zig zag partings to divide base areas?

Answer 64

Weave Technique

Question 65

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _______

Answer 65

Abrasions

Question 66

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for ________ and will not hold a curl

Answer 66

Permanent Waving

Question 67

_______ often found in home coloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage

Answer 67

Metallic Salts

Question 68

What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straightener or smoother form?

Answer 68

Chemical Hair Relaxing

Question 69

_______ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows

Answer 69

Viscosity

Question 70

_______ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

Answer 70

Japanese Thermal Straightener

Question 71

What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?

Answer 71

Hydrogen Ion

Question 72

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with ________

Answer 72

Thio Relaxers

Question 73

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a ________

Answer 73

Lanthionine Bond

Question 74

Which relaxer contains only one components and is used without mixing.

Answer 74

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

Question 75

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____

Answer 75

Lye Relaxers

Question 76

Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and so,d as no mix lye relaxers?

Answer 76

Potassium Hydroxide Relaxers

Question 77

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _______

Answer 77

Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers

Question 78

What is a Hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?

Answer 78

No Base Relaxer

Question 79

The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of ______

Answer 79

Hydroxide

Question 80

During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _______

Answer 80

Insufficiently Relaxed

Question 81

Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hairs natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer?

Answer 81

Normalizing Lotion

Question 82

Keratin straightening treatments work by _______ in a semi-permanent manner

Answer 82

Fixing the keratin in place

Question 83

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods in a ______

Answer 83

Soft Curl Permanent

Question 84

Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area?

Answer 84

Back of the head

Question 85

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat but reform as the hair is ____

Answer 85

Dried