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Theory Class > Chapter 20 > Flashcards

Chapter 20 Flashcards

1
Q

_______ gives you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave and curl pattern, thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible

A

Chemical Hair Texture Sevices

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2
Q

Without a thorough understanding of ______, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves

A

Chemistry

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3
Q

What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage?

A

Cuticle

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4
Q

Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair?

A

Cortex

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5
Q

Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?

A

Medulla

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6
Q

The term pH is an abbreviation used for ____ and the symbol pH represents the quantity of ____ ions in solution

A

Hydrogen

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7
Q

The ____ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains

A

pH Scale

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8
Q

The range of numbers used in the pH scale is

A

0-14

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9
Q

Chemical hair texturized temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to

A

Soften and swell the shaft

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10
Q

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is

A

Highly Alkaline

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11
Q

What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?

A

Amino Acids, Peptide Bonds, Polypeptide Chains, Keratin Proteins, and Side Bonds

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12
Q

Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?

A

Amino Acids

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13
Q

Which chemical bonds aka end bonds, join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?

A

Peptide Bonds

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14
Q

What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end to end like beads?

A

Keratin Proteins

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15
Q

The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are ____

A

Disulfide, Salt, and Hydrogen

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16
Q

What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together?

A

Disulfide Bonds

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17
Q

Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical change and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____

A

Salt Bonds

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18
Q

_________ is a two step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

A

Permanent Waving

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19
Q

What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?

A

The size of the rod

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20
Q

In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _____

A

Wrapping Method

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21
Q

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called ______

A

Reduction

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22
Q

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _________

A

Hydrogen

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23
Q

What are the most common reducing agent used in permanent waving?

A

Thioglycolic Acids

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24
Q

The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determines do primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or this

A

Strength

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25
Q

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _________

A

Ammonium Thioglyodate

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26
Q

What is the factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?

A

Degree of Alkalinity

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27
Q

Alkaline waves aka _______ we’re developed in 1941

A

Cold Waves

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28
Q

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____

A

9-9.6

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29
Q

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotion?

A

Glyceryl Monothioglycolate

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30
Q

All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _______

A

Activator

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31
Q

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between ____

A

7.8-8.2

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32
Q

Modern acid waves are actually _______ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7 or neutral pH

A

Acid Balanced

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33
Q

Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____

A

Processing

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34
Q

Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood type dryer are ________ waves

A

Endothermic

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35
Q

_________ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use

A

Ammonia Free

36
Q

It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean _______

A

Damage Free

37
Q

What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cyst examine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?

A

Thio Free

38
Q

_______ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfates, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves

A

Low pH

39
Q

In permanent waving, most of the process takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first _____

A

5-10 Minutes

40
Q

Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered ________

A

Over processed

41
Q

Over processed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including breakage

A

Straighter

42
Q

The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form called ________

A

Thio Neutralization

43
Q

What is the most common neutralizer?

A

Hydrogen Peroxide

44
Q

What is the most common type of perm rod?

A

Concave Rods

45
Q

What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?

A

Straight Rods

46
Q

What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod?

A

Soft Bender Rods

47
Q

_______ aka circle rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop

A

Loop Rods

48
Q

The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends

A

Double Flat Wrap

49
Q

The _______ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand

A

Single Flat Wrap

50
Q

The ______ uses one end paper folded over the hair ends like an envelope

A

Bookend Wrap

51
Q

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____

A

Panels

52
Q

In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called ______

A

Base Sections

53
Q

________ refers to the positions of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

A

Base Placements

54
Q

Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional ______

A

Strength & tension of the hair

55
Q

_________ minimized stress and tension on the hair

A

Half-Off Base Placement

56
Q

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned in the head is referred to as ______

A

Base Direction

57
Q

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________

A

Croquignole and Spiral

58
Q

In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric layers

A

End to the scalp

59
Q

In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod

A

Spiral Perm Wrap

60
Q

What is another name for the double rod wrap technique?

A

Piggyback Wrap

61
Q

The ______ aka as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases

A

Piggyback Wrap

62
Q

Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?

A

Curvature Permanent Wrap

63
Q

Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to bend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern?

A

Bricklayer Permanent Wrap

64
Q

What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zig zag partings to divide base areas?

A

Weave Technique

65
Q

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _______

A

Abrasions

66
Q

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for ________ and will not hold a curl

A

Permanent Waving

67
Q

_______ often found in home coloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage

A

Metallic Salts

68
Q

What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straightener or smoother form?

A

Chemical Hair Relaxing

69
Q

_______ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows

A

Viscosity

70
Q

_______ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

A

Japanese Thermal Straightener

71
Q

What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?

A

Hydrogen Ion

72
Q

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with ________

A

Thio Relaxers

73
Q

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a ________

A

Lanthionine Bond

74
Q

Which relaxer contains only one components and is used without mixing.

A

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

75
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____

A

Lye Relaxers

76
Q

Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and so,d as no mix lye relaxers?

A

Potassium Hydroxide Relaxers

77
Q

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _______

A

Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers

78
Q

What is a Hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?

A

No Base Relaxer

79
Q

The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of ______

A

Hydroxide

80
Q

During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _______

A

Insufficiently Relaxed

81
Q

Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hairs natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer?

A

Normalizing Lotion

82
Q

Keratin straightening treatments work by _______ in a semi-permanent manner

A

Fixing the keratin in place

83
Q

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods in a ______

A

Soft Curl Permanent

84
Q

Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area?

A

Back of the head

85
Q

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat but reform as the hair is ____

A

Dried

Theory Class (16 decks)

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