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Geography > Theme 2 - Coasts > Flashcards

Theme 2 - Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

wave formation

trough

A

the lowest part of the wave

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2
Q

wave formation

crest

A

the highest part of the wave

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3
Q

wave formation

wave length

A

the horizontal distance between the crests/troughs of two consecutive waves

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4
Q

wave formation

wave height

A

the distance between the crest and the trough of a wave

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5
Q

constructive wave

A
  • beach builders
  • long wavelength + low height
  • low frequency (6-8 per minute)
  • shallow wave gradient
  • low energy
  • stronger swash that carries material up onto beach and deposits
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6
Q

destructive wave

A
  • erode the beach
  • short wavelength + high height
  • high frequency (10-12 per minute)
  • steep wave gradient
  • high energy
  • strong backwash that drags materials out to sea
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7
Q

processes of erosion

hydraulic action

A

the sheer force of waves hitting the coast

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8
Q

processes of erosion

abrasion

A

waves pick up material and hurl it at the coast

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9
Q

processes of erosion

corrosion / solution

A

seawater is slightly acidic and can dissolve some coastal rock e.g. limestone

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10
Q

processes of erosion

attrition

A

material bump against each other, gradually becoming smaller and smoother

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11
Q

coastal weathering

biological weathering

A

the process by which rocks are broken down by living organisms

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12
Q

coastal weathering

physical weathering

A

when rocks are affected by physical environmental factors like wind, water, and temperature changes

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13
Q

coastal weathering

chemical weathering

A

a process that breaks down rocks by changing their chemical composition through the interaction of air, water, or acid

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14
Q

coastal transportation

swash

A

the movement of water up the beach

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15
Q

coastal transportation

which direction does swash go in?

A

the direction of prevailing wind

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16
Q

coastal transportation

backwash

A

the return movement of water back out to sea

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17
Q

coastal transportation

what direction does backwash go in?

A

in the direction of gravity

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18
Q

coastal transportation

longshore drift

A

main process of transportation along the coast

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19
Q

process of longshore drift explained

A
  1. Waves approach the beach at an angle due to
    prevailing wind
  2. swash carries material up the beach at the same angle
  3. As swash dies away, backwash carries the material down the beach at right angles (90°)
  4. The process repeats, transporting material along the beach in a zig-zag movement
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20
Q

how does coastal deposition work?

A
  • heaviest particles deposit first
  • material comes from erosion along coast
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21
Q

Cave, Arch, Stack, Stump explanation

A
  1. A crack in the cliff forms due to erosion
  2. As crack widens, erosion will act to form a cave
  3. The cave will become larger and eventually break through the headland to form an arch
  4. Due to weathering from above and erosion below, the arch’s foundation continues getting thinner and wider
  5. Eventually, the roof of the arch collapses, leaving behind an isolated column of rock called a stack
  6. The stack is undercut at the base by wave action and sub-aerial weathering above, until it collapses to form a stump
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22
Q

headlands and bays explanation

A
  1. Found in areas of alternating bands of resistant (hard) and less resistant (soft) rocks (discordant coastline)
    2, Initially, less resistant rock (e.g. clay) is eroded back, forming a bay
    3, The more resistant rock (e.g. limestone) is left protruding out to sea as a headland
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23
Q

Wave cut platform and cliff retreat explanation

A
  1. ‘wave-cut notch’ -> where the wave has undercut the rock
  2. Abrasion, corrosion and hydraulic action further undercut the rock
  3. the cliff above becomes unstable, eventually collapsing
  4. backwash carries away the eroded material, leaving behind a wave-cut platform
  5. The process repeats and the cliff continues to retreat, leading to a coastal retreat
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24
Q

when is the erosion rate highest?

A

at high tide

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25
Q

where does erosion occur?

A

high energy regions

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26
Q

why does erosion occur?

A

when there is a stronger backwash than swash

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27
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

Spit formation explanation

A

SPIT = an expanse of sand or shingle that stretches from the shore out to sea

Spits occur when:
- a change in the shape of the coastline leads to a loss of energy, causing deposition of material

A spit may or may not have a ‘hooked’ end, depending on the winds and currents

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28
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

Beach formation explained

A
  1. Form in sheltered places like bays
  2. Constructive wave action causes deposition, with the swash being stronger than the backwash
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29
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

Bar formation explained

A

BAR = when a spit grows across a bay and joins two headlands together

  • A bar of sand is formed (sandbar)
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30
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

tombolo

A

when a spit joins the mainland to an island

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31
Q

coastal deposition landforms

barrier island

A
  • form parallel to the coast
  • difference between a bar and barrier island = bar joins two headlands, whereas a barrier island is open at one or both ends
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32
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

marsh

A

a type of wetland, or low-lying area of land that is often covered with water

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33
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

sand dune formation explanation

A

1, Windblown sand is deposited against an obstruction, such as a pebble or driftwood
2. As more sand particles are caught, the dunes grow in size, forming rows at right angles to the prevailing wind

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34
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

embyro dune

A
  • Deposition starts when debris or rubbish traps wind-blown dried sand
  • Pioneer species such as Lyme Grass and Sea Couch Grass begin to colonise
  • There is little soil content and high pH levels (alkaline)
  • Embryo dunes are very fragile
  • maximum is 1 metre
35
Q

fore dune

A
  • he embryo dunes give some protection against the prevailing wind
  • other species of plant can therefore grow, such as Marram Grass
  • Marram grass stabilises the dune with its root system
  • These add organic matter to the dunes, making them more hospitable for plants
  • A microclimate forms in the dune slack
  • Maximum is 5 metres
36
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

slack

A

hollow or shallow area between two stretches of rising ground

37
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

yellow dune

A
  • initially yellow, but darken
  • Marram grass still dominates vegetation, but delicate flowering plants and insects are found in the dune slacks
  • 20% of the dune is exposed, down from 80%
  • do not exceed 8 metres
38
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

grey dune

A
  • more stable, less than 10% of exposed sand, good range of biodiversity
  • Soil acidity + water content increase
  • Shrubs and bushes begin to appear
  • between 8 and 10 metres
39
Q

coastal depositonal landforms

mature dune

A
  • oldest and most stable of the dunes
  • several hundred metres or more from the shoreline
  • soil can support a variety of flora and fauna
40
Q

where does deposition occur?

A

low energy regions

not enough energy to carry material

41
Q

why does definition occur?

A

when there is a stronger swash than backwash

42
Q

erosional hazards

A
  • loss of farmland
  • loss of infrastructure
  • loss of housing
43
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Recurved Sea Walls

A

reflect wave energy back out to sea

disadvantage -> damaging to visual landscape and restrict access to beach

44
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Groynes

A

wooden barrier built to prevent longshore drift

disadvantage -> can cause a lack of sediment elsewhere

45
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Breakwaters

A

artificial structures made of rock, built parallel to the shore.

  • protect against waves, tides, currents, and storm surges
46
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Rip-rap

A

rocks uses to armor shorelines from erosion

47
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Gabions

A

coastal defences that consist of rocks and boulders encased in a wired mesh

48
Q

coastal erosion management - HARD ENGINEERING

Revetments

A

sloping structures built on shorelines to absorb and dissipate the energy of waves in order to reduce coastal erosion.

49
Q

coastal erosion management - SOFT ENGINEERING

dune stabilisation

A

coastal management practice that prevents the erosion of sand dunes and protects the coastline from flooding

50
Q

coastal erosion management - SOFT ENGINEERING

clife regrading / vegetating

A

cliff regrading - reducing the slope of a cliff, making it less liable to collapse

cliff vegetating - planting vegetation on the cliff to stabilise the soil

51
Q

coastal erosion management - SOFT ENGINEERING

beach nourishment

A

adding sediment to an eroding beach to maintain its width and protect it from erosion and storm damage

52
Q

coastal erosion management - SOFT ENGINEERING

cliff drainage

A

reducing the risk of cliff collapse and landslips by removing water from the cliff face

53
Q

coral reef types

fringing reef

A

a coral reef that lies close to the shore, separated by a shallow lagoon

54
Q

coral reef types

barrier reef

A

a coral reef close and running parallel to the shore but separated from it by a channel of deep water.

55
Q

coral reef types

atoll

A

a ring-shaped coral island that encircles a lagoon

56
Q

coral reef development

coral

A

small, soft-bodied polyps that secrete calcium carbonate to form a hard skeleton

found 30 degrees north + south of equator

57
Q

coral reef development

polyp

A

tiny, soft-bodied animal that secretes calcium carbonate, which forms the skeletal structure of coral

have algae zooxanthellae inside -> gives coral colour

58
Q

coral reef development

biodiversity

A

the range and variety of different species of organisms on Earth, or within an ecosystem

59
Q

coral reef development

conditions needed for coral growth

A
  • 23-25 degree temp
  • clear, shallow saltwater (no deeper than 50m)
  • lots of sunlight to aid photosynthesis
  • no plants that can take up oxygen
60
Q

coral reef development

global reef locations

A

30 degrees north and south of equator

61
Q

coral reef development

environmental threats to coral reefs

A

climate change -> warmer temps -> gets rid of zooxanthellae algae -> corals lose colour (CORAL BLEACHING)

rising sea levels -> coral needs shallow water to thrive

trash such as plastic bags destroying sea life, altering food webs

overfishing alters food webs

62
Q

coral reef development

socioeconomic threats to coral reefs

A
  • tourism
  • human activities causing water pollution
  • destructive fishing practices like dynamite harm coral
63
Q

coral reef management

conservation

A

Planting nursery-grown corals back onto reefs

64
Q

coral reef management

benefits of maintaining reefs

A

supports clearer waters and healthier marine environments

65
Q

coral reef management

hazards of removal

A
  • home to over a million species of marine life, without coral they would die
  • Dredging can also degrade coral habitats through noise, remobilization of contaminants, and sedimentation
66
Q

mangroves development

mangroves

A

a tree or shrub which grows in tropical coastal swamps

67
Q

mangroves development

lenticels

A

tiny pores in the bark and roots of mangrove trees that allow oxygen to enter the plant

68
Q

mangroves development

conditions needed for mangrove growth

A
  • temps above 19 degrees
  • fine grained alluvium soil
  • sheltered shorelines, such as bays
69
Q

mangroves development

global locations

A

tropical areas, mostly near the equator in Asia

70
Q

mangroves development

environmental threats to mangroves

A
  • extinctions due to climate change
  • roots of mangroves can be clogged by sediment and soil
71
Q

mangroves development

socioeconomic threats to mangroves

A
  • urbanisation
  • conversion of mangrove swamps for agriculture
72
Q

mangrove management

benefits of maintaining mangroves

A

provide natural infrastructure to help protect nearby populated areas by reducing erosion and absorbing storm surge impacts during extreme weather events such as hurricanes

73
Q

mangrove management

hazards of removal

A
  • Coastal areas without mangroves are more susceptible to erosion -> land loss + displacement of communities.
  • their absence exposes coastal settlements to greater risks from rising sea levels and extreme weather events
74
Q

tropical storm hazards

causes of tropical storms

A
  • ocean surface waters reaches at least 27°C due to solar heating -> warm air above water rises quickly, creating an area of very low pressure.
  • As air rises quickly more warm moist air is drawn upwards from above the ocean creating strong winds.
75
Q

tropical storm hazards

hazards of tropical storms

A

storm surge flooding
inland flooding from heavy rains
destructive winds
tornadoes
high surf and rip currents

76
Q

tropical storm hazards

responses to tropical storms

A

evacuation
rescue
providing temporary accommodation

77
Q

opportunities of living at the coast

A
  • tourism and leisure
  • fishing
  • aesthetic setting for residential
  • oil and gas
  • industrial trade + ports
78
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal opportunities & hazards at HOLDERNESS

Introduction

A
  • East coast of Yorkshire
  • runs for 61km
  • from flamborough head to spurn head
  • made of soft boulder clay and chalk
  • fastest eroding coastline in europe (2m per year)
79
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal opportunities & hazards at HOLDERNESS

opportunities

A
  • tourism opportunities (20 million annually) -> tourist resort at hornsea
  • chalk rocks are home to many bird species -> perfect for birdwatchers
  • holderness fishery represents largest lobster fishery in Europe
  • 1,900 tonnes of crab annually
  • boulder clay makes for fertile farmland
80
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal opportunities & hazards at HOLDERNESS

hazards

A
  • Great Cowden Farm has a lack of sediment due to groynes at Mappleton
  • Storm surges increasing in size due to rising sea levels and increasing wind strength
  • golden sands caravan park lost 100 caravans since 2010 due to cliff retreat -> economic loss
  • 23 villages and towns lost since roman times
  • incomes are low
81
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal management at HOLDERNESS

Introduction

A
  • East coast of Yorkshire
  • runs for 61km
  • from flamborough head to spurn head
  • made of soft boulder clay and chalk
  • fastest eroding coastline in europe (2m per year)
82
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal management at HOLDERNESS

causes

A
  • discordant coast line
  • destructive waves
  • fastest eroding coastline in Europe (2m per year)
83
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal management at HOLDERNESS

Hard Engineering

A

WITHERNSEA:
- sea wall
- rip rap

SKIPSEA:
- gabions

MAPPLETON:
- rock groynes

HORNSEA:
- concrete revetments

84
Q

CASE STUDY: coastal management at HOLDERNESS

Soft Engineering

A

MAPPLETON:
- cliff regrading

SPURN HEAD:
- managed retreat

HORNSEA:
- beach nourishment

Geography (16 decks)

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