Coasts - EQ1 - Why are coastal landscapes different and what processes cause these differences? Flashcards
Define Littoral Zone
area of shoreline where land is subject to wave action`
What are the 4 parts of the littoral zone
Offshore
Nearshore
Foreshore
Backshore
What is the order of the littoral zone, going inland
Offshore
Nearshore
Foreshore
Backshore
Define Offshore
area of deeper water beyond the point at which waves begin to break
Define Nearshore
- area of shallow water beyond the low tide mark,
- within which friction between the seabed and waves distorts the wave sufficiently,
- to cause it to break (breaker zone)
Define Foreshore
area between the high tide and low tide mark
Define Backshore
area above the high tide mark, affected by wave action only during major storm events
List some natural causes of changes to the littoral zone
- constructive and destructive waves
- sediment input from sea and rivers
- LSD
- tidal range - determines where wave action occurs
List some human changes to the littoral zone
dredging of offshore areas
dredging of rivers
building of coastal rivers
Coastal systems are in a state of D__________ E_________
Dynamic Equilibrium
Coasts are systems driven by ____ energy
wave
3 components of the coastal system
inputs
processes
outputs
What are the inputs to a coastal system
Marine
People
Land
Atmosphere
What are the processes in a coastal system
mass movement
weathering
erosion
deposition
transport
What are the outputs to a coastal system
erosional landforms
depositional landforms
different types of coasts
Coasts can be classified using
short and long term criteria
What are the long term changes which classify coasts
land level rise and fall (isostatic)
sea level rise and fall (eustatic)
geology
word for land level rise and fall
isostatic
word for sea level rise and fall
eustatic
What are the short term changes which classify coasts
erosion
deposition
wave type
wave energy
How are Igneous rocks formed
when hot molten rock crystallizes and solidifies
Features of Igneous rock
crystals, hard rock
Examples of Igneous rock
granite and basalt
How are Sedimentary rocks formed
dead biological matter or eroded weathered matter falls to the bed and are deposited in layers these become compact and cemented
Features of Sedimentary rock
layers
often contain fossils
range from hard to soft rock
Examples of sedimentary rock
sandstone
limestone
chalk
How are Metamorphic rocks formed
existing rocks are put under intense pressure and heat forming layers and bands of crystals
Features of Metamorphic rock
Layers
Crystals
Very hard rock
Examples of Metamorphic rock
schist
slate
What are the conditions to form Rocky Coasts (high relief)
-result from resistant geology to the erosive forces of sea, rain and wind often in a high energy environment
Waves in a low energy coast
less powerful, constructive, short fetches
What are the conditions to form Coast Plain Landscapes (sandy & estuarine coasts)
- found near areas of low relief
- result from the supply of sediment from different terrestrial and offshore sources
- often in low-energy environments
Waves in a high energy coast
more powerful, destructive, long fetches, storm conditions
Processes in a low energy coast
- deposition and transport of sediments from rivers
- LSD and nearshore currents
Processes in a high energy coast
- erosion and transport of sediment from eroded land
- mass movement
- weathering
- offshore currents
Landforms in a low energy coast
beaches, spits, salt marshes, sand dunes, bars
Landforms in a high energy coast
cliffs, wave-cut platforms, arches, caves, stack
General location of a low energy coast
sheltered from large waves
coastal plain landscapes
lowland coasts
General location of a high energy coast
exposed to larger waves
rocky landscapes
high and lowland coasts
example location of a low energy coast
East Anglian Coasts
example location of a high energy coast
Pacific coasts of Alaska and Canada
Features of constructive waves
low energy
occur in calm conditions
material is deposited building up coasts
Features of destructive waves
high energy
backwash stronger than swash which erodes the coast
What are the coastal morphology determiners
- relief & slope
- geology
- lithology
- rock permeability
- resistance / hard or soft rock
Define lithology
the general study of the physical characteristics of rocks e.g colour, texture, type
Define structure
- the study of permanent deformation & rock failure
- created by the changes in stress through geologic time
- e.g jointing, bedding, faulting, angle of dip
Define strata
layers of rock
Define bedding planes
horizontal cracks / natural breaks in the strata
Define joints
- vertical cracks/ fractures
- caused by contraction as sediments dry out or by earth movement
Define folds
formed by pressure during tectonic activity, which makes rocks crumble
Define faults
formed when the stress or pressure to which a rock is subjected, exceeds its internal strength (causing it to fracture)
Define dip
refers to the angle at which rock strata either horizontally or vertically, dips towards the sea or the land
Define coastal morphology
the shape & form of coastal landscapes & their features