Coasts - EQ1 - Why are coastal landscapes different and what processes cause these differences? Flashcards

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1
Q

Define Littoral Zone

A

area of shoreline where land is subject to wave action`

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2
Q

What are the 4 parts of the littoral zone

A

Offshore
Nearshore
Foreshore
Backshore

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3
Q

What is the order of the littoral zone, going inland

A

Offshore
Nearshore
Foreshore
Backshore

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4
Q

Define Offshore

A

area of deeper water beyond the point at which waves begin to break

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5
Q

Define Nearshore

A
  • area of shallow water beyond the low tide mark,
  • within which friction between the seabed and waves distorts the wave sufficiently,
  • to cause it to break (breaker zone)
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6
Q

Define Foreshore

A

area between the high tide and low tide mark

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7
Q

Define Backshore

A

area above the high tide mark, affected by wave action only during major storm events

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8
Q

List some natural causes of changes to the littoral zone

A
  • constructive and destructive waves
  • sediment input from sea and rivers
  • LSD
  • tidal range - determines where wave action occurs
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9
Q

List some human changes to the littoral zone

A

dredging of offshore areas
dredging of rivers
building of coastal rivers

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10
Q

Coastal systems are in a state of D__________ E_________

A

Dynamic Equilibrium

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11
Q

Coasts are systems driven by ____ energy

A

wave

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12
Q

3 components of the coastal system

A

inputs
processes
outputs

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13
Q

What are the inputs to a coastal system

A

Marine
People
Land
Atmosphere

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14
Q

What are the processes in a coastal system

A

mass movement
weathering
erosion
deposition
transport

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15
Q

What are the outputs to a coastal system

A

erosional landforms
depositional landforms
different types of coasts

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16
Q

Coasts can be classified using

A

short and long term criteria

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17
Q

What are the long term changes which classify coasts

A

land level rise and fall (isostatic)
sea level rise and fall (eustatic)
geology

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18
Q

word for land level rise and fall

A

isostatic

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19
Q

word for sea level rise and fall

A

eustatic

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20
Q

What are the short term changes which classify coasts

A

erosion
deposition
wave type
wave energy

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21
Q

How are Igneous rocks formed

A

when hot molten rock crystallizes and solidifies

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22
Q

Features of Igneous rock

A

crystals, hard rock

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23
Q

Examples of Igneous rock

A

granite and basalt

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24
Q

How are Sedimentary rocks formed

A

dead biological matter or eroded weathered matter falls to the bed and are deposited in layers these become compact and cemented

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25
Q

Features of Sedimentary rock

A

layers
often contain fossils
range from hard to soft rock

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26
Q

Examples of sedimentary rock

A

sandstone
limestone
chalk

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27
Q

How are Metamorphic rocks formed

A

existing rocks are put under intense pressure and heat forming layers and bands of crystals

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28
Q

Features of Metamorphic rock

A

Layers
Crystals
Very hard rock

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29
Q

Examples of Metamorphic rock

A

schist
slate

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30
Q

What are the conditions to form Rocky Coasts (high relief)

A

-result from resistant geology to the erosive forces of sea, rain and wind often in a high energy environment

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31
Q

Waves in a low energy coast

A

less powerful, constructive, short fetches

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32
Q

What are the conditions to form Coast Plain Landscapes (sandy & estuarine coasts)

A
  • found near areas of low relief
  • result from the supply of sediment from different terrestrial and offshore sources
  • often in low-energy environments
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33
Q

Waves in a high energy coast

A

more powerful, destructive, long fetches, storm conditions

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34
Q

Processes in a low energy coast

A
  • deposition and transport of sediments from rivers
  • LSD and nearshore currents
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35
Q

Processes in a high energy coast

A
  • erosion and transport of sediment from eroded land
  • mass movement
  • weathering
  • offshore currents
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36
Q

Landforms in a low energy coast

A

beaches, spits, salt marshes, sand dunes, bars

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37
Q

Landforms in a high energy coast

A

cliffs, wave-cut platforms, arches, caves, stack

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38
Q

General location of a low energy coast

A

sheltered from large waves
coastal plain landscapes
lowland coasts

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39
Q

General location of a high energy coast

A

exposed to larger waves
rocky landscapes
high and lowland coasts

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40
Q

example location of a low energy coast

A

East Anglian Coasts

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41
Q

example location of a high energy coast

A

Pacific coasts of Alaska and Canada

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42
Q

Features of constructive waves

A

low energy
occur in calm conditions
material is deposited building up coasts

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43
Q

Features of destructive waves

A

high energy
backwash stronger than swash which erodes the coast

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44
Q

What are the coastal morphology determiners

A
  • relief & slope
  • geology
  • lithology
  • rock permeability
  • resistance / hard or soft rock
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45
Q

Define lithology

A

the general study of the physical characteristics of rocks e.g colour, texture, type

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46
Q

Define structure

A
  • the study of permanent deformation & rock failure
  • created by the changes in stress through geologic time
  • e.g jointing, bedding, faulting, angle of dip
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47
Q

Define strata

A

layers of rock

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48
Q

Define bedding planes

A

horizontal cracks / natural breaks in the strata

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49
Q

Define joints

A
  • vertical cracks/ fractures
  • caused by contraction as sediments dry out or by earth movement
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50
Q

Define folds

A

formed by pressure during tectonic activity, which makes rocks crumble

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51
Q

Define faults

A

formed when the stress or pressure to which a rock is subjected, exceeds its internal strength (causing it to fracture)

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52
Q

Define dip

A

refers to the angle at which rock strata either horizontally or vertically, dips towards the sea or the land

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53
Q

Define coastal morphology

A

the shape & form of coastal landscapes & their features

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54
Q

resistance of igneous rocks

A

very resistant

55
Q

erosion rate of igneous rocks

A

VERY SLOW – less than 0.1 cm per year.

56
Q

permeability of igneous rocks

A

impermeable - very few spaces of joints for water to pass through

57
Q

Describe the Internal Structure of Sedimentary Rocks

A
  • Most are CLASTIC (composed of sediment particles becoming cemented together).
  • Many cements are REACTIVE and easily chemical weathered.
  • BEDDING PLANES and JOINTS make them even more vulnerable to recession.
  • Geologically young rocks tend to be weaker.​
58
Q

resistance of sedimentary rocks

A

not very resistant

59
Q

erosion rate of sedimentary rocks

A

MODERATE TO FAST – 1-10 cm per year.

60
Q

permeability of sedimentary rocks

A

often porous - susceptible to weathering

61
Q

resistance of metamorphic rocks

A

very resistant

62
Q

erosion rate of metamorphic rocks

A

SLOW – 0.1-0.3 cm per year.

63
Q

permeability of metamorphic rocks

A

impermeable - very few spaces of joints for water to pass through

64
Q

Describe the Internal Structure of Metamorphic Rocks

A
  • Metamorphism can cause the grains to RECRYSTALLIZE into a very solid INTERLOCKING network.
  • These rocks are resistant.
  • Again, folding and faulting makes them less resistant than igneous rocks.
65
Q

Describe a discordant coastline

A

alternating bands of resistant (hard) and less resistant (soft) rock which are perpendicular to the coast

66
Q

What forms on discordant coastlines

A

headlands and bays

67
Q

Describe the Internal Structure of Igneous Rocks

A

CRYSTALLINE structure - Crystals INTERLOCK making the rock resistant.
FEW JOINTS (micro features) means there are limited weaknesses to exploit.​

68
Q

Describe a concordant coastline

A

same band of resistant (hard) rock which lies parallel to the coast

69
Q

What are the two types of concordant coastlines

A

Haff Coasts & Dalmatian Coasts

70
Q

Where are Haff coastlines formed

A

in low-energy environments where there is deposition of muds and sands

71
Q

Describe how Haff Coastlines are formed

A
  • These form where deposition produces unconsolidated geological structures parallel to the coastline
  • During the Devensian glacial the sea level was about 100 m lower than today as water was retained in huge ice sheets
  • Meltwater rivers on land beyond the ice front deposited thick layers of sand and gravels onto outwash plains (sandurs)
  • In the Holocene Interglacial constructive waves pushed the ride of sands and gravel landwards as sea levels rose
  • Sand ridge formed bars across some bays and river mouths, with trapped river water forming a lagoon behind (callled haffs in Poland on the Baltic Sea)
72
Q

Describe a feature of Haff Coastlines

A

Large lagoons are found behind the deposits parallel to the shoreline.

73
Q

Give an example of a Haff Coastline

A

The Baltic Sea coastline of Poland.

74
Q

How are Dalmatian coastlines formed

A
  1. Formed as a result of a rise in sea level.
  2. Valleys and ridges run parallel to each other.
  3. When the valleys flooded because of a rise in sea level, the tops of the ridges remained above the sea surface – as a series of offshore islands that run parallel.
75
Q

Give an example of a Dalmatian Coastline

A

Adriatic Sea, Croatia

76
Q

How are steep seaward dipping cliffs formed

A
  • rock slabs sliding down the cliff along the bedding planes
77
Q

How are seaward dipping cliffs formed

A
  • joints being opened by weathering & pressure to release slabs
78
Q

How are steep sided cliffs formed

A

formed in areas of horizontal layers or bedding planes

79
Q

How are stable, steep cliffs formed

A

when bedding planes dip inland

80
Q

How are side planes formed

A

when rocks dip inland with well developed joints at right angles to the bedding planes

81
Q

What is a micro-feature

A

small scale features which form part of a cliff profile

82
Q

Give examples of micro features

A

caves and blowholes

83
Q

how are micro features formed

A

form in areas weakened by heavy jointing, which have faster rates of erosion, enlarging the joint to form a sea cave

84
Q

describe the location of micro features

A

often controlled by the location of faults and/or strata which have a particularly high density of joints and folds.

85
Q

Define rate of recession

A

the speed at which the coastline is moving inland

86
Q

Coastal recession is caused by ………. factors (……. & …….)

A

Physical Factors (geological & marine)

87
Q

Coastal recession is caused by physical factors (geological & marine) but can be influenced by ……… factors (….. & …… )

A

Human Factors (dredging or coastal management)

88
Q

what does bedrock lithology consist of

A

igneous, metamorphic & sedimentary rock

89
Q

What decides how susceptible a rock is to erosion or weathering

A
  • the bedrock lithology
    or
  • the unconsolidated material geology such as rocks with cracks, joints and bedding planes
90
Q

Name the 4 coastal ecosystems

A

mangrove forests
coral reefs
sand dunes
saltmarshes

91
Q

name 2 low land coastal ecosystems

A

sand dunes & salt marshes

92
Q

To survive on coasts plants are often highly ________

A

specialised

93
Q

define halophytes

A

salt tolerant

94
Q

example of halophytes

A

Mangroves

95
Q

define xerophytes

A

drought tolerant (salt water is drying and sand does not retain water)

96
Q

example of xerophytes

A

Marram grass

97
Q

define psammophytes

A
  • grown in wind blown sand
  • can tolerate dry, salty conditions and being buried
98
Q

example of psammophytes

A

Sea Holly

99
Q

Define plant succession

A
  • means the changing structure of a plant community over time as an area of bare sediment is colonised
  • each step in this stage is called a seral stage
100
Q

define zonation

A

how ecosystems change spatially away from the shoreline

101
Q

define pioneer species

A

the first hand species to have colonised areas of exposed sediment

102
Q

define climax communities

A

the final stage of succession with the greatest biodiversity

103
Q

Where are salt marshes found

A
  • In low energy environments, like estuaries or sheltered bays
  • they can also be found in creeks & a the edges of estuaries & behind a spit
104
Q

What is flocculation

A
  • once fine muds and silts are deposited,
  • the tiny particles stick together to create thicker mud/ sediment
105
Q

How does vegetation change the conditions of salt marshes

A
  • Overtime, the plants change the conditions, by trapping more sediment
  • which builds the salt marsh up to a higher level,
  • so that other plants can colonise.
106
Q

Vegetation in salt marshes also provides…

A

ecosystems for wildlife

107
Q

Describe the lower part of the salt marsh

A

Its underwater for longer periods of time & only pioneer halophytic plants may grow here

108
Q

How do salt marshes help to stabilise coastal landscapes

A
  • Found behind estuaries & creeks
  • minimal erosion, & more deposition, so an increase in flocculation
  • builds saltmarsh up to a higher level so plants can colonise e.g halophytes & green algae
  • these absorb wave energy, preventing erosion; & creates habitats for wildlife which will encourage depositional processes via movement
  • therefore, halophytes create a self sustaining vegetation cycle, which stabilises the landscape via habitat creation and flocculation
109
Q

Named location example of a salt marsh

A

Walton on the Naze

110
Q

Where can mangrove plants be found

A
  • Along the intertidal zones of coastlines in tropical & subtropical areas,
  • which can experience extremely destructive waves, high energy environments
111
Q

What do mangroves reduce

A
  • the height & energy of wind
  • & swell waves passing through them,
  • reducing their ability to erode sediments
  • & to cause damage to structures such as sea walls
112
Q

Describe how mangroves reduce the height & energy of wind & swell waves

A
  • During rising tides, as the sea comes in, waves enter the mangrove forests.
  • They lose energy as they pass through the tangled above-ground roots & branches, so the waves height is rapidly diminished,
  • by between 13 & 66 % over 100m of mangroves.
  • As this happens, waves lose their ability to scour the sea-bed & carry away sediments
113
Q

What type of plants are mangroves

A

halophytes

114
Q

Why is it important that mangroves are halophytes

A

It means they can help to resist erosional processes in many hostile tropical coastal environments, as they have salt-tolerant properties

115
Q

Give a named historical example of Mangroves stabilising an estuarine environment

A
  • The Boxing Day tsunami of 2004
  • Only 2 people were killed in a Sri Lankan village with dense mangrove coverage,
  • but up to 6,000 lost their lives in a near by village no longer protected by similar vegetation
116
Q

What are the characteristics of mangroves

A
  • root systems - allow trees to withstand the ebb & flow of daily tides
  • also act as buffers, slowing the flow of tidal waters,
  • allowing nutrients to settle & build up as nutrient-rich mud
  • provides habitats - valuable shelter & breeding sites for fish
117
Q

What are the 6 stages of sand dune succession

A

Berm
Embryo
Fore
Yellow
Grey
Mature

118
Q

How do sand dunes develop to stabilise estuarine environments

A
  • Bare ground (rock, sand dunes, salt marshes & mud flats) are gradually colonised by plants - pioneer species
  • These species begin the process of plant succession,
  • during which other species invade & take over until a balance is reached
119
Q

How do pioneer plants stabilise sand dunes
by binding sand or soil

A

They modify the environment by undergoing flocculation with their roots and adding nutrients when they die & decay

120
Q

How do pioneer plants stabilise sand dunes
shade

A
  • Creeping plants, with leaf cover, help the sand/mud retain moisture,
  • by providing shade, which reduces evaporation,
  • so the land can retain more moisture
  • which allows for more species to colonise
121
Q

What pioneer species can be found in sand dunes

A

psammophytes & halophytes

122
Q

Describe the process of plant succession

A
  • Embryo dunes are the first to develop, as sand collects in shelter of rocks/wood
  • As embryo dunes develop, they grow into bigger fore-dunes - which are initially yellow in colour,
  • but darken to grey as decaying plants add humus
  • Depressions between dunes can develop into dune slacks
123
Q

What is a dune slack

A

damper areas where the water table is closer to, or at the surface

124
Q

What is the climatic community

A

The final community will be adjusted to the climatic conditions of the area

125
Q

In a sand dune, as the environment changes overtime, different species will colonise it until it becomes_______

A

stable

126
Q

Pioneer plants add to the nutrients & organic matter in the sand, which eventually forms a …..

A

foreshore

127
Q

In a yellow dune________________ can colonise

A

marram grass

128
Q

How can marram grass stabilise sand dunes

A
  • The halophyte has roots that grow up to 3m deep,
  • which helps stabilise the sand,
  • moreover, their stems allows for sediment accumulation,
  • increasing the rate of deposition,
  • which helps to build up the sand dune, stabilising the unconsolidated sand prior
129
Q

In a sand dune, overtime, the percentage of sand exposed will…

A
  • reduce as vegetation adds more humus,
  • which creates a self-sustaining cycle,
  • allowing for more flocculation to take place,
  • so more vegetation can grow
130
Q

What vegetation forms in fore dunes

A

sea rocket & couch grass

131
Q

What vegetation forms in grey dunes

A

low shrubs (brambles)

132
Q

What vegetation forms in dune slacks

A

aquatic plants

133
Q

Name 2 examples of sand dunes in the UK

A

Winterton dunes in Eastern England
Studland on the south coast

134
Q

As the sand dune develops, the ph of the soil ________and the soil nutrients & vegetation coverage ________

A

decreases
increases