Rouges and Rouging Flashcards
Any red colorant to be applied to the warm color areas of the face and hands.
Rogue
Reds used for the lips only because they are usually unsatisfactory for the other warm color areas of the face and hands.
Lip Rouge
- Replace blood color
- Increase the red in the complexion coloring for florid or ruddy complexion.
- Intensify the red in the complexion coloring to compensate for warm color illumination or the color of the casket interior and clothing.
- Reinstate warm color areas.
- Correctively shape the cheeks and lips
Reasons for Applying Rogue
- Colors- A wide variety
- Types- Many
Availability of Rouges
Each type of rouge can be classified as a:
- Liquid
- Cream
- Powder
- Aerosol
Classification of Rouges
Only a few mortuary types available.
- Transparent
- Opaque
Liquid Rouges
- Colors- few
- Types:
- Transparent paints
- Spray rouges
Transparent Liquid Rouges
A masking type of mortuary rouge with an evaporating vehicle.
Opaque Liquid Rouge
Greater number of types and colors
- Paste rouges (mortuary, ornamental, theartical)
- Soft cream rouges (mortuary, ornamental, theatrical)
Cream Rouges
An opaque cosmetic in a jar.
Mortuary Paste Rogue
A semi-opaque cream cosmetic in 2 textures (firm and soft).
Ornamental Paste Rogue
A firm semi-opaque cosmetic called “moist rogue.”
Theatrical Paste Rogue
Appears very dense but can be applied as a transparent film.
Mortuary Cream Rogue
Is vivid in color and is packaged in a small plastic jar or compact.
Ornamental Cream Rogue
Is vivid in color and is warmed and applied by hand.
Theatrical Cream Rogue
Composed mainly of a clay or some similar inert solid.
- Dry (cake)
- Fluff
- Cake Foundation
Powder Rouges
A compressed powder cosmetic packaged in a small, flat, round container with a rouge-puff for application.
Dry (Cake) Rouge
Use a soft brush
For a controlled application of a dry (cake) rouge.
Tap the brush against your hand.
To determine the quantity to be applied (dry rouge)
Apply the rouge with your finger or brush while the cosmetic is still moist.
Fusing the dry rogue into an applied complexion cosmetic.
This is one in which the vehicle has evaporated.
- Use a damp sponge
Application of a dry rogue on a dry cosmetic
Compressed ornamental powder cosmetic.
- Commonly known as a “Blusher”
- Similar to dry (cake) rouge but is softer and less vivid.
- Packaged in a small container with a soft round brush.
Fluff Rouge
The time to apply a fluff rouge.
After Powder
- Source- Theatrical
- Color- vivid reds
Cake Foundation
Applied only on the lips.
- Liquid or cream
Lip Rouge
- Lip tints
- Lip Rouges
Types of Mortuary Liquid Lip Rouges
Clear solutions in bottles with an evaporating vehicle; come in sets.
Lip Tints
Transparent lip-colorants that appear cloudy in the bottle; come in sets.
Lip Rouges
Semi-opaque lip colorant packaged in a plastic tube and applied with a brush.
Ornamental Liquid Lip Rouge (Lip-Liner)
- Lipstick
- Lip jelly
Types of Cream Lip Rouge
- Difficult to apply on cold tissues
- For easier application- warm and mix with a solvent.
Lipstick
Is must softer than lipstick.
Lip Jelly
The color of rouge or lip rouge should identifiy with the complexion color and not the color of the hair and clothing.
The Choice of Red
Ornamental rouge for medium (average) Caucasian women.
Pure Red
Ornamental rouge for fair Causasian women
Less Vivid Red
Rouge for dark Caucasian women
Dark Red (Brown Added)
- Light and medium complexion: Pure red
- Dark complexion- Pure red on the lips only
Rouge for African American Women
Rouge for Asian women
Pure red on the lips only
A combination of a complexion compound and the basic pigment (pure) red.
Complexion Red
Employed for natural, non-ornamental makeup.
Use of Complexion Red
Over a three-day viewing period the complexion tends to appear grayed.
- Treatment- Red pigment applied to the face will offset this “ashen” appearance.
Dark African-Americal Complexion
Those areas of the skin surface which during life are naturally reddened.
- These areas are not highlights as the coloring is not a lighter complexion coloring.
Warm Areas of the Face and Hands
- Lips
- Ears
- Nose
- Cheeks
- Chin
- Forhead (Males)
Note: The ears and nose are interchangable
Natural Sequence (most to least)
- Lips
- Cheeks
- Ears
- Chin
- Nose
Ornamental Sequence (Most to least)
- Ears
- Chin
- Nose
- Hands
Areas of Similar Treatment for all Subjects
All parts except the tragus are tinged in red.
Ears
Tint the prominence.
Chin
Lower parts are tinted.
Nose
Apply red to the knuckles, nails, and cuticles.
Hands
- Foreheads of males
- Nostrils
- Capillary flush of the cheeks
Areas of Special Rouge Treatments
Between the upper and lower eminences.
Forehead of Males
Inside that is delicately chiseled and sensitive in appearance.
Nostrils
Used on someone who had a great number of superficial capillaries.
Capillary Flush of the Cheeks
- 3/4 of the population do not show redness in the cheeks.
- To restore the “picture of health” it has become traditional to add a tinge of redness to the cheeks.
- Study people with natural redness in the cheeks- so you are better able to simulate it.
Rouging of the Cheeks for Natural Appearance
Flood the entire area with pink.
Infant
Upper part of the font plane.
Child
Triangular space, slightly lateral to that of a child.
Adolescent
Upper part of the cheekbone, where it recedes inward toward the lower eyelid.
Young Adult
Narrow band running frmo the wing of the nose to the lobe of the ear.
Middle-Age Adult
Drops to the lower part of the cheek, occupying the triangular space above the jawline.
Aged Adult
The main goal is the stimulation of the classic oval head shape.
Rouging the cheeks for ornamental effect
The most vivid of all warm color areas.
- Are comprised of a combination of the four basic pigments with the red predominating.
- Lack a distinct marginal color.
Lips (Mucous Membranes)
Done when replacing the color to the lips.
Balance the Lips
- Warm a cream rouge on the palm of the hand and apply using a flat lip brush.
- Maintain a flat chisel edge on the brush.
- Applying cream rouge to the lips.
- Lining and filling
- Vertical
- Horizontal
Techniques of Rouging the Lips
Parallel paint the lip-lines beyond the natural limits.
Thickening
Normally the lips disappear from sight before reaching the ends of the line of closure; they can be made wider by extending the color to the extreme ends.
Widening
