Cosmetic Orientation Flashcards
The study of the materials and techniques of applying colorant to stimulate the natural appearance of the deceased for viewing in the funeral setting.
Mortuary Cosmetology
- Replaces lost coloring
- Compensate for the absorptic effect of funeral illumination
- Present a well groomed appearance
- Create a memory picture and ease the families grief.
- Accent or de-emphasize
- Harmonize complexion coloring with the clothing and casket interior.
- Conceal discolorations
- Match the wax with the color of the complexion
Purpose of Postmortem Cosmetology
The achievement of a natural non-cosmetic effect, stimulating the appearance of color coming from within the skin.
Goal of Postmortem Cosmetology
By artificial Means
Goal is Achieved
- Study people we see each day.
- Identify the differences of:
- Complexions
- Highlight and Shadow Areas
- Warm color areas
To Learn What is Natural
Applies to the cosmetic embellishment of women who wore cosmetics.
Ornamental Cosmetology
The medium itself, commercially prepared for female make up.
Ornamental Cosmetic
The technique of cosmetic application dealing with the:
- Manner of treatment of the lips, cheeks, and eyes.
- Process of creating illusory alterations
Ornamental Makeup
- Internal
- External
Coloring Methods
Achieved by arterial injections of a staining dye with the embalming chemical.
Internal Coloring
- Red (more common)
- Brown
Colors Used- Internal Coloring
Spotting (blotching) of the color caused by imprefect circulation and diffusion.
Possible Problem- Internal Color
Achieved by surface application of the cosmetic, by means of:
- Hand
- Brush
- Sponge
- Pad
- Spray
External Coloring
- Liquid cosmetics
- Cream Cosmetics
- Powder cosmetics
- Aerosol cosmetics
Types of External Coloring Media
Those which flow and are not solid.
Liquid Cosmetics
Those which are semi-solid
Cream Cosmetics
Those which are solid and composed of extremely fine particles which may be loose or compressed.
Powder Cosmetics
The kind which are sprayed.
Aerosol Cosmetics
- Are quickly applied
- Will not come off when touched
- Dry to the touch, so no powder is needed
- Will not matte on light facial hair
- Easily removed from hair, eyebrows and eyelashes.
Advantages of Transparent Liquid Cosmetics
- May dehydrate the tissues
- Limited color range
- May collect in wells
- Not compatible with wax
Disadvantages of some Transparent Liquid Cosmetics (Alcohol Based)
- Prevent dehydration
- Versatility of color
- Blend well together
- Easy to correct faults of color
- Work well with wax
Advantages of semi-opaque cream cosmetics with an oil (or grease)
- Longer to apply
- Must be warmed before application
- May over apply
- Powder cakes
- Hair must be removed from face
- Must be dried
- Soils the clothing
- Comes off with touching.
Disadvantage of Semi-Solid Cream Cosmetics with an oil (or grease)
- Clear in container
- Skin is visible
- No covering ability
Transparent
- Cloudy appearance in container
- skin is visible
- no covering ability
Translucent
- Dense in container
- some visibility of skin
- some covering ability
Semi-opaque
- Dense in container
- no visibility of skin
- has covering ability
Opaque
The determinative pigment of all races.
- Color range- brown to black-brown
- Location- in the epidermis and the hair
Melanin
The yellow pigment of the skin.
- A varient- corresponding to provitamin A
Carotene
Blood in the veins and arteries which affect skin color by its presence in the capillaries.
Hemoglobin and Oxyhemoglobin
The cosmetic pigments which simulate skin pigments and are used mainly to alter applied coloring.
- White
- Yellow
- Red
- Brown
Basic Pigments
Is used to lighten (raise the value) of the applied complexion value.
White
Creates the sallow component of the skin.
Yellow
Reproduces the warm-color areas (rouging).
Red
Supplies the dark tones of the skin.
Brown
Combinations of 2 or more of the basic pigments.
Compounds
- Caucasion and light African American- 90-95%
- Dark African American- 33-50%
- Black-Brown- A mere suggestion
Amount of White in a Mixture
- Unitary
- Coordinating
Two types of Complexion Compounds
A combination of all 4 of the basic pigments.
Unitary
Where two compounds (a tint and a tone) are needed to supply the correct ratio of all four of the basic pigments.
- By altering the proportions of each, all unitary colors can be made.
Coordinating
- Pre-warm the cosmetic in your palm.
- Avoid contamination- Use a spatula to transfer cosmetics.
- Discard left over cosmetic
- Clean brushes between cases
Softening Cream Cosmetics Before Application
- Blend- On the face of the deceased
- Pre-mix- On your palm (gloved) when matching is necessary
Localities for Blending and Pre-mixing Cosmetics
Transparent and semi-opaque cream cosmetics are often over applied.
- Blot with a cleaning tissue
- If the vehicle has dried- Make a second application of the cosmetic and blot immediately.
Reduction of excessive cosmetic to maintain transparency.
This will absorb the excess, reducing the cosmetic to a transparent quality.
Blot with a Cleaning Tissue
- Supplies a base for cream cosmetics having an oil or grease vehicle
- Warm cream on your palm, then blend with your fingers avoiding the hair.
- Wipe excess cream off so only a film of oil remains.
General Use- Massage Cream
- Most cosmetics can be removed by massage cream.
- Exception- volatile paint
Cosmetic Removal
Use a mortuary dry cleaner for hair.
Solvent removal of traces of massage cream
- When using oil or grease type cosmetics that have to be pre-warmed (on the palm of your hand).
- Where hair or wax is to applied (wax will not adhere).
- When applying liquid cosmetics (required dry surface).
- When opaque cosmetics are to be used (reduces the covering power).
When Not to Use Massage Cream
- Cleaning
- Creaming
- Blackheads
- Color rinse for the cranial hair
- Shaving
- Trim Facial Hair
- Trim sideburns and temples
- Trim a mustache
- Hand treatments
Preliminary Grooming
- Clean, bathe and disinfect the deceased
- Shampoo Hair
Cleaning
- Face and hands
- Done prior to embalming
Creaming
- Small- anytime
- Large- after embalming- May cause leakage if done before.
Blackheads
Usually applied before embalming.
Color rinse for the hair
- Common problem- razor burns
- Safety razor- with the growth
- Electric razor- Against the growth
Shaving
- Ears and Nose
- Females- upper lip and chin (depends on the family)
Trim Facial Hair
- Nails Scrubbed
- Stains Removed- Nicotine (lemon juice or 5% bleach).
Hand Treatments
- The complexion in coloring
- Alteration of the complexion coloring
- Corrective shaping
- Reinstatement of the warm color areas
- Powdering
General Procedure for cosmetic application on the normal case
- Cheeks
- Glabella
- Chin
Put the mass of the cosmetics on:
____ cosmetic out.
Spread
- The cream is thinned out
- The hairline is lighter than the rest of the face.
Start at the forehead and work toward the hairline
- Lips
- Cheeks
- Chin
- Base of the nose
- Ears
- Frontal eminences (males only)
Fill in the Warm areas
Will exhibit a slight sheen.
Natural Skin Appearance
Will create a dulled (matte) finish.
Powder, as a finishing step of makeup
- Typical- or an ornamental makeup
- Unnatural- On persons who did not use cosmetics.
A matte Finish is Considered:
Gently touch a damn tissue against the powdered make up, hair spray or emollient spray.
- Removes and excess powder
- A slight sheen now appears
To erase a matte finish
Powder should be removed from tiny ________.
Character Lines
- Corners of the mouth
- Inner corners of the eye
- Nasal sulcus beside the wing of the nose
Removal of superfluous powder- Special Care should be given to:
- Powder Brush
- Texturizing or stipple brush
Brush used- Removal of superfluous powder
- Eyebrows, eyelashes may be brushed with brown or black cosmetics for better contrast
- Cosmetic application on facial and cranial hair may be used on extensive restorations when solvent use may result in damage.
Treatment of Hair with Cosmetics
- Funeral home procedures differ
- Ideally- the deceased should be dressed and casketed and placed in the viewing environment before applying cosmetics.
- casket lining and pillow should be covered
- the deceased clothing:
- protect the collar and cuffs by using a towel.
- Place a towel beneath the hands
Dressing, Casketing and Cosmetizing
- Powder and cosmetics which have contaminated the hair may be removed by using:
- a small cotton swab
- a small stiff brush
- an eyebrow brush
- This removal may be accomplished two ways:
- dry removal
- Solvent removal
Final Grooming of the Cranial and Facial Hair
Simply wipe the areas to be cleaned.
Dry Removal
Use a mortuary dry cleaning chemical, being careful not to drip it on the cosmetized face.
Solvent Removal