Lesson 6 - Exfoliation (pg 173) Flashcards
What is exfoliation of the skin?
The term exfoliation refers to the peeling or sloughing of the horny layer of the skin. Use caution when exfoliating the skin. It is important to note that the aestheticians domain is the superficial epidermidis, not treatments that involve the live layers of the skin below the epidermidis.
What are the benefits of exfoliation?
- Skin texture is smoother and softer
- Follicle openings are cleaner
- Deep pore cleansing extraction are easier
- The cell turnover rate is increased bringing new cells to the surface more rapidly
- ability to retain moisture and lipids is improved
- Product penetration has improved and delivery of ingredients into the epidermidis is more effective
- Blood flow in circulation are stimulated
- Make up application a smoother and more even
Which skin conditions or skin types is exfoliation especially beneficial for?
- Oily, clogged skin with blackheads, whiteheads, and minor acne breakouts, keeps follicles clean
- Dry, dehydrated skin with cell buildup, flaking, and a tight dry surface
- dull, lifeless looking skin [this skin condition actually has a tremendous buildup of dead cells that produces a slight gray colour on the surface]
What are the two types of exfoliation?
Chemical and mechanical
Describe mechanical exfoliants
-Exfoliants that require a rubbing action
- A method of physically rubbing dead cells off the skin; examples of mechanical peeling include granular scrubs, or treatments that use a brushing machine
- The movement of the brushes are scrubs remove cells from the surface of the corneum
- Granular scrubs are usually used after cleansing from one to 2 times per week and I rinsed with water
- Frequency of use depends on the skin condition
Describe chemical exfoliation and or exfoliants
- Dead cells and the intercellular matrix, or glue that holds them together [desmosomes] are dissolved by chemical agents such as AHA’s
- alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acids are probably the most effective tools for treating photo ageing skin
- AHAS and BHAS are naturally occurring mild acids and used as chemical exfoliants. Glycollic [sugarcane], lactic [milk ferment], Malic [apples], citric and tartaric [grapes] are AHA’s
- Glycollic acid has the smallest molecular structure and therefore has the ability to penetrate the deepest of all AHAS. For this reason it is considered the most active and highly effective to exfoliate, brighten and smooth the skins texture. Products with high concentration of glycollic acid should be used with caution, especially on very thin and sensitive skin
- Salicylic acid [metabolite of aspirin] is a type of BHA’s. Which is the least strong chemical of the two. Citric acid was originally cited as a BHA that is now considered to be a mild AHA.
- salicylic acid is oil soluble so it can get down into the pores to cut through the oil that’s clogging them. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties so it’s perfect for treating oily and problematic skin.
- these exfoliants work by loosening the bond between cells in the epidermis. They can also help lighten pigmented areas, soften rough skin, and heal areas that are prone to breakouts.
Describe enzyme peels
- Unlike AHA’s, enzymes digest only the dead cells on the surface [for example papaya]. Superficial enzyme peel is mild. AHA’s are much stronger than enzymes.
- Enzyme peels involve use of caratolastic enzymes, which help speed up the breakdown of keratin, the protein in a skin. One enzyme used often is propane, which is derived from papaya. Another frequently used enzyme bromelain, which is extracted from pineapple and pumpkin.
- There are two types of enzyme treatments: masks and gommage
- Gommage Is the second type of enzyme peel also known as rolled off mask. This treatment is usually a combination of an enzyme and a mechanical exfoliation.
Sun protection is necessary after exfoliating treatments, especially those done with chemical exfoliants.
What is the main purpose of the rotary brush?
- to lightly exfoliate the skin, and assist in the cleaning process.
- brushes stimulate the skin and help soften excess oil, dirt and cell build up.
- do not brush on acne or inflamed skin.
What is often considered to be the most important machine used in esthestics by estheticians?
Steamer
Why should the steamer not be used too often on one client?
It should not be used frequently on couperose or inflamed skin as it can dilate the capillaries and follicles causing more redness and irritation
When is the steam vaporizer used?
- introduced in first facial
- steam is used after exfoliation and before extractions
What is the purpose of the steamer?
- soften dead skin cells
- Softens comedones
- Beneficial for sinuses and congestion
- Increase circulation and metabolism
- Relaxes the client/reduces anxiety
- ozone feature will disinfect and oxygenate the skin while sedating the sebaceous glands
Which skin types are the ozone feature for?
Ozone is only for oily and acne skin type and conditions. This is because it disinfects, oxygenates, and sedates the sebaceous glands.
How many oxygen atoms does ozone consist of? When is it created?
Ordinary oxygen in the atmosphere consists of two oxygen atoms. Ozone consists of three oxygen atoms.
oZone is what is created after a lightning storm and has a distinct smell
What are the benefits and downsides to ozone?
- Ozone has antiseptic qualities
- Ozone molecules have the ability to kill bacteria and other microorganisms
- With that being said ozone also is a strong oxidizer that creates free radicals
Describe the protocol of using the steamer
- Always heat up the steamer at the start of your treatment/or when you are on your skin analysis step in class
- Never direct the spout at the face until there is an even flow of steam
- Always use distilled water and never overfill
- Never touch the glass jar on the steamer when it’s hot
- Always steam from above the head and not from below the chin
- Keep the steam approximately 15 to 18 inches off the face
- If too close steam can cause overheating of the skin and further irritation or burning
- Do not leave your client during the steaming
- Clean the steamer regularly to avoid mineral buildup [think of how you clean your kettle at home – can be done with vinegar once in a while]
- do not let the water level run low in the steamer as that may break the glass
Describe the proper protocol for cleaning the steamer
- Steamers must be clean thoroughly once a month with distilled water and vinegar
- Place to capfuls of vinegar in the steamer and the rest filled with distilled water until the water reaches the designated red line
- Let it steam for at least 20 minutes
- Turn off and let the vinegar rest in the unit for 15 more minutes until it’s cooled
- After it cools, drain the steamer jar completely and then refill with water
- again let the steamer run for 10 minutes or until the vinegar odour is gone
Describe the proper protocol for starting the steamer
- Always fill the steamer with distilled water only. Water must reach the designated redline indicated on the beaker to allow the water to boil. Turn power switch on
- Preheat the steamer before you need it. Turn it on while performing skin analysis. Wait for it to start steaming and then turn on the oh zone if needed
- Check to make sure that the steamer is not too close to the client and that it is also steaming the face evenly
- always steam from the forehead down never from the chin up. Cover sensitive areas with gauze
- if the steamer shut itself off and you can no longer get it to work check the reset button beneath the machine
- turn the steamer off immediately after use
At what point do you turn on the ozone feature of the steamer?
When there is a constant flow of steam already coming out of the steamer
How long should you be using the steamer treatment for each skin type?
Normal and sensitive – five minutes at medium distance
* Cover sensitive areas with gauze

Dry skin – eight minutes at close distance
Oily skin – 10 minutes at far distance
Combination - eight minutes at medium distance to far distance

List the contraindications for steaming
- Asthma
- Extremely vascular complexion
- Acne rosacea
- sunburn
- uncontrolled blood pressure
- most people having a facial expect to have steam used on them, regardless of their skin type or condition. For more sensitive skin you steam for a minimum amount of time.
When are extractions performed?
Extractions are performed immediately after the steam, while the skin is still warm.
Extractions can also be performed after photo-evervecent treatment while the skin is relaxed and pores are opened.
What are the purpose of extractions?
Proper extraction procedures are necessary to safely extract oil and debris from the follicles
Describe the preparation’s for extraction
- Proper washing of the hands
- Cleanse the skin
- Exfoliate the skin
- Prepare the skin using steam or photo-effervescent
- Now the skin is prepared for extractions
- Wear gloves and tissue around index fingers
- wrap them around forefingers ensuring the nails are covered as well [please note, a spa therapist must never have long or painted nails]