design for manufacture, maintenance, repair and disposal- 1.11

Question 1

Efficiency in manufacture is incredibly important, what are the different stages of manufacture and what are the effects of these?

Answer 1

1. producing raw materials to make yarns and fabrics
2. cutting and sewing the product
3. packaging and delivery to the retailer (manufacture of garments usually happens off-shore in countries in the continent of Asia and are transported to countries such as England)

these three processes use a variety of raw materials, chemicals, water and energy, all of which have an effect financially, and on the environment as well.

Question 2

How can designers ensure efficiency?

Answer 2

using careful planning- including the use of computerised systems which can help ensure that manufacture is efficient in terms of time and the use of energy

Question 3

which types of fibres need more processing- natural or synthetic fibres?

Answer 3

Natural fibres such as Cotton, wool and linen need a lot more processing than synthetic fibres. They need to be cleaned, sorted, carded, and dyeing using chemicals to be white and ready for use, whereas synthetic fibres are naturally white and clean because they are manufactured using the melt spinning process

Question 4

how could you say both natural and synthetic fibres use a lot of energy in their processing?

Answer 4

Converting the fibres- both natural and synthetic into yarns requires energy to work the machines

Question 5

How is dyeing the fibres harmful to the environment?

Answer 5

Traditional dyeing methods use up large quantities of water and produce toxic waste, which must be treated before disposal to ensure that it does not pollute water systems or land. Synthetic fibres can have colour put into the spinning solution when they are processed, meaning the fabric will not have to be dyed when the fibres are processed. on the other hand, there have been some developments in the growing of already-coloured cotton fibres.

Question 6

what are the benefits of special finishes?

Answer 6

Special finishes can be added to a product to make them for functional, for example crease and shrink resistance or moth proofing wool fabrics. Although these are an additional process which can use harmful chemicals, it means that the product may last longer and require less maintenance

Question 7

how does the type of fabric selected affect the amount of waste produced?

Answer 7

The type of fabric and how it is cut will affect the waste produced. For example, a garment cut on the bias of the fabric to increase elastometric properties will require far more fabric that one cut on the straight grain, and a lot of fabric will be wasted. Another example is fabrics with one way patterns- pattern pieces will have to be cut out ensuring that the pattern direction is the same on each piece and some garments need to have the pattern align across the pattern pieces.

Question 8

How does the use of CAM (computer aided manufacture) improve efficiency and waste?

Answer 8

Computer automated machinery used in the manufacture of a garment means that the products are made with a lot more accuracy, reducing waste as products are made correctly without human error. Less waste is also generated through accurate pattern cutting and using computers to generate a nap layout to find the most efficient places to place pattern pieces to reduce fabric waste

Question 9

having traditional packaging such as cardboard boxes etc is costly, can add bulk weight during the transportation of the goods and is overall very wasteful. What is the alternative to this?

Answer 9

You could use a modern transport system where garments are stored on hangers in warehouses and transported on moveable rails which reduces the need for individual packaging and means that energy does not need to go into ironing the garment before it is displayed on the shop floor

Question 10

fabrics intended for products that will be subject to regular and prolonged use may benefit from what?

Answer 10

an applied fabric finish to keep them in good condition for longer, meaning a new product will not have to be purchased to replace it. For example, stain repellent finishes can be applied to children’s schoolwear or crease resistant finishes to workwear garments. These finishes may reduce the need for repeated cleaning and ironing, reducing the amount of detergent and energy used in their upkeep.

Question 11

what does the cleaning of textile products require?

Answer 11

the use of water, detergents, cleaning fluids and energy to power washing and drying machines.

Question 12

what are laundry detergents made from?

Answer 12

Chemicals such as phosphorus

Question 13

how is phosphorus harmful to the environment?

Answer 13

can cause eutrophication in the lakes and rivers where they end up as sewage waste

Question 14

fabrics that are washed and ironed at lower temperature can save what?

Answer 14

electricity

Question 15

most textile materials can be recycled, however what is the exception?

Answer 15

mixed fibres such as cotton and polyester can be problimatic because it is difficult to separate them out for reuse

Question 16

some dyes and finishing chemicals break down in landfill sites and give off what?

Answer 16

poisonous chemicals, which can seep out into nearby waterways

Question 17

what are the 6 R’s of sustainability?

Answer 17

1. Reduce
2. Reuse
3. Recycle
4. Repair
5. Rethink
6. Refuse

Question 18

what does ‘Reduce’ mean?

Answer 18

for consumers, reducing can mean reducing their overall consumption and how many products they buy and discard of, but for designs and manufactures reduce can mean reducing the impact that the product has on the environment (For example reducing decorative effects such as trims which may not be essential. Simplifying the design can also contribute to the savings of energy and materials

Question 19

what does ‘recycle’ mean?

Answer 19

A consumer can recycle their clothing by donating them to charity shops, passing on clothing to others or using the products for another purpose- for example old garments can be turned into wiping cloths used for cleaning.

Recycling of non-textile materials such as plastic can also be used to create new fabrics. For example, recycled plastic bottles can be used to make fabrics such as patagonia fleece

Question 20

what does ‘reuse’ mean?

Answer 20

Using the product or parts/components of the product to make something else. Retailers such as Marks and Spencer actively encourage consumers to return their unwanted clothing so that the fabrics can be used and repurposed into another garment

Question 21

what does ‘rethink’ mean?

Answer 21

Rethink mostly applies to designers- designers will rethink the design and see if it could be made more sustainable. For example, using fewer materials and using fabrics made from more sustainable fibres such as new generation lyocell fibres. A designer can also consider where the product will be manufactured and where components will be purchased- if they are sourced more locally this reduces the environmental impact of transportation

Question 22

what does ‘repair’ mean?

Answer 22

A product can be repaired rather than discarded of- some components are easy to be replaced and can be done at home. for example replacing a button or sewing a small hole. Many manufacturers provide a replacement button and some give extra trims such as beads and a short length of matching thread

Question 23

what does ‘Refuse’ mean?

Answer 23

as consumers, it is easy to be lured into purchasing an item from marketing ploys or current fashion trends. However, consumers have to refuse purchasing new items if they do not need them. Consumers also can refuse to buy a product if it is made from synthetic materials or if the company is renowned for unfairly treating their workers or having an immense environmental impact without much care

Question 24

why is maintenance and care labelling so important?

Answer 24

Looking after textile products correctly helps to prolong their life and reduces the amount of waste sent to landfill. Caring for products by looking at the care label is one way to look after them.

Question 25

what do care labels feature?

Answer 25

they feature a recognisable set of symbols to tell the consumer the best way to wash, dry and iron the product, as well as any other relevant information for the care of the product.

Question 26

what company are the care label symbols owned by?

Answer 26

A company called GINETEX, and the company is a registered trade mark

Question 27

chlorine bleach can do what?

Answer 27

Remove colour from fabrics and can weaken and yellow others

Question 28

why can chlorine remove colour from some fabrics?

Answer 28

Fluorescent whitening agents are commonly used to white all fibre types during fabric manufacture, especially where a white fabric is required. These are colourless dyes that cause the fabric to reflect ultraviolet light, making it appear whiter and brighter. These fluorescent dyes can be broken down by bleaches commonly used in home laundering

Question 29

Why do natural fibres not shrink if they are dry cleaned?

Answer 29

Because dry cleaning uses solvents instead of water to dissolve soiling and stains. Because water is not used, cellulostic fibres do not swell so they therefore do not shrink. The lack of heat and moisture in dry cleaning also means that wool and other delicate fibres are not damaged by the process

Question 30

what do care labels recommend the washing temperature is for fabrics containing thermoplastic fibres?

Answer 30

fabrics containing thermoplastic fibres should not be washed any higher than 40 degrees. if the wash temperature is any higher, there is a risk that the fabric may be heat set into unwanted creases that will be difficult to remove. This is also the reason why these types of fabrics are not ironed with a hot iron or put in a tumble dryer on full heat.

Question 31

some detergents contain enzymes which can cause what?

Answer 31

Some detergents contain enzymes which can cause bright colours to fade and can damage protein fibres such as wool