coats

Question 1

how do waves form

Answer 1

by winds blowing over the sea. friction with the surface of the water causes ripples that develop into waves. tsunamis form when earthquakes or volcanic eruptions shake the sea bed.

the distance that wave-generating winds blow across the water is called the fetch

Question 2

what happens when waves reach the coast

Answer 2

in the open sea, there is little horizontal movement of water
circular orbit in open water
friction with seabed distorts circular motion
increasing elliptical orbit as water becomes shallower, and waves move forward.
the wave breaks and collapses onto the beach.
water returns as backwash
water rushes up beach as wash

Question 3

define and describe constructive waves

Answer 3

formed by storms often hundreds of kilometers away. common in summer

low waves with wave crest far apart. gently sloping wavefronts. breaking wave push large amounts of sand and pebbles up the beach

Question 4

define and describe destructive waves

Answer 4

formed by local storms close to the coast. common in winter
waves close together. waves become high with a steep wavefront. breaking waves plunging down onto the beach with little forward swash
wrong backwash erodes sand and pebbles and can destroy the beach

Question 5

Erosion

Answer 5

The breakdown and transport of rocks

Question 6

Attrition

Answer 6

Rocks that bash together to become smooth/smaller

Question 7

Solution

Answer 7

A chemical reaction that dissolves rocks

Question 8

Abrasion

Answer 8

Rocks hurled at the base of a cliff to break pieces apart

Question 9

Hydraulic Action

Answer 9

Water enters cracks in the cliff, the air compresses, causing the crack to expand.

Question 10

Types of Erosion

Answer 10

Attrition

abrasion

Hydraulic Action

Solution

Question 11

Types of Transportation

Answer 11

Solution

suspension

traction

saltation

Question 12

transportation

Answer 12

A natural process by which eroded material is carried/transported.

Question 13

Solution

Answer 13

Minerals dissolve in water and are carried along.

Question 14

Suspension

Answer 14

Sediment is carried along in the flow of the water.

Question 15

Saltation

Answer 15

Pebbles that bounce along the sea/river bed

Question 16

Traction

Answer 16

Boulders that roll along a river/sea bed by the force of the flowing water

Question 17

Mass Movement

Answer 17

A large movement of soil and rock debris that moves down slopes in response to the pull of gravity in a vertical direction

Question 18

Mass Movement steps

Answer 18

1 Rain saturates the permeable rock above the impermeable rock making it heavy.

2 Waves or a river will erode the base of the slope making it unstable.

3 Eventually, the weight of the permeable rock above the impermeable rock weakens and collapses.

4 The debris at the base of the cliff is then removed and transported by waves or a river.

Question 19

What is Deposition?

Answer 19

When the sea or river loses energy, it drops the sand, rock particles, and pebbles it has been carrying. This is called deposition.

Deposition happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash and is associated with constructive waves.

Question 20

Types of Weathering

Answer 20

Carbonation

mechanical

Question 21

Carbonation

Answer 21

The weathering of rocks by chemicals is called chemical weathering. Rainwater is naturally slightly acidic because carbon dioxide from the air dissolves in it. Minerals in rocks may react with the rainwater, causing the rock to be weathered

Question 22

Mechanical

Answer 22

Mechanical weathering is caused by physical changes such as changes in temperature, freezing and thawing.

Water gets into cracks in rocks, freezes when the temperature drops below 0’c, prising the rock apart. When the water melts, a larger crack develops. Over time this causes rocks to break apart.

Question 23

Formation of Coastal Spits -Deposition

Answer 23

1) Swash moves up the beach at the angle of the prevailing wind.
2) Backwash moves down the beach at 90° to the coastline, due to gravity.
3) Longshore Drift transports material along the beach.
4) Deposition causes the beach to extend, until reaching a river estuary.
5) Change in prevailing wind direction forms a hook.
6) Sheltered area behind spit encourages deposition, salt marsh forms.

Question 24

Formation of Bays and Headlands

Answer 24

1) Waves attack the coastline.
2) Softer rock is eroded by the sea quicker forming a bay, calm area causes deposition.

3) More resistant rock is left jutting out into the
sea. This is a headland and is now more vulnerable to erosion.

Question 25

Freeze-thaw weathering stage one

Answer 25

Water seeps into cracks and fractures in the rock.

Question 26

Freeze-thaw weathering stage two

Answer 26

When the water freezes, it expands about 9%. This wedges apart from the rock

Question 27

freeze-thaw weathering stage three

Answer 27

With repeated freeze-thaw cycles, the rock breaks off.

Question 28

what does the size of a wave depend on

Answer 28

Fetch How far the wave has travelled
• Strength of the wind.
• How long the wind has been blowing for

Question 29

Formation of Coastal Stack

Answer 29

1) Hydraulic action widens cracks in the cliff face
overtime.

2) Abrasion forms a wave-cut notch between HT and
LT.

3) Further abrasion widens the wave-cut notch from a cave.
4) Caves from both sides of the headland break through to form an arch.

5) Weather above/erosion below –arch collapses
leaving stack.

6) Further weathering and erosion eaves a stump.

Question 30

Describe how a wave-cut platform is formed?

Answer 30

The sea attacks the base of the cliff-forming a wave-cut notch.

The notch increases in size causing the cliff to collapse.

The backwash carries the rubble towards the sea forming a wave-cut platform.

The process repeats and the cliff continues to retreat.