COASTS Flashcards

1
Q

Opportunities for people living on coasts (6)

A
  • It is very accessible. And the coastal harbours are used for ports,
  • Fishing and food, marine life is a lot and people can also make a living from selling it
  • Tourism, a lot of activities for people to do (boating)
  • Agriculture, the soil will be fertile due to the water. (deltas)
  • Ship building
  • Salt marshes
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2
Q

hazards for people living on coasts (3)

A
  • Natural disasters, tsunamis, tornados, hurricanes are more likely to happen near coats which causr the economy and population to decrease
  • Erosion, erosion can lead to the retreating of land, making people move and cities being destroyed and houses to be destroyed.
  • Rising sea temperatures, Rising sea levels mean that the area of land above the sea will be less, people will need to move/evacuate and at one point past towns will be submerged
    For example in australia the ,marine life, sharks
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3
Q

what are mangrove swamps

A

salt-tolerant forests of trees and shrubs that grow in the tidal estuaries and coastal zones of tropical areas

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4
Q

conditions that lead to the formation of mangrove swamps (3)

A
  • low tide currents
  • saline water
  • warm temp (20º)
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5
Q

threats to mangrove swamps (2)

A
  • Many mangroves are being lost/ replaced by shrimp farms and rice paddies
  • Population growth
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6
Q

Why are coral reefs and mangrove swamps co-dependant
(3)

A
  • Mangroves protect coral reefs from sedimentation, as well as keeping the water clear from particles and nutrients ( this maintains the reefs health).
  • Mangroves also provide a spawning nursery for the reefs species that will spend the rest of their lives there, and in return coral reefs provide shelter for the mangroves and their inhabitants
  • The calcium carbonate eroded from the reef provides sediment in which the mangroves grow.
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7
Q

what are corals

A

tiny, marine animals called polyps that form reefs when they live in colonies in their millions.

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8
Q

whats a coral reef

A

an ecosystem made out of corals

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9
Q

why are coral reefs not formed in some areas of the ocean

A
  • Because in some areas there are cold currents and corals need warmer temperatures to form - mostly this
  • Because the sea currents are very strong and the coral reefs are not protected from the power of the water so cannot survive or form in it
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10
Q

fringing reefs

A

grow near the coastline around islands and continents. They are separated from the shore by narrow, shallow lagoons. Fringing reefs are the most common type of reef.

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11
Q

barrier reefs

A

also parallel the coastline but are separated by deeper, wider lagoons. At their shallowest points, they can reach the water’s surface forming a “barrier” to navigation

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12
Q

atolls

A

are rings of coral that create protected lagoons and are usually located in the middle of the sea. Atolls usually form when islands surrounded by fringing reefs sink into the sea or the sea level rises around them.

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13
Q

coral reef benefits to people (3)

A
  • provide food
  • Attract tourists which raises economy
  • Shelter lagoons that are used for ports and boating activities
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14
Q

threats to coral reefs (6)

A
  • Global warming, rising sea temperatures
  • Rivers can be considered a threat to coral reefs because they bring pollutants into the sea
  • Overfishing, not enough fish which mean that the ecosystem isn’t complete
  • Boats and ships breaking reefs because of their movements
  • destructive fishing practices using dynamite or cyanide destroying the reef

-mining coral for building materials

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15
Q

why are rivers considered a threat to coral reefs

A

because they bring pollutants into the sea

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16
Q

what are coastal sand dunes

A

ridges of sand that form on the back of beaches and at spits

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17
Q

conditions needed for sand dunes to form (2)

A
  • Strong prevailing winds
  • Wide expanse of sand
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18
Q

what causes embryo dunes to form

A

needs to be an obstacle blocking or slowing the wind down (like a plant) because of friction to deposit sand. The strong prevailing wind picks up dry sand and when it meets the obstacle it deposits the sand

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19
Q

why do only salt-tolerant plants grow on embryo dunes

A

Salt tolerant species grow on them because they have a high tolerance to hard conditions and act as the object causing the sand to be deposited due to the friction

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20
Q

why do dune ridges form parallel to the shore

A

Volume increase of the embryo dunes affects the wind flow pattern and creates preferential zones of sand erosion and deposition.

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21
Q

what role does marram grass play in the growth of larger yellow dunes

A

very important because it is resistant to the drought conditions that prevail.

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22
Q

is the yellow mobile dune ridge often the lowest or highest

A

highest

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23
Q

how is marram grass uniquely adapted to the conditions found on yellow dunes

A

grows upwards rapidly after being covered in windblown sand. It also has a network of very long roots that help to anchor the sand. The leaves and stems slow down the wind and protect the sand from erosion.

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24
Q

are embryo dunes the youngest or oldest dunes

A

youngest

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25
Q

as you move further away the beach, what happens to the colour of the dunes

A

become less yellow an more grey

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26
Q

why do semi-fied grey dunes decline in height over time

A

because these dunes are starting to build up more humus (the broken-down organic plant matter which is found in soil) from the diverse plant life and bacteria which now lives in these stable dunes. These dunes are also better at holding in water, making them able to support larger shrubs. These are also known as grey dunes and can still have sand blowing through them from blowouts, the semi-fixed dunes or even from the beach on a really windy day!

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27
Q

what are embryo dunes made up of

A

mostly exposed sand,

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28
Q

barrier reefs

A

parallel the coastline but are separated by deeper, wider lagoons. At their shallowest points, they can reach the water’s surface forming a “barrier” to navigation

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29
Q

coral reef benefits to people (3)

A
  • They provide food
  • Attract tourists which raises economy
  • Shelter lagoons that are used for ports and boating activities
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30
Q

CONDITIONS NEEDED FOR SAND DUNES TO FORM

A
  • strong prevailing winds
  • wide expanse of snd
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31
Q

what are the oldest sand dunes

A

fixed sand dunes

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32
Q

What are dune slacks and why would the type of plants found in them differ from those found on the dunes themselves?

A

depressions in the dune system that have formed because of wind erosion down to the water table.
Long, marshy depressions, some with strips of water, lie between the dune ridges. These depressions are known as slacks. They contain water-loving plant species, which differ from slack to slack, because the ones further inland have more sediment deposited in them - leading to drier and less salty conditions for plant growth.

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33
Q

the energy of a wave is determined by

A

its height and length

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34
Q

near the coast, are waves fast or slow

A

slow due to the shallow water

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35
Q

destructive waves

A

operate in storm conditions and are tall

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36
Q

backwash and erosion of destructive waves

A

strong backwash, weak swash and lots of erosion

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37
Q

constructive waves

A

operate in calm weather and are less tall. (less than 1m)

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38
Q

swash of constructive waves and erosion

A

strong swash, weak backwash and erosion is limited

involved with transport and deposition of material creating landforms

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39
Q

5 types of erosion

A

hydraulic action

abrasion

attrition

corrosion

wave pounding

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40
Q

what is hydraulic action

A

lots of sea water crashes against the land and air and watr are trapped in rock cracks. water gets removed and the air expans, causing the cracks tog et bigger and the rock to break

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41
Q

what is abrasion

A

when pebbles grind along a rock platform like cliffs, much like sandpaper

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42
Q

attrition

A

when rocks grind against each other into smoother, smaller pebbles

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43
Q

corrosion

A

chemical action of sea on a rock

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44
Q

wave pounding

A

the weight of the pounding waves onto the rock

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45
Q

what is longshore drift

A

The movement of material, such as sand and stones, along a coastline caused by the movement of waves

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46
Q

when does longshore drift happen

A

when waves break at an oblique angle to the shore which means sediment and material is pushed up along the beach

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47
Q

coastal features of erosion- cliffs retreating

A
  • waves erode rock along the shoreline by hydraulic action, corrosion, abrasion and pounding adn a notch is formed
  • notch develops into a cave
  • the rock above the notch becomes unstable and it collapses
  • the coastline will retreat as this process continues to happen
48
Q

what is a wave cut platform

A

a wide gently-sloping surface found at the foot of a cliff

49
Q

what forms a headland

A

when a cliff is made from both hard and soft rock, and the soft rock becomes eroded

50
Q

what forms between 2 headlands

A

a bay

51
Q

what is a bay

A

land that curves inwards,The area where the soft rock has eroded away, next to the headland

52
Q

waves are faster or slower where there are bays and faster or slower at headlands, why

A

FASTER at bays
SLOWER at headlands due to more friction

53
Q

what is a spit

A

a ridge of sand which extends out from the mainland across a bay)(extension of a beach)

54
Q

what influences the direction of lonshore drift

A

direction of waves

55
Q

how does a spit form

A
  • If the coastline changes direction, deposition begins to occur out into the sea
  • This builds up overtime as the process of longshore drift continues
  • Eventually leading to a formation of sandspit
  • The spit can curve inwardly at the end due to wave refraction
56
Q

why does a salt marsh form on a sand dune

A

The zone behind a spit becomes a sheltered area.A salt marsh then forms because the river deposits its sediment and the velocity behind the spit is much lower and there is much less wind and is protected from the waves
Some spits don’t form into bars because there is less distance to cover, it is shallower, the waves are better.

57
Q

what is a bar

A

Formed when (sand) spits extend across a bay

58
Q

how are bars formed

A

-due to the continued process of longshore drift

  • Sand dunes with marram grass form to give stability to the bar
  • Once closed off, the bay becomes a lagoon
  • Over time a marsh land will form and rivers may enter the lagoon and deposit sediment
59
Q

tombolo is formed when

A

a sand spit connects an island to the mainland

60
Q

how is a tombolo formed

A

due to the continued process of longshore drift
The sand spit extends outwards into the sea and deposition builds up over time
Eventually the sand spit connects the island and mainland
Sand dunes with marram grass form over time giving it stability

61
Q

an arch is formed when

A

the caves are eroded by abrasion and hydraulic action until they completely cut through the headland forming an arch

62
Q

how is a stack formed

A

arch is eroded and the roof becomes too heavy so collapses, leaving a stack

63
Q

how is a stump formed

A

stack is eroded and a wave cut platform is created, the stack then becomes too tall and heavy and collapses leaving the stump.

64
Q

order of formation of crack, cave…)

A

crack
Cave
arch
stack
sTUMP

65
Q

CRACKS ARE FORMED BY WHAT EROSION

A

hydraulic action and abrasion.

66
Q

HOW IS A CAVE FORMED

A

As the waves continue to grind away at the crack, it begins to open up and form a cave

67
Q

management methods

A

hard engineering and soft engineering

68
Q

methods of hard engineering (5)

A
  • sea walls
  • gabions
  • groynes
  • revetments
  • rock armour
69
Q

sea walls do what

A

Large-scale concrete curved walls designed to reflect wave energy

70
Q

advantages of sea walls

A

Easily made; good in areas of high density

71
Q

disadvantages of sea walls

A

Expensive; life span about 30-40 years;
foundation can be undermined

72
Q

what are revetments

A

Porous design to absorb wave energy

73
Q

advantages of revetments

A

Easily made; cheaper than sea walls

74
Q

disadvantages of revetments

A

Life span limited

75
Q

gabions

A

Rocks held in wire cages absorbs wave energy

76
Q

advantages of gabions

A

Cheaper than sea walls and revetments

77
Q

disadvantages of gabions

A

small scale

78
Q

groynes

A

prevent longshore drift

79
Q

advantages of groynes

A

Relatively low cost; easily repaired

80
Q

disadvantages of groynes

A

Cause erosion on downdrift side; interrupt sediment flow

81
Q

rock armour

A

Large rocks at base of cliff to absorb wave energy

82
Q

advantages of rock armour

A

cheap

83
Q

disadvantages of rock armour

A

Unattractive; small-scale; may be removed in heavy storms

84
Q

soft engineering methods of management (3)

A

beach nourishment
offshore reefs
managed retreat

85
Q

beach nourishment

A

Sand pumped from sea bed to replace eroded sand

86
Q

advantages of beach nourishment

A

looks natural

87
Q

disadvantages of beach nourishment

A

expensive and a short term solution

88
Q

managed retreat

A

Coastline allowed to retreat in certain places

89
Q

advantages of managed retreat

A

Cost-effective; maintains a natural coastline

90
Q

disadvantages of managed retreat

A

Unpopular; political implications

91
Q

dune stabilisation

A

sediment is added and erosion is reduced by marram grass planting

92
Q

barrier beaches are found where

A

a spit extends across a shallow bay leaving a lagoon which becomes a marsh

93
Q

spits form where (3)

A
  • across river mouths
  • where the coast suddenly changes direction
  • where tides meet calmer water
94
Q

why do salt marshes form behind spits

A

because waves can’t reach those areas

95
Q

hard engineering is

A

building artificial structures which try to control natural processes.

96
Q

soft engineering

A

here the natural environment is used to help reduce coastal erosion and river flooding.

97
Q

when does coral bleaching happen

A

when delicate corals become stressed due to factors including heat, causing them to lose their brown microbial algae, turning them white

98
Q

types of dunes as you get further from the shore (4)

A
  • embryo dunes
  • fore dunes
  • yellow dunes
  • grey dunes
99
Q

what does marram grass do

A
  • has long tough roots which binds the sand together, allowing the dune to grow high
100
Q

What are coastal sand dunes?

A

Coastal sand dunes are ridges of sand that form on the back of beaches and at spits

101
Q

does marram grass grow quickly

A

yes

102
Q

what are mangrove swamps

A

Mangroves are salt-tolerant forests of trees and shrubs that grow in the tidal estuaries and coastal zones of tropical areas

103
Q

What conditions lead to the formation of mangrove swamps? (3)

A
  • warm temperature (20º)
  • saline water
  • low itde currents
104
Q

Why is conservation of mangrove swamps so important? (4)

A
  • They provide large quantities of food

-Provide large quantities of fuel, building materials and medicine

  • They protect coastlines from the force of storms and hurricanes
  • They act as natural filters, absorbing nutrients from farming and sewage disposal
105
Q

What are the main threats to mangrove swamps?

A
  • Many mangroves are being lost/ replaced by shrimp farms and rice paddies
  • Population growth
106
Q

By what processes does the wind transport sand particles

A

Saltation and suspension

107
Q

why do only salt tolerant species grow on embryo dunes

A

because they have a high tolerance to hard conditions

108
Q

what causes embryo dunes to form

A

For coastal sand dunes to form, there needs to be an obstacle blocking or slowing the wind down (like a plant) because of friction to deposit sand. The strong prevailing wind picks up dry sand and when it meets the obstacle it deposits the sand.

109
Q

why is marram grass so important

A

resistant to the drought conditions that prevail. Marram grass plays a important part in the growth of the dunes, because it grows upwards rapidly after being covered in windblown sand. It also has a network of very long roots that help to anchor the sand. The leaves and stems slow down the wind and protect the sand from erosion.

110
Q

What causes semi-fixed grey dunes to develop

A

In time, dunes become a semi fixed grey dune, because humus from plant decay helps to form a soil and give them a grey colour

111
Q

Why are dune systems vulnerable to damage by people and what can happen as a result?

A

Young dunes are very fragile, because marram grass cannot tolerate trampling.
When the grass dies, the wind easily removes the exposed sand. This leaves a depression or a valley like shape cutting right through the dune, called a blow-out.

112
Q

restoration of dune strategies (3)

A
  • fencing
    -parallel foredunes
  • marram grass
113
Q
A
113
Q

Why do parallel lines of foredunes develop over time?

A

increasing volume of embryo dines affect wind pattern and created preferential zones of sand erosion and deposition

114
Q

what is fencing

A

natural barriers against coastal erosion and flooding. Fences are installed on or around sand dunes to reduce wind speed and trap sand