Coastal Processes

Question 1

Waves are a result of

Answer 1

Friction between the wind and the surface of the sea

Question 2

Swash

Answer 2

Waves that move up the beach

Question 3

Backwash

Answer 3

Waves that move back down the beach

Question 4

Factors that determine wave size

Answer 4

The fetch

Speed and duration of wind

Question 5

What is the fetch

Answer 5

Distance of sea

Question 6

Trough

Answer 6

Lowest part of wave

Question 7

Crest

Answer 7

Highest part of wave

Question 8

Two types of waves

Answer 8

Constructive and destructive

Question 9

Differences between constructive and destructive waves

Answer 9

Destructive are tall where as constructive are small
Destructive have more energy than constructive
Destructive are more frequent per minute than constructive
The backwash in destructive waves is stronger than the swash, making more materials be carried away from the beach
The swash in constructive waves is stronger than the backwash allows more materials being carried onto the beach and less being taken away

Question 10

Types of coastal erosion

Answer 10

Hydraulic action
Compressed air
Abrasion
Attrition

Question 11

When a blowhole collapses what is formed

Answer 11

A geo

Or inlet

Question 12

What is longshore drift

Answer 12

How material is carried across the beach in a zig zag pattern by the waves
Swash carries the material into beach at a diagonal
Backwash brings it back down at a straight angle

Question 13

How are sand dunes stopped from spreading inland

Answer 13

Planting marram grass

Question 14

What’s a storm beach

Answer 14

Pebbles and heavier material carried further down beAch

Question 15

Sand spit

Answer 15

Long ridge of sand connected to the land at one end

Question 16

Sandbar

Answer 16

Sandspit that extends across a bay

Question 17

Lagoon

Answer 17

Salt water lake that has been cut of from the sea by a sandbar

Question 18

Tombolo

Answer 18

Ridge of sand that connnects mainland to an island

Question 19

Tombolo example

Answer 19

Sutton is a tombolo that joins Howth to Dublin

Question 20

4 ways of protecting coast from waves

Answer 20

Sea walls (curved top bounces water back into sea)
Rock armour (large boulders reduce erosion)
Groynes (low walls made of wood that reduce longshore drift)
Gabions (wire cage filled with rock)

Question 21

Name one process of coastal transportation associated with the formation of sand spits, lagoons and tombolos

Answer 21

Longshore drift