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Bio 361- marine science > Coastal Processes > Flashcards

Coastal Processes Flashcards

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Biology 101 flashcards
1
Q

how do waves form?

A

by friction with air
- energy from wind is transferred to waves on the surface

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2
Q

does the water move in waves?

A

no
-> only energy transfers

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3
Q

in what motion do water particles move?

A

circular orbits

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4
Q

does orbit diameter increase or decrease with distance from the bottom?

A

increases

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5
Q

is there energy loss when waves reflect from objects?

A

no
-> energy is only transferred not loss

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6
Q

crest

A

highest point of wave

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7
Q

trough

A

lowest point of the wave surface -> not the point deep in the water column only the SURFACE

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8
Q

wave length

A

from crest to crest

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9
Q

height

A

amplitude
- trough to crest

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10
Q

period

A

t - sec
- time of passage of successive crests

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11
Q

velocity

A

L/t for waves in deep water

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12
Q

depth

A

half of L of a wave
L/2

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13
Q

does the whole water column move horizontally?

A

NO
- circular motion at the top

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14
Q

what happens with D> L/2?

A

water motion is negligible

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15
Q

what happens in deep water with waves?

A

in deep water-> wave action diminishes

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16
Q

what happens to waves in shallow water?

A

wave action does not diminish, wave energy reflects off the bottom
-> waves feel the bottom
-> water depth is less than half the length (D < L/2) - wave becomes elliptical and particles are displaced
-> when water gets too high it breaks

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17
Q

what happens when H to L ratio is greater than 1/7?

A

wave is unstable and collapses (breaks)

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18
Q

is the wave stable or unstable when heigh is 1/7 the length?

A

wave is stable

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19
Q

what does the surface tension of water allow for?

A

energy to be captured

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20
Q

whats the order of waves?

A

ripple then swell then waves

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21
Q

how is the final wave height determined?

A
  • average velocity of wind
  • length of time the wind blows
  • fetch - distance over surface which the wind blows
22
Q

what are the two types of wind waves?

A
  • local seas: short period, irregular -> wind driven
  • swell: long period, reg, independent of local winds -> driven by distant weather conditions
23
Q

what are rogue waves?

A
  • not wind waves
  • usually huge waves without warning
  • wave reinforcement -> 2 waves interacts and wave height is added together
  • interaction of storms with currents
24
Q

whats an example of rogue waves?

A

Draupner Oil Perform

25
Q

what are tsunamis?

A
  • harbor wave
  • not wind waves
  • caused by undersea earthquakes -> tectonic plates that slide past each other and get caught and cause a break
  • long wave lengths - loses very little energy
  • slipping of ocean faults
26
Q

what is an example of a system that measures tsunamis?

A
  • Neptune Canada ->Ocean Networks Canada
  • pressure on sea floor is equivalent to eave height
27
Q

what drives internal waves?

A

density driven
- occurs where low density water lies over higher density water
- propagation of the wave occurs at interface -> wave in-between 2 water bodies
- influenced by tides in shallow water -> estuary where fresher water is coming out and saltier water coming in with tide (wedge)

28
Q

what are internal waves?

A

stratification of the inner water column

29
Q

why is the intermediary water and basin water distinct?

A

the sill keeps the 2 kinds of water separate and creates internal waves

30
Q

whats an example of famous internal waves?

A

Tasman Sea
-> one of the few that has waves that move in one direction making it easier to study

31
Q

tide types?

A

dinural - once a day
semi-diurnal - twice a day
mixed semidiurnal - diff highs and lows during the day

32
Q

what causes tides?

A

gravitational pull of the sun and moon
- pulls the water
- types and number dependent on location

33
Q

why is the gravitational effect of the moon stronger than sun?

A

closer to us
- 6x stronger

34
Q

what does the moon’s rotation around earth give?

A

monthly cycles
- spring and neap

35
Q

what are spring tides?

A

2 of them during new or full moon
- greatest vertical tidal range, highest high or lowest low

36
Q

what are neap tides?

A

2 of them during half moon
- smallest vertical tidal range
- perpendicular to sun so forces do not cooperate

37
Q

what gives daily cycles?

A

earth’s rotation

38
Q

what gives annual cycle?

A

earth’s orbit of sun

39
Q

what are the tide cycles?

A

daily: 12h25min, 24h50min (1 per day)
biweekly: 14 days (27.32 days)
half yearly: 6M ( 1yr)

40
Q

what causes the 12h25min cycle?

A
  • gravitational attraction of moon
  • inertial force of the earth-moon sys
  • motion of moon in same direction as earth’s rotation
41
Q

what causes the 24h50min cycle?

A

gravitational attraction of moon

42
Q

what causes the monthly cycle?

A

combo of earth, moon and sun and their alignments

43
Q

what causes the yearly cycle?

A

earth, moon, sun and maybe the tilt of earth as it moves around the sun diff regions of earth are closer or further from sun

44
Q

what are tide cyc;es?

A

in diff location are function of basin shape, basin size and latitude

45
Q

what are tidal buldges?

A

giant incoming waves
- more shallow = more noticeable

46
Q

what happens in narrowing channels?

A

amplified or dampened tides or causes tidal bores and Seiches

47
Q

what affects predicted tides?

A

coastlines

48
Q

tidal bore

A

tide moving up a river channel and outflow is overpowered and creates breaker that pushes water forward

49
Q

Seiche

A

standing wave caused by the wave reflecting off shorelines

50
Q

what factor affects tides?

A

weather patterns
- atmospheric pressure
- low pressure cause storm surge or storm tides - Irma

Bio 361- marine science (20 decks)

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