Coastal ecosystems Flashcards
What is abrasion
Where loose material in the waves hits and breaks down the walls, floors of the river, cliff or glacier
What is backshore
The upper beach closest to the land, including any cliffs or sand dunes
What is beach morphology
the surface shape of the beach
What is coastal recession
The retreat of a coastline due to the erosion, seallevel rise or submergence
What is a concordant coastline
A coastlne where bands of alternate gelogu run parallel to the coast (same type of rock however alternation as erodes)
What is a dalmation coast
A concordant coastline with several river valleys running perpendiculer to the coast. They becme flooded to produce parallel long islands
DEFRA’s 1:1 Cost-benefit Analysis
The evaluation of a coastal town’s economic value compared to the cost of the management required
What is a discordant coastline
a coastline whee bands of alternate geology run perpendiculer to the shore
What is dynamic equlibrium
Where a natural system tries to archive a balance by making coastal change in response to a constantly changing system
What is an emergent coastline
A coastline that is advancing relative to the sea level at the time
What is Eustatic sea level change
Global changes to sea levels
What is foreshore
The lower part of the beach overed twice a day at high tide (the part of the beach that receives the most reguler wave action)
What is freezethraw weathing
A form of physical sub-ariel weathering where water freezes in the cracks of a rock, expands and enlarges the crack, therefore weakens the rock
What is geology
The structural arrangement of the rock
What is glacial erosion
The removal of loose material by glacier ce, involving plucking, abrasion, crushing and bsal meltware (necessary in the formation of fjords)
What is grading
The layering of sediments based on their size
What is a high energy environment
A coast where wave action is predominantly large destructive waves, causing much erosion. The rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
What does impermeable rock mean
A rock that does not allow rainwater to pass through
What is Isostatic sealevel change
A change in local coastline or land height relative to the sea level
Littoral Cell
A section of the coast, whin which involves much sediment movement. A littoral cell is not a closed system
What does permeable rock mean
A rock that allows rainwater to pass through it
What is plant succession
Change to a plant community due to growling conditions adapting (e.g. sand dunes and salt marshes)
What are subariel process
A combination of mass movement and weathering that affects the coastal land above sea level
What is a submergent coastline
A coast that is sinking relative to the sea level at the time
What is a till
Deposits of aguler rock gragments in a fine medium
What causes a submergent coastline
Ethier Eustatic change from rising sea levels or isostatic change possibly from glacial ice
What is a sediment cell
The concept of a sediment cell is that coasts are split up to sections and bordered by prominent headlands.
Within each cell there are smaller sub cells.
This means the movement of sediment is almost contained so the sediment has dynamic equilibrium.
The sediment cell has inputs such as wind, waves, pollution and outputs such as rip tides and ocean currents.
Sediment cells also have stores such as beaches, spits, cliffs. These stores are transferred throughout
The sediment cell through processes such as longshore drift
What is the littoral zone
The littoral zone is the area of land between the cliff’s or dunes on the coast and the offshore
area that is beyond the influence of the waves .
Describe the process of the formation of a wave - start to finish
Winds move across the surface of the water, causing frictional drag (resistance to the
wind by the water) which creates small ripples and waves . This leads to a circular orbital
motion of water particles in the ocean
● As the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline, the orbit of the water particles
becomes more elliptical, leading to more horizontal movement of the waves
● The wave height increases, but the wavelength (distance between two waves) and
wave velocity both decrease
● This causes water to back up from behind the wave until the wave breaks (collapses)
and surges up the beach
What factors affect wave energy
Strength of the wind
Duration of the wind (how active the wind is)
Size of the fetch (the distance over which the wind blows)
What are the features of a constructive wave: (formation, wavelength, frequency, wave and swash characteristics and effects on beach)
Formation: Formed by weather systems that operate in the open ocean
Wavelength: Long wavelength
Frequency: 6-9 per minute
Wave characteristics: Low waves, which surge up the beach
Swash characteristics: Strong swash, weak backwash
Effects on beach: Occurs on gently slopped beaches
What are the features of a Destructive wave: (formation, wavelength, frequency, wave and swash characteristics and effects on beach)
Formation: Localised storm events with strong winds operating close to the coast
Wavelength: Short wavelength
Frequency: 11-16 per minute
Wave characteristics: High waves, which plunge onto the beach
Swash characteristics: Weak swash, Strong backwash
Effects on beach: Occurs on steeply slopped beaches
The types of waves in a coastal environment vary depending on the time of year. Explain how
In the summer constructive waves dominate but in the winter destructive waves dominate.
Constructive waves may become destructive waves if a storm begins
Climate change may increase the storm frequency within the UK
Coastal management may affect the type of waves that occur
What is a form of negative feed back in beaches and waves
The presence of contructive waves cause deposition on the beach which lead to the beach becoming steaper and favouring formation of destructive waves. The destructive waves erode the beach and reducing the beach profile which favours and leads to the formation of constructive waves
What is spring tide
The highest high tide and the lowest low tides occur when the mood and the sun are in alignment as their gravitational force effectively pul the oceans towards them
What is neap tide
The lowest high tide and the highest low tide, this occurs when the sun and the moon are perpendicular to each other. Both of their gravitational forces act against each other, so the overall pull is minimised at high tide, but therefore creates a higher low tide. The neap tide creates the smallest tidal range possible
What is a low-energy environment
Waves are predominelty constructive and tends to occur in sheltered areas. They tend to be fairly sandy areas. The rates of deposition exceed the rate of erosion
What is wave refraction
The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines. The wave energy is focused on the headland, creating erosional features. The energy is dissipated in bays