Ch. 20 part 1 Flashcards
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are_______________bonds.
peptide
Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by:
peptide bonds
Keratin proteins are made of long chains of__________linked together end-to-end like beads.
amino acids
What type of bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together?
Disulfide
The action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and:
expand the hair
The chemical action of____________breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.
waving lotion
__________hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution.
Coarse
_________hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.
Porous
The alkalinity of the perm chosen should correspond to the resistance, strength, and __________of the cuticle layer.
porosity
What is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms?
Ammonium thioglycolate
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
Glycerol monothioglycolate
What type of perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product?
Exothermic
Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are:
acid-balanced waves
A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer, is known as:
endothermic
What type of hair is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services?
Fine
What type of hair usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing?
Coarse
The amount of processing should be determined by the _____________, not necessarily the perm’s processing time.
strength of the solution
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first__________minutes.
five to ten
A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately____________percent of the hair’s disulfide bonds.
50
If too many__________bonds are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl.
disulfide
Neutralization rebuilds _______ that were broken by the waving solution.
disulfide bonds
if the hair is underprocessed, further processing will make it:
curlier
If the hair is not____________, the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the hair color to lighten.
rinsed properly
Always rinse perm solution from the hair for at least__________minutes before applying the neutralizer.
five
Some manufacturers recommend the application of a_____________after blotting and before application of the neutralizer.
pre-neutralizing conditioner
What type of liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged?
Acidic
Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the________that was added by the permanent waving solution.
hydrogen
What test is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break, dry, or frizz?
Preliminary test curl
Which type of rods have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends?
Concave
Straight rods are equal in______________along their entire length or curling area and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand.
diameter
End papers, or end wraps, are thin, absorbent papers used to_____________of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.
control the ends
The_________is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped.
double flat wrap
The________uses only one end paper and is placed over the top of the strand of hair.
single flat wrap
When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope, it is called the______________
bookend wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into subsections called?
base sections
“Base placement” refers to the position of the rod in relation to its____________and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
base section
For________________, the hair is wrapped 45-degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
on-base placement
For________, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.
half off-base placement
For_________, the hair is wrapped 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base section.
off-base placement
The_____________wrap is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane.
spiral
A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair is the:
double-rod wrap
The basic perm wrap is also called a_________wrap.
straight set
In the_____________wrap, partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.
curvature
Which wrap is used to prevent noticable splits and to blend the flow of the hair?
Bricklay
The____________wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
weave technique
Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called:
partial perming
In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section, use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section when giving a:
partial perm
Many male clients are looking for added__________, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide.
texture
Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause___________, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
uneven curls
When performing a procedure for a preliminary test curl, wrap one rod in each different area of the head, including the top, the side, and the:
nape
