Ch. 20 I/A Flashcards
What is the primary goal of makeup?
Is to enhance the clients natural beauty by bringing out the most attractive features of the face, while minimizing those that are less attractive.
Why study facial makeup?
Enhance our reputation, , confidence, grow your clientele, and increase menu services and revenues.
Colors that cannot be obtained from a mixture. Yellow, red, and blue. Main spectral colors of light seen in a prism from sunlight.
Primary Colors
Colors obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. Yellow mixed with red makes orange. Red mixed with blue makes violet. Yellow mixed with blue makes green. Orange, green and purple/violet.
Secondary Colors
Yellow mixed with red makes?
Orange
Red mixed with blue makes?
Violet
Yellow mixed with blue makes?
Green
These colors are formed by mixing equal amounts of a primary color and its neighboring secondary color on the color wheel. These colors are named by primary color first, secondary color second. When we mix blue (a primary) color with violet (a neighboring secondary), we call the resulting color blue-violet.
Tertiary Colors
A primary and secondary color directly opposite each other on the color wheel are called?
Complementary Colors
The actual color we see that distinguishes red from yellow from blue. Is the distinct characteristic of the color. Colors can be mixed with white, black, or gray to yield other colors, or ____. ____ depend on the dominant wavelength of light emitted or reflected from an object.
Hue
White added to a pure hue is called a?
Tint
Adding black to a pure hue is referred to as a?
Shade
Adding gray to a pure hue is called a?
Tone
This is the intensity, or strength, of a color? Colors are either pale or strong.
Saturation
The _____ or brightness of a color is how light or dark it is. This depends on the amount of light emanating from the color. If it is lighter and closer to white, the color is brighter and higher in _____.
Value
These colors have a yellow undertone and range from yellow and gold through the oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens?
Warm Colors
These colors have a blue undertone, suggest coolness, and are dominated by blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds?
Cool Colors
Reds can be both cool and warm. If the red is orange-based, it is ____. If it is blue-based, it is ____.
Warm/Cool
Greens are also warm and cool and can be tricky: if a green contains more gold, it is ____; if it contains more blue, it is ____.
Warm/Cool
Higher quality products do what for the client and their product?
Glide on easier, wont tug on delicate tissue, will be more satisfied with product and application, product will last longer.
Tinted cosmetic used to even out skin tone and color, conceal imperfections, and protect the skin from the outside climate, dirt, and pollution. Also helps tone down dark circles, blemishes, pigmentation, redness, and other facial features.
Foundation/base makeup
Foundations that contain mineral oil or other oils? Good choices for normal to dry skin.
Oil Based Foundations
Oil-free products are referred to as _____ ______. _____ _____ foundations generally give a more _____ (non shiny, dull) finish and help conceal minor blemishes and discolorations. Preferred for oily skin.
Water Based(2)/Matte
Many foundations now contain what to protect the skin?
Barrier agents, sunscreens and silicone
Liquids or silicone-based formulas designed to go underneath foundations and tother products to prepare the skin for makeup and to help keep the product on the skin?
Primers
Some ______ foundations are suspensions of organic and inorganic pigments in alcohol and water-based solutions. Bentonite (a clay base) is added to hep keep the products blended. Generally suited for clients with oily to normal skin conditions who desire sheer to medium coverage. Other ______ foundations are oil based.
Liquid
_____ foundations are thicker and give medium to heavier coverage. These are generally suited for dry skin to normal skin. Pancake makeup is a oil based and heavy.
Cream
Heavy cream foundation. Normally applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge. Gives good coverage and is generally used to camouflage scars and pigmentation defects. Used in theater, film, an video applications. ___________ is a term for heavy cream makeup used for theatrical purposes.
Cake makeup (pancake makeup)/Greasepaint
Cream-to-powder foundations are moist on application but ___ to a _______ finish.
Dry/powdery
_______ ______ is composed of minerals and other ingredients and is designed to be healthy for the skin. A _______ -_____ foundation is considered more noncomedogenic and natural than liquid foundation.
Mineral makeup/mineral-based
Used to cover blemishes and discolorations and my and applied before or after foundations? Available in pots, pencils, wands, or sticks. May contain moisturizers or control oil, depending on the formulation.
Concealers
Used to add a matte, or non shiny, finish to the face. It enhances the skin’s natural color, helping conceal minor blemishes and discolorations, and diminish excess color or shine. Sets foundation.
Face Powder (loose and pressed)
Available in cream, liquid, dry (pressed), or loose powder form. Gives the face a natural-looking glow and helps create facial contours.
Blush
Accentuates and contour the eyes. Available in almost every color of the rainbow—from warm to cool, neutral to bright, and light to dark. Wet or dry, cream or pressed, matte, frost, or shimmer.
Eyeshadow
Used to emphasize the eyes. Available in pencil, liquid, and pressed (cake) form. Can make eyes appear larger and the lashes fuller. Pencil is the most commonly used. Liquid or gel create a more dramatic look. Powder can be applied wet or dry. Powder applied wet is more vivid and stays on longer than when applied dry.
Eyeliners
Used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. Used to darken the eyebrows, correct their shape, or fill in the sparse areas. For best results, match the natural brow color or use a close shade of brown.
Eyebrow Color
Darkens, defines, and thickens the eyelashes. Available in liquid, cake, and cream form in various shades and tints. Most popular is liquid n black or brown. These colors enhance the natural lashes, making them appear thicker and longer.
Mascara
What is considered when choosing a makeup application?
Natural skin tone, hair color, eye color, and face shape. Lifestyle and preferences are also factors in choosing a look.
Either 1. oil based (mineral oil with fragrance) or 2. water based (water solutions with witch hazel, boric acid, oils, lanolin, or lanolin derivatives, and other solvents). Not recommended when wearing contacts.
Makeup removers.
Give color to the face and finish a makeup designs. Color worn alone enhances the face like no other product can. Some contain sunscreen. Most contain moisturizers. Available in creams, glosses, pencils, and sticks. All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes. Castor oil is common. Olive oil, minerals, sesame, cocoa butter, petroleum, lecithin, and hydrogenated vegetable oils. D&C Red and No. 27, D&C Orange No. 17 Lake, are common coloring agents. Lipgloss, plumpers, and stains are also popular.
Lip Color
Three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client
- skin color
- eye color
- hair color
What must you decide when determining skin color?
If the skin is light, medium, or dark.
What are you determining with skin tone?
If the skin is warm or cool.
*Most of the population has warm skin color with yellow undertones.
- Pink - cool/warm
- Blue - cool
- Purple - cool/warm
- Green - cool/warm
- Brown - warm
- Red - warm/cool
- Black - neural
- White - cool/neutral
- Gray - neutral
Color temperatures
Tones Undertones
Ivory to fair Fair, light skin with creamy or slight pink undertones
Beige or med Medium skin with pink or yellow
Olive or warm Olive skin with gold/yellow or orange/red
Deep or dark Dark skin with brown/yellow, brown/red, or br/bl
Skin tones
Skin that is red, wind burned, or affected by rosacea, apply a yellow- or green-tinted foundation to the affected areas. You can apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow base over the entire complexion. Set with translucent or yellow-based powder. Avoid using red or pink blushes.
Ruddy Skin
Skin that has a yellowish hue, apply a pink-based foundation on the affected areas and blend carefully into the jaw and neck. Set with translucent powder. Avoid using yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and lips.
Sallow skin
Complementary colors for blue eyes
Orange. Makes eyes look bluer. Common choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns lie mauves and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel. Orange is a warm color and is not flattering to all skin tones, use sparingly.
Complementary colors for green eyes
Red. Red shadows tent to make the eyes look tired or bloodshot, pure-red tones are not recommended. Instead, use brown-based reds or other color options next to red on the color wheel. These include red-orange, red-violet, and violet. Popular choices are coopers, rusts, and purples.
Popular colors for brown eyes
Brown eyes are neutral and can wear any color. Recommended choices include contrasting colors like greens or blues. Gray (cool) is not as flattering when combined with brown (warm), because warm and cool colors together will clash.
Color selection for cheek and lip color
Coordinate the cheek and lip makeup in the same color family as the eye makeup.
Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining makeup colors.
Match the color temperature with the hair color temperature.
Reviewing Color Selections
- Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.
- Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.
- Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, other.
- Determine complementary colors.
- Determine hair color: warm or cool.
- Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors.
- Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, cool, or neutral.
- Apply makeup based on clients preferences from two or three olor choices per product.
What are you matching foundations to?
Skin tone. Warm, cool, or neutral. Warm tones have yellow undertones. Cool tones have blue undertones. Neutral skin has equal amounts of warm and cool tones. If too light looks chalky or ghostly appearance and will sit on top of the skin. If too dark, looks dirty or artificial on the skin. Best way to determine foundation color for your client is to apply a 1- to 2-inch vertical stripe of color below the cheek down onto the jawline. Blend slightly and then try other colors if necessary. The color that disappears and blends in is the correct one. Apply with fingertips, makeup sponge, or brush, using short strokes. Patting or stippling gives a better coverage. Primers underneath makeup help the product go on smoother and stay on longer.
Concealer application
Concealer is usually one to two shades lighter than foundation. Under or over foundation beneath the eyes and on other areas to conceal. Brush, fingertips, or sponge. Remove with a spatula like lip color. Can be used alone or with makeup. Can also be used as a highlighter. Light shades bring out features and dark cause the to recede.
Are lighter than the skin color, and thy accentuate and bring out features such as the brow bond under the eyebrow, the temples, the chin, and the cheekbones. Highlighters are used more extensively in photography than in everyday use.
Highighters
Are darker shades used to define the cheekbones and makes features appear smaller. Dark colors recede or diminish features.
Contouring (shading)
*Both highlighting and contouring are found in liquid and powder form. Applied similar to shadow, blush, or concealer application.
Blends with all foundation and will not change color when applied. Sets foundation and finishes the makeup blending. Also applied after the blush to set the blush. Applying too much can make skin appear dry ad draw attention to wrinkles. Apply with brush.
Translucent powder
- Highlight color is lighter than the client’s skin tone. Popular choices include matte (non-shiny) or iridescent (shiny). Highlight brow bone. Lighter color such as white will make an area appear larger.
- Base color is generally a medium tone that is close to the client’s skin tone. Used to even out the skin tone on the eye. Often applied all over the lid and brow bone from lash to brow, before other colors are applied. If used this way, a matte finish is preferred.
- Contour color is deeper and darker than the client’s skin tone. It is applied to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or to define the eyelash line.
- Brings out the eyes
Eye shadow application
Gives color to the face an accentuates cheekbones. Apply just below the cheekbones, blending on top of the bones towards the top of the cheeks. Applied with a brush, creams with a stiff brush, fingers, or sponges. Keep away from the nose and temples.
Blush application
Accentuates the eyes. Applied before or after eye shadow. Same color as lashes or mascara for a more natural look or intense colors to match shadow colors or seasonal color trends. Pencils, brush dipped in water with shadow or wet liner, liquids or gels. On the top and bottom edge of the eye on the outside of the lashes, not on the inner part of the eye.
Eyeliner application
Lower lashes coated first. Rest hand lightly on the face for more control. Let set for a few seconds before having them look down to apply to the upper lashes. Move side to side for more coverage applying from base to tip. Never double dip.
Lash curlers: Curl before coating the lashes. Clients may prefer to curl their own lashes.
Mascara application
Measure the brow shape and follow the shaping guidelines as closely as possible. Check the brows before beginning the service to tweeze any stray hairs. Avoid contrast colors such as pale-blond or silver hair with black eyebrows. Taupe or gray are good color choices. Brown is usually a good choice, but reddish-browns can be an unflattering tone. Use a sweeping motion to follow the pattern of the hair. Blend back and forth inside the brow line to achieve a natural look.
Eyebrow color application
Consider the client’s preference, eye color, skin tone, and lip shape before selecting and applying color. Light colors makes lips appear larger; dark colors make lips look smaller; however, brighter colors show up more. Give clients 2 or 3 shades to choose from.
- Lip gloss can give a shiny moisturized look to the lips
- Lip conditioner: put on the lip moisturizer (or gloss) when starting the makeup application, so it can soak in and moisturize before staring to apply the liner. If lips have too much gloss, the liner will not stick. A primer, foundation, or plumper can be applied prior to the lip color.
- Lip liners are colored pencils used to line and define the lips. Lining the lips also helps keep lip color on and keeps it from feathering. Often used with corrective makeup. Come in thin or thick pencil and some double as lipstick. Choose a color that coordinates with the natural lip color and lipstick.
- To define and shape used before lip color
- Lipstick: lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color. Use the tip of the brush to follow the lip line. For long-lasting color, use a liner and then a lipstick with gloss over the lipstick.
Lip color application
- Fingernails short with smooth edges
- Blending and evenness
- Apply creams or liquids before powders,not afterward
- Avoid tugging on the skin or rubbing to hard
- Do not hold the client’s head or lift the eye skin unless it is absolutely necessary. Can feel too rough.
- When applying shadow have client close eyes to avoid getting products in the eyes
- When applying foundation and powders apply downward with the facial hairs
Makeup application, tips and guidelines
- cleanse, tone, moisturize
- lip conditioner
- concealer (before and after foundation)
- foundation
- highlight
- contour
- powder
- eyebrows (before or after eyes)
- eye shadow
- eye liner (before or after shadow)
- mascara
- blush (before or after eyes)
- lip conditioner
- lip liner
- lipstick (optional: gloss)
Makeup application steps
The artistically ideal proportions and features of the oval face are the standard you can refer to when learning the techniques of corrective makeup application. The face is divided into three equal horizontal sections. The first third is measured form the hairline to the top of the eyebrows. the second third is measured from the top of the eyebrows to the end of the nose. The final third is measured from the end of the nose to the bottom of the chin. The ideal oval face is approximately three-fourths as wide as it is long. The distance between the eyes is the width of one eye. The goal of effective makeup application is to enhance the client’s individuality and unique beauty, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard.
Analyzing face shapes
Mainly involves using light and dark colors to highlight and contour features. Can create the illusion of better balance and proportion when desired. Can be effective if applied properly; however, a new makeup artist should proceed with caution because improper application, insufficient blending, or the wrong choice of colors can make the face look artificial. Highlighting emphasizes a feature while shadowing minimizes it.
Corrective makeup
When applying makeup, you can blend the foundation onto the neck so that the clients color is consistent from face to neck. Always set with translucent powder to avoid transfer onto the client;s clothing.
For a small face and a short, thick neck use a lightly darker foundation on the side of the neck than the one used on the face. This will make the neck appear thinner.
Jawline and neck area
- Round eyes can be lengthened by extending the shadow beyond the outer corner of the eyes.
- Close-set eyes are closer together than the width of one eye. For eyes that are too close together, lightly apply darker shadow on the outer edge of the eyes and light on the inside near the nose.
- Protruding eyes can be minimized by blending a darker shadow carefully over the prominent part of the eyelid, carrying it lightly toward the eyebrow. Use a medium to deep shadow color.
- For heavy-lidded eyes, shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket. Use a light color on the lid and a medium to dark color (sparingly) above the crease.
- To make small eyes appear larger, extend the shadows slightly beyond the side of the eyes.
- To correct wide-set eyes, apply the shadows to the inner side of the eyelid toward the nose, and blend carefully.
- For deep-set eyes, use bright, light, reflective colors. Use the lightest color in the crease, and a light to medium color sparingly on the lid and brown bone.
- To diminish dark circles under the eyes, apply concealer over the dark area, blending and smoothing it into the surrounding area. Set lightly with translucent powder.
Corrective eye makeup techniques
Green cancels out red, yellow tones down purple
Colors tones
The ideal eyebrow shape can be measured by using three lines. The first line is vertical, measuring from the widest side of the nose and inner corner of the eye upward. This is where the eyebrow should begin. The second line is from the outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye. This is where the eyebrow should end. The third line is vertical, from the outer circle of the iris (colored part of the eye) upward to the highest point of the brow arch. The client should be looking straight ahead as you determine this line. This third line is where the highest part of the brow arch would ideally be. These are just guidelines. Use a brow pencil to draw little dots and mark the three points.
The ideal eyebrow shape
Follow the lip line as close as possible. The peaks of the upper lip should fall directly in line with the center of the nostrils.
Lips
With special occasions you need to consider lighting… means more definition is required for eyes, cheeks, and lips. You may also add drama by applying false lashes and using more shimmery colors on the eyes, lips, cheeks, or complexion. With photography it is recommended to use matte colors. Do not intensify all features as this will result in an overdone harsh look. Intensify the eyes and lips, but no the eyes, cheeks, and lips. Offer waxing services before the occasion…not recommended on the day of the event. Classic timeless look is best for weddings…prepare colors and special requests before the day of. High definition and airbrush makeup is common for photography and video application.
Special occasion makeup
Post surgery, permanent scars, or disfigurements.
Camouflage makeup
- Band lashes, also known as strip lashes, are eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line.
- Individual lashes are separate artificial eyelashes that are applied on top of the upper lashes one at a time. These are more natural-looking than band lashes. Individual eyelashes attach directly to a client’s own lashes on the base. This process is sometime referred to as eye tabbing.
- Test for allergies by placing a drop of the adhesive behind one ear or attach a single individual eyelash to an eyelid. Check for a reaction in 24 hours.
Artificial eyelashes
Fo not use tints with aniline derivatives (coal-tar based). Not FDA approved and can cause blindness. Some tints are illegal in the US, but are still available from retailers for use. Do not use if they do not say legal to use in your region. You can be fined and loose your license. Permanent hair color should not be used on brows. Vegetable dyes are allowed in some regions but do not work as well or last as long. Some regions prohibit eyelash and eyebrow tinting using any type of coloring product. Check with local laws and regulations to see what is legal in your area.
Regulatory Alert
Micro-pigmentation, micro-pigment implantation, or dermagraphics. Eyebrow and eyeliner are the most popular. Scar camouflage and body are are also offered.
Permanent cosmetic makeup
Makeup artist in clinical offices, film/video, theater, and fashion.
Career as a makeup artist
Provide makeup services outside of the salon for photography, video, and events. Studios, movies, theater, fashion shows, and special events all require on-location makeup and services. Men also need makeup for video, fashion, and print work. Exciting and fast paced. Challenging and need to be flexible, quick, and organized to keep up with the crew and schedule. Work area may be limited and lighting is not always available, but can be rewarding.
Freelance makeup artistry
Is a significant part of the business. Also an effective way to increase your income. Most salons will pay you 5 to 10 percent of every product you retail. If you focus on retailing to every client this amount will add up quickly.
Retailing
Also known as strip lashes; eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line.
Band lashes
Also known as pancake makeup; a heavy-coverage makeup pressed into a compact and applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge.
cake makeup
Primary and secondary colors opposite one another on the color wheel.
complementary colors
Cosmetics used to cover blemishes and discolorations; may be applied before or after foundation.
concealers
Colors with a blue undertone that suggest coolness and are dominated by blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds.
cool colors
Procedure in which individual synthetic eyelashes are attached directly to a client’s own lashes a their base.
eye tabbing
Also known as base makeup a tinted cosmetic used to cover or even out skin tone and coloring of the skin.
foundation
Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes.
greasepaint
Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied on top of the lashes one at a time.
individual lashes
Nonshiny; dull.
matte
Yellow, red, and blue; fundamental colors that cannot be obtained from a mixture.
primary colors
Colors obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
secondary colors
Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.
tertiary colors
The range of colors with yellow undertones; from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens.
warm colors
