Ch. 13 Fire Flashcards
0
Q
Fatty Acids that have been exposed hydrogen. They are not drying; they have a wax-like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents. Examples are cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol.
A
Fatty Alcohols
1
Q
An emollient and lubricant; a clear, odorless substance derived from the earth especially from petroleum sources. Are time tested, offer excellent protection against dehydration, and help prevent irritant skin contact. They are completely nonreactive and biologically inert, which means that they do not react with other chemicals involved in the skin’s function.
A
Mineral Oil and Petrolatum
2
Q
One of the biggest categories of cosmetic ingredients. Reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product, and increase the spreadability of cosmetic products.
A
Surfactants
3
Q
What are the main types of surfactants used in skin-cleaning products?
A
Detergents; sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Lauryl is bad, laureth is good.
4
Q
Naturally occurring mild acids used as chemical exfoliants.
A
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)
5
Q
Glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric.
A
AHA’s (Stronger than BHA’s)
*Citric Acid used to be a BHA, but is not considered a mild AHA
6
Q
Salicylic Acid
A
BHA’s
7
Q
Vitamins, amino acids, and other natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals and help skin cope with the damaging effects of environmental influences.
A
Antioxidants
*Aging or sun-damaged skin needs antioxidants both topically and orally.
8
Q
Vitamins A, C, and E.
A
Antioxidants
9
Q
Vitamin C, Easter Vitamin C, Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, Coenzyme Q10
A
Antioxidant Ingredients
10
Q
Octinaxate (octyl methoxycinnimate), Octisalate (octyl salicylate), Oxybenzone (benzophenone).
A
Organic Chemical Sunscreens
11
Q
Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide.
A
Inorganic Physical Sunscreens
12
Q
Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration. Ingredients with a concentration of less than 1% may be listed in any order at the bottom. Fragrance must be listed as “fragrance,” but the ingredients need not be listed.
A
Cosmetic Labels
13
Q
Dark containers and in cooler temperatures help products to last longer. Up to three years.
A
Proper storing of products for maximum life length.
14
Q
Used in creams and masks; rich in vitamin A. Have the primary benefits of being an antioxidant, moisturizing, and soothing.
A
Carrot
15
Q
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances. It is anti-inflammatory and an antiseptic; its deodorizing action protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin.
A
Urea
16
Q
An anti-irritant good for sensitive skin; also inhibits melanin production. It is soothing, and is used to lighten surface hyper-pigmentation.
A
Licorice
17
Q
Cools skin and constricts capillaries; has refreshing properties; contains menthol. Reduces irritation and itching. It’s primary property is cooling. Skin benefits decreases circulation.
A
Peppermint
18
Q
An exotic scent used for aromatherapy; good for skin irritations. Primary property of being soothing and antiseptic properties. Has anti-inflammatory skin benefits.
A
Sandalwood
19
Q
Used for many beauty products. Is moisturizing and calming.
A
Olive
20
Q
Popular herb and oil used for aromatherapy and calming. Primary property is soothing, but is also anti-inflammatory, and has antiseptic properties. Has healing skin benefits.
A
Lavender
21
Q
Primary property is soothing. Has moisturizing skin benefits.
A
Jasmine
22
Q
Primary benefits are stimulating, and uplifting. Astringent skin benefits.
A
Orange
23
Q
Primary property is stimulating. Skin benefits of increased circulation.
A
Eucalyptus and Rosemary
24
Plant extract; used for sensitive skin. Primary benefits are calming, and anti-inflammatory.
Chamomile
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Hydrating, toning, and tightening effects; used in masks and scrubs.
Honey
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Decyl Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Myristly Lactate, Coconut Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Sesame Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Most D & C Red Pigments, Octyldodecanol, *Peanut Oil, Lauric Acid, Mink Oil.
Moderately Comedogenic Ingredients
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Corn Oil, Safflower Oil, Laury Alcohol, *Lanolin Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, *Lanolin, Sunflower Oil, Avocado Oil, Mineral Oil.
Mildly Comedogenic
*Note: Mildly comedogenic ingredients are generally not a problem when used in diluted concentrations.
28
*Petrolatum, Glycerin, Squalane, Sorbitol, SodiumPCA, Zinc Stearate, Octyldodecyl Stearate, SD Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Water, Iron Oxides, Dimenthicone, Cyclomethicone, Polysorbates, Cetyl Palmitate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Jojoba Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Octylmethoxycinnimate, Oxybenzone, Butylene Glycol, Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone.
Noncomedogenic
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Green Tea, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (licorice root), Squalane oil (vegetable oil from green olives)- rich in vitamins A, D, and E, Seaweed. Chamomile, Micronized Vitamin E, Panthenol-VITAMIN B5, Allantoin, Guarana (an anti-inflammatory and decongestant), Rose Essential Oil.
Ingredients that are beneficial for mature skin and rosacea.
30
Used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the _______. The heat increases blood circulation and is beneficial for dry mature skin or skin that is dull and lifeless. It has a plumping and softening effect on the skin.
Paraffin/Paraffin Wax Masks
31
Detergent-type "foaming" cleanser with a neutral or slightly acid pH. Designed to dissolve more oil. "Squeaky Clean" feeling, sometime tight or dry feeling. Good for oily or combination skin. For acne-prone skin, an antimicrobial agent may be added to kill bacteria.
Cleansing Gel
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Water-based emulsion for normal and combination skin. For dry, skin, "milky: lotion cleansers containing more oils or emollients that soften the skin are recommended. Do not strip the skin's natural oil or pH balance.
Cleansing Lotion
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Water-in-oil emulsion used primarily to dissolve makeup and dirt. It is suitable for very dry and mature skin. Heavier than cleansing lotion. Actors and other performers use these products to remove heavy stage makeup. Like dissolves like, so oil dissolves oil. Remove with sponge or soft cloth to prevent residue. Toners can help remove the residue.
Cleansing Cream
34
Use twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin.
Moisturizers
35
Used one to two time per week and are rinsed off with water. Remove dead epidermal cells. Makes skin texture smoother. Deep pore cleansing and makes extractions easier.
Exfoliants
36
Is an ancient healing practice using essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body, mind, and spirit.
Aromatherapy
37
Fatty materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin. They can act as either vehicles (functional) or performance ingredients. As vehicles or performance vehicles, they help place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin. As performance ingredients, emollients lubricate the skin's surface and guard the barrier function. Lie on top of the skin and prevent dehydration by trapping water and decreasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Emollients
*Silicones and oils are both emollients
38
If skin becomes excessively red or the client complains of burning, immediately remove product and rinse the skin with cold water. Having a cortisone cream available and products to calm skin reactions is a recommended precaution.
Allergic Reactions
39
The sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses.
The Olfactory System
40
Masks, such as cucumber and aloe, designed to stay moist and are more hydrating. Usually applied once a week, after exfoliation for best results and penetration. Also referred to as cream masks or gel masks, not formulated to dry. These nourish or treat the skin rather than give it a deep cleaning. Beneficial for sensitive, couperose, aging, or dry skin because ingredients such as collagen, aloe, and seaweed have excellent hydrating properties.
Nonsetting Masks
41
Cream masks are used for dry skin. Gel masks are used for sensitive or dehydrated skin. Collagen masks are plumping, calming, and diminishing wrinkles.
Forms of Nonsetting Masks
42
Draw impurities to the surface of the skin as the mask dries and tightens. Contain clay, kaolin, bentonite, or silica for their tightening and sebum-absorbing effects. Stronger masks are used on oily and combination skin. Masks with sulfur have healing and antiseptic properties that have a beneficial effect on acne. Applied with a mask brush or fingers and allowed to set for 10 minutes.
Clay Masks
43
Alginate masks are often seaweed based. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or sometimes serums. After mixing they are quickly applied to the face and then dry to form a rubberized texture. A treatment cream or serum is generally applied under them. Forms a seal that encourages the skin's absorption of the serum or cream underneath. These professional masks are generally used only in the salon and are not retailed for home use.
Algae and Seaweed Masks
44
Also known as thermal masks, contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. Used with nourishing products underneath. Mixed with water immediately before application and applied about 1/4th-inch thick, the modelage mask sets up and hardens. The chemical reaction that occurs when the plaster and the crystal mix with the water produces a gradually increasing temperature thats reaches approximately 105 degrees. Left on the skin, the mask gradually cools. Setting time is approximately 20 minutes. Increases circulation and is very beneficial for dry, mature skin or dull-looking skin.
Modelage Masks
45
Used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the mask. The heat increases blood circulation and is beneficial for dry, mature skin or skin that is dull and lifeless. It has a plumping and softening effect on the skin. Applied on top of a treatment cream to allows for deeper penetration of the creams ingredients into the skin.
Paraffin Wax Masks
46
Derived from fresh fruits, vegetables, milk, yogurt, or eggs have been used traditionally for many years. Ingredients such as honey an almond meal or oatmeal can be mixed with milk into a paste for use as mask. These masks are beneficial unless the person is allergic to a particular substance.
Custom-designed Masks
47
1. Protecting skin from the elements.
2. Nourishing skin through ingredients.
3. Balancing the oil-water content of skin.
4. Treating various skin conditions such as redness, aging, or dryness.
Benefits of Moisturizers and Hydrators
48
Formulated to add moisture to the skin. Lotions, hydrators, and creams. Used twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin. Applied at the end of a facial and are intended for daily use as a day cream or makeup base. Available for various skin types and conditions, from acne-prone skin to dry and mature skin.
Moisturizers
49
Also referred to as nourishing creams, are designed to moisturize and condition the skin-especially during sleep, when normal tissue repair is taking place. Are often heavier in consistency and texture than moisturizers are and they contain more emollient and active ingredients. Specialty treatment products for oily skin usually have very little or no emollient.
Treatment Creams
50
These are designed to provide slip (gliding ability) for massage while also nourishing and treating skin conditions.
Massage Creams
*Lotions and oils. Massage lotions are also blended with aromatherapy oils.
51
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Jojoba
52
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, or water.
Rose
53
Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent.
Witch Hazel
54
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, non oily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service.
Aromatherapy
55
Skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content.
Fresheners
56
Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin's surface.
Toners
57
Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin.
Astringents
58
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin. Granular scrubs, such as those made with almond meal or jojoba beads, or treatments that use a brushing machine. The movement of the brushes or scrubs removes cells from the surface of the corneum.
Mechanical Exfoliation
59
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or "glue," that holds them together (desmosomes). Dissolved by chemical agents such as AHAs.
Chemical Exfoliation
60
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin. Involve the use of kertolytic enzymes, which help speed up the breakdown of keratin, the protein in the skin. Another enzyme often used is papain, which is derived from the papaya. Another frequently used enzyme is pancreatin (derived from beef by-products). Pumpkin and pineapple (bromelain) are other popular enzymes.
Enzyme Peels
61
Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin.
Masks
62
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions.
Serums
63
Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base.
Ampoules
64
The ___ views cosmetics according to the Cosmetic Act of 1938, which distinguishes between drugs and cosmetics. Cosmetics are defined by the ___ as: articles that attended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. In contrast, drugs are products (other than food) intended to affect the structures and/or functions of the human body of humans or other animals. These definitions are important because they state that estheticians cannot make claims that a product or treatment can affect the structure or function of the skin. Estheticians focus on improving the skin's cosmetic appearance. The ___ does not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale. The ___ regulates cosmetics only in the areas of Safety, labeling and the claims made for a product.
FDA
65
Make up the majority of a product; they allow products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. These ingredients do not affect the appearance of the skin but are necessary to the product formulation. A preservative is an example.
Functional Ingredients
66
Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin. Examples include glycerin, which hydrates the skin's surface; alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's), which exfoliate the corneum; and lipids, which help patch the skin's barrier. Sometimes referred to as active ingredients, which is an official term for use in the drug industry to indicate ingredients that chemically cause physiological changes.
Performance Ingredients
67
Third category of Cosmetic ingredients. Products intended to improve the skin's health and appearance. Stronger performance ingredients that may cause biochemical reactions and physiological effects to the skin. This category is not yet recognized by the FDA.
Cosmeceuticals
68
Ingredients can be derived from plants, vitamins, or animals. They are also synthesized from chemicals in a lab. The terms natural and organic are often used in referring to skin products ingredients, but these terms have no specific regulated definition. The FDA regulates USA food labels and certifications, but skin care product labels are not yet regulated for these terms.
Product Components
*Research or testing of products varies, and product chemistry is complicated, so it may be difficult to predict how a certain product will work for an individual.
69
Describes ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions.
Hypoallergenic
70
Describes ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones.
Noncomedogenic
71
Makes up a large part of the skin. It is also the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient-it is both a vehicle and a performance ingredient. As a vehicle (function) ingredient, it helps keep other cosmetics ingredients in solution and helps spread products across the skin. As a performances ingredient, it replenishes moisture in the surface of the skin. Almost all skin care products are a mixture of oil and water, or emulsions.
Water
72
Products that do not contain water are called _______. These include oil-base serums, petrolatum based products such as lip balm, and silicone serums. Designed for dry skin.
Anhydrous
73
Coat the skin and reduce friction.
Lubricants
74
Dozens of plant oils are used in skin care products. Coconut oil and palm oil are two of the fattiest and heaviest oils. Some lighter and less comedogenic natural oils are safflower, sunflower, canola, and jojoba oil.
Oils from plants
75
Lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats. Although these ingredients are acids, they are not irritating. They are more like oils. Common examples are oleic acid, stearic acid, and caprylic acid.
Fatty Acids
76
Produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in -ate, such as octyl palmitate. They often feel better than natural oils and lubricate more evenly Frequently used _____ ______ are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and glyceryl stearate.
Fatty Esters
77
A group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin. They also act as vehicles (for spreading) in some products, including makeup foundations. They are excellent protectants, helping to keep moisture trapped in the skin yet allowing oxygen in and out of the follicles. Dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and phenyl trimethicone. Frequently used in sunscreens, foundations, and moisturizers.
Silicones
78
The main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products. They reduce the surface tension of the dirt and oil on the skin's surface and form an emulsion to lift them from the skin. Agents that cause the cleansers to foam. Common examples are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (derived from coconut oil), and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Lauryl is bad, adn laureth is good.
Detergents
79
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion. Without this oil and water would separate into layers.
Emulsifiers
80
Prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product. Without these, products could easily be contaminated with bacteria, fungi, molds, or other microorganisms that could cause disease in the person using the product. Example is a chelating agent.
Preservatives
81
A chemical that is added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative. Work by breaking down the cell walls of bacteria and other microorganisms. Common ______ ingredients are disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, and tetrasodium EDTA. EDTA is an acronym for the chemical name ethylene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid. These ingredients are usually on the bottom of the ingredient list because they are used in small quantities. Parabens, quaternium 15, and urea are all _______ ________and some of these remain controversial due to their irritancy or other health concerns. There are debates on whether parabens accumulate in the body and disrupt hormones.
Chelating/Chelating Agent
82
In skin care products, they add color, which mainly enhances a product's visual appeal. In color cosmetics they are responsible for most of the product's cosmetic effects.
Color Agents
83
Vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color.
Colorants
84
Synthetic, inorganic, and are known as metal salts. These are colorants that have been batched certified and approved by the FDA.
Certified Colors
85
Organic (carbon-based) compounds from animal or plants extracts and can also be natural mineral pigments. Non-certified colors are less irritating than certified colors, making them more useful for cosmetics applied to the eye area, for example. They are listed on ingredient labels as "D&C," which stands for drug & cosmetic or "FD&C," which stands for food, drug, & cosmetic.
Non-certified Colors
86
Are insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material and are commonly used in colorful cosmetics. These colorants can be blended to produce many different colors for skin care products and makeup.
Lakes
87
Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products. Buffering ingredients stabilize products and prevent changes in pH. Sodium hydroxide and citric acid are often used as __ _______. These are functional ingredients.
pH Adjustors
88
These are substances , such as water or alcohol, that dissolve other ingredients. These are functional ingredients.
Solvents
89
Ingredients derived from plants. Performance ingredients used in phytotherapy are derived from plants and have many functions.
Botanicals
90
These are substances such as chamomile, licorice, azulene, and aloe that heal the skin. These are performance ingredients.
Healing Agents
91
Used to improve hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin. They can also reduce sensitivity by making the skin more resistant to irritants and dehydration. Common _____ ingredients are sphingolipids, phospholipids, and glycosphingolipids. These ceramides (a family of _____ molecules), also found naturally in the intercellular matrix, ae all known to improve the barrier function of the skin.
Lipids
92
The removal of dead corneum cells on the epidermis, improves the skin's appearance.
Exfoliation
93
Mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin. Added to products to physically scrape dead cells from the skins surface. Ingredients include polyethylene and jojoba beads, ground nuts such as almonds, and various seeds.
Exfoliants
94
These ingredients are designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis.
Enzymes
95
Ingredients that are used in the bleaching and or lightening of the skin, actually "lifting" a darker pigmented area to a lighter color. Commonly used in ingredients are hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, *licorice root, bearberry, green tea extract, and alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids. Slow down the pigment factories in the skin, known as melanocytes, thus blocking the production of melanin. When using these products, it is important for clients to wear sunscreen to protect the skin and to prevent the pigmented areas from returning. Hydroquinone is another controversial ingredient due to health concerns.
Lighteners and Brighteners
96
Enzyme that converts tyrosine, an amino acid, into melanin.
Tyrosinase
97
Chemical system that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis. Vehicles, liposomes, and polymers are three types of _______ _______.
Delivery Systems
98
Spreading agents and carrying bases necessary to the formulation of a cosmetic. Water and emollients are both _______. _______ carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective.
Vehicles
99
Closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific areas of the skin, and control their release.
Liposomes
100
Chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules.
Polymers
101
Stimulates cell division and is used for healing wounds or burns. Skin contains its own natural ___.
Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)
102
Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skin's appearance. Less irritating than some of the other ingredients for aging skin, and they are often used along with other ingredients such as hydrators and antioxidants.
Peptides
103
Called glycopolypeptides, another yeast derivative, have been found to enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, which boosts oxygen uptake in the cell. This revitalizing capacity strengthens the skin's natural ability to protect itself against damaging environmental influences.
Glycoproteins
104
A natural form of vitamin A, stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells.
Retinol
105
A form of vitamin A approved as an active drug ingredient. It is of the keratolytic group, meaning that it causes sloughing, or exfoliating, of skin cells. Used for skin problems such as acne, sun-damaged skin, and wrinkles.
Retinoic Acid (Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac)
106
Aggressive, unstable, oxygen-containing molecules. They have lost an electron and need to steal other electrons from other molecules, thereby damaging the cells they steal from. Damage cell membranes and normal cellular metabolism systems. They can also damage DNA and RNA, and they contribute to the hardening of collagen and elastin cells. This all leads to premature aging and increases skin sensitivity, irritation age spots, an dryness.
Free Radicals
107
Organic (carbon based) compounds that chemically absorb ultraviolet radiation.
Chemical Sunscreens
108
Inorganic (without carbon) compounds that physically reflect or scatter ultraviolet radiation.
Physical Sunscreens
109
The ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. Oil free, light lotions that will not clog pores are available for oily skins.
Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
110
Derived directly from plants/nature and can have powerful skin benefits. May cause allergies in people who are sensitive.
Natural Products
111
Can be just as effective and may have certain advantages over ingredients derived naturally from plants. Are effective cell renewal stimulants. May have unhealthy chemical and do not harness the real essence or purity of plants or oils.
Synthetic Ingredients
112
Intended to be natural products that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. Ideally, they are harvested and manufactured in a more natural way. Unfortunately there are no _______ labeling standard for cosmetics in the United States at this time.
Organic Ingredients
113
More sustainable, which generally means they are not as harmful to the environment due to practices such as the ingredient used, the manufacturing processes, or the resources that are conserved.
Products considered "Green"
114
Baking soda; an inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster. (galvanic machine)
Sodium Bicarbonate
115
Linseed Oil, Olive Oil, Cocoa Butter, Oleic Acid, Coal Tar, Isopropyl Isostearate, Squalene, Isopropyl Myristate, Myristyl Myristate, Acetylated Lanolin, Oleyl Alcohol, Octyl Palmitate, Isotearic Acid/Myerth 3 Myristate, Butyl Stearate, Lanolic Acid.
Highly Comedogenic
116
1. Aromatic: lavender, mint, rose, orange, eucalyptus
2. Antiseptic: peppermint, tea tree, clove
3. *Astringent: comfrey root, witch hazel, alum root, lemon
4. Stimulating: eucalyptus, wintergreen, spearmint
5. Calming: comfrey root (allantoin), chamomile (azulene) almond
6. Cleansing: lemongrass, aloe
7. Healing: chamomile, comfrey, aloe
8. Moisturizing: rose, chamomile
Herb and Plant Properties
117
Do not have the therapeutic value that natural oils retain.
Synthetically Produced Oils
118
The use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits. The different parts of the plants used for making products from oils and essences are the roots, bark, stem, seeds, and flowers. The extraction process can be expensive, and the way that essences are extracted determines their strength and quality.
Phytotherapy
119
Scents have a strong effect on our reactions to places, products, and other people. Memories are also brought on by familiar scents. Aromatherapy scents affect us because of the sensitive olfactory system. Fragrances are a large part of our everyday life, from food scents to our perfume. Notice how fragrance influences our moods and how much more relaxed we are when the scent of a favorite candle diffuses across the room. Different blends of scents have different effect, both physically and mentally.
The Olfactory System
120
When working with mature skin, estheticians are expected to inform clients about the causes of their skin change. Knowledge of hormone replacement, diet, and lifestyle influences are useful. Many ingredients are available to support the needs of mature skin. One example of an effective formula to combat premature aging is a combination of...
Alpha Lipoic Acid, Vitamin C Ester, DMAE, and Glycolic Acid
121
*Green Tea, *Squalane Oil (vegi oil from olives) rich in Vit A, D, and E, *Seaweed, *Chamomile, Licorice Root, Mmicronized Vit E, Panthenol B5, Allantoin, Guarana (anit-inflammatory and decongestant), Rose Essential Oil
Ingredients proven to have a positive effect on mature skin and rosacea
122
1. Dissolve makeup and dirt to keep pores clean and prepare the skin for other products.
2. May have emollients that soften and dry skin.
3. May contain ingredients to counteract various skin problems.
4. Additional ingredients can help certain skin conditions such as sensitivity, dehydration, or capillary problems.
Benefits of Cleansers
123
1. Tighten and, tone the skin.
2. Draw impurities out of the pores.
3. Clear up blemishes.
4. Hydrate.
5 .Nourish.
6. Calm and soothe.
7. Rejuvenate the skin.
8. Brighten the complexion.
Benefits of Masks
124
1. Protecting thin, delicate tissue
2. Firming
3. Reducing lines
4. Decreasing puffiness
Benefits of Eye Cream
125
1. Include moisturizing balms and products.
2. Some contain collagen derivatives or other ingredients to plump-up the lips.
3. Exfoliating and healing ingredients are also used in lip conditioners.
Lip Treatments
126
1. Protecting skin from the elements
2. Nourishing skin through ingredients
3. Balancing the oil-water content of skin
4. Treating various skin conditions such as redness, aging, or dryness
Benefits of Moisturizer and Hydrators
127
Lotions are formulated with dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an ingredient that reacts with the proteins (keratin) on the surface cells of the skin and turns them darker. Most have not sunscreen protection; sunscreen should still be applied.
Self-Tanners
