Ch. 13 Fire Flashcards
Fatty Acids that have been exposed hydrogen. They are not drying; they have a wax-like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents. Examples are cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol.
Fatty Alcohols
An emollient and lubricant; a clear, odorless substance derived from the earth especially from petroleum sources. Are time tested, offer excellent protection against dehydration, and help prevent irritant skin contact. They are completely nonreactive and biologically inert, which means that they do not react with other chemicals involved in the skin’s function.
Mineral Oil and Petrolatum
One of the biggest categories of cosmetic ingredients. Reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product, and increase the spreadability of cosmetic products.
Surfactants
What are the main types of surfactants used in skin-cleaning products?
Detergents; sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Lauryl is bad, laureth is good.
Naturally occurring mild acids used as chemical exfoliants.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)
Glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric.
AHA’s (Stronger than BHA’s)
*Citric Acid used to be a BHA, but is not considered a mild AHA
Salicylic Acid
BHA’s
Vitamins, amino acids, and other natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals and help skin cope with the damaging effects of environmental influences.
Antioxidants
*Aging or sun-damaged skin needs antioxidants both topically and orally.
Vitamins A, C, and E.
Antioxidants
Vitamin C, Easter Vitamin C, Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, Coenzyme Q10
Antioxidant Ingredients
Octinaxate (octyl methoxycinnimate), Octisalate (octyl salicylate), Oxybenzone (benzophenone).
Organic Chemical Sunscreens
Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide.
Inorganic Physical Sunscreens
Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration. Ingredients with a concentration of less than 1% may be listed in any order at the bottom. Fragrance must be listed as “fragrance,” but the ingredients need not be listed.
Cosmetic Labels
Dark containers and in cooler temperatures help products to last longer. Up to three years.
Proper storing of products for maximum life length.
Used in creams and masks; rich in vitamin A. Have the primary benefits of being an antioxidant, moisturizing, and soothing.
Carrot
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances. It is anti-inflammatory and an antiseptic; its deodorizing action protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin.
Urea
An anti-irritant good for sensitive skin; also inhibits melanin production. It is soothing, and is used to lighten surface hyper-pigmentation.
Licorice
Cools skin and constricts capillaries; has refreshing properties; contains menthol. Reduces irritation and itching. It’s primary property is cooling. Skin benefits decreases circulation.
Peppermint
An exotic scent used for aromatherapy; good for skin irritations. Primary property of being soothing and antiseptic properties. Has anti-inflammatory skin benefits.
Sandalwood
Used for many beauty products. Is moisturizing and calming.
Olive
Popular herb and oil used for aromatherapy and calming. Primary property is soothing, but is also anti-inflammatory, and has antiseptic properties. Has healing skin benefits.
Lavender
Primary property is soothing. Has moisturizing skin benefits.
Jasmine
Primary benefits are stimulating, and uplifting. Astringent skin benefits.
Orange
Primary property is stimulating. Skin benefits of increased circulation.
Eucalyptus and Rosemary
Plant extract; used for sensitive skin. Primary benefits are calming, and anti-inflammatory.
Chamomile
Hydrating, toning, and tightening effects; used in masks and scrubs.
Honey
Decyl Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Myristly Lactate, Coconut Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Sesame Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Most D & C Red Pigments, Octyldodecanol, *Peanut Oil, Lauric Acid, Mink Oil.
Moderately Comedogenic Ingredients
Corn Oil, Safflower Oil, Laury Alcohol, *Lanolin Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, *Lanolin, Sunflower Oil, Avocado Oil, Mineral Oil.
Mildly Comedogenic
*Note: Mildly comedogenic ingredients are generally not a problem when used in diluted concentrations.
*Petrolatum, Glycerin, Squalane, Sorbitol, SodiumPCA, Zinc Stearate, Octyldodecyl Stearate, SD Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Water, Iron Oxides, Dimenthicone, Cyclomethicone, Polysorbates, Cetyl Palmitate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Jojoba Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Octylmethoxycinnimate, Oxybenzone, Butylene Glycol, Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone.
Noncomedogenic
Green Tea, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (licorice root), Squalane oil (vegetable oil from green olives)- rich in vitamins A, D, and E, Seaweed. Chamomile, Micronized Vitamin E, Panthenol-VITAMIN B5, Allantoin, Guarana (an anti-inflammatory and decongestant), Rose Essential Oil.
Ingredients that are beneficial for mature skin and rosacea.
Used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the _______. The heat increases blood circulation and is beneficial for dry mature skin or skin that is dull and lifeless. It has a plumping and softening effect on the skin.
Paraffin/Paraffin Wax Masks
Detergent-type “foaming” cleanser with a neutral or slightly acid pH. Designed to dissolve more oil. “Squeaky Clean” feeling, sometime tight or dry feeling. Good for oily or combination skin. For acne-prone skin, an antimicrobial agent may be added to kill bacteria.
Cleansing Gel
Water-based emulsion for normal and combination skin. For dry, skin, “milky: lotion cleansers containing more oils or emollients that soften the skin are recommended. Do not strip the skin’s natural oil or pH balance.
Cleansing Lotion
Water-in-oil emulsion used primarily to dissolve makeup and dirt. It is suitable for very dry and mature skin. Heavier than cleansing lotion. Actors and other performers use these products to remove heavy stage makeup. Like dissolves like, so oil dissolves oil. Remove with sponge or soft cloth to prevent residue. Toners can help remove the residue.
Cleansing Cream
Use twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin.
Moisturizers
Used one to two time per week and are rinsed off with water. Remove dead epidermal cells. Makes skin texture smoother. Deep pore cleansing and makes extractions easier.
Exfoliants
Is an ancient healing practice using essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body, mind, and spirit.
Aromatherapy
Fatty materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin. They can act as either vehicles (functional) or performance ingredients. As vehicles or performance vehicles, they help place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin. As performance ingredients, emollients lubricate the skin’s surface and guard the barrier function. Lie on top of the skin and prevent dehydration by trapping water and decreasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Emollients
*Silicones and oils are both emollients
If skin becomes excessively red or the client complains of burning, immediately remove product and rinse the skin with cold water. Having a cortisone cream available and products to calm skin reactions is a recommended precaution.
Allergic Reactions
The sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses.
The Olfactory System
Masks, such as cucumber and aloe, designed to stay moist and are more hydrating. Usually applied once a week, after exfoliation for best results and penetration. Also referred to as cream masks or gel masks, not formulated to dry. These nourish or treat the skin rather than give it a deep cleaning. Beneficial for sensitive, couperose, aging, or dry skin because ingredients such as collagen, aloe, and seaweed have excellent hydrating properties.
Nonsetting Masks
Cream masks are used for dry skin. Gel masks are used for sensitive or dehydrated skin. Collagen masks are plumping, calming, and diminishing wrinkles.
Forms of Nonsetting Masks
Draw impurities to the surface of the skin as the mask dries and tightens. Contain clay, kaolin, bentonite, or silica for their tightening and sebum-absorbing effects. Stronger masks are used on oily and combination skin. Masks with sulfur have healing and antiseptic properties that have a beneficial effect on acne. Applied with a mask brush or fingers and allowed to set for 10 minutes.
Clay Masks
Alginate masks are often seaweed based. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or sometimes serums. After mixing they are quickly applied to the face and then dry to form a rubberized texture. A treatment cream or serum is generally applied under them. Forms a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption of the serum or cream underneath. These professional masks are generally used only in the salon and are not retailed for home use.
Algae and Seaweed Masks
Also known as thermal masks, contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. Used with nourishing products underneath. Mixed with water immediately before application and applied about 1/4th-inch thick, the modelage mask sets up and hardens. The chemical reaction that occurs when the plaster and the crystal mix with the water produces a gradually increasing temperature thats reaches approximately 105 degrees. Left on the skin, the mask gradually cools. Setting time is approximately 20 minutes. Increases circulation and is very beneficial for dry, mature skin or dull-looking skin.
Modelage Masks
Used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the mask. The heat increases blood circulation and is beneficial for dry, mature skin or skin that is dull and lifeless. It has a plumping and softening effect on the skin. Applied on top of a treatment cream to allows for deeper penetration of the creams ingredients into the skin.
Paraffin Wax Masks
Derived from fresh fruits, vegetables, milk, yogurt, or eggs have been used traditionally for many years. Ingredients such as honey an almond meal or oatmeal can be mixed with milk into a paste for use as mask. These masks are beneficial unless the person is allergic to a particular substance.
Custom-designed Masks
- Protecting skin from the elements.
- Nourishing skin through ingredients.
- Balancing the oil-water content of skin.
- Treating various skin conditions such as redness, aging, or dryness.
Benefits of Moisturizers and Hydrators
Formulated to add moisture to the skin. Lotions, hydrators, and creams. Used twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin. Applied at the end of a facial and are intended for daily use as a day cream or makeup base. Available for various skin types and conditions, from acne-prone skin to dry and mature skin.
Moisturizers
Also referred to as nourishing creams, are designed to moisturize and condition the skin-especially during sleep, when normal tissue repair is taking place. Are often heavier in consistency and texture than moisturizers are and they contain more emollient and active ingredients. Specialty treatment products for oily skin usually have very little or no emollient.
Treatment Creams
These are designed to provide slip (gliding ability) for massage while also nourishing and treating skin conditions.
Massage Creams
*Lotions and oils. Massage lotions are also blended with aromatherapy oils.