Ch. 18 Fire Flashcards
Scientific study of hair and its diseases and care. Note: not all hair follicles contain hair.
Trichology
*Trichos is the Greek word for “hair.”
Very fine, unpigmented downy soft hair, is referred to as lanugo hair, or ______ ____. Not recommended to tweeze, shave, or wax these fine hairs. Grows on women’s cheeks… called peach fuzz.
Vellus Hair
Longer, courser hair found on the head, brows, lashes, genitals, arms, and legs. Recommended to wax.
Terminal Hair
The hair on a fetus is extremely soft and downy
Lanugo Hair
A mass of epidermal cells forming a small tube, or canal; the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root. *Extends deep into the dermis.
Hair Follicle
Hair is made from a protein which is produced from the hair follicle
Keratin
It is interesting to note that as our bodies grow the follicle density we are born with does not change, but as we age it decreases because there is more surface area to cover once we grow larger and become adults.
The Hair Follicle
Anchors hair to the skin cells and is part of the hair located at the bottom of the follicle below the surface of the skin; part of the hair that lies within the follicle at its base, where the hair grows.
The Root
Is defined as the part of the hair located above the surface of the skin. (Consisting of the outer layer (cuticle), inner layer (medulla), and middle layer (cortex). Color changes happen in the cortex.)
The Shaft
The outermost layer of the hair shaft
The Cuticle
The middle of the hair shaft
The Cortex
The center or innermost layer of the hair shaft
The Medulla
The two outer layers of the shaft are hard keratin and the inner layer is soft keratin
The hair shaft
The three layers of the hair shaft
Cuticle, Cortex, and Medulla
Contains the hair follicle and its appendages: the hair root, bulb, dermal papilla, sebaceous appendage, and arrector pilii muscle.
The Pilosebaceous Unit
The main structures in the hair follicle
Root, Bulb, and Papilla
Swelling at the base of the follicle that provides the hair with nourishment; it is a thick, club-shaped structure that forms the lower part of the hair root and is made from epithelial cells that surround the papilla.
The Hair Bulb
Cone-shaped elevation at the base of the follicle, fits into the bulb. The _________ are filled with tissue that contains the blood vessels and cells necessary for hair growth and follicle nourishment.
The Hair Papilla (plural: papillae)
Attaches to the base of the hair follicle.
The Arrector Pili Muscle
Moderate amounts of ________ ___ are necessary for healthy skin and hair.
Sebaceous Oil
The four phases of the hair growth cycle
Anagen Phase, Catagen Phase, Telogen Phase, Latent Phase (ACT)
The growth stage during which new hair is produced. New keratinized cells are manufactured in the hair follicle during this phase.
Anagen Phase
The second transition stage of hair growth. In this stage, mitosis ceases. The hair grows upward and detaches itself from the dermal papilla. The mature hair is now referred to as a club hair (the base looks like a club). This is the shortest part of the growth cycle.
Catagen Phase
The final, or resting, stage of hair growth. Ready to shed.
Telogen Phase
After the telogen stage, the follicle is empty and and dormant. The old hair sheds and the cycle then begins again. The follicle can be void of hair in the telogen stage until it cycles back into the anagen stage. If the hair does not fall out and the anagen stages begins again, the two hairs can occupy the same follicle.
It takes 4 to 16 weeks for the hair to grow from the papilla to the surface of the skin, depending in part on the area of the body.
Hairs removed in the anagen stage, while the hair bulb is more “active,” will be more effective for long-term hair reduction.
Latent Phase
Generally have dark hair, with average thickness. With thicker hair, the root is quite deep in the follicle, and thus very difficult to remove.
Western Europe (France, Spain, and Portugal)
Thinner facial hair, but the roots ten to be deep.
Native American and many Asians
When is hair easier to remove
Before it turns gray
Is a good barometer of an individual’s stat of health.
Hair and Skin
Excessive hair growth on the face, arms, and legs, especially in women.
Hirsutism
Excessive growth of hair. It is characterized by the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that normally grows only vellus hair. (full body, very extreme)
Hypertrichosis
The process of removing hair by means of electricity, is considered the only true method of permanent hair removal (verses hair reduction with lasers).
Electrolysis
This method uses *direct current, which causes chemical decomposition of the hair follicle. This method decomposes (destroys) the the papilla, the source of nourishment for the hair. The client holds the electrode connected to the positive side of the power source.
Galvanic Electrolysis
This method of electrolysis utilizes a high-frequency current to produce heat, which coagulates and destroys the hair follicle. Also known as electrocoagulation, destroys the hair by coagulating the papilla through heat. An *alternating current (AC) passes through a needle causing vibration in the water molecules surrounding the hair follicle. The action produces heat, which destroys the papilla.
Thermolysis
This method *combines both systems, sending a current through a fine needle or probe. This method combines the benefits of the galvanic and thermolysis methods by passing AC and DC current thought the needle at the same time. Quicker than galvanic method alone.
Blend
These forms of hair removal are normally performed in a medical setting.
Laser and Photo Light
Uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair bulb. Includes both laser hair removal and intense pulse light (IPL) to reduce hair growth.
Photoepilation
A _____ ____ is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair follicles. It is most effective when used on follicles in the growth, or anagen, phase.
Laser Beam/Laser Hair Removal
“Permanent” laser hair removal is referred to as
Semipermanent
______, ____ hair responds better to laser treatments than _____ hair because the laser is designed to target the pigment in the hair.
Coarse, Dark/Light
Different from a tradition laser, the first-generation lasers were a solid beam of light. ______ _____ _____(or photo light) produces a quick “flash” of light. These short, powerful pulses shatter their target without allowing heat to build up and burn the surrounding skin. IPL is used for hair reduction, as well as for vascular and pigmented lesions and skin treatments.
Intense Pulsed Light
The IPL use for skin tightening is referred to as
Photorejuvenation, or Photo Facial
IPL
Not as affective and more painful
A process of temporarily removing hair at or near the level of the skin. Both shaving and chemical depilation are included in the is category.
Depilaiton
Another temporary method of hair removal that removes hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla (tweezing, wax, sugaring).
Epilation
The most common form of epilation
Waxing
The most common form of depilation
Shaving
Temporary method of hair removal that can also irritate the skin. Ingrown hairs are an additional problem with this.
Shaving
Term used for infected follicles or ingrown hairs from shaving or other hair removal methods such as waxing.
Folliculitis (barbae folliculitis)
Refers to razor bumps or ingrown hairs without pus or infection
Pseudofolliculitis
The method of using tweezers to pull hair out by the rood one at a time
Tweezing
Another tweezing method used in the past was the ________ ______ tweezers. This method transmits radio-frequency energy down the hair shaft into the follicle area.
Electronically Charged/Electronic Tweezers
An ancient method of hair removal, which is still common practice in many Middle Eastern cultures today. Also, known as banding, works by using cotton thread that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it out of the follicle. Mainly used for the facial area.
Threading
There are two main types of threading techniques
- Hand and mouth threading, using both hands and the mouth to hold the thread
- Two-handed threading, using just the hands
- and a third uses the neck instead of the mouth to hold and maneuver the piece of thread
- the thread is discarded after use, so it is more sanitary than waxing
Another ancient method of hair removal, dating back to the Egyptians. It is an alternative for those who have sensitive skin or who react to waxes with bumps and redness.
Sugaring
The original basic sugaring recipe
Mixture of sugar, lemon juice, and water. It is heated to form a syrup, which is then molded into a ball and pressed onto the skin and quickly stripped away.
- Now manufactured in large quantities and sold in small containers ready to be placed in a heater
- Can be used over and over on the same client until the hair left in the product interferes with the process
- Hand method and spatula method
Sugar Mixtures
The primary hair removal method used by estheticians
Waxing
Available in blocks, disks, pellets, or beads. They are considered a no-strip wax. They are gentle enough for the face area, yet strong enough to be used on hard-to-remove, coarse hairs. Some like to use it on the bikini and underarms area, eyebrows.
Hard Wax
One of the most common methods of hair removal. Have a lower melting point and come in tins or plastic containers. The main detractor is that it can be irritating to the skin because the ingredients, such as rosins, can adhere to the skin. Generally used on larger areas, such as the back and legs.
Soft Wax or Strip Waxing
Waxing Tools
- Tweezers: slanted-tipped best for general tweezing; pointed tip is ideal for ingrown hairs. Stainless steel so they won’t corrode.
- Applicators: a stainless steel or hard plastic 5-inch spatula is ideal for spreading a thin coat on large areas such as legs.
- Wax strips/sizes
a. leg: 3”wide X 8”length (cut one-half to three-quarters of the leg strip for the knees).
b. Brow/lip: 1/2” to 3/4”wide to 1”wide X 3”length
c. Face (chin): 11/2”wide X 3”length
d. Bikini/underarm: 11/2” to 2” wide X 5” to 6”length. As an option, you can use part of a small leg strip for larger areas. - Linens/Roll Paper
- Pre-and Post-Epilation Products (antiseptic and calming ingredients such as witch hazel, arnica, chamomile, or calendula, power and pre-wax products)
- Do not double-dip the spatula unless you are disposing of the entire pot of wax after treating that individual client.
- Always wear gloves. Use gloves other than latex. Latex tends to get sticky and breaks down easily. Change your gloves if they become excessively sticky during a waxing service.
- Spot bleeding may occur and fluids ay rise to the surface of the skin. This is normal, this is the blood that has been nourishing the dermal papilla.
Infection Control
The main reason for the client consultation is to determine if the client has any contraindications for hair removal. It is also helpful to know if they have been waxed before and if they had any problems or reactions form past waxing experiences.
Contraindications for Hair Removal
- Before any hair removal service, a consultation is always necessary
- It is imperative that every client fills out a release form for the hair removal service you are going to provide
- Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmantation from injury to the skin is common from waxing for darker skin types
Client Consultations
- The hair should be at least 1/4” to 1/2” long for waxing to be the most effective. Trim before waxing if it is longer than 3/4”
- Give clients post-wax precautions: avoid sun exposure, exfoliation, creams with fragrance or other ingredients that may be irritating, and excessive heat (hot tubs, saunas) for at least 24-48 hours after waxing.
Waxing Safety Precautions
- Provide the client with a gown, single-use panties, or other items, depending on the service provided
- Brows/face. The client’s eyes should be closed. Completely remove any traces of makeup with a gentle cleaner. Follow with a preparation solution to remove any residue on the area. Allow the area to dry for a few moments. (some states require eye-pads)
- All areas. Clean the skin thoroughly with a pre-epilation solution such as witch hazel on a cotton pad. Powder is applied if a moist area needs to be dried (especially underarms). Powder can also protect the skin and make hairs ore visible. DO NOT use talcum powder. Many talcs contain fragrances and other particles that can cause an allergic reaction.
- Excess body hair. Trim any thicker or longer hair areas with scissors before applying wax. Trim hair no shorter than 1/2”.
Client Preparation
- Hold spatulas or applicators at a 45 degree angle or less while applying the wax
- Hold the skin taut next to where the wax is first applied for a smoother application
- The most important points in all wax removal techniques are to hold the skin taut (stretched tightly) next to where starting the pull and to remove it quickly while pulling parallel to the skin
Application and Removal Techniques
Dip the end of the spatula into the warm wax. Following the direction of the hair growth, apply a very thing coat along the area to be waxed. Be very careful not to drip wax on areas that are not being waxed.
Soft Wax Application
When pulling, keep the strip parallel to the skin without lifting to avoid skin damage.
Soft Wax Removal
- Dip spatula into wax and apply it first in the opposite direction of hair growth, then in the same direction of the hair growth in a smooth or figure eight pattern over the area to be waxed. Apply to the thickness of a nickel.
2 Try to end the wax where there is no hair when flicking up the end to make a tap (to grasp on for the pull). - Pull off the wax in the appropriate direction according to the instructions. Immediately put your other hand over the area to soothe nerve endings.
Hard Wax Application and Removal
- After waxing, *visually check the waxed area with the magnifying light. All hair should have been removed in the pull.
- Remove any residual hair with tweezers. If there are ingrown hairs, pointed tweezers can be used to loosen them or remove them.
Tweezing
- Remove residual wax with a wax remover made for the skin.
2. Apply an after-wax soothing product (such as azulene or aloe) as directed.
Post-Wax Product Applicaiton
Follow all cleaning and decontamination procedures. Give the client post-wax instructions and precautions.
Post-Wax Clean Up
- Men’s eyebrows: Most men want the brows left natural with just cleaning-up underneath and between the brows. Do not make an even line or tweeze to define unless the client requests it.
- Sculpting: Brows are arched according to the standard diagram.
- Corrections: If brows are uneven or too think leave the stray hairs to grow back in to match the shape the client wants. Recommend letting the hair grow back to achieve the desire shape. If hairs are removed, they may not always grow back. Hair density gets thinner with time so in 10 to 20 years, there may be less hair in areas. Over-thinning now can affect the brow shape for years to come.
- Check the balance, length, width, and arch for the correct brow shape.
- Use a pencil liner to help mark the boundary lines or points of where to remove (or not remove) the hair.
Brow Waxing Tips
Bikini waxing can be categorized in three ways
American (or standard) bikini wax, French bikini wax, and Brazilian wax
The removal of hair outside the normal bikini line
Standard American Bikini Waxing
Leaves only a small patch of hair on the front pubis area, everything else is removed
French Bikini
All of tehhair on teh genital area is removed, both front and back
Brazilian
Men may grow wiry hair on the edges of their ears and on the inside of the nose. This growth tends to increase with age. It is not advisable to wax these sensitive areas, but trimming the external hair is helpful. Since men’s body hair is thicker and denser, more wax strips are needed to perform men’s waxing services.
Waxing for the Male Client
- Face waxing takes from 15-30 minutes. A brow and a lip wax normally takes 30 minutes.
- Body waxing procedures take from 30-60 minutes. A basic bikini or lower leg wax takes 30 minutes each; a full leg wax can take an hour. Add time for each additional area.
- Preparation and clean-up time is usually scheduled for 15 minutes before and 15 minutes after the service. Proper decontamination takes time. (turn around time)
Scheduling Services
It is normal for hives and redness to appear after waxing such a large area of thick, coarse hair.
Men’s Waxing
- Recent chemical exfoliation using glycolic, salicylic, or other acid-based products
- Recent microdermabrasion or injectables (Botox, or other dermal fillers)
- Recent cosmetic or reconstructive surgery, laser, or IPL treatments
- Recent use of exfoliating topical medication including Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, Differin, Azelex, other peeling agents, or vitamin A topical products on the area
- Recent use of hydroquinone for skin lightening
- Recent use of topical or oral cortisone medication
- Recent use of acne medications (do not wax within 1 year)
- Recent use of blood-thinning medications (Coumadin, warfarin)
- Chemo or Radiation
- Aids, Lupus
- Epilepsy, diabetes, hemophiliacs (face and body waxing)
- Tetracycline may have an adverse reaction to wax
Contraindications for Waxing Procedures
Especially for brow waxing: only apply the strip where hair removal is desired. If soft wax is accidentally placed where the hair should not be removed, then do not put the strip over it. You can later remove the was with a wax remover or oil for the skin. Always make sure you can see the brow area outside of the wax and strip to avoid removing too much hair. Use smaller strips and place then carefully to avoid covering the entire brow with the strip so you have a clear view.
Brow Waxing Tip
The length of time it takes to melt the wax depends on the product, temperature, and how full the wax holder is: approximately __ minutes if it is full; __ minutes if it is a quarter to half full.
30min/15min
Immediately apply pressure with your finger to the waxed area. Hold there for approximately _ seconds to relieve the painful sensation.
5 seconds
Cell mitosis happens here
Anagen Phase/Matrix
This type of hair removal is best for removing hair from the edges of male clients’ ears.
Waxing is not advised for these sensitive areas, but trimming the external hair is helpful.
If skin is moist or oily, cleanse the area to be waxed with a mild astringent cleanser and dry. If skin is dry and flaky, a tiny amount of lotion may be applied and then removed. Apply a light dustin of powder if necessary.
Wax application
