3.1.3.2 Coastal Landscapes in the UK Flashcards
How are waves formed?
- waves are formed by the wind blowing over the sea
- friction with the surface of the water and the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the surface to the sea causes ripples to form and these develop into waves
- waves can also be formed when earthquakes or volcanic eruptions shake the seabed - these waves called a tsunami
Example of a tsunami:
- in March 2011 a wall of water up to 40m high crashed into the Japanese coast north of Tokyo destroying several coastal settlements and killing over 20,000 people
Fetch:
- the distance the wind blows across the water
- the longer the fetch the more powerful the wave
Swash:
part of wave that crashes onto the shore when a wave breaks
Backwash:
part of wave sweeping back into the sea under the force of gravity after a wave break
Wave frequency:
number of waves that pass a certain point per second
Wave crest:
top of the wave
Wave trough:
bottom of the wave
Wave length:
distance between 2 successive crests on 2 waves
What affects the size of a wave?
- wind duration - how consistently and the length of time the wind blows for
- distance of sea over which the wind has blown
- strength of the wind - greater the wind the greater the frictional drag and therefore the greater the size of the wave
- wind speed
- fetch - distance the wave travels across the water
Sea waves:
waves that travel short distances and are the result of local waves
Swell:
waves that formed from distant storms and travel large distance
Which part of England has waves with an incredibly long fetch and why?
- the South West of Britain is affected by waves that have an incredibly long fetch, as the South Westerly wind (prevailing winds) which blow the sea there travel uninterrupted for thousands of miles across the Atlantic Ocean
- due to this waves are large in Cornwall and generally great for surfing
What is the fetch from Brazil to SW England?
9,000km
What would be the ideal conditions for erosion in England
- onshore SW winds with frequent gusts 160+ km/hr
- long fetch over Atlantic Ocean = storm conditions e.g. Cornwall 4-5 January 1998
Constructive waves:
able to build the beach as swash is stronger than backwash
Characteristics of constructive waves:
- low waves (but have long wavelength - up to 100m) that surge up the beach and ‘spill’ with a strong swash
- carry and deposit large amounts of sand and pebbles and ‘construct’ the beach making it more extensive due to strong swash - beach material moved upwards
- surfers prefer constructive waves because they give longer rides
- strong swash however it rapidly loses E as water percolates through beach material leaving a weaker backwash so no material is removed
- these waves are formed by storms often 100km’s away
- wave crests fare apart
- gently sloping wave front
- low frequency approx. 6-8 waves/min
- breaking wave spills forward
- associated with gentler beach profiles
Destructive waves:
destroy the beach as backwash stronger than swash so material taken back out to sea with the wave
Characteristics of destructive waves:
- formed by local storms close to coast and can ;destroy’ the beach
- waves closely spaced and often interfere with each other producing chaotic swirling mass of water
- high wave height and steep wave front (bit shorter wavelength) - become high and steep before plunging down onto beach
- little forward motion (swash) when destructive wave breaks but powerful backwash - explains removal of sand and pebbles and gradual destruction of beach
- on steep beach
- high frequency approx. 10-14 waves/min
What causes water tor rise up and break on the beach?
- water becoming shallower (friction with the sea bed) causes waves to rise upwards and break
Why when waves break on a sandy/pebbly beach the amount of backwash is often less than the amount of swash?
water soaks into a sandy/pebbly beach, so there is less backwash than swash
Why are larger pebbles found at the top of the beach with smaller pebbles found at the bottom?
- swash carries a mixture of pebble sizes up the beach and only has the energy to pull back the smaller pebbles
- over time, the sorting process results in larger pebbles being left at the top of a beach with smaller pebbles deposited at the bottom of the beach
Where did the Jurassic coast landslip take place and what happened?
- process of mass movement occurred near Seatown in West Dorset on the Jurassic coast in 2021
- such events occur frequently along this stretch of the coast where the cliffs are loose and unstable
- processes like this combine with the action of waves to shape the coastline
What happened as a result of the Jurassic Coast landslip?
the South West Coast Path was diverted away from the cliff edge to keep walkers safe
Sub-aerial:
situated, formed or occurring on or immediately adjacent to the surface of the Earth
What causes cliffs to collapse?
- cliffs collapse because of different types of weathering
- which is the weakening or decay or rocks in their original place on, or close to, the ground surface
- it is mostly caused by weather factors e.g. rainfall and changes in temperature
4 groups of processes that happen at the coast:
- weathering
- erosion
- transportation
- deposition
Weathering:
the decay/disintegration of rocks in their original place on, or close to, the ground surface (in situ)
Erosion:
coastal erosion is the removal of material and shaping (sculpting) of landforms (involves movement)
Transportation:
movement of material by the Sea
Deposition:
material that is dropped at the coast, usually due to loss of energy
3 main groups of weathering:
- mechanical
- chemical
- biological
Mechanical weathering:
- the disintegration (breaking-up) of rocks
- where this happens, piles of rock fragments called scree can be found at the foot of cliffs
Freeze-thaw weathering:
- Water collects in cracks or holes (pores) in the rock
- As temperature drops at night, this water freezes and expands
- This puts pressure on the rock at the side of the crack - makes crack in the rock bigger
- When the temperature rises and the ice thaws, water will seep deeper into the rock
- This process repeats many times
- Eventually pieces of rock break off
Salt weathering:
- sea water contains salt
- when the water evaporates it leaves behind it salt crystals
- in cracks and holes these salt crystals grow and expand
- this puts pressure on the rocks and flakes may eventually break off
Chemical weathering:
- caused by chemical change
- rainwater which is slightly acidic, very slowly dissolves certain types of rocks and minerals
Carbonation:
- rainwater absorbs CO2 from the air and becomes slightly acidic
- contact with alkaline rocks e.g. chalk and limestone produces a chemical reaction causing the rocks to slowly dissolve
Biological weathering:
- due to the actions of flora and fauna
- plant roots grow in cracks in rocks
- animals e.g. rabbits burrow into weak rocks such as sands
Mass movement:
- the downward movement or sliding of material under the influence of gravity
- once weakened by weathering mass movement can then deliver loose material to beaches and the sea to be eroded
- some mass movement processes occur slowly, such as soil creep, but some are very rapid such as rock falls
Examples of mass movement:
- Holbeck Hall, North Yorkshire
- 1993, near Scarborough
- 60m of cliff slipped onto beach
Processes of mass movement:
- rockfalls
- slumping (rotational slip)
- mud slides/mud flows
- land slides
Rockfalls:
Rockfalls are rapid though relatively rare movements and are found where slopes exceed 40°
What causes rockfalls?
- rockfalls may result from extremes of mechanical or chemical weathering and they produce debris slopes beneath the cliff as the material from the rockfall disintegrates at the cliff top
- freeze-thaw weathering shatter rocks from cliff and material will gather at the base - talus/scree slope
- It is exacerbated by the agents of marine erosion, which may increase the instability of slopes by undermining them
Slumping:
occurs where the movement appears to have a rotational element to it and may produce a curved rupture surface
What sorts of cliffs are susceptible to slumping?
- Cliffs formed on relatively weak and/ or impermeable rocks such as clays are susceptible to rotational slumping after prolonged rainfall as the raising of the water table underground reduces the internal friction of particles and facilitates failure
- Although slumped masses may have some internal cohesion, the highly saturated toe or frontal lobe of the slump may flow as it approaches the foot of the slope or cliff
Mud slides/mud flows:
usually wet, rapid and tend to occur where slopes are steep (over 10 degrees)
Example of area prone to mudflows/mud slides:
Monmouth Beach at Lyme Regis, Dorset is prone to mudflows
Where do mud flows/mud slides usually happen?
- They usually occur when vegetation cover is sparse and so cannot hold the soil in place
- They happen after a period of heavy rain
- At the base of the mudflow, the saturated soils spread out to make a lobe
(Land) Sliding:
- Cliffs formed on harder rocks, built up in layers e.g. chalk
- They are susceptible to sliding after prolonged rainfall as the raising of the water table underground reduces the internal friction of layers and facilitates failure
- The top layer becomes too saturated
- It slides over the layer beneath - rapidly moving downhill
- Slides largely retain their internal structure and move as a large mass
Main erosion processes:
- hydraulic action
- abrasion
- attrition
- solution/corrosion
Hydraulic action:
- the power of waves as they smash into a cliff which blasts and traps air into cracks, eventually causing it to break apart
- the explosive force of trapped air operating in a crack is called cavitation
- especially powerful during stormy seas
- the force of the water crumbles and removes material from cliffs
Abrasion:
- the ‘wearing away’ of cliffs or rocky platforms by rocks carried by the sea
- it refers to the ‘sandpapering’ effect as sand and pebbles are dragged over a rocky platform
- corrasion involves fragments of rock that are hurled at a cliff by the sea breaking pieces off
Attrition:
- rock fragments carried by the sea collide against one another causing to become smaller and more rounded
- material gradually becomes smaller
- not responsible for eroding platforms
Solution/Corrosion (erosion):
- when sea water dissolves certain types of rocks and minerals
- water may be slightly acidic
- in the UK, chalk and limestone cliffs are prone to this type of erosion
What determines how much erosion takes place at the coastline?
- fetch
- beach/shape of coastline
- bedding planes
- geology
Landform:
- feature of landscape that has been formed sculpted by geomorphic processes of:
- erosion
- transportation
- deposition
Factors that influence the formation of landforms:
- Rock type (lithology) - resistance of rocks (e.g. hard/tough or soft)
- Geological structure
- Enormous tectonic pressures