1.4 The Use of Finishes Flashcards
What do fabric finishes do?
Modify a fabric to improve it or give it properties it doesn’t bit naturally possess
What is the most usual stage to add a finish?
To apply it directly to the fabric before a product is manufactured
What are the advantages of finishes?
- Improve the function, performance and aesthetics of a product
- Extend a products lifespan
- Improve easy care performance
What are disadvantages of finishes?
- Cost money because they are an additional process
- Some are only semi permanent
- Some need several finishes to make them suitable
What do mechanical finishes do?
Modify a fabrics surface using dry processes, they are applied using machinery
What are the 5 mechanical finishes?
- Brushing
- Calendaring
- Embossing
- Heat setting
- Stone and sand washing
What is the process of brushing?
- Fabric is passed through a raising machine
- It is permanent and weakens the fabric
- Ignite more readily
What type of finish does brushing have?
Brushed or napped (hairy) appearance, it improves a fabrics ability to trap air making it warmer and softer
What are the uses of brushing?
- Brushed cotton nightwear
- Brushed wool coating and suiting
- Polyester fleece garments
What is the process of calendaring?
Fabric is fed through rotating, heated rollers
What type of finish does calendaring have?
A smooth, lustrous appearance that compacts the surface of a fabric by closing the gaps created by warp and weft yarns making it less penetrable by air and water
What are the uses of calendaring?
- Silk, rayon and polyester used for garments and soft furnishings
- Polyester sails for sail boats
What is the process of embossing?
- A type of calendar it process
- Permanent when heat set
What type of finish does embossing have?
Raised or sunken patterns and textures, it stimulates a grain texture on synthetic leather products
What are the uses of embossing?
- Thermoplastic fabrics, polyester, polyamide
- Furnishing fabrics and some clothing
What is the process of heat setting?
- Fabric stretched to its correct dimensions and held flat before passing through a stenter machine
- Will not shrink
What type of finish does heat setting have?
Improves dimensional stability to stop fabric shrinkage and creasing, it enables a range of functional and aesthetic properties
What are the uses of heat setting?
- Thermoplastic fabrics
- Fashion and furnishing products
- Socks heat set into the shape of the foot
What is the process of stone and sand washing?
- Placed in industrial washing machines filled with stones or sand
- Permanent and can weaken a fabric
What type of finish does stone and sand washing have?
Adds a work, aged appearance to fabrics and gives a soft, flexible handle to fabrics
What are the uses of stone and sand washing?
- Denim for jeans
- Cotton canvas for sails, tents, backpacks
- Linen for bedding
What do chemical finishes do?
Modify a fabrics structure and surface using a wet process involving chemicals, heat and occasionally water
What are the 9 chemical finishes?
- Flame retardancy
- Water resistance
- Crease resistance
- Shrink resistance
- Moth proofing
- Anti pilling
- Hygienic
- Mercerisation
- Anti felting
What is the process of flame retardancy?
- Make fabrics stiff and reduce strength
- Expensive and need careful washing
What are examples and uses of flame retardancy?
- Cotton, linen, viscose, rayon
- Soft furnishings, nightwear, protective clothing
What is the process of water resistance?
Common finishes: Scotchgard and Teflon
What are examples and uses of water resistance?
- All fabrics
- Outdoor products (tents, raincoats), carpets, furniture, shoes, school uniforms
What is the process of crease resistance?
Held in tension in a heat chamber to cure and seal the finish
What are examples and uses of crease resistance?
- Corton, linen, viscose
- Clothing, bedding, soft furnishings
What is the process of shrink resistance?
The more a fibre swells when absorbing water, the greater the fabric shrinkage
What are examples and uses of shrink resistance?
- Cotton, linen, viscose
- Clothing, bedding, soft furnishings
What is the process of moth proofing?
Impregnating the wool fibres with Mitin or Dielmoth makes the wool fibres inedible to moths without damaging the fabrics
What are examples and uses of moth proofing?
- Wool
- Blankets and clothing
What is the process of anti pilling?
Polymers ke solvents can bind fibres into the surface of a fabric to stop them becoming loose
What are examples and uses of anti pilling?
- Wool, cotton, viscose, blended fibre fabrics
- Clothing and jumpers
What is the process of hygienic?
Cotton fabrics can be treated with an odour reducing finish called Purista
What are examples and uses of hygienic?
- Sythetic, regenerated fibres, cotton
- Socks, underwear, sportswear, bedding
What is the process of mercerisation?
- To make cotton shinier, stronger and more absorbent
- Cotton fibres swell and become smoother and more rounded
What are examples and uses of mercerisation?
- Cotton
- Sewing thread, garment and furnishing fabric
What is the process of anti felting?
To prevent felting and shrinkage in animal hair products
What are examples and uses of anti felting?
- Wool, cashmere, angora, mohair
- Blankets, jumpers, shawls
What are laminated fabrics?
Made up of two or more very thin layers of fabric, they are held together with adhesives or fused together by heat setting if thermoplastic fabrics are used
What are the 3 laminated fabrics?
- Gore tex
- Sympatex
- Bonded fabrics
What are some properties of gore tex?
The holes are too small for rainwater to pass through and the membrane acts as a wind barrier making it totally waterproof and windproof
Why is gore tex breathable?
The holes are big enough to let water molecules from perspiration pass through
What is gore tex used for?
A variety of sports and leisure activities and is also worn by outdoor workers and the emergency services
What are the properties of sympatex?
- Waterproof
- Windproof
- Breathable
What is the key difference between gore tex and sympatex?
Sympatex polyester membranes are lifeless and hydrophilic, they attract, draw and hold moisture away from the body
How are bonded fabrics made?
By laminating a top fabric to a lightweight woven backing fabric, this improves a fabrics stability and strength without spoiling its handle and appearance
