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Fashion & Textiles > 1.2 Performance Characteristics of Materials > Flashcards

1.2 Performance Characteristics of Materials Flashcards

1
Q

What is cotton?

A

The most widely used natural cellulose fibre, it comes from the seed fibre found in the cotton bolls of the cotton plant

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2
Q

What are some properties of cotton?

A
  • Breathable
  • Absorbent
  • Good strength
  • Little elasticity
  • Highly flammable
  • Poor insulator
  • Soft handle
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3
Q

What are some examples of cotton?

A
  • Calico
  • Muslin
  • Flannel
  • Chambray
  • Denim
  • Drill
  • Velvet
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4
Q

What are some of the uses of cotton?

A
  • Shirts, dresses, jeans, underwear, socks
  • Towels, sheering, curtains, throws, soft furnishings
  • Medical dressings, nappies, ropes
  • Tents, boat sails, bags, sportswear
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5
Q

What is the cotton fibre production?

A
  • Grows in a boll around the seeds
  • Harvested by hand or licking machine
  • Fibres separated from seeds
  • Mechanical purification used to remove foreign matter
  • Remove natural wax coating
  • Processed cotton fibres spun into staple fibre yarns
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6
Q

What is linen?

A

One of the most expensive natural fibres, it is labour intensive to produce so it is produced in small quantities, it comes from the bast fibre of the flax plant stem

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7
Q

What are some properties of linen?

A
  • Highly absorbent
  • Breathable
  • Very strong
  • Poor elasticity
  • Highly flammable
  • Poor insulator
  • Subtle lustre
  • Poor drape
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8
Q

What are some examples of linen?

A
  • Crash
  • Duck
  • Interlining
  • Huckaback
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9
Q

What are some of the uses of linen?

A
  • Summer or tropical garments
  • Tablecloths, dish towels, bed sheets, curtains
  • Lace, trimming, ropes, sewing threads
  • Awnings, art canvases
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10
Q

What is the linen fibre production?

A
  • Fibres listened from flax plant stems
  • Retted stems crushed in process called scotiching
  • Fibres heckled to remove the shirt fibres
  • Processes linen fibres are spun into staple yarn
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11
Q

What is Ramie?

A

One of the oldest natural fibres, the high cost fibre extraction and production reduces its competitiveness

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12
Q

What are some properties of ramie?

A
  • Good absorbency
  • Breathable
  • Shrink resistant
  • Good strength
  • Poor elasticity
  • Highly flammable
  • Poor insulator
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13
Q

What is an example of ramie?

A
  • Ramie
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14
Q

What are some of the uses of ramie?

A
  • Lightweight summer use
  • Table linens, dish cloths
  • Ribbon, sewing thread, sacks, twine and cord
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15
Q

What is the ramie fibre production?

A
  • Stems harvested by cutting above the root
  • Decortication is used to remove bark of stem
  • Raw fibres washed, dried and degummed using chemicals
  • Processed ramie fibres are spun into staple yarn
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16
Q

What is wool?

A

Comes from fleece of sheep, wool fibres are classed according to their fineness, length, crimo and the breed of sheep they come from

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17
Q

What are some properties of wool?

A
  • Absorbent
  • Adequate strength
  • Fire resistant
  • Good elasticity
  • Good insulation
  • No lustre
  • Soft
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18
Q

What are some examples of wool?

A
  • Flannel
  • Jersey
  • Tweed
  • Fleece
  • Tartan
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19
Q

What are some uses of wool?

A
  • Coats, suits, trousers, sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves, socks
  • Blankets, carpets
  • Loft insulation, noise insulation
  • Horse rugs, athletic and leisure wear
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20
Q

What are the 5 stages of wool fibre production?

A
  1. Shearing
  2. Sorting
  3. Carbonising and scouring
  4. Carding
  5. Spinning
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21
Q

What are some examples of animal hair?

A
  • Cashmere
  • Mohair
  • Angora
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22
Q

What are some properties of animal hair?

A
  • Naturally fire resistant
  • Thermal insulators
  • Soft handle
  • Biodegradable
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23
Q

What are some uses of animal hair?

A
  • Luxury coats, suits, knitwear, shawls
  • Luxury interior textiles
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24
Q

What is the animal hair fibre production?

A
  • Fibres washed and de haired before being spun into yarn
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25
Q

What are some properties of silk?

A
  • Good tensile strength
  • Very absorbent
  • Weak when wet
  • Good elasticity
  • Doesn’t burn easily
  • Lustrous
  • Drapes well
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26
Q

What are some examples of silk?

A
  • Chiffon
  • Duchesse
  • Organza
  • Taffeta
  • Wild silk
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27
Q

What are some uses of silk?

A
  • Formal wear, ties, blouses, lingerie, scarves
  • Soft furnishings, bed sheets, wall hangings
  • Surgical sutures, sewing and embroidery threads, ribbons
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28
Q

What is the silk fibre production?

A
  • Silkworm produces the fibre
  • Cocoons are degummed which kill the moths and softens the sericin
  • Long continuous fibre is unwound form the cocoon and is spun
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29
Q

What are some manufactured cellulosic regenerated fibres?

A
  • First generation fibres
  • New generation fibres
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30
Q

What are 2 examples of first generation fibres?

A
  • Acetate: cotton fibre waste dissolved into a polymer solution
  • Viscose: wood pulp is dissolved into a polymer solution
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31
Q

What are 2 examples of new generation fibres?

A
  • Modal: wood pulp form sustainable managed forests is dissolved into a polymer solution
  • Lyocell (tencel): wood pulp from sustainable manager forests is dissolved
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32
Q

What is dry spinning?

A

The polymer solution is extruded into a stream of warm air, which evaporates the solvent and solidified the filament fibres (acetate)

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33
Q

What is wet spinning?

A

The polymer solution is extruded into a chemical bath. Difficult chemicals are used to make modal and viscose, the chemicals neutralise the solvent and solidify the cellulose from the wood pulp

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34
Q

What is a closed loop system?

A

Cellulose from the wood pulp is regenerated, water is used to wash and remove the solvent, the water and so bent are recovered and recycled for use within a closed loop system

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35
Q

What are some properties of regenerated fibres?

A
  • Absorbent
  • Easy care
  • Breathable
  • Cool to wear
  • Lower strength
  • Soft handle
  • Biodegradable
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36
Q

What are the uses of regenerated fibres?

A
  • Fashion garments, lining fabric, lingerie, trims and ribbons
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37
Q

How are synthetic fibres mostly manufactured?

A

Using the melt spinning process which produces fine, smooth continuous filament fibres

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38
Q

What is polyamide (nylon)?

A

Produced as xknfinius smooth filaments including very fine microfibres

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39
Q

What are some microfibre brand names?

A
  • Tactel Aquator: wicks moisture away from the body
  • Tactel Diablo: lustrous fabric with good drape
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40
Q

What are some properties of polyamide (nylon)?

A
  • Low absorbency
  • Shrink resistant
  • Strong
  • Good elasticity
  • Low flammability
  • Lightweight
  • Thermoplastic
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41
Q

What are some uses of polyamide (nylon)?

A
  • Tights, socks, underwear
  • Outdoor and active wear
  • Tents, umbrellas
  • Carpets
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42
Q

What are 2 brand names of aramids?

A
  • Kevlar
  • Nomex
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43
Q

What are some properties of aramids?

A
  • Good strength
  • Tear resistant
  • Lightweight
  • Flexible
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44
Q

What are the uses of aramids?

A
  • Bullet and stab proof vests
  • Motor sport clothing
  • Industrial work wear
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45
Q

What is polyester?

A

Produced as continuous smooth filaments. Trade name is trevira finesse

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46
Q

What are some properties of polyester?

A
  • Good elasticity
  • Low flammability
  • Lightweight
  • Does not weaken in sunlight
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47
Q

What are some uses of polyester?

A
  • Bed sheeting
  • Lining fabric
  • Sewing thread
  • Wadding and fibre fill
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48
Q

What are some properties of acrylic?

A
  • Low absorbency
  • Easy care
  • Good strength
  • Highly flammable
  • Good elasticity
  • Soft and warm
  • Poor lustre
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49
Q

What are some uses of acrylic?

A
  • Knitting yarn
  • Knitwear
  • Fake fur
  • Carpet
  • Soft furnishings
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50
Q

What are some properties of chlorofibres?

A
  • Strong
  • Durable
  • Breathable
  • Easy care
  • Waterproof
  • Good insulator
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51
Q

What are some uses of chlorofibres?

A
  • Raincoats
  • Thermal clothing
  • Active sportswear
  • Socks and underwear
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52
Q

What is flurofibres trade name?

A

Teflon

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53
Q

What are some properties of flurofibres when applied as a finish?

A
  • Water repellent
  • Stain resistant
  • Easy care
  • Durable and flexible
  • Breathabke but windproof
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54
Q

What are the uses of flurofibres?

A
  • Work wear
  • Soft furnishings
  • Shoes
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55
Q

What is the brand name of elastomeric (elastane)?

A

Lycra

56
Q

What are some properties of elastomeric (elastane)?

A
  • Low absorbency
  • Easy care
  • Tear resistance
  • Lightweight
  • Crease recovery
57
Q

What are some uses of elastomeric (elastane)?

A
  • 1-2% in socks or trousers
  • 15-20% in swimwear, foundation wear or sports wear
58
Q

What are inorganic fibres?

A

Not synthetic polymers but are included in man made fibre classification

59
Q

What are the properties of glass (fibreglass)?

A
  • High tensile strength
  • High heat resistance
  • Poor abrasion resistance
  • Unaffected by sunlight
60
Q

What are the uses of glass (fibreglass)?

A
  • Insulation material in buildings
  • Hospital wall coverings
  • Reinforced plastics
61
Q

What are some properties of carbon?

A
  • Strong
  • Lightweight
  • Tear resistant
  • Flame resistant
62
Q

What are properties of metal?

A
  • Strong
  • Lightweight
  • Good conductor of heat
  • Stiff handle
  • High lustre
63
Q

What are some properties of ceramic?

A
  • Lightweight
  • Regulates body temperature
  • Resitant to high temperatures
64
Q

What can yarns be made from?

A

Staple fibres or filament fibres, they can be manufactured with heist using a spinning process or without twist using a winding process

65
Q

What do low level twists produce?

A

A weaker, softer, bulkier yarn and makes it easier to form a raised nap if the fabric is finished using mechanical brushing

66
Q

What do high level twists produce?

A

A stronger, smoother and denser yarn

67
Q

What is tex?

A

The metric system used to state the thickness of yarn

68
Q

What is denier?

A

A measure of thickness used for all filament yarns. The higher the denier number, the thicker the yarn

69
Q

What are some properties of a staple yarn?

A
  • Hairy: give fabrics texture and a soft fuller handle
  • Good insulators
  • Weaker than filament yarns
  • More expensive
70
Q

What are some properties of filament yarns?

A
  • Smoother
  • Stronger
  • Compact handle and high lustre
71
Q

What are silk filaments?

A

Very fine and need to be lightly twisted with other silk fibres so they can be made into usable yarn

72
Q

What are man made fibres?

A

Extruded form the spinneret as continuous filaments ending mah be grouped together with or without twist

73
Q

What is a single yarn?

A

A continuous single thread of twisted staple or filament fibres group together without twist to make a single yarn

74
Q

How are plied yarns made?

A

By twisting two or more single yarns together

75
Q

What are core spun yarns?

A

Multi component yarns, they have a filament core and a sheath made form staple or filament yarn

76
Q

What does texturing process add?

A

Bulk and interest to other yarns making fabrics softer, more extensible, better insulators and able to retain or wick moisture away from the body

77
Q

What can textures yarns be used in?

A
  • Sportswear
  • Swimwear
  • Underwear
  • Tights
78
Q

What is false twist texturing?

A

Smooth thermoplastic filament yarn is tightly twisted, heat set and then untwisted

79
Q

What is air jet texturing?

A

A jet of compressed air created loops and tangles

80
Q

What cba fancy yarn change?

A

The appearance and handle of fabrics by adding irregularities and other effects

81
Q

What is boucle yarn?

A

The looped yarn can add colour and give a textured bumpy feel to woven or knitted fabrics

82
Q

What is slub yarn?

A

Made by changing the spinning speed at irregular intervals to produce yarn with thicker and thinner sections

83
Q

What is chenille yarn?

A

Made by weaving and then cutting an open, net type fabric into strips

84
Q

What is metallised yarn?

A

Gives na iridescent effect and is used to make fabrics such as lame and brocades

85
Q

How are blends achieved?

A

By spinning two or more different fibres together and make a yarn

86
Q

What do staple yarns require?

A

The fibres to be the same length so they can be blended together before being spun into a yarn

87
Q

What performance properties do blending yarns do?

A
  • Make fabric stronger
  • Make fabric easier to care for and less prone to shrinking and creasing
  • Give improved comfort, absorbency, thermal insulation and stretch
  • Give thermoplastic properties to enable heat setting
88
Q

What aesthetic appearances do blending yarns do?

A
  • Improve texture and handle
  • Give novelty effects when yarn or fabric is dyed since the uptake of dye by some fibres is better than others
  • Give improved colour or lustre
89
Q

What additional advantages do blending yarns do?

A
  • Reduces costs if a cheaper fibre is included
  • Allows for quicker washing and drying times
90
Q

What are the disadvantages of blending yarns?

A
  • Burn at high temperatures and give off toxic fumes
91
Q

What are some popular yarn blends?

A
  • Polyester and cotton
  • Viscose and nylon
  • Wool and nylon
  • Cotton and lycra
92
Q

How are warp yarns produced?

A

Fixed in the loom and run the length of the fabric

93
Q

How are weft yarns produced?

A

Run across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge

94
Q

What are the three main types of weave?

A
  • Plain
  • Twill
  • Satin
95
Q

What are the main characteristics of plain weave?

A
  • Simplest and cheapest
  • Fabric looks same in both sides
  • Maximum number of interlacing points so it is strong
  • Highly twisted yarns
96
Q

What are examples and uses of plain weave?

A
  • Calico, canvas, chiffon, muslin, shirting, chambray, flannel
  • garment and interior products, sheeting
97
Q

What are the main characteristics of twill weave?

A
  • Hardest wearing weave
  • More complex so more expensive
  • Frays due to fewer interlacing points
  • Definite right and wrong side
  • Uneven surface pattern shows less dirt
98
Q

What are examples and uses of twill weave?

A
  • Denim, drill, tartan, herringbone tweeds
  • Tailored outfits or work wear
99
Q

What are the main characteristics of satin weave?

A
  • Definite right and wrong side
  • Not hard wearing
  • Frays and snags easily due to fewer interlacing points
  • Not many variations are possible
100
Q

What are examples and uses of satin weave?

A
  • Satin, sateen, duchesse satin, heavy bridal satin
  • Lingerie, bridal wear
101
Q

What are the main characteristics of jacquard weave?

A
  • Stiff, heavy fabric
  • Definite right and wrong side
  • Expensive
  • Embroided appearance
102
Q

What are examples and uses of jacquard weave?

A
  • Brocade used in formal wear or in expensive furnishing fabrics
  • Damask used in furnishing fabrics
103
Q

What are the main characteristics of warp pile weave?

A
  • Expensive
  • Lots of wastage due to nap layplan
  • Not durable
  • Heavy, warm, soft plush fabric created with good drape
104
Q

What are examples and uses of warp pile weave?

A

Velvet is used in garments, upholstery and soft furnishing fabrics

105
Q

What are the main characteristics of weft pile weave?

A
  • Expensive
  • Machine washed
106
Q

What are examples and uses of weft like weave?

A

Corduroy and needlecord are used in garments, upholstery and soft furnishing fabrics

107
Q

What are the main characteristics of uncut loop pile weave?

A
  • Strong and durable
  • Expensive
  • Soft, very absorbent and thermally insulating
  • Long time to dry and heavy when wet
  • Frays and ravels when cut
108
Q

How are stripes created?

A

Two or more different blocks of colours in the warp and one colour in the weft

109
Q

How are checks created?

A

Blocks of different coloured dyed yarn in both the warp and the weft

110
Q

How is gingham created?

A

equal blocks of two different coloured yarns in both the warp and the weft given even sides to check

111
Q

How is tartan created?

A

Alternating different sized bands of coloured yarn are interlaced in the warps and wetfs using a plain or twill weave

112
Q

How is madras created?

A

Commercial production is similar to tartan but brightly coloured dyed cotton yarn and a plain weave is used to create a large check pattern

113
Q

What does a boucle fabric create?

A

A bulky plain woven fabric that can have different colours and a textured hairy knotty surface

114
Q

What is crepe fabric?

A

Highly twisted unbalanced yarns create a soft fabric that drapes well and has an irregular crinkled appearance

115
Q

How can crinkles and permanent creasing be achieved?

A

By printing a striped pattern, using a caustic soda solution, which causes the treated area to shrink and crinkle

116
Q

How are multi coloured fabrics achieved?

A

By using different fibre in a fabric or different dyes make it possible to get interesting colour effects

117
Q

What are knitted fabrics made of?

A

Interlocking loops using one or more yarn

118
Q

What is a weft knit?

A

A single yarn travels the width of the fabric in the same way with a weft yarn does in a woven fabric

119
Q

What are the main characteristics of a weft knit?

A
  • Simplest knit
  • Produced by hand or machine
  • Very stretchy, distorts easily
  • Drapes softly
  • Does not crease easily
  • Good insulator
  • Snags and ladders
  • Definite right and wrong side
120
Q

What are some examples and uses of the weft knit?

A
  • Single jerseys
  • Double jerseys
  • Rib knits
  • Sliver knits
  • Jacquard knits
121
Q

What is a warp knit?

A

Individual yarns are interlocked sideways along the length of the fabric in the same way that the warp yarn runs parallel to the selvedge of a woven fabric

122
Q

What are the main characteristics of a warp knit?

A
  • More complex structure
  • Produced by machine
  • Less stretchy
  • Does not ladder
  • Faster than weft knit
  • Cheapest and fastest
123
Q

What are some examples and uses of a warp knit?

A
  • Tricots
  • Locknit fabrics
  • Knitted velour
  • Knitted lace fabrics
124
Q

What is hand knitting?

A

Has a craft aesthetic and is used to make individual products

125
Q

What is machine knitting?

A

Can be done on flat or circular industrial knitting machines. Flatbed machines have a row of needles that produce a wide width of fabric. Circular machines make a tube of knitting

126
Q

What is panel knitting?

A

Individual, flat, rectangular panels including a finished off edge for the cuff or waistband are knitted. Garment parts are then cut to shape and assembled

127
Q

What are fully fashioned panels?

A

The garment parts are knitted to the required shape and size and then stitch together to make the garment. This process is used to manufacture high-quality garments and hand knitted garments.

128
Q

What is whole garment knitting?

A

Knits a garment three-dimensionally in one piece. It is more suitable as there is no wastage and the seamfree garments don’t break a garments flow, making them comfortable to wear and easy to move in

129
Q

What is a non woven fabric?

A

Produced directly from fibres, they include delta and bonded fabrics

130
Q

What are characteristics of non woven fabrics?

A
  • Lacks strength
  • Stiff and have no stretch
  • Do not fray
  • Cheap
  • Thermally insulating
131
Q

What are smart materials?

A

A material that is able to react to external stimuli or changes in its environment without human intervention

132
Q

What do external stimuli include?

A

Changes in:
- Temperature
- Light levels
- Pressure

133
Q

What do smart materials include?

A
  • Monitor body functions
  • Maintian a personal climate
  • Change colour due to situations
  • Shape memory
  • Self cleaning
  • Solar power
134
Q

What are technical textiles?

A

Manufactured for non aesthetic purposes where function is the primary criterion

135
Q

What are some examples of techniqual and modern materials?

A
  • Gore tex
  • Kevlar and Nomex
  • Phosphorescent textiles
  • Reflective textiles
  • Microenscapulayed fibres
  • Microfibres
136
Q

What determines the performance characteristics of a fabric?

A
  • The fibre, or blend of mixture of fibres
  • The yarn structure
  • The way the fibres or yarns are incorporated
  • The way the fabric is finished

Fashion & Textiles (24 decks)

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