1.2 Performance Characteristics of Materials Flashcards
What is cotton?
The most widely used natural cellulose fibre, it comes from the seed fibre found in the cotton bolls of the cotton plant
What are some properties of cotton?
- Breathable
- Absorbent
- Good strength
- Little elasticity
- Highly flammable
- Poor insulator
- Soft handle
What are some examples of cotton?
- Calico
- Muslin
- Flannel
- Chambray
- Denim
- Drill
- Velvet
What are some of the uses of cotton?
- Shirts, dresses, jeans, underwear, socks
- Towels, sheering, curtains, throws, soft furnishings
- Medical dressings, nappies, ropes
- Tents, boat sails, bags, sportswear
What is the cotton fibre production?
- Grows in a boll around the seeds
- Harvested by hand or licking machine
- Fibres separated from seeds
- Mechanical purification used to remove foreign matter
- Remove natural wax coating
- Processed cotton fibres spun into staple fibre yarns
What is linen?
One of the most expensive natural fibres, it is labour intensive to produce so it is produced in small quantities, it comes from the bast fibre of the flax plant stem
What are some properties of linen?
- Highly absorbent
- Breathable
- Very strong
- Poor elasticity
- Highly flammable
- Poor insulator
- Subtle lustre
- Poor drape
What are some examples of linen?
- Crash
- Duck
- Interlining
- Huckaback
What are some of the uses of linen?
- Summer or tropical garments
- Tablecloths, dish towels, bed sheets, curtains
- Lace, trimming, ropes, sewing threads
- Awnings, art canvases
What is the linen fibre production?
- Fibres listened from flax plant stems
- Retted stems crushed in process called scotiching
- Fibres heckled to remove the shirt fibres
- Processes linen fibres are spun into staple yarn
What is Ramie?
One of the oldest natural fibres, the high cost fibre extraction and production reduces its competitiveness
What are some properties of ramie?
- Good absorbency
- Breathable
- Shrink resistant
- Good strength
- Poor elasticity
- Highly flammable
- Poor insulator
What is an example of ramie?
- Ramie
What are some of the uses of ramie?
- Lightweight summer use
- Table linens, dish cloths
- Ribbon, sewing thread, sacks, twine and cord
What is the ramie fibre production?
- Stems harvested by cutting above the root
- Decortication is used to remove bark of stem
- Raw fibres washed, dried and degummed using chemicals
- Processed ramie fibres are spun into staple yarn
What is wool?
Comes from fleece of sheep, wool fibres are classed according to their fineness, length, crimo and the breed of sheep they come from
What are some properties of wool?
- Absorbent
- Adequate strength
- Fire resistant
- Good elasticity
- Good insulation
- No lustre
- Soft
What are some examples of wool?
- Flannel
- Jersey
- Tweed
- Fleece
- Tartan
What are some uses of wool?
- Coats, suits, trousers, sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves, socks
- Blankets, carpets
- Loft insulation, noise insulation
- Horse rugs, athletic and leisure wear
What are the 5 stages of wool fibre production?
- Shearing
- Sorting
- Carbonising and scouring
- Carding
- Spinning
What are some examples of animal hair?
- Cashmere
- Mohair
- Angora
What are some properties of animal hair?
- Naturally fire resistant
- Thermal insulators
- Soft handle
- Biodegradable
What are some uses of animal hair?
- Luxury coats, suits, knitwear, shawls
- Luxury interior textiles
What is the animal hair fibre production?
- Fibres washed and de haired before being spun into yarn
What are some properties of silk?
- Good tensile strength
- Very absorbent
- Weak when wet
- Good elasticity
- Doesn’t burn easily
- Lustrous
- Drapes well
What are some examples of silk?
- Chiffon
- Duchesse
- Organza
- Taffeta
- Wild silk
What are some uses of silk?
- Formal wear, ties, blouses, lingerie, scarves
- Soft furnishings, bed sheets, wall hangings
- Surgical sutures, sewing and embroidery threads, ribbons
What is the silk fibre production?
- Silkworm produces the fibre
- Cocoons are degummed which kill the moths and softens the sericin
- Long continuous fibre is unwound form the cocoon and is spun
What are some manufactured cellulosic regenerated fibres?
- First generation fibres
- New generation fibres
What are 2 examples of first generation fibres?
- Acetate: cotton fibre waste dissolved into a polymer solution
- Viscose: wood pulp is dissolved into a polymer solution
What are 2 examples of new generation fibres?
- Modal: wood pulp form sustainable managed forests is dissolved into a polymer solution
- Lyocell (tencel): wood pulp from sustainable manager forests is dissolved
What is dry spinning?
The polymer solution is extruded into a stream of warm air, which evaporates the solvent and solidified the filament fibres (acetate)
What is wet spinning?
The polymer solution is extruded into a chemical bath. Difficult chemicals are used to make modal and viscose, the chemicals neutralise the solvent and solidify the cellulose from the wood pulp
What is a closed loop system?
Cellulose from the wood pulp is regenerated, water is used to wash and remove the solvent, the water and so bent are recovered and recycled for use within a closed loop system
What are some properties of regenerated fibres?
- Absorbent
- Easy care
- Breathable
- Cool to wear
- Lower strength
- Soft handle
- Biodegradable
What are the uses of regenerated fibres?
- Fashion garments, lining fabric, lingerie, trims and ribbons
How are synthetic fibres mostly manufactured?
Using the melt spinning process which produces fine, smooth continuous filament fibres
What is polyamide (nylon)?
Produced as xknfinius smooth filaments including very fine microfibres
What are some microfibre brand names?
- Tactel Aquator: wicks moisture away from the body
- Tactel Diablo: lustrous fabric with good drape
What are some properties of polyamide (nylon)?
- Low absorbency
- Shrink resistant
- Strong
- Good elasticity
- Low flammability
- Lightweight
- Thermoplastic
What are some uses of polyamide (nylon)?
- Tights, socks, underwear
- Outdoor and active wear
- Tents, umbrellas
- Carpets
What are 2 brand names of aramids?
- Kevlar
- Nomex
What are some properties of aramids?
- Good strength
- Tear resistant
- Lightweight
- Flexible
What are the uses of aramids?
- Bullet and stab proof vests
- Motor sport clothing
- Industrial work wear
What is polyester?
Produced as continuous smooth filaments. Trade name is trevira finesse
What are some properties of polyester?
- Good elasticity
- Low flammability
- Lightweight
- Does not weaken in sunlight
What are some uses of polyester?
- Bed sheeting
- Lining fabric
- Sewing thread
- Wadding and fibre fill
What are some properties of acrylic?
- Low absorbency
- Easy care
- Good strength
- Highly flammable
- Good elasticity
- Soft and warm
- Poor lustre
What are some uses of acrylic?
- Knitting yarn
- Knitwear
- Fake fur
- Carpet
- Soft furnishings
What are some properties of chlorofibres?
- Strong
- Durable
- Breathable
- Easy care
- Waterproof
- Good insulator
What are some uses of chlorofibres?
- Raincoats
- Thermal clothing
- Active sportswear
- Socks and underwear
What is flurofibres trade name?
Teflon
What are some properties of flurofibres when applied as a finish?
- Water repellent
- Stain resistant
- Easy care
- Durable and flexible
- Breathabke but windproof
What are the uses of flurofibres?
- Work wear
- Soft furnishings
- Shoes
What is the brand name of elastomeric (elastane)?
Lycra
What are some properties of elastomeric (elastane)?
- Low absorbency
- Easy care
- Tear resistance
- Lightweight
- Crease recovery
What are some uses of elastomeric (elastane)?
- 1-2% in socks or trousers
- 15-20% in swimwear, foundation wear or sports wear
What are inorganic fibres?
Not synthetic polymers but are included in man made fibre classification
What are the properties of glass (fibreglass)?
- High tensile strength
- High heat resistance
- Poor abrasion resistance
- Unaffected by sunlight
What are the uses of glass (fibreglass)?
- Insulation material in buildings
- Hospital wall coverings
- Reinforced plastics
What are some properties of carbon?
- Strong
- Lightweight
- Tear resistant
- Flame resistant
What are properties of metal?
- Strong
- Lightweight
- Good conductor of heat
- Stiff handle
- High lustre
What are some properties of ceramic?
- Lightweight
- Regulates body temperature
- Resitant to high temperatures
What can yarns be made from?
Staple fibres or filament fibres, they can be manufactured with heist using a spinning process or without twist using a winding process
What do low level twists produce?
A weaker, softer, bulkier yarn and makes it easier to form a raised nap if the fabric is finished using mechanical brushing
What do high level twists produce?
A stronger, smoother and denser yarn
What is tex?
The metric system used to state the thickness of yarn
What is denier?
A measure of thickness used for all filament yarns. The higher the denier number, the thicker the yarn
What are some properties of a staple yarn?
- Hairy: give fabrics texture and a soft fuller handle
- Good insulators
- Weaker than filament yarns
- More expensive
What are some properties of filament yarns?
- Smoother
- Stronger
- Compact handle and high lustre
What are silk filaments?
Very fine and need to be lightly twisted with other silk fibres so they can be made into usable yarn
What are man made fibres?
Extruded form the spinneret as continuous filaments ending mah be grouped together with or without twist
What is a single yarn?
A continuous single thread of twisted staple or filament fibres group together without twist to make a single yarn
How are plied yarns made?
By twisting two or more single yarns together
What are core spun yarns?
Multi component yarns, they have a filament core and a sheath made form staple or filament yarn
What does texturing process add?
Bulk and interest to other yarns making fabrics softer, more extensible, better insulators and able to retain or wick moisture away from the body
What can textures yarns be used in?
- Sportswear
- Swimwear
- Underwear
- Tights
What is false twist texturing?
Smooth thermoplastic filament yarn is tightly twisted, heat set and then untwisted
What is air jet texturing?
A jet of compressed air created loops and tangles
What cba fancy yarn change?
The appearance and handle of fabrics by adding irregularities and other effects
What is boucle yarn?
The looped yarn can add colour and give a textured bumpy feel to woven or knitted fabrics
What is slub yarn?
Made by changing the spinning speed at irregular intervals to produce yarn with thicker and thinner sections
What is chenille yarn?
Made by weaving and then cutting an open, net type fabric into strips
What is metallised yarn?
Gives na iridescent effect and is used to make fabrics such as lame and brocades
How are blends achieved?
By spinning two or more different fibres together and make a yarn
What do staple yarns require?
The fibres to be the same length so they can be blended together before being spun into a yarn
What performance properties do blending yarns do?
- Make fabric stronger
- Make fabric easier to care for and less prone to shrinking and creasing
- Give improved comfort, absorbency, thermal insulation and stretch
- Give thermoplastic properties to enable heat setting
What aesthetic appearances do blending yarns do?
- Improve texture and handle
- Give novelty effects when yarn or fabric is dyed since the uptake of dye by some fibres is better than others
- Give improved colour or lustre
What additional advantages do blending yarns do?
- Reduces costs if a cheaper fibre is included
- Allows for quicker washing and drying times
What are the disadvantages of blending yarns?
- Burn at high temperatures and give off toxic fumes
What are some popular yarn blends?
- Polyester and cotton
- Viscose and nylon
- Wool and nylon
- Cotton and lycra
How are warp yarns produced?
Fixed in the loom and run the length of the fabric
How are weft yarns produced?
Run across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge
What are the three main types of weave?
- Plain
- Twill
- Satin
What are the main characteristics of plain weave?
- Simplest and cheapest
- Fabric looks same in both sides
- Maximum number of interlacing points so it is strong
- Highly twisted yarns
What are examples and uses of plain weave?
- Calico, canvas, chiffon, muslin, shirting, chambray, flannel
- garment and interior products, sheeting
What are the main characteristics of twill weave?
- Hardest wearing weave
- More complex so more expensive
- Frays due to fewer interlacing points
- Definite right and wrong side
- Uneven surface pattern shows less dirt
What are examples and uses of twill weave?
- Denim, drill, tartan, herringbone tweeds
- Tailored outfits or work wear
What are the main characteristics of satin weave?
- Definite right and wrong side
- Not hard wearing
- Frays and snags easily due to fewer interlacing points
- Not many variations are possible
What are examples and uses of satin weave?
- Satin, sateen, duchesse satin, heavy bridal satin
- Lingerie, bridal wear
What are the main characteristics of jacquard weave?
- Stiff, heavy fabric
- Definite right and wrong side
- Expensive
- Embroided appearance
What are examples and uses of jacquard weave?
- Brocade used in formal wear or in expensive furnishing fabrics
- Damask used in furnishing fabrics
What are the main characteristics of warp pile weave?
- Expensive
- Lots of wastage due to nap layplan
- Not durable
- Heavy, warm, soft plush fabric created with good drape
What are examples and uses of warp pile weave?
Velvet is used in garments, upholstery and soft furnishing fabrics
What are the main characteristics of weft pile weave?
- Expensive
- Machine washed
What are examples and uses of weft like weave?
Corduroy and needlecord are used in garments, upholstery and soft furnishing fabrics
What are the main characteristics of uncut loop pile weave?
- Strong and durable
- Expensive
- Soft, very absorbent and thermally insulating
- Long time to dry and heavy when wet
- Frays and ravels when cut
How are stripes created?
Two or more different blocks of colours in the warp and one colour in the weft
How are checks created?
Blocks of different coloured dyed yarn in both the warp and the weft
How is gingham created?
equal blocks of two different coloured yarns in both the warp and the weft given even sides to check
How is tartan created?
Alternating different sized bands of coloured yarn are interlaced in the warps and wetfs using a plain or twill weave
How is madras created?
Commercial production is similar to tartan but brightly coloured dyed cotton yarn and a plain weave is used to create a large check pattern
What does a boucle fabric create?
A bulky plain woven fabric that can have different colours and a textured hairy knotty surface
What is crepe fabric?
Highly twisted unbalanced yarns create a soft fabric that drapes well and has an irregular crinkled appearance
How can crinkles and permanent creasing be achieved?
By printing a striped pattern, using a caustic soda solution, which causes the treated area to shrink and crinkle
How are multi coloured fabrics achieved?
By using different fibre in a fabric or different dyes make it possible to get interesting colour effects
What are knitted fabrics made of?
Interlocking loops using one or more yarn
What is a weft knit?
A single yarn travels the width of the fabric in the same way with a weft yarn does in a woven fabric
What are the main characteristics of a weft knit?
- Simplest knit
- Produced by hand or machine
- Very stretchy, distorts easily
- Drapes softly
- Does not crease easily
- Good insulator
- Snags and ladders
- Definite right and wrong side
What are some examples and uses of the weft knit?
- Single jerseys
- Double jerseys
- Rib knits
- Sliver knits
- Jacquard knits
What is a warp knit?
Individual yarns are interlocked sideways along the length of the fabric in the same way that the warp yarn runs parallel to the selvedge of a woven fabric
What are the main characteristics of a warp knit?
- More complex structure
- Produced by machine
- Less stretchy
- Does not ladder
- Faster than weft knit
- Cheapest and fastest
What are some examples and uses of a warp knit?
- Tricots
- Locknit fabrics
- Knitted velour
- Knitted lace fabrics
What is hand knitting?
Has a craft aesthetic and is used to make individual products
What is machine knitting?
Can be done on flat or circular industrial knitting machines. Flatbed machines have a row of needles that produce a wide width of fabric. Circular machines make a tube of knitting
What is panel knitting?
Individual, flat, rectangular panels including a finished off edge for the cuff or waistband are knitted. Garment parts are then cut to shape and assembled
What are fully fashioned panels?
The garment parts are knitted to the required shape and size and then stitch together to make the garment. This process is used to manufacture high-quality garments and hand knitted garments.
What is whole garment knitting?
Knits a garment three-dimensionally in one piece. It is more suitable as there is no wastage and the seamfree garments don’t break a garments flow, making them comfortable to wear and easy to move in
What is a non woven fabric?
Produced directly from fibres, they include delta and bonded fabrics
What are characteristics of non woven fabrics?
- Lacks strength
- Stiff and have no stretch
- Do not fray
- Cheap
- Thermally insulating
What are smart materials?
A material that is able to react to external stimuli or changes in its environment without human intervention
What do external stimuli include?
Changes in:
- Temperature
- Light levels
- Pressure
What do smart materials include?
- Monitor body functions
- Maintian a personal climate
- Change colour due to situations
- Shape memory
- Self cleaning
- Solar power
What are technical textiles?
Manufactured for non aesthetic purposes where function is the primary criterion
What are some examples of techniqual and modern materials?
- Gore tex
- Kevlar and Nomex
- Phosphorescent textiles
- Reflective textiles
- Microenscapulayed fibres
- Microfibres
What determines the performance characteristics of a fabric?
- The fibre, or blend of mixture of fibres
- The yarn structure
- The way the fibres or yarns are incorporated
- The way the fabric is finished
