1.3 Methods of Joining and Use of Components Flashcards
What will a good seam be?
- Strong and durable
- Smooth and even
- Accurately sewn
What are the 4 main types of seam?
- Plain/open seam
- French seam
- Fell/double machined seam
- Lapped seam
What are the main characteristics of a plain seam?
- Needs edge finishing to stop fraying
- Simple and quick
- Most commonly used
- Strong
- Not visible on right side
What are the uses of a plain seam?
- Suitable for all normal weight fabrics
- Used in most garments, household textiles and sporting goods
What are the characteristics of french seam?
- Self finishing as all raw edges are enclosed
- More challenging and time consuming
- Strong
- Can be bulky
What are the uses of a french seam?
- Used with delicate, fine, sheer fabrics that are prone to fraying such as chiffon and organza
- Suitable for lightweight clothing, lingerie and children’s wear
What are the characteristics of a fell seam?
- Self finishing as all raw edges are enclosed
- Challenging and time consuming
- Very strong and durable
- Gives a decorative feature
What are the uses of a fell seam?
Used on products that have to withstand heavy wear and frequent washing such as shirts, jeans, trousers and overalls
What are the characteristics of a lapped seam?
- Simple and quick
- Flat, smooth finish
- Gives a decorative effect
- Strong
What are the uses of a lapped seam?
Typically used on bulky fabrics that do not fray such as heel e and artificial leather
What do edge finishes give?
A neat appearance and prevent fraying, helping to increase the life of a product
What do edge finishing techniques include?
- Edge stitching
- Overlocking
- Pinking
- Binding
What should be avoided for knitted fabric?
Stretching the fabric when pinning and cutting out
What stitch should be used on knitted fabric?
A stretch stitch with a polyester thread as it is strong and has some give
What needle should be used when knitted fabric?
A ballpoint needle to prevent snagging, using interfacing will also strengthen and stop snagging
What stitch should be used on stretch fabrics?
A stretch stitch with polyester sewing thread enables seams and hems to stretch with the fabric
What needle should be used on stretch fabrics?
A fine ballpoint needle to prevent snagging
What interfacing should be used on stretch fabrics?
Stretch interfacing to maintain stretch but increase stability
What layout is needed for checked and patterned fabrics?
A nap layout to achieve symmetry and overall continuity of the pattern across seams, pockets, darts and facings
What should happen at the sewing line and not the cutting line of checked and patterned fabrics?
Match, pin and tack seams
How do checked and patterned fabrics need to be cut?
On the bias to solve matching problems
What layout do directional fabrics need?
A nap layout to avoid pattern and shape variations in the finished product
What needles need to be used on directional fabrics?
Fine, sharp needles to prevent snagging, by finish seam edges as early as possible also prevents fraying
Where should directional fabrics been pinned?
In the seam allowance to toe th directional fabrics being marked
What needs to happen to sheet fabrics?
Sandwich the fabric in tissue paper to prevent sliding or mangling when sewn
What do you need to work with for sheer fabric?
Fine pins, sharp needles and scissor do avoid snagging
Where should sheer fabric be pinned?
In the seam allowance and use narrow self finishing french seams
What does the fabric need to be when using sheer fabrics?
Keep on taut when sewing do prevent puckering, th same fabric should be sheer to strength areas
What are polyester fibres?
The most used to make purpose sewing threads
What are some characteristics of polyester fibres?
- Strong
- Degree of give, so they are good with stretch fabrics
- Do not shrink
- Resistant to rot
What are specialist threads?
Buttonhole thread is a thicker thread made from polyester or silk, and it is used for handstitched buttonholes, setting on buttons and top stitching.
What are the 2 embroidery threads?
- Stranded embroidery cotton thread
- Machine embroidery thread
What are metallic threads?
Can because spun by loosely wrapping fine yarn around very fine strips of metal laminated between clear synthetic film
What are metallic effect threads?
Appear to be made out of metal but synthetic fibres are used to give highly lustrous 3-D effects
What are glow in the dark threads?
Made from coated polyester, impregnated with a phosphorescent pigment. The thread is charged by exposure to bright light and will glow in the dark.
What are multi coloured of variegated threads?
Have a repeat of multicoloured dye pattern running throughout
What is bondaweb?
A commercially available fusible fleece fabric. It is a soft, double sided adhesive web that is attached to transfer paper
What are zips?
Secure fastenings but if they break they are hard to repair and the product may become unusable
What are poppers used for?
To fasten an opening where a smooth flat closure is desired
What happens if a popper breaks?
It is impossible to replace as a home is left in the fabric
What are clips used on?
Luggage and sporting equipment applications
What are buckles used to do?
Fasten narrow products such as belts or bag straps
What are clasps?
Made out of metal or plastic and are used in a range of products including bags, coats and swimwear
What are some characteristics of velcro?
- Durable
- Virtually unbreakable
- Easy care
What are d-rings used for?
To alter the length of bag straps and belts
Why are d-rings not very secure?
They rely on friction between the strap and rings to stay in place
What are books and eyes used on?
- Bras
- Top of some dresses
- Trousers
What are fabric and ribbon ties?
Decorative fastenings which are not very secure but are cheap and easy to use
What are trims?
Decorative components that add interest and finishing touches to products
What are the characteristics of braids?
- Long and narrow
- Cords are circular braided materials
- Complex structures formed by plaiting or weaving braids
What are the uses of braids?
- Decorative edge trims sewn onto garments or craft projects
- Formal garments and dress uniforms
What are the characteristics of ribbon?
- Woven with fine warp yarns with a high warp density
- Long edges are finished but the cut short edge frays
- Made from polyester and silk
What are the uses of ribbon?
Used as tie fastenings or as a decorative trim on the edges of clothing or furnishings
What are the characteristics of piping?
- Strip of bias cut fabric
- Made from cotton or polyester fibres
- Fine cord used for garments and thicker cord is used for soft furnishings
What are the uses of piping?
- Used to define style lines in garments
- Strengthens areas vulnerable to abrasion in soft furnishings
What are the characteristics of edging?
Come with finished edges
What are the uses of edging?
Decorative edge grins sewn onto finished products
What are the characteristics of bindings?
- Strips of fabric diagonally fit across the cross or bias grain
- Bias binding can stretch and follow curves without creasing
What are the uses of bindings?
Used to edge textile products or cover the raw edge turnings of plain seams
What are the characteristics of fringing?
- Decorative border
- Looped threads, cords, beads or tassels attached to separate braid
- Narrow strips of material
What are the uses of fringing?
- Used as edging for interior products such as cushions and curtains
- Used as ornamental trims on flags and uniforms, fashion garments, dance and period costumes
What are the characteristics of lace?
- Made from cotton, polyester, rayon or silk
- Sewn onto edges to hide hems or appliquéd onto surfaces
- Delicate weblike patterns that snag easily
What are the uses of lace?
Used on special occasion wear, wedding dresses, lingerie, table linen and trimming in children’s socks
What are the characteristics of beads?
- Add lustre and texture
- Machined or hand sewn into fabrics
What are the uses of beads?
- To emphasise style lines
- Create patterns on products
What are the characteristics of diamantés?
- Glued onto fabric or they come with pre glued base
What are the uses of diamantés?
Used on special occasion wear, belts, shoes and children’s clothing
What are some examples of e-components?
- Wearable sensors that monitor temperature, moisture and medical devices
- Integrated communication systems
- Sound effects
What are the characteristics of interfacings?
- An extra layer of fabric used under or between the out layers
- Comes in different weights and colours
- Applied before garment construction begins
What are the uses of interfacing?
Helps to:
- Give a crisp shape
- Strengthens fabric to support fastenings
- Stop fabric from stretching
- Stabalise fabric for embroidery
What are the characteristics of underlinings?
- Cut to same shape and size as outer layer
- Sewn to wrong side and treated as one layer
- Fabric lightweight and have same aftercare
What are the uses of underlinings?
Helps to:
- Maintain shape without stiffening it
- Support seam in loose weave fabrics
- Provide opacity to sheer and lace fabrics making them less see through
What are the characteristics of linings?
- Constructed separately and attached at facing or hem areas
- Can be fully or partially lined
- Same care requirements
What are the uses of linings?
Helps to:
- Make inside more attractive
- Cover and protect internal construction
- Warmer and more comfortable
- Hangs well
- Protect outer fabric
What are the characteristics of interlinings?
- Fabric layer added to a garment
- Soft and lightweight
- Sew in as one with the lining
What are the uses of interlinings?
Helps to:
- Warmer/ better insulators
- Add body to a garment and improve its drape
