1.3 Methods of Joining and Use of Components Flashcards
What will a good seam be?
- Strong and durable
- Smooth and even
- Accurately sewn
What are the 4 main types of seam?
- Plain/open seam
- French seam
- Fell/double machined seam
- Lapped seam
What are the main characteristics of a plain seam?
- Needs edge finishing to stop fraying
- Simple and quick
- Most commonly used
- Strong
- Not visible on right side
What are the uses of a plain seam?
- Suitable for all normal weight fabrics
- Used in most garments, household textiles and sporting goods
What are the characteristics of french seam?
- Self finishing as all raw edges are enclosed
- More challenging and time consuming
- Strong
- Can be bulky
What are the uses of a french seam?
- Used with delicate, fine, sheer fabrics that are prone to fraying such as chiffon and organza
- Suitable for lightweight clothing, lingerie and children’s wear
What are the characteristics of a fell seam?
- Self finishing as all raw edges are enclosed
- Challenging and time consuming
- Very strong and durable
- Gives a decorative feature
What are the uses of a fell seam?
Used on products that have to withstand heavy wear and frequent washing such as shirts, jeans, trousers and overalls
What are the characteristics of a lapped seam?
- Simple and quick
- Flat, smooth finish
- Gives a decorative effect
- Strong
What are the uses of a lapped seam?
Typically used on bulky fabrics that do not fray such as heel e and artificial leather
What do edge finishes give?
A neat appearance and prevent fraying, helping to increase the life of a product
What do edge finishing techniques include?
- Edge stitching
- Overlocking
- Pinking
- Binding
What should be avoided for knitted fabric?
Stretching the fabric when pinning and cutting out
What stitch should be used on knitted fabric?
A stretch stitch with a polyester thread as it is strong and has some give
What needle should be used when knitted fabric?
A ballpoint needle to prevent snagging, using interfacing will also strengthen and stop snagging
What stitch should be used on stretch fabrics?
A stretch stitch with polyester sewing thread enables seams and hems to stretch with the fabric
What needle should be used on stretch fabrics?
A fine ballpoint needle to prevent snagging
What interfacing should be used on stretch fabrics?
Stretch interfacing to maintain stretch but increase stability
What layout is needed for checked and patterned fabrics?
A nap layout to achieve symmetry and overall continuity of the pattern across seams, pockets, darts and facings
What should happen at the sewing line and not the cutting line of checked and patterned fabrics?
Match, pin and tack seams
How do checked and patterned fabrics need to be cut?
On the bias to solve matching problems
What layout do directional fabrics need?
A nap layout to avoid pattern and shape variations in the finished product
What needles need to be used on directional fabrics?
Fine, sharp needles to prevent snagging, by finish seam edges as early as possible also prevents fraying
Where should directional fabrics been pinned?
In the seam allowance to toe th directional fabrics being marked
What needs to happen to sheet fabrics?
Sandwich the fabric in tissue paper to prevent sliding or mangling when sewn
What do you need to work with for sheer fabric?
Fine pins, sharp needles and scissor do avoid snagging
Where should sheer fabric be pinned?
In the seam allowance and use narrow self finishing french seams
What does the fabric need to be when using sheer fabrics?
Keep on taut when sewing do prevent puckering, th same fabric should be sheer to strength areas
What are polyester fibres?
The most used to make purpose sewing threads
What are some characteristics of polyester fibres?
- Strong
- Degree of give, so they are good with stretch fabrics
- Do not shrink
- Resistant to rot