WINES OF THE WORLD 🇫🇷 France - Burgundy Flashcards
Climate of Chablis
Cool continental, rainfall is spread throughout the year causing a moist climate.
Position of Chablis
In the valley of the River Serein in the northern-most part of Burgundy.
Type of soils in Chablis
Limestone and clay soils; Kimmeridgian (high % of fossilized seashells), Portlandian (hard limestone with less clay).
Hazards in Chablis
Risk of fungal disease. Spring frost, hail storms.
Main grape varieties of Chablis
Chardonnay
Classification system of Chablis
- Petit Chablis
- Chablis
- Chablis Premier Cru
- Chablis Grand Cru
Petit Chablis
Typically higher, cooler vineyards, predominantly with Portlandian soils (hard limestone with less clay). Vineyards on flat land or on gentle slopes. Many N-facing sites.
Chablis (classification)
Large area of Kimmeridgian soil and mixed aspects. Vineyards on flat land or on gentle slopes. Many N-facing sites.
Chablis Premier Cru
40 named vineyards on S and SE facing slopes on Kimmeridgian soil. Lieux-dits within some larger premier crus. Wines made from these can be labelled under their specific site (Chablis Premier Cru Troêsmes) or under the larger climat (Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy). Slopes allow better drain and better protection from frost on the vineyards, S aspect allows better sunlight (riper fruit).
Chablis Grand Cru
Single grand cru with seven climats (including Les Clos and Vaudesir). Next to the village itself, SW aspect, on the right bank of the River Serein, Kimmeridgian soil. Greater weight and concentration. Higher quality thanks to the mixture of crumbly marl with good drainage and high clay content. 1% of the region’s total production. Slopes allow better drain and better protection from frost on the vineyards, S aspect allows better sunlight (riper fruit). Shelter from wind coming from the N due to a belt of trees between it and the adjacent Petit Chablis vineyards, so greater concentration, body and ageing ability.
Style for wines as Petit Chablis
Light intensity of green apple and lemon, high acidity, light body.
Style for wines as Chablis
Medium int of green apple and lemon, high acidity, light body.
Main training systems in Chablis
Double Guyot replacement cane pruning (if one cane fails, the other may survive frost).
Key viticulture techniques against spring frost in Chablis
Smudge pots, sprinklers (the most common) and pruning choices.
Main rootstocks in Chablis
The main rootstocks are 41B (highly tolerant of limestone soils with a high pH) and 420A (low vigour and tolerance to high pH).
Harvest for wines from Chablis
Mechanical harvest, but the grand cru vineyards are hand-picked due to the steep slopes.
Key winemaking operations for wines in Chablis
Chaptalisation is used regularly except in warm years. Fermentation in stainless steel vessels with storage in stainless steel or concrete for a few months. Possibility of malo and lees ageing. Some wines (grand crus and occasionally premier crus) may be fermented and aged in barrels in different styles: old oak (Dauvissaut or Raveneau), new oak (William Fèvre), stainless steel or concrete (Jean-Marc Brocard).
Key maturation practices in Chablis
According to the classification. Petit Chablis and Chablis are usually in stainless steel. Chablis Premier Cru can stay in oak while Chablis Grand Cru stays in oak.
Climat
Named vineyard fixed in AOC legislation.
Lieu-dit
Named piece of land in the centralised land register.
Types of businesses that operate in Chablis
The traditional distinction between négiociants and domaines is breaking down as négociants have bought land and some domaines supplement their own production with additional négociant business. 1/3 is vinified by the co-operative La Chablisienne (operates at all appellation levels).
Main grape varieties of Burgundy
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay
Main winemaking areas of Burgundy
- Chablis.
- Côte d’Or
- Côte Chalonnaise
- Mâconnaise
- Beaujolais
Main sub-regions of the Côte d’Or
- Côte de Nuits (from Dijon to Nuits-Saint-Georges)
- Côte de Beaune (from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Santenay)
Excluding Beaujolais, the number of appellations in Burgundy
84 appellations - 33 grand crus, 44 village appellations and 7 regional appellations.
Main grape varieties of Côte d’Or
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Main grape varieties of Côte Chalonnaise
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligoté
Main grape varieties of Mâconnaise
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Main black grape varieties of Burgundy
Pinot Noir, Gamay
Portlandian soil
Hard limestone with less clay, it’s found in Petit Chablis.
Kimmeridgian soil
Limestone and clay soils with a high % of fossilized seashells, it’s found in Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.
Number of Chablis Grand Crus
One, with seven climats.
Chablis producer who uses old oak for the ageing
Dauvissaut or Raveneau
Chablis producer who uses new oak for the ageing
William Fèvre
Chablis producer who uses stainless steel or concrete for the ageing
Jean-Marc Brocard
Le Syndicat de Défense de l’Appellation de Chablis
Founded by William Fèvre in 1993 with the aim of combating fraud and addressing environmental issues.
L’Union des Grands Crus de Chablis
Voluntary association to promote the quality of Chablis Grand and therefore limited to those who own grand cru sites. It has a quality charter: members must practise sustainable viticulture and harvest by hand.
The most important factors that influence the price of Chablis wines
The name of the domaine and the appellation level.
Climate of the Côte d’Or
Moderate continental, dry early autumns. Protection from rainfall due to the Morvan hills to the W. Adequate rainfall.
Hazards in the Côte d’Or
Spring frost (more frequent recently due to earlier growth, 2012 and 2015 in Volnay and Pommard). Hail throughout the growing season. Rain according to the time of fall (disrupt flowering and fruit set if early, fungal disease if long session, diluted grapes if at harvest). Drought stress in recent vintages (irrigation is not permitted). Grapevine yellows and esca.
Possible ways to combat hail in the Côte d’Or
Hail netting was not permitted in the past (too much shading and horrible for the landscape), but limited-use is permitted from June 2018. Another option is thundercloud (silver iodide to induce precipitation some distance from the vineyards).
Main training systems in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnaise
Some vines are pruned using a cordon training system, including Cordon de Royat (limits vigour and yields, high % of wood can harbour disease). Traditionally, Guyot system. Recently, some have returned to this and to Poussard-Guyot (softer cane pruning, a system that maintains the same sap route from one year to the next with pruning wounds only in the upper part of the cordon; less pruning wounds and seeks, so less incidence of Esca and other trunk diseases).
Poussard-Guyot
Softer cane pruning, a system that maintains the same sap route from one year to the next with pruning wounds only in the upper part of the cordon; less pruning wounds and seeks, so less incidence of Esca and other trunk diseases.
The most critical factors that determine style and quality in the Côte d’Or
Aspect and elevation.
How the altitude influences the quality of wines from the Côte d’Or
Mid-slope for the best sites, having well-draining shallow soils, good sunlight, frost protection, better ripening potential. Those on the top slopes have poor, this soil, and exposition to cooling winds, while vineyards at the bottom have deeper soils and are more vulnerable to the frost.
Type of soils in the Côte d’Or
A mixture of limestone and clay. The Côte de Nuits is more on limestone, while Côte de Beaune has more clay.
Type of soils in Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnaise
Soil is a mix of clay and limestone, different depth of soil above the bedrock (also due to erosion). Thinner soils at higher elevations and deeper ones at the bottom of the slopes, also poor drainage, deeper, with more clay (great fertility).
Where Aligoté is well-regarded in Burgundy
Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise.
The typical planting densities in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
8-10,000 vines per hectare, to encourage roots competition.
Agriculture techniques to reduce yields in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
Debudding and green harvesting.
Harvest for wines from the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
The timing is critical. Most is made by hand. Early harvest results in high acidity but with the risk of under ripe grapes, while later harvest can give softer wine but with the weather risks.
The maximum enrichment permitted in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
+1.5-2%
Key winemaking operations for white wines in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
Acidification or de-acidification is permitted (EU limits), possibility of chaptalisation (max enrichment is +1.5-2%), but less necessary recently. Usually direct pressing with whole bunch, clarification. Some producers apply hyperoxidation (final wine less prone to oxidation). Ambient yeasts are common (encouraging a terroir expression), cultured usually for high-volume regional wines. Fermentation for inexpensive and some mid-priced happens in stainless steel or concrete vessels, moderate temperatures (16-18°C). More expensive wines ferment in barrels at slightly higher temperature (20°C). Usually malo, neutral vessel or oak.
Key maturation practices for white wines in the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais
Ageing for inexpensive and some mid-priced in same vessels of fermentation or in older barrels. Barrels for more expensive wines, 8-12 months with the fine lees, old and new oak (little at regional, 20-25% at village level, 30-50% at premier cru, 50+% at grand cru). The standard oak cask is the 228 L Burgundy barrel (pièce), but some use larger barrels (500-600 L). Possibility of lees stirring during the ageing.
Pièce
228L Burgundy barrel
% of new oak for the ageing of white wines from the Côte d’Or, according to the classification
20-25% at village level, 30-50% at premier cru, 50+% at grand cru
Types of barrels used in the Côte d’Or
Pièce (228L Burgundy barrel), though some producers are using 500-600 L barrels for subtler oak and oxidative flavours.
The influence of Henri Jayet in Burgundy
He favoured destemmed fruit in the 1980s.
Key winemaking operations for red wines in the Côte d’Or
Possibility to use whole bunch (Pinot Noir attitude, traditionally applied until the influence of Henri Jayer in the 1980s) or destemmed. Cold soaking (few hours to days) is common. Most use ambient yeasts for fermentation, usually in small open-top vessels (pumping over and punching down for cap management). A regular cap broken is important to introduce oxygen, avoiding reduction and the production of reductive sulfur compounds and the acetic acid, also promoting the extraction colour, tannin and flavour from the skins and regulating the temperature in the must. Most producers use a combination of both methods. The length of post-fermentation is according to the desired style (2-3 weeks for more concentrated wines). Pressing using either horizontal pneumatic presses or vertical basket presses. Free run wine and press wine are kept often separately, option of blending before bottling. Malo is usually spontaneous.
Key maturation practices for red wines in the Côte d’Or
Oak barrels (228 L), 12-20 months is common for premium and super-premium wines. % of new oak according to the producer style and the region (higher for premier crus and grand crus).
Finishing operations for white wines in the Côte d’Or
Usually filtration.
Finishing operations for red wines in the Côte d’Or
Possibility of fining and lightly filtering for mid-priced, no for higher levels.
Classification system for Mâconnais
- Mâcon AOC
- Mâcon-Villages and Mâcon-plus named village
- Named village appellations
Mâcon AOC
Mainly reds, a few whites.
Mâcon-Villages and Mâcon-plus named village
Whites only.
Relevant named village appellations in Mâconnais
Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, Saint-Véran AOC and Viré-Clessé AOC.
Principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits
- Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
- Morey-Saint-Denis AOC
- Chambolle-Musigny AOC
- Vougeot AOC
- Vosne-Romanée AOC
- Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC
Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Reds only, the largest village in the Côte de Nuits. Charmes Chambertin AOC and Chambertin Clos de Bèze AOC as grand crus.
Morey-Saint-Denis AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Mainly reds. Clos de Tart AOC and Clos de la Roche AOC as grand crus.
Chambolle-Musigny AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Reds only for the village wine. Bonnes Mares and Musigny AOC as grand crus.
Vougeot AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Tiny appellation for reds and whites. Its grand cru Clos de Vougeot AOC is larger than the village appellation.
Vosne-Romanée AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Reds only. La Tâche AOC and Romanée Conti AOC as grand crus.
Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Mainly reds. No grand crus, Les Saint-Georges and Les Vaucrains as premier crus.
Principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune
- Aloxe-Corton AOC, Pernand Vergelesses AOC and Ladoix-Serrigny AOC
- Beaune AOC
- Pommard AOC
- Volnay AOC
- Meursault AOC
- Puligny- Montrachet AOC and Chassagne-Montrachet AOC
- St Aubin AOC
Aloxe-Corton AOC, Pernand Vergelesses AOC and Ladoix-Serrigny AOC
Some of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Around the hill of Corton, villages and premier crus are mainly reds while the Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC is exclusively white. Many lieux-dits for Corton Grand Cru AOC (most Pinot Noir but also Chardonnay).
Beaune AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Mainly reds, but also whites. Les Clos des Mouches and Les Grèves as premier crus.
Pommard AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Reds only. Les Rugiens and Clos des Épeneaux as premier crus.
Volnay AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Reds only. Clos des Chènes and Les Caillerets as premier crus.
Meursault AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Whites only with well-known premier crus such as Perrières and Genevrières.
Puligny- Montrachet AOC and Chassagne-Montrachet AOC
Two of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Whites only for the first while a few reds at both village and premier cru for the second. Le Montrachet AOC and Bâtard-Montrachet AOC as grand crus between them.
St Aubin AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte de Beaune. Whites only. Sur le Sentier du Clou and En Remilly as premier crus.
Types of wine produced in the Côte Chalonnaise
More reds than whites.
Number of grand crus in the Côte Chalonnaise
Zero
Number of grand crus in the Mâconnaise
Final steps to formalise a grand cru.
Where premier crus are located in the Côte Chalonnaise
Premier crus are located on the warmest, S/SE/E-facing slopes with well-drained limestone soils.
Principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise
- Bouzeron AOC
- Rully AOC
- Mercurey AOC
- Givry AOC
- Montagny AOC
Bouzeron AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise. 100% Aligoté.
Rully AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise. More whites than reds, 25% premier cru, important area for Cremant de Bourgogne.
Mercurey AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise. More reds than whites, 25% premier cru, the largest producer of the communal appellation.
Givry AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise. Reds mainly, 40% premier cru.
Montagny AOC
One of the principal appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise. Whites only, 66% premier cru.
Types of wine produced in the Mâconnaise
Mainly whites.
The traditional businesses that operated in Burgundy
Historically, much of the trade went through large négociants who would buy grapes, must or finished wine from other growers. More domaine bottling since the 1980s. There are sill some very well-know and well-regarded négociants (Albert Bichot, Joseph Drouhin, Faivelay, Louis Jadot and Bouchard Père et Fils). Some domaines also acted as négociants in the 2000s, such as Dujac (Domaine Dujac for wines from its own vineyards while Dujac Fils et Père from purchased fruit).
Types of organisations that operate in Burgundy
- growers
- domaines
- négociants
- micro-négociants
- co-operatives
Role of the growers in Burgundy
They have vineyard holdings and sell grapes or unfinished wines to négociants; several thousand and their holdings are divided in parcels in different vineyards and villages.
Role of the domaines in Burgundy
Own vineyards and make wine from them, selling it under their own label.
Role of the négociants in Burgundy
Buy grapes and/or wines, finish them and bottle them for sale under their own name
Role of the micro-négociants in Burgundy
Smaller, buy grapes of very good to top quality, make the wine and sell it under their own name.
Role of the co-operatives in Burgundy
Predominant role in Chablis, the Mâconnais, and in the Côte Chalonnaise.
The most important factors that influence the price of Burgundy wines
Name of the domaine + appellation.
Classification system in Burgundy
A classification of terroir, based on soil, aspect and microclimate.
- Regional or generic appellations (Bourgogne AOC).
- Communal or village appellations (Meursault AOC).
- Premier crus (Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens AOC) - No mention of premier cru if grapes come from more premier cru vineyards.
- Grand crus (Richebourg Grand Cru AOC) - In the Côte d’Or, the labelling term is the name of the grand cru, no name of the related village. Each grand cru is an appellation in its own right.
Possibility of additional geographical denomination:
- Regional appellation + general area (Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune AOC) or village (Bourgogne Chitry AOC).
- Village appellation + premier cru vineyard (Meursault Perrières AOC).
- Mâcon + village (Mâcon Verzé AOC).
- Grand cru + climat (Corton-Les Bressandes Grand Cru AOC).
Types of wine produced in the Côte d’Or
1% grand cru, 47% premier cru and village, 52% regional. Côte de Nuits is specialised in Pinot Noir, while Côte de Beaune is important for whites.
