Waves Flashcards
wavelength
distance between crests
wave period
time it takes to pass point
what classes waves
wave period
smallest/largest wave
capillary, tsunami
can you have deep waves in shallow water
yes
what are tide waves
shallow
what are tsunami waves
shallow
waves controlled by
wind (longer wind bigger waves), fetch (distance of wind blowing in same direction), wind velocity
fully developed sea
when wind duration/fetch is long enough, where waves wont get any bigger
as wind speed increases…
height/wavelength/period increase
significant wave height
height of highest third of all waves, used to predict danger to infrastructure
progressive
movement of energy not water
what motion does water molecule move as wave moves forward
orbital
diameter of orbit
increases with wave size, decreases with depth
wave base
depth that surface can move water
deep water orbits
circular
shallow water orbits
elliptical
deep water wave
doesnt touch bed, higher than 112.32m
intermediate wave
depth between 11.2 m and 112.32m
shallow wave
interact with bed, less than 11.2m
celerity
velocity of wave
celerity equation
wavelength/perod
where do waves begin
fetch then continue to fully developed sea or when limited by fetch/wind duration
wave interference
interaction of waves when they pass through each other, constructive/destructive
breaking waves
spilling waves (flat bottom), plunging (steep bottom), surging (very steep)
what never changes
wave period
waves in low energy environment
shallow waves
standing waves/seiches
water moves back and forth
node
no change in elevation
antinode
maximum displacement
what controls standing wave
basin geometry
resonance
increases displacement at nodes
internal waves
underwater waves
tsunami
long period, high wavelength, high speed
