Waves

Question 1

wavelength

Answer 1

distance between crests

Question 2

wave period

Answer 2

time it takes to pass point

Question 3

what classes waves

Answer 3

wave period

Question 4

smallest/largest wave

Answer 4

capillary, tsunami

Question 5

can you have deep waves in shallow water

Answer 5

yes

Question 6

what are tide waves

Answer 6

shallow

Question 7

what are tsunami waves

Answer 7

shallow

Question 8

waves controlled by

Answer 8

wind (longer wind bigger waves), fetch (distance of wind blowing in same direction), wind velocity

Question 9

fully developed sea

Answer 9

when wind duration/fetch is long enough, where waves wont get any bigger

Question 10

as wind speed increases…

Answer 10

height/wavelength/period increase

Question 11

significant wave height

Answer 11

height of highest third of all waves, used to predict danger to infrastructure

Question 12

progressive

Answer 12

movement of energy not water

Question 13

what motion does water molecule move as wave moves forward

Answer 13

orbital

Question 14

diameter of orbit

Answer 14

increases with wave size, decreases with depth

Question 15

wave base

Answer 15

depth that surface can move water

Question 16

deep water orbits

Answer 16

circular

Question 17

shallow water orbits

Answer 17

elliptical

Question 18

deep water wave

Answer 18

doesnt touch bed, higher than 112.32m

Question 19

intermediate wave

Answer 19

depth between 11.2 m and 112.32m

Question 20

shallow wave

Answer 20

interact with bed, less than 11.2m

Question 21

celerity

Answer 21

velocity of wave

Question 22

celerity equation

Answer 22

wavelength/perod

Question 23

where do waves begin

Answer 23

fetch then continue to fully developed sea or when limited by fetch/wind duration

Question 24

wave interference

Answer 24

interaction of waves when they pass through each other, constructive/destructive

Question 25

breaking waves

Answer 25

spilling waves (flat bottom), plunging (steep bottom), surging (very steep)

Question 26

what never changes

Answer 26

wave period

Question 27

waves in low energy environment

Answer 27

shallow waves

Question 28

standing waves/seiches

Answer 28

water moves back and forth

Question 29

node

Answer 29

no change in elevation

Question 30

antinode

Answer 30

maximum displacement

Question 31

what controls standing wave

Answer 31

basin geometry

Question 32

resonance

Answer 32

increases displacement at nodes

Question 33

internal waves

Answer 33

underwater waves

Question 34

tsunami

Answer 34

long period, high wavelength, high speed