The Nineteeth Century Flashcards
Developments during the industrial revolution that led to the establishment of factory-made clothing
The first half of the nineteenth century saw a number of inventions that helped in the production of better, lower-cost products. Joseph-Marie Jacquard’s invention made the weaving of complicated patterned fabrics possible by 1804; machine-made net became available in 1808; the Leavers’ lace-making machine in 1813. Fabric production evolved greatly, but most garments were still made one at a time until the mid-1800s. By 1830 Thimmonier had invented a working sewing machine and by 1846 Elias Howe had invented a lockstitch sewing machine that could dramatically increase the production of clothing. During the American Civil War, mass production started to take over. Mass production made it possible to finish garments faster. It made more clothes available to more people at lower prices than ever before, in the form of ready-made clothing.
Tailcoat
For the first half of the century the tailcoat was still popular for day- and evening wear (figures 172, 176, 177 and 183). These coats (jackets) were cut away completely at the waist in front, with long tails remaining at the back.
Smooth collar with bowtie
The cravat had by now evolved to a smooth collar with a small bowtie.
Four-in-hand
By the 1870s the bowtie was replaced by the four-in-hand (similar to the tie that is worn today).
Top hat
The top hat was worn throughout the nineteenth century
Cap
The cap is still popular for both workmen and sportsmen, and has today become part of the average adolescent’s outfit.
Sideburns
Sideburns were very popular for most of the first half of the nineteenth century (figures 176 and 177).
Dundreary whiskers
After the middle of the century they descended to the jaws to form Dundreary whiskers
Small waxed moustache
Small, waxed moustaches were also popular
Empire-styledress
All female attire seemed to have been designed for tropical climates, and yet the climate of Europe can have been no different in 1800 from what it was in 1850, when women wore ten times as many clothes.” (Laver, 1982:155). This tall, slender silhouette with its very high waistline, made from light, clinging fabric, remained popular for the first two decades of the nineteenth century (figures 168, 169, 170, 172, 173, 176 and 177 in Laver). This style is often referred to as the Empire style.
Garrick
A coat with multiple cape collars is known as a Garrick. A similar style was worn by women.
Cape collars
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Leg-of-mutton sleeves
During the 1820s leg-of-mutton sleeves (large at the top, gradually tapering to the wrist) became popular. Different variations of the leg-of-mutton sleeve were also worn
Bloomers
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Hooped dresses
After 1850 hoops were used to inflate the skirts. The hoops made the wearing of many layers of petticoats unnecessary. Unfortunately, since the hoops were rigid, the back of the dress would flip up completely when something pressed against the skirt front. These very wide skirts were also a fire hazard
