The middle ages : Europe up to the 14th century Flashcards
Bliaut
During the twelfth century the bliaut came into use for both men and women. This was an outer body tunic with a waistline seam, the first since Crete. The skirt of the bliaut consisted of two semicircles. Only the central sections of the straight edges were joined to the bodice. The unattached portion of the skirt hung free, either at the centre front and centre back or at the sides.
Cyclas
The cyclas was first worn as an overgarment to protect the armour from dust. It was slashed from the hemline upwards at the centre front and centre back in order to provide space for the wearer when riding a horse, etc Slashing material in this way is called dagging.
Heraldry
It was also necessary to distinguish friend from foe and heraldry came into use.
Hood
The child on the left in figure 49 in Laver is wearing a hood with a shoulder cape, very similar to the Roman cucullus.
Coif
At this time we also see the coif, a small white hood tied under the chin; it is very similar to a baby’s cap
Wimple
The wimple was also first worn during the twelfth century.
This is a piece of fabric draped around the throat and then drawn upward around the face and fastened on top of the head. It is still worn by some nuns.
Chain-mail
When chainmail was replaced by plate armour, something was needed to protect the body from the sharp edges of the metal plates.
Ganache
Two overgarments developed out of the cyclas, the ganache and the gardcorp. With the ganache the shoulder line was extended to create a cap-sleeved surcoat.
Barbette
The wimple was still worn, but the distinctive headdress of the thirteenth century was the barbette (chin band), pillbox hat and crespine.
Pillbox hat
The wimple was still worn, but the distinctive headdress of the thirteenth century was the barbette (chin band), pillbox hat and crespine.
Crespine
The wimple was still worn, but the distinctive headdress of the thirteenth century was the barbette (chin band), pillbox hat and crespine.
The crespine was a net that covered the hair at the side of the head.
Parti-coloured or mi-parti garments
The conservatism of the thirteenth century gradually gave way to the exotic and extravagant dress of the fourteenth century. Parti-coloured and heraldic designs were popular.
Pourpoint
An important garment that emerged during this period was the pourpoint (also called jupon or gipon in the prescribed textbook).
The pourpoint is of importance as it was the precursor of the doublet, which in turn was the precursor of the suit jacket as we know it today. The pourpoint was only worn by men.
When chainmail was replaced by plate armour, something was needed to protect the body from the sharp edges of the metal plates. The quilted pourpoint consisted of an outer layer of silk, then a layer of cotton wadding, and inside a layer of linen. It was expertly cut and fitted to the body.
Points
The pourpoint also supported the hose by means of ties or points attached to the lining.
Cotehardie
The cotehardie was worn over the pourpoint.
It often had long, narrow streamers called tippets attached to the sleeves. A belt was worn low over the hips. The cotehardie was also worn by women. It then had a wide, low neckline and long, tight sleeves reaching to the knuckles.
