The Eighteenth Century Flashcards
Eighteenth-centurymen’sjacketsandwaistcoats
During the first half of the century, men’s jackets were very full at the back with large, turned-back cuffs (figure 131). As the century progressed, the coats lost the volume in the skirt, the sleeves became narrower and the cuffs were reduced to a normal size. The two front parts of the coat were cut away (figures 142 and 154). By the end of the eighteenth century the lapels on men’s coats were wide, sometimes extremely so.
In most of the illustrations men are shown wearing a waistcoat and a coat. The coat had buttons all the way down the front but was seldom worn buttoned� The buttoned waistcoat was a little bit shorter than the coat, with a plain fabric back, often the same as the lining. The coat developed into today’s suit jacket and the waistcoat into today’s vest
Spencer
A coat variation was the spencer. This was a short, waist-length coat, of even length, with no tail at the back. The spencer was supposedly invented when the coattails of Lord Spencer were torn off in a fall from his horse.
Redingote
As an overcoat, the redingote (or greatcoat) was popular. It frequently had more than one collar and towards the end of the century it had wide lapels and was double-breasted.
Wigvariations:
full-bottomed
A variety of wig styles was worn throughout the eighteenth century. It started with a full-bottomed wig (figures 131 and 132), but it must have been so uncomfortable that ways of fastening the hair at the nape of the neck were soon devised.
the tie
the hair was caught at the back with a black tie.
the square blackbag
the hair was encased at the back in a black bag trimmed with a bow on top.
the ramillie
the hair was plaited into a braid with a bow at the top and often at the end.
the pigtail
the hair was encased in a spiral black case.
Solitaire
The bag wig could have an enormous bow at the back and a black ribbon knotted into a small bow in front. This bowtie was called a solitaire. The solitaire was worn with a stock, a plain white neckband that replaced the cravat.
Stock
The stock looked like a scarf wound around the neck
Pantaloons
The poorer class never wore breeches, so they were called sans-culottes (without breeches). Instead long, loose trousers called pantaloons were worn
Ellipse-styledress
TThe ellipse, used from 1740–1770 (figures 140 and 156)
Polonaise-styledress
The dairy maid or polonaise style, used in the late 1760s and 1770s (figures 157 and 160)
Classicaltubular-styledress
*
Robe à la française
The robe à la française had box pleats at the back neck, with the fabric hanging freely from there to the floor. These pleats were also called Watteau pleats after the artist who so beautifully painted the ladies of the time.
Robe à l’anglaise
In a robe à l’anglaise the pleats were edge-stitched and the back bodice therefore closely fitted the body.
Watteau pleats
The robe à la française had box pleats at the back neck, with the fabric hanging freely from there to the floor. These pleats were also called Watteau pleats after the artist who so beautifully painted the ladies of the time.
Echelles
The lady is Madame de Pompadour, mistress of the French king Louis XV. She was the fashion leader of the time. The row of bows down the front of her bodice was called èchelles, the French word for ladder.
Engageantes
The sleeves were fairly close-fitting with a “froth of full, delicate, multiple ruffling” called engageantes.
Calash
In order to protect these enormous hairstyles, women often wore a calash when going outside. The calash was a collapsible head covering, hinged and with ribs much like the top of a baby’s pram.
Caraco
By the late 1780s and early 1790s the bustle had reappeared. The bustle style dress was frequently worn with a caraco, a jacket cut off at hip level and finished with a frill. This style of jacket settled nicely on the expanse at the back.
CharlotteCordaycap
*
The change in dress after the French Revolution
After the French Revolution (1789–1799) but particularly after the Reign of Terror (1793–1794) and the beheading of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, dress became considerably more classical and simple. If you are not familiar with the history of the French Revolution, you might want to read something about it. It will help you understand dress styles both before and after the revolution. Figures 163 and 165 show the tubular style that continued to be popular during the beginning of the next century.
