Focus: 17th Mens neckwear Flashcards
Mens Neckwear
Ruff Wisk/Golilla Underpropper Faling Band Limp/Unstartched ruff Cravat
Wisk/ Golilla
Large collar, embodied and edged with lace.
Underpropper
a wire frame that first supported the ruff and then the wisk
Falling band
Look like ordinary collar.
Development of the cravat
Persecutor of men’s tie today. Linnen strip ending in lace, held in place by a bow at the back. End it became narrower and longer. the lace was replaced with muslin. Sometimes knotted. Bow of ribbon sometimes worn behind it.
Male ruff
The ruff held the head high in an attitude of disdain. It
was a mark of aristocratic privilege, an extreme example of tendency of men’s clothes to show that their wearers do not need to work or engage in strenuous pursuit. As the century progressed ruffs grew larger and larger until it was difficult to see how their wearers could have conveyed
food into their mouths.
Female ruffs:
An element to be noted was the “Seductive Principle”, an
attempt to exploit the wearer’s charm as a woman. Women wished to wear ruffs to show their status in society, they also wished to be attractive as women. The ruffs were open in front so as to expose the bosom, and to allow it to rise in gauze wings at the back of the head.
This showed a beautiful frame of the face.