The fifteenth century Flashcards
Bag sleeves
The sleeves of the houppelande were sometimes large and bag- like but fitting tight at the wrist.
Organ-pipe pleats
Vertical organ-pipe pleats were another characteristic of fifteenth-century fashion. See figures 67 and 69 in Laver)�
Courtepy
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Mahoitres
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Doublet
The pourpoint became the doublet. In learning unit 3 we mentioned that the doublet was the precursor of the suit jacket of today. The hose (stockings) were lengthened and joined at the top to become trousers. By the end of the fifteenth century the doublet had completely lost its function as a support for the hose. The shirt was becoming more important and visible
Patten or galoche
The patten or galoche, a wooden-soled shoe worn to protect the poulaine, can clearly be seen in the lower left-hand corner of figure 60 in Laver. Towards the end of the fifteenth century shoe fashions did a complete turnaround and the very long and sharp-pointed shoe (figures 61 and 69) became short and extremely wide
Sugarloaf hat
The chaperon was still worn, as well as a high sugarloaf hat (figure 69, Laver).
Headdress of the Doges of Venice
Note the official headdress of the Doges of Venice. This hat was derived from the Phrygian bonnet and was worn over a coif.
V-shaped neckline
During the first part of the fifteenth century necklines changed from a wide, low shape to a deep V, often edged with fur.
Stomacher
The d’ecolletage (open neck and breast area) was filled in with a stomacher
Chemise showing through dagging in sleeves
During this latter part of the century we also see examples of dagging in sleeves; slits in the sleeves with the underdress or shirt (chemise) showing through. Often the sleeve was completely separate from the dress, attached to the dress with ties, with the chemise showing as if pulled through the opening
Shaven forehead
The hair above the forehead was often shaven and the eyebrows plucked to a thin line� The rest of the hair was covered with a headdress, perhaps with a veil covering the forehead to soften the effect
Bourrelet
A bourrelet, a round, padded roll, covered with beautiful fabric and often heart-shaped, was popular in the first quarter of the fifteenth century (figure 68 in Laver).
Hennin
A high, cone-shaped hat called the hennin was also popular. The hennin often had a veil attached to it.
Butterfly hennin
The butterfly headdress – translucent lawn, gauze or veiling supported on a light frame – was also seen.
